That looks AWESOME!!!

Tigerdude,
Just a quick note to let you know that I've got the wings joined and I'm typing up the posts now. I should have it posted later on this evening. I wanted you to know since you have been waiting on me to finish up the wings.

Ken

Hey Tigerdude..

Here 's a shot of a canadian scheme that I liked alot and did recently.... I am sure you could change the leafs for stars, and add some blue.... the bottom profile shot though really gets noticed at the field on a flyby...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/...ls&memid=22810

the top has red fire 'bleeding' leafs....

Canuck

That is a very beautiful T-Craft Canuck. The attached airplane (I don't remember whose it belong to) but this beauty is what inspired me to do mine in red and white. I added the blue as a darker color so I can have a different colored wing bottom.

That's a good looking airplane! I have a decathalon that looks something very similar to that. Well, right now, on the bench, it doesn't look very good at all, but hopefully when I'm done, it'll look as good as new again!

You won't be able to "wick" epoxy. You absolutely need to get the joiner loose. I know it is trying to crack the rib so try this. Take a metal straight edge or even plywood and put it next to the rib. Hold it there in such a manner that it supports the rib and prevents its flexing/movement while you are pulling out the brace. A very definite last resort would be to use a very sharp blade and try to cut a few thousandths off the rib so the brace can move. Remember the most important part is gluing the brace to the spars. If you do accidentally remove too much from the rib you can add a small fillet piece for strength. Try without cutting first though

Got it out bruce, very difficult and very tedious (learn from it so I won't do things like this again [sm=bananahead.gif]).
Ken joined his and I will be joining mine today following his examples.

Here is yesterday's work while waiting to hear from Ken.

Both die-cut ply FS-R (fuselage side rear) pieces pinned in place on building board [one left, one right]. Die-cut ply FS-F (fuselage side front) pieces glued with Titebond II to FS-R pieces and all pinned down flat.

Center section trailing edges measured, torque rod holes cut away at bottom and brass bearing of torque rods glued into the grooves with Slo-Zap CA. The only thing I did different from the plans so far is I cut away the servo openings in the bottom sheeting before the joining step as I figured it would be easier on me to cut them before joining the panels instead of after the joining (which it truly was).

Laying out the die-cut FD (fuselage doubler) in place on top of each fuselage side to check for alignment.

Brushing Titebond II onto a fuselage doubler (FD).

Fuselage doublers (FD) glued in place. A whole mess of pins to hold it all down overnight to dry completely.

Step 89 in the instruction manual says to drill the 5/16� holes into the fuselage sides for the dowels but I have been saved from this step as the holes have been pre-drilled for me.

Another spot I am thinking of modifying is the way the hatch is kept on. Instead of holding it down with the screw I am thinking of using a nylon hatch hold-on clip on the inside of the compartment and hatch.

It works well for other trainers I have seen so it should work on the LT-40.
Here is what I would like to use instead of the screw --------> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDMM0&P=0

Photos 1 & 2: FS-R & FS-F side fuselage pieces glued together.
Photos 3 & 4: Torque rods glued into grooves of center section trailing edges of wing panels.
Photos 5 & 6: Checking for alignment of FD fuselage doublers.
Photo 7: Applying glue to FD.
Photos 8 & 9: FD fuselage doublers glued and heavily pinned in place.
Photo 10: Cut away the servo openings in the wing panel bottom sheeting before joining.

the screw would just be too easy right?

Too heavy?

Bruce - What's too heavy????

Balsa Master - I am not looking for EASY, I am looking for looks. And I find the inside holdon clip to be much more convenient and better in looks. But that's just my opinion!!!

I was just funning you, implying that you were changing attachment methods because you thought the screw was too heavy.

Obviously that is not true because your plastic clip method uses 2-4 screws per device. I've used them in the past. Just need to line up carefully.

Bruce, my boy - not at all the reason for changing - I am just getting a little bit too picky now and I just prefer the nylon clip version over screwing it on through the top. Because it is actually two screws that support the clip http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDMM0&P=0 it is actually gonna be a wee-bit heavier compared to only one screw through the top
I happened to have found a few of the clips laying around and decided to put them to use.

I have a question referring to my color design I posted earlier - I am keeping it because I love the look - but I have to know if the way to do it is correct. I will post a 3-way graph later displaying how I believe the order of covering sequence should be in reference to how the different color seams should match up. I am working on the graphics now on Microsoft Paint and will post soon.

After checking and rechecking the alignment, all parts (MADB braces, spars and W1 ribs) were coated with 30-minute epoxy, slide in place and clamped together to dry.

After a couple hours I will unclamp the whole shebang and reglue all the points that need it and do some filling in of gaps if necessary.

Posted is a pic of the dried fuselage halves ready to be assembled.

Here is the post I promised. Please let me know if the covering sequences are correct? Thank you in advance.

A couple of simple "fast guidelines" for you, in order(#1 and #2 interchangeable) :
1. Cover from rear to front
2. Cover from bottom to top
3. Use as few pieces as possible
4. Light colors first, darker colors over

Avoid adding paint when you can - there's only a couple of places where it's really needed (like fuel tank compt. and engine bay) for fuelproofing. Don't paint stuff that you won't be able to see when it's assembled, it just adds unneeded weight.

In answer to your question in the third picture, no, it really doesn't matter. Just keep the seams even and straight so they're less noticeable.

Looks like a nice color scheme - good luck with it. [sm=thumbup.gif]

cwrr5 - - - If I do as you say in #2 and cover the bottom of fuselage (blue) first and then the top of fuselage (red) second and then the sides of the fuselage (white) third - won't the blue and red show through underneath the white? I am using Coverite pre-painted fabric as the covering.

In #2 above you are saying cover the bottom and top first as the plans say but then in # 4 you say light colors first. Also the plans always say to overlap each piece about 1/8" but if I do that then the red top of fuselage and blue bottom of fuselage will overlap the white sides and disfigure my color design. See ATTACHMENT 1.

Those are the areas the instruction booklet tells me to paint (SEE ATTACHMENT 2), also the dowels. I figured to add the rear of the fuselage around the pushrod exit cause it sounds easier than covering.

PHOTO 1: Beginning of the fuselage alignment. Firewall and all formers (F2, F3, F4, F5 & F6) in place.
PHOTOS 2 & 3: FT-R (fuselage top rear) aligned in place above formers F3, F4, F5 and ending above F6. Rudder pushrod exit hole on the left side as instructed.
PHOTO 4: FB-R (fuselage bottom rear) aligned in place starting behind landing gear block and above formers F3, F4, F5 & F6 ending at rear of fuselage. FB-F (fuselage bottom front) aligned in place starting in front of landing gear block and above former F2 ending above firewall.
PHOTO 5: Former F7 aligned in place in front of former F3 and 1/8" below fuselage top sheeting (FT-R).
PHOTO 6: Tank floor aligned in place between firewall and former F2.
PHOTOS 7 & 8: Tail piece F8 in place between the fuselage sides at tail end behind former F6.
PHOTOS 9, 10 & 11: Various angles of completely aligned (and unglued) fuselage.

Because I am using 30-minute epoxy to install the firewall [Although plans call for thin CA, I use nothing but epoxy for these high-stress areas], parts FB-F (fuselage bottom front) and the tank floor have been removed until the firewall dries overnight.

PHOTOS 12, 13 & 14: Firewall (F1) and 3/8" balsa triangle stock reinforcements epoxied in place
PHOTOS 15 & 16: Wing braces (joiners) dry and ready for sheeting.
PHOTOS 17 & 18: Both WS-T2 and WS-T1 balsa wing sheeting glued in place.

Ending tonight's work here with the fuselage aligned and unglued, firewall epoxied and wing sheeting drying. Want to check and recheck all the alignments of the fuselage before gluing.

As far as the covering sequence is concerned. Your method and sequence will work OK.

cwrr5's basic rules are like most other rules - guidelines for which individual conditions require deviation.

IAW - Rules are meant to be broken. Just stick to his guidelines when you can.

Today's work:

Photos 1, 2 & 3: Tank floor and F2 fuselage former clamped and glued in place with medium CA.
Photos 4 & 5: Bottom view of tank floor and F2 fuselage former glued in place. Added scrap balsa to help support the bottom sides of the tank floor as I did not feel it had enough support (gave too much when you pressed into it - did not think it would have supported a full tank without the added supports). Removed the fuselage bottom sheeting FBF to better reach all the points of tank floor and former F2.
Photos 6 & 7: Closeup of former F2 glued in place.

Photos 8, 9 & 10: Sides of formers F3 & F4 glued in place with medium CA.
Photo 11: Closeup of former F3 glued in place.
Photo 12: Closeup of formers F3 & F4 glued in place.
Photos 13 & 14: Sides of formers F5 & F6 glued in place with medium CA.
Photos 15 & 16: Rear view of fuselage. Nothing after F6 is glued in yet.

NOTE TO ALL WONDERING: The gaps you see on the tops and/or bottoms of the formers are caused by the clamps while the sides of the formers dry. After I remove the clamps I will glue the tops and bottoms of all the formers. I wanted the clamping pressure of more than what the rubberbands provided and I made sure no glue dripped along the tops or bottoms of the formers. I am then going to reglue all the joints with Titebond II.

Photos 1 & 2: Tops and bottoms of formers F3, F4, F5 & F6 glued in place with medium CA.
Photo 3: Former F7 glued in place with medium CA.
Photos 4 & 5: All sides of fuselage structure (fuselage side rear [FS-R] right and left, fuselage top rear [FT-R] & fuselage bottom rear [FB-R]) from former F3 through former F6 glued with medium CA. TAIL SECTIONS AFTER FORMER F6 HAVE NOT YET BEEN GLUED IN YET.
Photos 6 & 7: The rest of FB-R ahead of former F3 glued in with medium CA.
Photo 8: Ending tonight with all sides of the fuselage clamped and drying for the night.

NOTE: I removed the rubber bands prior to gluing and replaced with the clamps as I hate it when the CA glues the rubber bands to the fuselage. Melted and glued rubber bands are not easy to sand.

Later, if need be, I will reglue the joints with Titebond II.

Photo 9: OOPS - - - accidentally CAed a clamp to the fuselage. No prob to fill in later, doesn't affect the strength of the fuselage in any way.

Good progress. Yep, don't glue the clamps to the plane. Too heavy!

Also very difficult to cover

...and they add a whole LOT of drag. [sm=bananahead.gif]

(don't ask how I know )


As far as the covering "guidelines", that's just something to keep in mind when you plan a covering job, not necessarily "rules" per say. There's other sneaky ways to accomplish the layering so that it doesn't show through - but nothing that's easy or quick. Stick to your plan - it's a good one.
You are correct about the painted areas, paint/fuelproof where the instruction book tells you to. I'll just point out that covering(monokote at least) doesn't stick to epoxy or most paints without a little "help". If you cover first, you can scuff the areas where the fuelproofing will overlap with the covering(with a green scrubby pad or very fine sandpaper), then paint and/or epoxy will stick to the covering where it overlaps, as well as seal the edges.

Just a couple of tidbits to think over, everyone has thier own favorite methods - not really sure there's much difference anyway.

Not only that but doesn't go with my color scheme and doesn't balance correctly unless I glue another clamp to the other side of the fuselage

That is why I HATE USING CA GLUES. But seeing as though the fuselage can only be glued after assembly and aligning I needed and it instructed to use a glue that wicks into the wood. If I only used Titebond II it would not have wicked into the parts and would have been weaker. I have just recently reglued all the joints with Titebond II for added strength. Will post that progress later.