I have done everything that I know to make this nemesis go straight. It pulls very hard to the left once speed in increased. seems to really jump to the left once 2nd gear is reached. How to adjust.

I am in the same boat with my Genesis. What I have done so far, and it has helped a little but it certainly has not cured the problem is replace the factory grease all three diffs with silicone. I went with 10K in the front, locked center, and 30 K in the rear. I am going to redo it and put the 30K in the front and 10K in the rear just because I go real wide in a turn when I am under power. The 2 other things I found when I rebuilt my truck was that my servo saver was set loose from the factory and the 2 screws that thread into the GS019 steering posts (see step 60 in Genesis manual) were completely loose and showed no signs of ever having thread locker on them. I set my servo saver to 5.25 mm and I used thread locker on the 4 by 12 screws.

All of that did help a noticeable amount but I still get a bit of torque steer. I could try tightening the servo saver more only to risk ruining the servo. I think my next step is a high torque steering servo.

Most of this is thanks to ThermalRD. I asked him the same question and these are pretty much the same things he told me to try.

were is and how do you crank down the servo saver.

Same boat here to, sometimes the thing likes to chase it's tail around I am hoping to get this settled one way or another..... with all of us working together to resolve the issue we gotta be able to come up with something. I personally am trying the basics first, but will do whatever it takes. [sm=punching.gif]

The servo saver has a knurled collar to adjust the spring tension, mine was pretty tight out of the box, but I think one of those titanium gear 300+oz\in torque servo's might be on my list of things to get. Although it won't really help torque steer.

so this is the screw knob that is located under the bottom blue aluminum frame. And you screw this in tighter.

Yes that is it. When I set mine I measure from the bottom of the plate up to the bottom of the black knurled nut. Factory spec for a Genesis is 6.0 mm. I am not sure if it's different on a Nemesis. Turning the nut up (towards the top of the truck) will tighten the servo saver. Be careful not to go to tight or you'll ruin your servo.

This is crap. How do you when its to much! If the car wont go straight then how can it be to much. Why would cen sell a truck that you cant even steer, everybody says to upgrade to a bigger servo, why doesn't cen upgrade servo. So I guess that you just keep cranking until servo goes bad and then you upgrade to the 300oz servo like cen should have installed.

try tightening it a little, and see how that goes... if its not enough, then tighten a little bit more - just use a little discretion

well nemesis still will not steer staight. Have servo saver "cranked down". This sucks. Ya it has a 5hp motor but I cant even hit 2nd gear without it turning hard right, and still no fix. worst steering truck I've ever seen. I cant believe that all the .46 trucks steer like this. There has got to be a way to fix this. Could thgis be from the center dif not being locked and putting all the tire grab on the front. Has anybody loced there center diff.



need help

Is there a servo adjustment on the controller? Sounds like there is a bent part or something, you may want to try and align the car, you may also have one tire too loose, or too tight.

Tiny

I have my center diff locked and a 333 oz/in Hitec servo, etc, etc and I still torque steer like mad. I'm currently trying to find some camber and toe settings that may help. My local track is an indoor track and the width of the straights is only about 5 feet. I can not give it full throttle down the straight or I jump the pipe or hit the wall. Meanwhile everyone and their brother is lapping me. I honestly don't know what else to try short of detuning the motor to make less power. It's gotten real bad since I've added the Sniper tires. I also have a lot more wheelies with these tires.

There is no bent part. Truck is new, and all parts are tight.

This might be a stupid question, but are you sure that your tow and camber are set up correctly. When I got my gensis out of the box and ran it for the first time it did the same thing. I looked at the wheels and I could see that the tow was off. I aligned everything, and it was fine from there. Check the amount of play in your wheels. You may have to shim them to get rid of the play.
Good luck..

Remember guys this is a huge truck and at the speeds it hits it can wonder because of the tire size.
If you suspension is setup soft it will make the truck wonder at speed also. Try stiffing up the back some to see if it helps.
You can add a swaybar also to keep things in check.
Other than that hang on it's one heck of a ride when this beast gets on the pipe...

You would have to drive this truck to understand. It do4es not drift it pulls a almost 90 degree turn about 20-40 feet from start. A drift would be gradual, I haven't even been able to hit 2nd gear yet.

William,

I noticed on your race setup sheets that you do list a 2.0 mm sway bar. Is there any way you could post pics of this set up or give us an idea on how you mounted them? Did you custom fab the sway bar itself?

i just had a question on the truck not steering straight. does the truck on takeoff do the rear wheels sink down and the front lift off the ground with one wheel off the ground higher than the other? if so then you need to adjust the angle that the wheels sit(/ \, or \ /) while the front of truck is off the ground. i have a truck simmilar and the truck would tork roll to the left, after about a week of adjustments to the front end i finally got it to go straight. the truck still turns a little to the right just not as bad and it is steerable.

I gotta agree with the toe-in and camber gauges. The slightest adjusment to any of the rods can have funky effects on steering and tire wear.

Best thing to is spend $20 and pick up a set of toe-in and camber gauges. They are VERY handy. Depending on the vehicle, it seems a few degrees of toe in the rear and toe-out up front help along with a little negative camber all around (different for front and rear) - but each vehicle is different.

Well, I very carefully set up my toe and camber (all to 0). It seemed to help a lot. I was able to go full throttle down the back stretch last night without incident (aside from the crazy driver). My turn in wasn't that great but I can work with that.

For me, I say this was the biggest contributing factor in getting mine to steer straight. I am going to run on an asphalt street tonight (where I would see the most torque steer) and see if my adjustments helped there as well.

I had the same problem with my stock settings (and I'm sure the rally tires didn't help). But once I dialed in a few degrees of toe-in in the back, toe-out up front, and some negative camber all around, it was much more stable on asphault. Of course, funky tire wear seems to be a nice side affect.

How do you adjust the camber on these things?

Alot of the the Torque steer is what is often referred to "diff unloading" this is caused by A) the center diff unloading B) the rear diff unloading or C) both in sequence. You see in situation "C" if the Rear diff is unloading and sending all the torque to the Center diff then the center will unload to the front which will cause the torque steer problem. As JPKII had stated in his post the only thing to do is experiment with different fluid weights in your rear and center diffs to keep them from unloading onto the front, a center diff lock will only highlight the matter if the rear is unloading first. You can adjust the cambers and the toe but this will only mildly change/cover the problem and lead to premature tire wear. So experiment a little and go with what works best for you, you like to run on the streets and the factory settings aren't really meant for that, on a loose or loamy track the torque steer isn't really noticble and the handling is good. Just find what works on asphalt and share your findings here and the others can do the same with different settings and I am almost sure you will find the perfect setting. Good luck and I hope this helps.

wouldnt the tire with less traction get most of the power?

Well its fixed. Setting the toe out in the front and the toe in in the rear made all the difference. Its steers straight. sometimes I get a slight drift but even then its not bad. I'm surprised that CEN does not set this when you by it, I was really turned off by the steering at first even almost sold truck because of this. I have looked a several other brands RTR (This is what the CEN box stated) and the toe in and out was set correctly. Not only that but when I bought my truck it came with not brake linkage from the servo how could somebody have missed that.

i