Here is my solution for stiff, yet by light push rods
I use a .156" hard aluminum rod, drill and tap both ends and screw in a 4-40 threaded rod piece in each end.

If we are talking about short control rods here, such as aileron links from wing mounted servos, I would like to suggest looking at the H9 titanium pro-links (turnbuckles). Admittedly, they are expensive, but they work great.

I'll second that. Been using them for a while now and for precise adjustment you can't beat-em.

Roger:

Here is my solution for stiff, yet by light push rods
I use a .156" hard aluminum rod, drill and tap both ends and screw in a 4-40 threaded rod piece in each end.

Do you sell this type rod? Also do you need a lathe to drill the ends?
Thanks for your many posts that gives us some really good info.

Thanks for the vote of confidence.
Actually, I started making these for my own use as I do for anything I end up selling like the standoffs. If I like them and they work well, I offer it to someone else that might like it.

So, it is possible to drill the end without a lathe, but rather tricky and not easy. If you have even a small lathe it would be easy to do.

I haven't offered to sell these but I'm willing to make them to the length one needs as long as they tell me the lenght from tip to tip of the 4-40 inserts. I also color them as I do with the standoff's.
I haven't decided on a price yet because I don't know how long it takes to make them except for myself. and this I don't count the time.

I just ordered my DA50 from Desert Aircraft !!! they say it will ship in a week to ten days and they are starting a list of orders as of this afternoon, They anticipate this list to grow very Reapidly as demand for this engine should be huge. Good Luck I will let you know when I get Mine

In regards to soft mounting the BME 50, I spoke with Keith of BME and he said it is best to hard mount their engine or any gas engine. You guys were right! He said at running RPM (3500 to 4000) the gas engine will vibrate more and tear up the rubber mounts in no time. He gave me a work around for the Du-Bro soft mounts because I had already drilled the firebox to accept this engine mount. Cut the rubber bushing flush with the mount and cut the aluminum bushing to fit. This will change the mount from a soft to a hard mount. (See picture) He recommends using the Hanger 9 hard aluminum engine mounts and they are a lot less expensive. ($9.00 vs $32.00) Thanks for the heads up on that one.

Is this mounting strong enough or am I missing something? The aluminum standoffs are 1 1/2" long. This is needed in order to get the necessary 7 inches Great Planes calls for. It looks and I might be wrong but the engine stands off the firewall quite a bit. Was this fuselage designed correctly or is it 2 inches too short?

-

RCGuy,

You should be fine, look at mine. It's 2-1/16 inches off the firewall.

Andy

Bryan,
So the 50 is out huh? I've been waiting to get my hands on one of them. I see on DA's web site that they want $549. Is that with the standoffs and muffler or what? Let us know.

Soft mounts on any of these small singles - is a no no -
The problem is not so much the inherant out of balance of a bigger single - but-- is simply the kick of each firing and the reaction.
Th twins the same size - if they have the same powe - will also kick -as either engine fires ONCE each rev - ( the twin fires both cyls at the same time.)
The engine ignition system used on a lot of singles - has a retard which softens the blow at lower rpms but if anybody has a mount which is very light and eliminates this power pulse - I would like to see it - (I have seen the ones currently on the market and the European shock absorber ones plus others )
Bottom line - mount solidly - to a solid front end on the model -make sure the fuselage does not flex - use a stiff , balanced prop and go fly -

i AM WONDERING WHAT SERVOS ALL YOU FUTABA USERS OUT THERE ARE USING. I DO NOT WANT TO USE DIGITAL AS I DO NOT HAVE THE CASH FOR THEM. BUT WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? I DO NOT WANT TO USE HITECH SERVOS AS PEOPLE SEEM TO BE LOSING A LOT OF AIRPLANES DUE TO FAILURES OF HITECH DIGITAL SEVOS.

Close to cutting and installing the cowl. Anybody have have any pictures of the WP 300 with BME 50 and cowl installed. Looks like I'll have cut the cowl to make room for the spark plug and Bosch cap.

I finally made it to the end of this thread! I was really interested in this airplane, and now Im going to buy one. For the guys running the Moki 2.1 does it have enough power? I want to go vertical from a hover, etc. Any help would be great!

549 W/O MUFFLER AND W/O STANDOFFS A LITTLE OVER 600 FOR ALL

From what I have read the moki will be a great engine for this plane.

It will use a lot of 0% nitro fuel.

So it's the oil content that will cost you.

Maybe $10.00 a day if you fly six 10 minute flights a day.

brian

Servos?? the new JR 811 digitals - cheap - and they really work - don't let the 53 in oz torque rating fool you - these suckers really hang tight on center.
I am using them in my model same size as the 300 and the performance is excellent.

I will use some Futaba 9206's that I picked up at a great price, right before National Hobby Supply went under. 131.9 oz in at 4.8V (they say not to run them at 6V), coreless BB. I have 4 of them so I guess I'll need a few more - I have some hitec digitals that I could use as well.

That's my suggestion for Futaba. Granted they're not cheap, but they should work well.

- Scott

I am thinking of futaba 9303. I need some help on Metal gear vs nylon gear. My local Hobby shop says go with nylon they mesh better and are tighter. any thoughts ?

The metal gears are stronger then the nylons but will get sloppy much faster.

so what do you recomend, metal or nylon ? also even with a metal geared servo is there nylon gears driving the metal ones? i was told there were.

Personally, I think metal gears are over rated-Remember folks--we are talking about a 15-17 lb plane-That being said--I have them in my PWX3 (MPX Profi) I agree with Roger--Nylon will stay tighter longer.

For the people that were interested in how I cut the cowl for the bme 50. It is hard to tellfrom the pic but the fins do stick out past the cowl about a 1/3 the depth of the motor. The hole looks bigger than it really is from the angle of the pic

Thanks Smallfly, you don't know how much time you just saved me. With the red and white squares, it is like having a road map on where to exactly cut the cowling. Is your BME engine out the required 7 inches from the firebox? I think I read in a past post that your engine is only 6 1/2 inches. Was that you or someone else? Regards, Russ

smallfly Thank you very much! I always get nervous dremeling cowls and always end up doing too much. Now I know I will not mess up this work of art.

I finally got the chance to get my PW Extra out and wring it out I did. It does great harriers and waterfalls and the Taurus 3.2 has so much power that it will hover effortlessly at 1/4 throttle. I love this airplane!