Volt spy question
#26

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From: Upstate NY although I often wonder why...
ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner
You know what Kuobin there has been lots of good response's here but its time to go fly its really as simple as that-just go fly.
John
ORIGINAL: kuobin
Today i connect a multi-meter to the battery,and then monitor the volt meter reading when i execrise sticks ,You know what?the volt reading never go below 4.8V even RED LED might blinks,Now I am wondering if the voly-spy is too senstive?
Today i connect a multi-meter to the battery,and then monitor the volt meter reading when i execrise sticks ,You know what?the volt reading never go below 4.8V even RED LED might blinks,Now I am wondering if the voly-spy is too senstive?
You know what Kuobin there has been lots of good response's here but its time to go fly its really as simple as that-just go fly.
John
Many of them have a 4.8 volt, 5.0 volt or an A123 setting. Perhaps you have it set for 5 volts??
Tom
#27

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ORIGINAL: kuobin
4.8V even RED LED might blinks
4.8V even RED LED might blinks
You know Tom I suspect Kuobin's "4.8 even RED LED might blinks" is a far cry from your "if you have red"
If anything is going on its perhaps an issue of incomplete or undercharging so indeed, Kuobin if you are properly charging then it is indeed time to fly.
John
#28

My Feedback: (-1)
ORIGINAL: Rodney
Yes, the VW is quite sensitive, almost as good as an ocilloscope. That is why it is such a valuable trouble shooting tool, it gives you an indication of a problem that a voltmeter or loaded voltmeter will never show. You can get a momentary drop in voltage at the receiver bus that will never show up on a voltmeter, whether loaded or not, that can cause a brown out on a 2.4GHz system. Another great thing about the VW is that it is always connected making it so easy to check at the end of each flight before turning off your receiver to make sure the battery voltage is sufficient for one more flight or more. I see to many people that never take the time to check with a loaded VM before each flight due to the trouble of getting it connected and reading it. Nothing more useless than a meter that is never used.
Yes, the VW is quite sensitive, almost as good as an ocilloscope. That is why it is such a valuable trouble shooting tool, it gives you an indication of a problem that a voltmeter or loaded voltmeter will never show. You can get a momentary drop in voltage at the receiver bus that will never show up on a voltmeter, whether loaded or not, that can cause a brown out on a 2.4GHz system. Another great thing about the VW is that it is always connected making it so easy to check at the end of each flight before turning off your receiver to make sure the battery voltage is sufficient for one more flight or more. I see to many people that never take the time to check with a loaded VM before each flight due to the trouble of getting it connected and reading it. Nothing more useless than a meter that is never used.
ORIGINAL: kuobin
Today i connect a multi-meter to the battery,and then monitor the volt meter reading when i execrise sticks ,You know what?the volt reading never go below 4.8V even RED LED might blinks,Now I am wondering if the voly-spy is too senstive?
Today i connect a multi-meter to the battery,and then monitor the volt meter reading when i execrise sticks ,You know what?the volt reading never go below 4.8V even RED LED might blinks,Now I am wondering if the voly-spy is too senstive?
Truth is, I used my meter yesterday, then it hit me, I didn't have a battery problem, I forgot to change my TX from PPM to PCM!! Makes a big difference in how a plane reacts.
#29
Senior Member
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ORIGINAL: tomfiorentino
OK...and this means there is a problem. If it does this on a full charge, the battery is having trouble meeting the voltage demands of the servos. (ie. either binding, extensions too long, bad switch, too many servos for one battery etc. etc.)
Tom
ORIGINAL: freakingfast
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Every status light type I've used blinks for the briefest of time the red light if I quickly circulate both sticks at the same time.
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Every status light type I've used blinks for the briefest of time the red light if I quickly circulate both sticks at the same time.
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Tom
#30

My Feedback: (1)
Well interesting seems to be two factions here consisting of the Volt/watch devotees and the loaded voltmeter adherants.
Oh man I know I shouldn't but times they are a changing and there is yet even a third option these days and this will certainly get the hate mail going.
Well been using the Hitec 2.4 system for a few years now and I use nothing but this system, I think just over fifty receivers.
Now every time I go flying which is pretty much every day it seems I don,t need those blinky things (never much cared for them and never bought one either, but I did survive) and my trusty old loaded volt meters (they pretty much ended up on a dusty self). Don,t think I,ve even gotten a meter out at the field in the last year and then it was for someone else.
What I do is simply turn my airplane and transmitter on and like magic the voltage for not only the transmitter is displayed in big numbers but the voltage in the airplane also. Hmm it can be in the air or on the ground heck even in the truck does not seem to matter. Guess what, this is a real time actual loaded voltage check, heck can even grab a control surface and stall it if I want and watch it go down.
I have pretty much given up carrying a loaded voltmeter and heck that feels almost as good as the revelation that 2.4 provided when it offered freedom from the tyranny of the 'Frequency board'.
John
Oh man I know I shouldn't but times they are a changing and there is yet even a third option these days and this will certainly get the hate mail going.
Well been using the Hitec 2.4 system for a few years now and I use nothing but this system, I think just over fifty receivers.
Now every time I go flying which is pretty much every day it seems I don,t need those blinky things (never much cared for them and never bought one either, but I did survive) and my trusty old loaded volt meters (they pretty much ended up on a dusty self). Don,t think I,ve even gotten a meter out at the field in the last year and then it was for someone else.
What I do is simply turn my airplane and transmitter on and like magic the voltage for not only the transmitter is displayed in big numbers but the voltage in the airplane also. Hmm it can be in the air or on the ground heck even in the truck does not seem to matter. Guess what, this is a real time actual loaded voltage check, heck can even grab a control surface and stall it if I want and watch it go down.
I have pretty much given up carrying a loaded voltmeter and heck that feels almost as good as the revelation that 2.4 provided when it offered freedom from the tyranny of the 'Frequency board'.
John
#31
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Status lights are different from maker to maker, some may be sensitive(like my MPI) some may have a buffer. You just have to find out what's normal for yours, barring any problems. Even basic digital servos draw a spike of current when they are suddenly changing direction at speed, add to that four or more servos............
#33

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From: Upstate NY although I often wonder why...
ORIGINAL: freakingfast
Status lights are different from maker to maker, some may be sensitive(like my MPI) some may have a buffer. You just have to find out what's normal for yours, barring any problems. Even basic digital servos draw a spike of current when they are suddenly changing direction at speed, add to that four or more servos............
Status lights are different from maker to maker, some may be sensitive(like my MPI) some may have a buffer. You just have to find out what's normal for yours, barring any problems. Even basic digital servos draw a spike of current when they are suddenly changing direction at speed, add to that four or more servos............
So flicks of red don't bother you but they drive me to re-charge....
I probably should have mentioned that I am talking from an A123 perspective and I don't know if that changes your thoughts any. As you probably know, when those batteries go they go; fast! One flick of red and that is early warning for me.
I'm not sure I would recommend something different, but the OP was talking NiMh and it is on a basic set-up so maybe I should have clarified my position.
You stop at solid red by the way?
Tom
#34
ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner
Thats because the currant draw increases when you are wiggling those sticks and goes back to idle when you stop wiggling.
As CGR suggested to find out which control may be binding a bit just wiggle them one at a time.
Now to answer your question as to whether or not to "go back to Nicd" you need to tell us what is the battery capacity of your battery, not just the voltage.
These days I only use five cell batterys (6 volt) and for an ordinary forty sized sport plane using a 2.4 system I prefer to use a minimum of about 1600 mah.
John
ORIGINAL: kuobin
,but the blinking happens only when i execresing,when i release sticks ,it backs to green.
,but the blinking happens only when i execresing,when i release sticks ,it backs to green.
Thats because the currant draw increases when you are wiggling those sticks and goes back to idle when you stop wiggling.
As CGR suggested to find out which control may be binding a bit just wiggle them one at a time.
Now to answer your question as to whether or not to "go back to Nicd" you need to tell us what is the battery capacity of your battery, not just the voltage.
These days I only use five cell batterys (6 volt) and for an ordinary forty sized sport plane using a 2.4 system I prefer to use a minimum of about 1600 mah.
John
#35

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From: Upstate NY although I often wonder why...
ORIGINAL: rgburrill
5 cell, 1600mah? Just how did I survive with a 600mah, 4.8V NiCd? Let alone fly 4 times per day without a recharge?
ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner
Thats because the currant draw increases when you are wiggling those sticks and goes back to idle when you stop wiggling.
As CGR suggested to find out which control may be binding a bit just wiggle them one at a time.
Now to answer your question as to whether or not to ''go back to Nicd'' you need to tell us what is the battery capacity of your battery, not just the voltage.
These days I only use five cell batterys (6 volt) and for an ordinary forty sized sport plane using a 2.4 system I prefer to use a minimum of about 1600 mah.
John
ORIGINAL: kuobin
,but the blinking happens only when i execresing,when i release sticks ,it backs to green.
,but the blinking happens only when i execresing,when i release sticks ,it backs to green.
Thats because the currant draw increases when you are wiggling those sticks and goes back to idle when you stop wiggling.
As CGR suggested to find out which control may be binding a bit just wiggle them one at a time.
Now to answer your question as to whether or not to ''go back to Nicd'' you need to tell us what is the battery capacity of your battery, not just the voltage.
These days I only use five cell batterys (6 volt) and for an ordinary forty sized sport plane using a 2.4 system I prefer to use a minimum of about 1600 mah.
John
Many guys have elected to pursue the performance gains of digitals and/or have exploited the longer run times and performance gains of higher capacity and voltage packs.
But you can still survive on the 4.8 NiCd 600mah if you wanted to...no question. There are tons of ways to skin this cat!
Tom
#36
Senior Member
Do not take my comments wrong. I do not condemn the use of a loaded voltmeter, they can be and are very useful. Each type of meter has its advantages/dissadvantages, it just pays to know what they are and abide by them. sometimes, it takes more than one type of instrument to do a complete analysis of a problem.
#37

My Feedback: (1)
[/quote]
5 cell, 1600mah? Just how did I survive with a 600mah, 4.8V NiCd? Let alone fly 4 times per day without a recharge?
[/quote]
Well RG I too have been surviving the march of technology since my first successful RC flight In which among others required two 45volt burgess dry cells and of course later the 500mah NiCd when they provided their magic and I never quit. Although I did provide the whatever recomended power supply for the systems as they developed.
Now what you did not seem to note is the fact that I posted for a forty sized sport plane using (2.4 not talking about 72 here) a five cell pack of around 1600mah is my preferance and remains so as well as what I suggest to all my student.
Now back to the original poster, still there Kuoban? Once agine it is my beleif that if you are sufficiently chargeing your 2000 pack. That is at around 200 ma for 14 to 16 hours the night before then and your loaded meter indicates something approaching five volts then you need to stop stressing about the twinkie gadgets and start flying.
John
#38

My Feedback: (1)
twinkie gadgets

Yep... as technology marches on, so must we!!!
Just a few years ago, a digital servo was very expensive and consumed a lot of power and made buzzing noises. Now-a-days, seems like just about everything they sell is called digital. Go figure.. again, technology moves on!!!
CGr.
#39

My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: CGRetired
I love it!!! 
Yep... as technology marches on, so must we!!!
Just a few years ago, a digital servo was very expensive and consumed a lot of power and made a buzzing noise.
Now-a-days, seems like just about everything they sell is called digital. Go figure.. again, technology moves on!!!
CGr.
John said:
twinkie gadgets
twinkie gadgets

Yep... as technology marches on, so must we!!!
Just a few years ago, a digital servo was very expensive and consumed a lot of power and made a buzzing noise.
Now-a-days, seems like just about everything they sell is called digital. Go figure.. again, technology moves on!!!
CGr.
#40

My Feedback: (1)
One of the recent advancements in batteries is the new LiFePO4 packs. You can get a two sell pack that has 3.3 volts per pack (nominal) and a 2100mah pack weighs in at quite a bit less than an equal capacity NiCd or NiMh pack and are safer to use than the LiPo's. They are more expensive, but have defininte advantages... and some disadvantages.
One major disadvantage is that the discharge curve is very flat.. good because the voltage is constant. But at the point of exhaustion, the curve takes a very fast and deliberate decay, and this happens very quickly. So, one has to be very careful with them.
A voltwatch or Volt Spy probably would not be very good because of this "plot knee" where the exhaustion point is reached very quickly. The charge level with such devices may show just fine, even with a loaded voltmeter, but could decay in flight to below minimum during a typical 10 minute flight. Not good. So, use with caution.
I was not aware of this really sharp discharge curve knee (if you don't know what I am talking about, look at the plot below. Note how quickly the voltage drops from usable to the uh-oh point. This is not an actual voltage plot as measured, but just a plot that shows that the usable vs. un-usable capacity can quickly catch up with you with LiFePO4 packs. They are very good, but users must be aware of this type of discharge curve. The first plot is an estimate of what a discharge curve would look like. The second one is an actual discharge curve. Note that they are pretty similar, and that the point where the batter is usable to where it is not usable is very close.
CGr.
One major disadvantage is that the discharge curve is very flat.. good because the voltage is constant. But at the point of exhaustion, the curve takes a very fast and deliberate decay, and this happens very quickly. So, one has to be very careful with them.
A voltwatch or Volt Spy probably would not be very good because of this "plot knee" where the exhaustion point is reached very quickly. The charge level with such devices may show just fine, even with a loaded voltmeter, but could decay in flight to below minimum during a typical 10 minute flight. Not good. So, use with caution.
I was not aware of this really sharp discharge curve knee (if you don't know what I am talking about, look at the plot below. Note how quickly the voltage drops from usable to the uh-oh point. This is not an actual voltage plot as measured, but just a plot that shows that the usable vs. un-usable capacity can quickly catch up with you with LiFePO4 packs. They are very good, but users must be aware of this type of discharge curve. The first plot is an estimate of what a discharge curve would look like. The second one is an actual discharge curve. Note that they are pretty similar, and that the point where the batter is usable to where it is not usable is very close.
CGr.
#41
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
ORIGINAL: tomfiorentino
As you probably know, when those batteries go they go; fast!
As you probably know, when those batteries go they go; fast!
ORIGINAL: tomfiorentino
You stop at solid red by the way?
You stop at solid red by the way?



