I know I am getting ahead of myself here, but now is as good a time to ask.

Many builders of the Kadet LT-40 recommend gluing a piece of triangle stock to both sides of the fin where it mounts the stabilizer (see photo 1). I don't want the aggravation of trying to cover around those supports when the time comes. Also I don't like the looks of them. I like the basic square connection of fin to stabilizer.

MY QUESTION IS: Instead of the tri-stock supporting the fin is it possible for me to drill 3/16" holes into the first upright 5/16" square balsa piece of the fin and the 5/16" X 1/2" balsa trailing edge of the fin and insert 1/2 of a 1" piece of 3/16" dowel in these holes and the other end of the dowels going into 3/16" holes in the fuselage/stabilizer? (see photo 2)

I would much prefer to have the dowel supports over the triangle stock supports as the dowels would be buried into the parts and hidden from view and I can have the added support and the basic square connection of fin to stabilizer that I like.

IMO you would get a lot more strength done per photo #1. This is what they make Trim Irons for. Your choice in the end. You will need to be VERY accurate in your drilling leaving 1/32 on each side only.

I have not done either to my LT-40. I have been meaning to go back and add tristock, but have not gotten around to it. Anyhow, I fly the heck out of it and have not had a problem, but I would agree with Bruce, go with the tristock if you are going to strengthen the area.

Patrick

I actually broke my vertical stab off, and re-attached it by doing both of the options you have outlined above. Instead of 3/16 dowels I used tooth picks, and put 3 of them in. Worked really well. And since mine was white, I picked up some fuel proof paint and just painted them white instead of trying to cover the tri-stock.

" . . . And since mine was white, I picked up some fuel proof paint . . . "

1]With the top part of my fuselage and stabilizer and fin being red would it work with me to add the tri-stock and just paint it red like you painted yours white?
2]How does that finish blend with the rest of your covering job?
3]Would there be a real big difference in appearance with the painted tri-stock and the Coverite fabric that I will be using for the rest of that area?
4]I really would just prefer to paint it to match the covering if I really should use the tri-stock. Do they have fuelproof paint that matches Coverite fabric?
5]What size tri-stock is preferrable to use? Should I go small with perhaps 1/4" or should it be more along the 1/2" size?

Please HELP Especially all you other LT-40 owners, let me know how you handled the fin/stabilizer mounting.

Thank you to all who help me decide!!!

UPDATE: I think I am just going to use the tri-stock for the support and just paint it red to blend with the covering. Now that I believe I made up my mind: A]What paint blends well with Coverite fabric? B]What size tri-stock, 1/4" or 1/2"?


ANOTHER EDIT [:'(] - - - I thought I read somewhere that a certain spot in the fuselage should also be reinforced with tri-stock. Am I dreaming this [sm=bananahead.gif] or did I really read it. If I am not going crazy right about now and it was brought up at some point somewhere, where is this spot in the fuselage that should be reinforced and what are the details?

Didn’t do a heck of a lot today – today was my lazy day . Here is my small amount of progress:

Modified the aileron servo tray. Didn’t like the flat ply piece they supplied that was to be pressed flat on either side of the wing servo hole cut into the sheeting. With the dihedral angle it would have been hard to press it flat on both sides – and then all that glue that would be necessary to fill in the gaps left.

I modified the supplied ply servo tray with a second layer of ply where the screws mount into and balsa at the outer front and back edges. On the long edges of the tray I glued a piece of 1/8� tri-stock balsa cut from the thin edge of a scrap aileron so that the tray would blend in with the wing angle caused by the dihedral and lay flat against the servo opening cut out in the wing sheeting. Then I cut a small gap on the left side of the servo tray for the servo wire to exit.

Photos 1 & 2: FB-F (fuselage bottom front) glued into place with medium CA. Then reglued with Titebond II.
Photo 3: Reglued all the fuselage joints with Titebond II.
Photos 4 & 5: Closeup of modified aileron servo tray.
Photos 6 & 7: Modified servo tray placed on wing.
Photos 8 & 9: Modified servo tray on wing with servo.
Photos 10, 11 & 12: Explanation of servo tray modification.

Don't run the wire that way. Once you glue down the mount, how would you ever change/remove the servo? Servos occasionally need to be removed. Just make a litte natch along side the servo body that the wire can snake out of. I am assuming that you planned to glue down the mount plate.

I forget what color you need, will any of these work OK?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...nt&FVPROFIL=++

There may be others available from other dealers.

Flying wires will secure the vertical stabilizer nicely.

Tigerdude,
Why do you have to paint tri-stock that you used to reenforce the vertical stabilizer? Just cover over it with covering.


Ken

Ken, when you cover the tri-stock with covering, and then glue it onto the fin/stabilizer won't the seams be too unsightly? There would be a seam all the way around the tri-stock. Would that be acceptable in neatness? I will more than happily use tri-stock and cover it with Coverite if someone can show me how to do it without leaving huge unsightly seams around the perimeter of the tri-stock. If it only leaves tiny seams hardly noticeable then by-all-means I will attempt it.

Jim, I do not know if flying wires are acceptable for trainers. And I would not know how to put them on.

Bruce, this one would work fine and it was the only one that was in can. Did they have red? I need Blue, Red & White. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXB351&P=7

If I need to replace or remove the servo it would unscrew like normal and it slides right out - the opening for the servo wire is more than wide enough to slide in and out when needed. I did not like the way the plans had the wire snaking out through the top next to the servo - I felt the wire was too tight and crimped up underneath the servo tray to my satisfaction (I like to keep the wire loose), and I figured with the wire loose like that it was too close to the aileron control rods and might have gotten tangled during flight. And I could not get the tray to lay flat on both sides of the wing sheeting the way they had it.

I am looking forward to seeing how Ken does it. Are you doing it the way they show or are you doing it different? I don't see how that piece can be kept flat on both sides of the wing sheeting without leaving huge gaps.

There doesn't appear to be much selection in the paint department. If you can't use what you see I suggest that you glue the tri-stock in place and then cover the plane. It really should not be too hard. Do the seams (including the tristock area) and then do the flat areas.

Flying wires are not hard either, just something else to learn.

OK on the servo, as long as you can get the lead in/out OK.

Tigerdude,
First of all. When I build a plane I completely assemble the plane BEFORE I cover it, so covering over the tri-stock is not a problem at all. But in your case, what is wrong with applying a small piece of covering over the tri-stock after you attach it? Nobody will even notice it unless they are looking for it.

As for the servo tray. Once again, I think that you are "over engineering" the kit. There are places in some kits that I will change the way things are done in the instructions because in my experience they way they do it isn't the best way it can be done. But in the case of the servo tray I look at the thousands and thousands of pilots that have snaked out the servo wire the same way you are trying to avoid and have never had a problem with it. I've had more planes than I can count with the servo wire like that and I've never had a problem with it at all. I'm going to be ready to do that portion of the kit this evening and so far from what I can see I don't see any reason to do it any differently than the instructions call for.

Ken

This diagram is very similar to how you would cover with the tri-stock in place. As I said above, I prefer to cover AFTER the plane has been completely assembled. I cover the sections just like in the diagram. I like doing it that way because the gap is completely sealed and there is no way anything can come in contact with the balsa in the joint. If the gap isn't sealed then exhaust and oil can seep into the joint and weaken the wood.

Ken

Ken, although the plans call for the stabilizer and fin to be covered before attaching to the fuselage, you are going to assemble the whole thing first and then cover it? That is how you recommend doing it? I am not even going to attempt covering mine until I see you do it. . Although I have attempted twice to assemble the whole frame of the plane before covering (with the PT-40 and the Air Scout) with unsatisfactory results to my liking. Should I attempt it again with the LT-40. I kinda wanna see if it is easier covering before attaching them but I wanna follow your lead also and have a better chance of doing it good for a change.

EDIT - I am probably looking at this as a bigger problem than it is, but I am sorry - that is how my mind works [sm=bananahead.gif] I know it is probably easier to just attach the flying wires and not even worry about tri-stock but I don't really believe they would look good on a trainer (and I don't know how to do them).

I am just going to keep following Ken's thread and I will finish this by Spring.

DECISION MADE: I am following all your advice and I am using tri-stock [1/4"] and covering it with Coverite. The painting would prob have looked worse than the seams would ever look and prob would not have blended well. Now one more question ( I really hope you don't mind): Do you glue the stock all the way the whole length of the fin or end it where the fin meets the fuselage and just glue it to the stabilizer? You guys have helped me make up my troubled mind and I thank you so much for it.

Spring? More like Christmas I would suspect, even if you work slow. That is if we can get Ken back to work. [:@] There are times when covering some parts of an assemble plane seem tough but is is just a matter of taking your time. If it gets to a point where you are getting frustrated, go watch TV for a while and relax, unless Oprah is on. [:'(] That could be enough to make you stomp your plane. Use a trim iron in the tight areas, a standard iron for the edges and the gun to do the shrinking. Once shrunk, I go back and make sure it is stuck down good to the wood. Lay it out straight and snug to start and let the gun take out the wrinkles. It's just another skill to learn. 10-20 years and you will get it down fairly well.

OH NO, another expensive purchase (the trim iron) [:@]. Just kidding , will it really help that much more if I get it, and will it really improve the appearance (even with me doing it)?

If it greatly improves the ease of doing it and the appearance of the completed work, I will find the $25-$30 to get one - If my LHS even carries one, which if he doesn't then I also have to come up with the shipping charges to get one [:'(]

I just answered my own question: Yes it is worth getting. There were plenty of tight spaces I wish I had one for - I am going out as soon as I can to get one.

This is a very expensive hobby - always in need of something - or always in WANT of something else, even after you think you have gotten everything

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXB365&P=ML variable heat

or

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHZ28&P=7 2 heat settings

or similar.

I have the Coverite model but that doesn't mean the TopFlite one is bad.

Will it improve the appearance of your model? Who knows. It should if you spend a little time with it. It gets into the tight areas a lot easier that the big iron, like on the tri-stock. It is like any other tool, it can be used to make something or to destroy something or any point in-between.

I like to put things on my Tower "Wish List" on their site. When I get to a point when I NEED to order something I decide what things I WANT to add to the order and get them shipped then. Saves some on shipping that way. Also helps me to not forget things that I want to get

Bruce,
Watching Oprah makes you want to stomp on an airplane???? You already know where I'm going with this one....!!

Tigerdude,
There are those out there that prefer to cover the parts and then assemble the plane. There is nothing wrong with doing it that way. I just prefer to do it the the way I do it, which is assemble it first and then cover it. And here is why I do it that way. When I'm building an airplane and I balance the plane there is nothing I hate worse than to cut into my covering job to have to add weight to the plane to balance it. So what I do is to finish the plane completely (including final sanding). This means that all control surfaces, radio installed, motor installed, etc.... Basically it should be a complete airplane minus the covering. At this point I will do the main balancing. I will laterally balance (side to side) the plane and add any weight to the wingtips if needed. I then balance the plane front to rear, I will try first to move the receiver and batter to adjust the balance is possible and then add weight if needed. After the plane is balanced I will then cover the plane and recheck the balance. If adjustment is needed (I've only ever had one plane that needed it) I will move the battery to bring the plane back in balance.

As I said above I hate to cut into covering to adjust the balance. That's why I do it this way. It works for me.

Ken

It would make me stomp a plane but I refuse to watch Oprah so my planes are safe.

Unless you can't find any good aircraft grade plywood at the hardware store, right??

Ken

I'm trying to be nice, but RIGHT.

You guys are too much

Leaving for the night with no progress on my plane [] at all. Did not do a thing on it today, maybe tomorrow. I still have the wing on the Air Scout to cover (I will use that as my practice run on covering wings).

I did the same design for the Skylark 56 Mark II also, and although I am sure that didn't need it either - that servo tray is glued in place and it really looks and works good.

I am the 1st to admit I am too much of a perfectionist and it has hurt me before (not model building but elsewhere) and it will probably hurt me here too in the long run. I gotta stop it and not expect things to come out perfect with my models or anywhere else I expect it to. I want mine to come out as gorgeous as you guy's planes are, but I am expecting too much cause that ain't gonna happen. I'll be lucky if I have'em coming out good - but I still gotta act like a perfectionist even where it is not necessary to (I REALLY SHOULD TRY TO CHANGE THAT)

Good night for now - Hoping to see more of Ken's build tomorrow when I get back, and more of cwrr5's Air Scout build.

~ Steve ~

I know you are, but I ain't gonna let you!!!!! [>:]

Ken

Some of mine aren't all that pretty either. Depends on how much time I'm willing to spend too. I've got some real dogs even but they fly great.
So don't feel bad and beat yourself up. They're just toys, not Ferrari's

Went to LHS last night and picked up my new Trim Seal Tool and some other hardware.

Got a stick of 1/2" tri-stock for reinforcing the fin to the stabilizer. Also got a Charge Receptacle to attach the battery charge wire to the outside of the fuselage, 4-40 X 1 1/4" socket head screws for the engine mount, a pkg of servo screws, and a pkg of E/Z links.

Going to Home Depot or WalMart later to pick up some Elmer's wood filler and try that out. If it's good for Ken to use it's gotta be good stuff.