Test fit an aileron servo now. Make sure rib cutout is big enough for body of servo to fit. Easier to trim ribs now before sheeting is in place. Most likely fine but............

Yes, already did that with the servo tray temporarily installed. Fit perfectly. Thank you. Just gotta figure out where the servo wire is going to come out from.

WING SHEETING – BOTTOM FIRST:
I like to do this a bit differently than what the manual says. I like to cut out the servo openings BEFORE gluing the sheeting in place, compared to what they recommend, which is sheet first then cut the opening.

So here is my progress in pics.
The aileron servo tray is temporarily placed (not glued) so that I can place and glue the sheeting easier (so now I know ahead that the servo tray will fit perfect.

Last photo shows the servo tray removed, leaving behind a perfectly square hole that I know the tray fits into.

Hey,

Thanks for posting up progress of your build-up, as I am very interested in getting started into building rc planes, however I have no idea how much work or what is involved and this is teaching me lots about the design and work involved...so thanks heaps! By the way, stupid question but what is epoxy? And earlier there were comments about wood glue turning yellow when it dries, can I ask, who cares? Isn't the plane getting like sheeting over the top anyway in various colours?

Anyway cheers for keeping the build up in great detail, it's teaching me heaps. Can I ask what sort of tools are used and how much are the tools, plane kits and that sort of stuff. I am looking at getting a trainer, and I would impress myself a lot more if I built one myself. Building one would also give me more time to save up for the radio gear...

Cheers,
Kendall

Kendall,
You might also want to check out the LT-40 build thread that I did about a year ago. I did the thread with the specific purpose of helping new builders get a start into building. I wanted to show them that building wasn't has hard as many seem to think it is.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3439708/tm.htm]Pay It Forward build thread!! LT-40 build.[/link]

Hope this helps

Ken

Thanks, that should also be helpful,

but still what is epoxy and CA????

Thank you for your kind words kendall. I highly recommend checking out RCKen's LT-40 build:
CLICK HERE TO SEE IT - - - - > [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3439708/tm.htm]Pay It Forward build thread!! LT-40 build.[/link]

HIS THREAD IS MUCH MUCH MORE INFORMATIVE THAN THIS ONE (although I am thrilled you like mine here). If you like this one you will love his. Do yourself a favor if you really wanna learn building and check out his LT-40 build.

epoxy: Comes in different time variations and is used for high stress areas such as firewall, joining wing halves, formers, landing gear plates and so on. Mix the two parts together to activate the glue. Is fuelproof and very strong.



CA glue: Comes in thin, medium and thick. Used for a large part of the build . . .


My personal favorite is wood glue: Used for the main construction of the airplane, except in the high-stress areas that epoxy is used on as explained above.

Epoxy comes in several varieties or actually set times. The fastest being 5 minute. This gives you about 2 minutes to mix/stir thoroughly and a couple mero to get it where you want it. After that it has begun to set and becomes unworkable. It can also be purchased easily with cure/set times up to 30 minutes. The faster setting variety ends up being slightly weaker than the 30 min version.
Epoxy is used in areas requiring high strength and can also be used to fuel proof a surface.

As mentioned above CA also basicly comes in 3 main versions plus some specialty types we won't get into here. Designed for fast setting joints it isn't really IMO as strong as a good wood glue like Tite Bond II. CA's can also generate some nasty and unhealthy vapors which many have found hazardous so use with lots of fresh air. CA'd joints are difficult to sand also.

If not over-applied there will be little glue visable to turn colors.

Aileron servo tray permanently installed with epoxy. Had to enlarge the opening so that the servo wire can come out, there was no space for the wire to squeeze out of so I had to carefully enlarge the opening. Then I reinforced the inside sheeting near the servo opening with scrap 1/16" sheeting as instructed. Then I added a piece of hardwood sheet at both ends of the servo opening to accept the servo screws better.

Tomorrow its off to do the top sheeting. And maybe by then I will find my Slot Machine and start doing the hinging.

If I can't find it I will have to set up the engine mounts which have not been drilled yet for my engine.

About time I clean my work table AGAIN so I can work better. And clean up the surrounding area and maybe I will find the Slot Machine.

Thanks guys,
Yeah I've had a bit of a look at Ken's build up and it's really good too. Hats off to both of you for helping out people by giving them information and helping them out!!!

*Claps*

Cheers

Hi guys,

Hats off to both RCKen and Tigerdude426 both you guys have done a great job on these build threads haven't yet seen any detailed threads involveing covering, hope you plan on includeing them in this one. I've been following you on the build with the intent of doing one of my own I'm a newbie at rc flight just got hooked when my grandson got his cessna 182 parkflyer for christmas. I didn't realize that this hobby was so big, yea I know what you're thinking " where is this guy from, man he is really out there in the sticks hugh" well I guess your right but just remember a country boy can survive you know!!

I think I'm over the wow sensation of this new hobby and have decided on taking everyone's advice and start off slow with a trainer build not the P51mustang or the B17 or B24 some of my first choices but they are comming for sure I will be seeking advice along the way so please help when you can. I would like to poast a thread on the build and will be needing help there as well we just got internet axcess piped in through the trees back in December 2006 ha, ha, I may need some computer help as well??????????

Thanks and keep up the good thread,
Papaoneone

Tigerdude- I just read your entire thread your build is going very well. I just wanted to offer up an idea for you since you have yet to cover your model. Look in the attached picture at the blue/silver plane. That is my tower trainer with retracts installed (wheels currently retracted). I also split the aileron on the wing and installed dedicated flaps. The funny thing is when I take it to the field it gets allot of attention..
Just an idea--- Happy Building...

NIce going Tigerdude426, keep it up

UP-TO-DATE . . .

I have the top sheeting done on the wing, all the control surfaces are shaped and hinged (temporarily, not glued in) and the sanding and filling will start now [:'(][:'(][:'(]

I was thinking maybe covering the stabilizer BEFORE attaching to the fuselage instead of attaching first as they suggest. Is this possible as the stabilizer slides through a slot instead of just resting on top of a stabilizer base? The fin will be covered first and then installed as it just slides independantly into a top slot.

I will post again soon after the sanding and filling is done. Unless I am told to attach the stabilizer first BEFORE covering as suggested in the plans.
In that case I will post photos of the attached control surfaces.

Oh, and I still have the motor mounts to drill for my engine. I will post pics of that when done.

I will also post pics of the hinged control surfaces later today. Gotta go to work now [:@][:'(]

Til later

You should be able to cover the stab first if desired. remember to slide it into place and carefully mark it where you will want the covering to stop for gluing. Also rember that you will still have to cover the fillet/joint between the fuselage and the stab. This is usually done with a narrow strip of covering ironed into that corner first and THEN the fuse and stab covering ironed in place over it. It CAN be done the other way though.

Well, here I am again, with a little time off. With all the house repairs, inspections, refinancing AND WORK, I can finally post my updated pics:

1) Wing top sheeting.

2 & 3) Hinging the wing trailing edges.

4 & 5) Test fitting the hinges.

Sorry about the trash-can, guess I gotta clean my hobby table and area, but this is (after all) my hobby room. I know, no excuse, clean up my room

1) Hinging the aileron.

2) Left aileron temporarily attached.

3) Right aileron attached.

4 & 5) Ailerons attached temporarily. Leading edges NOT shaped yet.

In that case I will attach the fin and stab first before covering.

Thank you.

1 & 2) Centerline marked on the stabilizer trailing edge.

3) Hinging the stabilizer. This Slot Machine is remarkable. So much easier than doing with a exacto-knife, and straight every time. Wish I had gotten it at my first kit build.

4) Transferring hinge marks to the elevator.

5) Marking the centerline of the elevator leading edge.

6 & 7) Hinging the elevator.

8) Temporarily attached elevator (leading edge not shaped yet).

1) Hinging the rudder.

2) Rudder temporarily attached. (Leading edge not shaped yet).

1) Elevator and rudder sanded to 'V' shape at leading edges and temporarily attached to check for fit.

2 & 3) Underside of wing with ailerons sanded to 'V' shape at leading edges and temporarily attached to check for fit.

4 & 5) Topside of wing with ailerons shaped and temporarily attached.

Til later

Coming along well.

Great progress, and that Pitts fuselage is looking good as well

Started up again after a short break to take care of other projects, but here I am at this point:

1) Wing dowels temporarily installed.
2) Wing set in place and rubber-banded on for the next step.
3) Checking the stabilizer/wing alignment. Looks good to me.
4 & 5) Manuals (as does most kit manuals) tell you to use a string to measure the alignment of the stabilizer but I do NOT like to do it that way as I find that way to not be accurate as string stretches. I find my adjustable laser tool to be extremely accurate - the head moves left-to-right for angled measurements which is great for measuring the stab tips. The base of the laser tool is marked off in measured 5 degree increments ranging from 0 degree (center) to 90 degrees both left and right (see photo 12)
6) Checking the right angle.
7) Checking the left angle, making sure it is the same as the right measure. PERFECT.
8 - 11) When the stab was perfectly aligned I tack-glued it in place with medium CA. Then went all over the joints top and bottom and inside the fin slot with plenty of 30-minute epoxy, being careful not to glue the fin slots in place yet. The stains you see on the edges of the joints is rubbing alcohol to wipe off the excess epoxy.
12) My laser tool, extremely accurate. I wouldn't measure these alignments without it. Better than the stretchy string and easier to handle than a measuring-tape.