I use titanium ends from Central Hobby
www.centralhobbies.com
I think the stainless would be heavier than it needs to be...

For the short rods, like on the elevator, I would use the 1.5" Titanium H9 Pro-Link Link Rods. www.chiefaircraft.com or www.horizonhobby.com

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin...s/Hangar9.html
This is what it looks like

All of this together might be lighter in the end...


I will use all of this stuff when I get my PW Extra, should be ordering it sometime this week...

Can someone please tell me the weight of the BME50? I am tryin to crunch some numbers, but I cna't seem to find the weight of this engine. Thanks peeps!!

The BME 50 weights 3.3 lbs according to BME website.

Where did you get that from? I looked on there and they only had the 44, 61, 80, and 102 listed. Or am I missing something......

Your not missing anything. BME does not show the 50. I got the weight from Chief's website where I purchased the engine. They say the BME 50 is 3.3 lbs and the muffler is 3.5 ozs. If you need more specific weights, you may call Keith at BME in Waco, TX. His voice number is 1-254-836-0835. FAX 1-254-836-0837

PS-- The plane balances and flys great with the BME 50 (22x10 Bambulla Prop) and the two rudder servos installed in the rear.

A servo to run choke is not like ran the control surfaces when you flip it off it want be used after your engine is running so there want be any problem with its operation. All other need to be 12 or more from the engine. I have not had any trouble with one there at this time. Happy flying James

COOL....thanks RCGuy1. I am using the DA50 weighing in at 2.9 lbs. Looks like I am going to have to shift things around a little so it's not TOO tail heavy!

Here is one for you engine guys in this thread;

As part of my research on which engine to go with for this plane, I called BME about the upcoming 55 extreme. I was told that the target weight is under two pounds (without muffler and ingition), and should be available sometime near the end of April 2003.

Based on the prop sizes I am seeing here for the BME 50, the 55 may only be slightly stronger (same size prop recomendations at this point, but appears to be a big advantage on the weight side.

I guess maybe I will wait to make my decision until things get more definate on the 55 since I don't plan on flying this thing until spring anyway.

Just beware, usually when a manufacture gives you a target date such as april. I usually tack on 2 months so a more realistic timeframe may be June. Look at the DA50 shipping in october, no wait Late november, Now they are saying hopefully by the end of december I will have mine and I am #50 of a backorder list of what I understand to be almost 200. I would say you are better off getting in line fo a Da50 in hopes to have one for spring. It sounds like this is still on the drawing board for BME as they could only give you a target weight that they are hoping to achieve. I t does not sound llike they even have a test model buile yet. Even if they did I would say they would need at least 3-4 months of testing alone before they could even consider production. All this taken into consideration I bet it will not be until next fall the earliest that this hits the market.

All this talk of gas engines for the GP PW300 .I have a moki 210 in mine swinging a 20x8 pro zinger.I am totally happy with mine-unlimited vertical & flight envelope.She flies awesome,pulls out of a hover with ultimate authority.I am a total moki fan myself,as much HP as most 40-44cc gassers...this plane /setup is the best aerobatic i have flown to date & i thought GP hit the jackpot with the UCANDO which i love too,one thing I plan to change tho is the cheesy tail wheel steering design..the pw300 is even 10x better..keep up the awesome work Great Planes!!


Steve

A friend of mine has a big Moki 2.10 in one of his planes. I met him the other day coming out of our local hobby shop carrying a gallon of glow fuel on each arm. If you like the oily mess and can afford the fuel-- by all means go with a Moki. Don't get the idea that I dislike glow, but I believe they have thier place. 7 out of 8 of my planes are powered with glow engines but in the .46/61 size range. Also have a OS .91 four stroke on the UPROAR pictured to the left and love it.

I decided to use two springs on the tail wheel instead of the way shown in the manual. Problem is it doesn't center after deflecting the rudder one way or the other. The wheel assembly doesn't always stay cocked in the same direction, just depends on which direction the rudder was moved. Have tried different tension springs and have the same problem. Have used similar set ups (Klett, etc.) on other planes and never had a problem. Nothing is binding. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.

vtsmx

vtsmx - tailwheel centering - when I've had this before it has been the springs pulling too much "up" compared to how much they pull "forward"....you may want to check that out.

I went with two springs on mine, and is fine. Ground steering is very sensitive (the way I like it) and I have no complaints.

The stock single-rod thing really bites.

aerobob - I just hooked the springs on the wheel "stearing bar" and the control horns. Did you do something to lessen the height?

vtsmx

Nope. Hooked the springs to the OUTER hole on the tailwheel part, and the INNER holes on the rudder control horns. Mine doesn't bind; dunno whazzup wit yurs.

Did mine the same way. Strange . . . .

vtsmx

vtsmx - My bad - had to go look...I have my springs at the OUTSIDE of the rudder control horns. Under pretty high tension, and it must be giving enough leverage to re-center because of that.

I'll put up a photo later.

Another view of the tailwheel setup (and you can see how I did the GP 4-40 Ball links on pushrods, too)....this is a dramatic improvement over the klugey pushrod thing....

Not to change the subject but didn't you guys use the backing plates for the control horns? Looks like the pictures show you used the screws. In the case of the rudder, I tru-bolted the two control horns togeter with 440 threaded rods and locking nuts. I don't have to worry about control horn failure during flight. Also used Du-Bro 440 ball links all around, so no slop in the linkage.

Set up the tail wheel as per instructions, seems to work fine for me.

been using screws in plywood with ca in the holes (as the instruction book suggests ) for years in giant scale with no failers to date and i do tumble them around, but as always, ya go with what has worked for you. ram3500

your taking an unnecessary chance putting a servo near a gasser. even if it is at idle, it is still a direct connection to your rx. all gas engine manufacturers ,of engines that i've used over the years, state in their installation instructions to give AS MUCH SEPARATION AS IS POSSIBLE to engine and rx circuits. In addition to that, with engine, ign. batt.,ign. box, large prop & spinner, and a good size muffler all up front, you usually need to move components back anyway , to prevent adding dead weight. BE SMART....BE WISE....BE SAVE....BE SUCCESSFUL

Ah! my dear watson, not if you do it right. With Fiber Optic servo extensions, you can even power the throttle servo with the ignition battery.

Loved the plane untill about 4 hrs ago at idle in the down line ( 45 deg) rolling to upright right wing separated from aircraft with spar intact what will GP say?

PS. screw the plane what about my motor?

flyn - that is HORRIBLE !!! We need more details....engine size, whether or not you 3D, all up weight, and what YOUR post-mortem has told you....From the pic, it looks like stress fracture of the outer skin caused by failure of the upper and lower spar/longerons....what did you find?

God Help Us!

Sorry about your loss..... Please give us more info....