Hi Gang,
I received another lemon RTF from TH today.
SECOND AND LAST BY FROM THEM!!
I was going to send it back but decided to go ahead and fix the things up.
1.I repaired the wing
2.I installed the servo in the wing they right way and glued it in as it was not glued.
3.I repaired the hole in the stab fin.
4.Now i'm making adjustments to the controls.
Heres where I ran into a problem.
I had good rudder throw to one side and very little to the right.
I adjusted the clevis as far as I can.
to get the rudder centered I had to remove the servo arm and place it back appx 20* off.
The rudder is working but I can't get enough throw.
Do I have to shop for a shorter rod?
Can I use one of the round servo disk that has all the holes?
And last question.
Will this harm the servo?
Appreciate any help,tips,suggestions,etc
Thanks

To get equal throws, you must set up the control so that the servo arm is perpendicular to the pushrod when the control is centered. As far as the control is not binding then it won't harm the servo, but if you can try to adjust the linkage to get the servo closer to perpendicular then you would be better off performance-wise. One thought would be to pull the servo out and install it facing the other direction - maybe this would allow you to better adjust the linkage.

I agree with Falcons and I must say, the suggestion to turn the servo around is an outstanding insight... it may very well have been your problem in the first place.

On the other details, yes, you can use circular servo outputs without harming servos or anything as long as they don't hit the clevis and bind; yes the output needs to be perpendicular to its direction of travel if you're to have equal throws; but no, I doubt that you'll notice the difference in throws until your flying is pretty precise and repeatable, unless the offeset is extrememe (20 degrees isn't good, but it's really not bad either).

Since you have adjusted the clevises a lot, when you get it set up, make sure that no clevis is just hanging on the pushrod by a couple of threads... it needs to have a good hold on the threads.

.
Hi Al,
That was not the problem.
The problem was that the rod was appx an inch to long.
Turning the servo around would place the clevis a good 1.5 inches past the horn where the clevis connects.
What I did was clip the rod since I had a lot of threads left to screw on the clevis.
All is fine now.
Thanks for the input

.
I have it all setup now and have good equal throws.
Sometimes the bargains at TH aren't bargains at all.
WOW!!!
I put a lot into this RTF plane.
Wing is all fixed up and I just need to do some minor adjusting on the clevis on one side and it's ready to go.
Thanks for writing

Well, I'm glad to hear it's coming together , even if it's happening after a lot more trouble than expected.

I build all most all of my planes from scratch and I still spend a lot of my time doing landing gear and linkages and finishing stuff... but in my situation, it's expected.

Wow you have had really bad luck most people have nothing but good things to say about the AvisStar

BTW I wouldn't glue the airleron servo into the wing use small wood screws and a couple of pieces of lite ply glued to tthe wing remember to remove the covering to get a good wood to wood glue joint.

.
Hi Crashman.
No I didn't glue in the servo.
The servo was mounted and mounted backward in it's small wooden mount that goes between the wings.
It's the mount that was not glued.
The Avistar is not the problem.
It's the folkes who pride themself on quality work and push out very poor workmanship.
I was going to return it but decided repacking,waiting for them and getting a refund ,etc I decided to redo most of the plane.
I'm still working on it.
I have a problem with the nose wheel.
Turns nice both ways but when the linkage is hooked up it's binding to the right and limits the rudder throw so for now it's not connected to the servo.
I'm putting a picture of it here later.
20 minutes from the box to flying
But looking real good now

I just bought the avistar ARF a couple of weeks ago and I, too, had the same problem. The flat part of the wheel gear, where the linkage hooks up, is off to one side, so when you hook it up, the wheel is turned one way. You have to hook up the wheel, straight, then hook up the rudder. I haven't done this yet and just adjust trim at take off, then readjust when I'm in the air, so the rudder is at neutral. Kind of a pain, but I think it is a manufacturing flaw with the front wheel rod.

.Hi orangeman ,
They all have that problem and it takes time but play with it and you can get it straight.
My problem on this one is that the wheel is binding with right rudder.
The shaft on the nose wheel feels like it's binding so i'l put the dremel tool to it.
The last adjustment is the linkage at the servo to the wheel.
Make sure al the slide switches on the TX are centered and readjust with the TX on.
BTW,
I always bend the rod so it makes the wheel want to run straight.
Sort of a camber adjustment.
GL with the plane & thanks for the post

Bending the rod takes quite an effort. Do you put it in a vice, heat it up, or something else? You can't do it with just a couple pairs of pliers. If a vice is used, I'll have to take it to my workshop (not for plane building), I don't have the necessary tools to do it at my house(where I build my planes). Thanks for the tip. I haven't built too many planes, I didn't know all the wheel rods are like that.

.
Hi OM,
Yeah,
Put it ina vice because that rod is strong.
Notice the wheels on a shopping care have the side plates come down at an angle?
Keeps the wheel going straight.
Also if the rod is to long it helps to lower the nose but you need a vice.
GL

An item for curiosity here... I've had one plane that intensionally did this... i.e. had the wheel cocked to one side (and possibly others unintensionally)...

the rudder was set up right of the steering wheel, so if the plane left the ground going straight, it would climb going straight without the pilot having to kick in rudder at that moment.

Al,
The rod for the nose wheel has a flat spot for the set screw.
When the rudder is straight and the wheel is NOT then you make the adjustment where the rod from the wheel goes to the servo.
Loosen that set screw and turn the wheel until it's straight as well as the rudder.
Snug it up and turn on the TX & RX and they should be in the straight ahead mode

Gotchya, thanks.

What I meant to point out, though, is that I did have a plane (not an AVISTAR) that was set up that way on purpose to make the takeoffs easier on new student pilots... Just wondered if anybody else had done it that way, or if the off-centeredness on the Avistar would even be in the right direction if somebody wanted to do it that way.