tuwood

I like the latest scheme, the tail looks great.
I'm in Atlanta on business until Wednesday but I hope to get my fuse covered & the plane done by the weekend. we're supposed to have a 55 degree saturday in Omaha & i'd love to take her out...

Buzzingb, I made my squares at 3 inches but I haven't flown it yet so I don't know if that's too small to see. I think there's always a compromise between what looks cool on the ground & what looks functional in the air.
I also went with the OS .46 AX & S3004's all the way around. I'm hoping for a fun flying sport plane that will do some decent aerobatics. I'm sure my vertical will be limited but hopefully it will be more fun than my nexstar.

richx1

So I'm going to put in Sullivan Golden Rods for the control rods instead of the stock ones... something tells me that flying off a dirt field like I do will play havok on the stock rods.


- Should I just use a Golden Rod for throttle or use the stock wire cable?

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

The Sullivan flexible pushrods won't be any more durable than the kit issue rods. They MIGHT be a tad less susceptible to expansion/contraction with temperature changes (and commensurate changes in rudder and elevator trim), but then again, perhaps not.

Flexible pushrods are a two-edged sword. Their advantages sometimes out-weigh their disadvantages, but solid wire is a sure bet and bullet proof when done correctly. DuBro sells solid pushrod kits that will fit in the SE kit-supplied outer tubes.

If you prefer the nylon/whatever rods, I would go with the DuBro Lazer rods. I'm told they are the least likely to expand contract with temperatrure changes. Solid wire is the best bet, but requires that you know how to make a good solder joint for the clevis on one end.

As for throttle linkages, the kit-supplied braided cable is good; but must be supported to prevent bowing. Again, you need to be able to solder to use this cable. The flexible pushrods will work here too; but again, the expansion/contraction issue remains. This does not seem to bother some folks, but always annoyed the heck out of me.

As an aside, the inner pushrods of the Sullivan and DuBro variety are ribbed longitudinally, which reduces sliding friction as the inner tube moves within the outer tube. So, either one of those would be more desirable than the kit-supplied inner tubes. You would need to use the corresponding outer tube as well, since I believe the kit-supplied outer tubes are not quite large enough in inner diameter to accept the Sullivan or Dubro inner tube.

The Dubro solid wire pushrod fits within the kit-supplied outer tube quite nicely. That is what I used on all three of my earlier SEs; and what I will use on this new one.

Do yourself a BIG favor and don't use the kit-supplied tail wheel wire. Buy the Dubro 60-size bracket/unit, and during fuselage construction fabricate a piece of five-ply aircraft (NOT lite-ply) plywood in the rear of the fuselgae bottom to screw this bracket to. I've got a picture showing this neat, easily-replaceable installation. I'll have to find it; watch for a follow-on post.

.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Here it is; a picture really is worth a thousand words...

richx1

Already purchased a sullivan tailwheel assembly. Already started tracing the reinforcement replacement to cut and install...

richx1

Installed plywood support that is about twice as large as the supplies support. Note: I DID NOT use lite-ply to make the new support. Currently glueing the bottom of the fuselage in place.

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

Out of curiosity, what size Sullivan tailwheel did you get? I used the one for 2-6 lb planes, but it seems like it may be too light. The small wire seems to have a lot of lateral flex when the tail sits on it. I haven't weighed the plane yet, but I think the rated size estimates are a little optimistic on the upper end.

tuwood

I bought the 5-12 lb. one. It seems to be about the same wire thickness as the stock one.

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

Yeah, the 2-6 lb has 1/16" wire, while the 5-12 lb unit is 5/32". I think I'm going to end up changing it.
Thanks.

richx1

I mulled it over with the Pro at the LHS. We chose to use the 5-12lb version... and from what you say it might have been the right decision.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

You definitely want the heavier-gauge wire.

FWIW, I have found the DuBro unit to be more sturdy and durable than the Sullivan. The big problem with the DuBro is, to get it smooth, you must solder a provided washer on the wire to act as a stop/support bearing surface where the wire goes into the plastic part. If you'll look closely at the picture of mine, you can see this washer partially obscured by the rubber band holding the antenna taut.

If you don't do this, one of two things (or both) will occur:

1. The rudder hinges will absorb all the loads and stresses of the tail wheel, steering, etc.

2. The wire will naturally slide up until the curve contacts the plastic, causing a bind.

The soldered washer relieves the load on the wire and puts it all on the plastic part, as intended.

I have used the Sullivan unit, and found it to be rather flimsy. Also, the bushing which traps the wire within the plastic part got sloppy in short order.

YMMV...

richx1

Thanks for the info Steve. I already have the Sullivan tailwheel but if it should have issues in the future I'll put thought towards your recommendations with the DuBro and soldered washer.

richx1

Control Top and bottom rear fuse in, along with control rods. installing bottom fuse, tank area.

Also have my nasty vat of dye hard at work

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

I found the SSE canopy to tint very nicely. I used 2 parts black + 1 part navy blue for about 60-90 min at 135 degrees and it came out exactly the way I wanted it.

richx1

Well.... tinted the canopy... but not very effective. I started at 150 degrees and it was still at 125 after 45 minutes.... but I hardly had any tint... so I left it in for more time, and more time... and then some more time... and then finally the next day when I got home from work and about 21 hours had passed... this was the final result. I think my canopy is that infamous material that doesn't accept dye.... [:@]

richx1

Okay... I've had my first Woops! event... however it seems to have led me to another and more larger WOOPS! event... I slipped with a tool near the fuse and cracked out a piece of the top fuse rear sheet... no big deal as I just need to repair it and glue it back in and a touch of filler and good to go.

BUT

this lead me to start scrutinizing the fuse... I think I might have a twist [sm=eek.gif]. I put the fuse on it's own and it looked like the firewall wasn't straight. a right angle next to it confirmed it. So I started a regimen of right angle checks and documented them. I guess this is where I wonder if this issue might be soved in sanding or am I SOL? Anyone and eveyone toss in their 2 cents, please!

Pic 1: First look.
Pic 2: Level on the back.
Pic 3: Top front view.
Pic 4: Weighted the sides at the front with right angle to get perpendicular to flat surface.
Pic 5: Right angles at the rear when the front was weighted. Initial damage viewable also.
Pic 6: Weight removed at front.
Pic 7: Right angles at the rear when weight removed from front. Initial damage viewable also.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Rich,

I do not use the stock rods. They are nylon and will change with heat and humidity. I did this once on a 4*40 and was constant;y changing trims before takeoff when the plane sat in the sun for a little while. The Golden rods will not do this

I also am not a fan of steel cable on the throttle. I feel you get better positive throttle control with something a little stiffer. I usually use Goldenrod for this also. I'm sure others will come in a say that it will work and it does and makes it nice for going around bends and stuff but on this plane you will have a pretty straight shot at the throttle.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I've used both braided cable and straight music wire for throttle cable. While the music wire gives you better control, it won't go around a corner like the braided cable. If I remember correctly this kit comes with the braided cable, so if I were you I would leave it like it is.

Now on to the ugly part. From the pictures is sure does look like there is a pretty good twist in the fuselage. From where the fuse is right now there's not really much that you can to do straighten it out (at least that I know of). The plane is going to fly, you may just have some weird trim settings to get it flying straight. I know this is going to sound a bit cold, and that's not what I intend with the comment, but it might be chocked up as a learning experience. Maybe some of the more experienced builders will have a fix for the fuse, but I'm coming up a bit short on advice here. I've been lucky so far and haven't had a fuse that was twisted very badly. If you're interested you can buy a fuselage kit from Sig for $46.50, [link]http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/ProductsV4.html?L+Sig+gyub6941+_Ddp_5fSearch1_02F_ 2dAccessRepRC76_01Search_02Index_01[/link] .

Sorry I can't be more help

Ken

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

It looks to me that the firewall may be installed higher on the one side than the other. Could that be enough to cause this twist. You can just see it in the first pic

richx1

I see what you're saying. it does feel like most of the twist is in the front end. maybe I should try to debond it and re-assemble it along with the servo tray also... might make the difference.

richx1

Well... I surgically removed the firewall and the twist is much further back. I'm going to have to remove the firewall, the next wall, the landing gear mount and hatch mount, the bottom sheeting and the servo tray... in doing this I fear I'll mess up the rest of the fuse because of the order that it is built in. I guess I can try to start this process and see where it takes me... althogh something tells me I'll be ordering a replacement fuselage... [sm=crying.gif][sm=frown.gif][sm=rolleyes.gif]

tuwood

Going a little off topic, but seeing the crooked fuse made me think of a couple "imperfections" on my SSE build & I have a question for the more experienced builders.

I used CA for almost the entire plane with 2 exceptions.
1. When I glued the W1 end on the first wing I used Sig wood glue becuase I wanted to be precise. I put a strait edge on it & weighted it down & let it dry overnight. In the morning it was all jacked up. & somehow the piece slid around while it dried (not a lot, but noticable). I was able to sand the problems out & use some filler but I CA'd the other side & pushed it with my fingers as it dried & it came out absolutely perfect.

2. Per the instructions I used wood glue when glueing the fuse doubler in & pinned it & weighted it as best as I could & yet again there were several small gaps & I wasn't real happy with the way it turned out. It didn't slide around because of the pins but I couldn't weight the entire piece becuase it was so broad.
On the second side I chose to do the same & tried to find more weights & used twice as many pins & it did turn out a little better. I didn't use CA becuase I think it would have dried too fast & been a little tricky.

I know that what I describe above can easily be chalked up to newbie trying to build a kit, but I really didn't like using the Wood glue because it was more of a challenge to keep the pieces straight while they dried.

Richx1, I hope you can get the fuse straightened out & good luck!

richx1

Well... I don't think it's going to work. I've check the twist from fron to end and the amount that the stab is rotated is enough that the frame will be hard to fly, let alone do the things I wanted to do with it. THUS... my LHS could prolly order the replacement fuselage kit from Sig for me at a reasonable price... they give me a smokin price on the kit when I got it... so hopefully I'll get the replacement and back on the building trail once I have it.

Learning is learning. BAH!

flybug

I think I read some where in the forums to add salt and vinegar ( don't know if you did)...Ahh yeah in the Tips forum http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3292832/tm.htm [8D]

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

I'm not sure what to say about the canopy. Apparently there may be differences in the plastic used as mine did in fact tint up pretty dark with just the powdered RIT dye (you did use RIT and not another brand, right?) and hot water.

As far as the fuse goes, you definitely have a twist there. You could probably live with it if you make some adjustments to the tail to insure that the horizontal stab is perfectly parallel to the wing and the vertical stab is perpendicular to the stab. It might look a little twisted, but should be in good enough alignment to fly OK.

If it were me, I would probably pick up some replacement wood and, using the old punch-out pieces and the plans, cut a new fuse myself. $40+ seems like a lot of money when you can usually get an entire kit for $70.

Good luck and keep us posted.