I read through this thread, and maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any mention of fuel or adjusting the idle screw. I normally run 20% nitro, but recently all my LHS had was 15%, so I've been running that. I had to lean the engine to keep it from stalling with the 15% nitro. Also, make sure you have the idle screw set such that it dictates the idle and not the throttle servo (otherwise you might have stalling issues when you put on the brakes). If you adjust the mixture, the idle will change and probably need to be adjusted.

Well i got my os #8 plugs today and it still wont keep running, maybe my idle is too high? Well i dont know, Since day 1 when it gave me problems i really dont know if i want to keep it, it keeps giving me problems that i dont know how to solve them. Maybe its my fuel, i really dont know. I might just sell it to someone else who knows what they are doing. I need the money and i just keep spending on the truck.

After once again trying to start my truck (with my grandpa) he notices that the glow plug is comletly dry and and the piston is too. The exhaust is spitting out alot of fuel? this doesnt seem right.

I'm not to sure about that one. Does the truck try to start at all? Maybe the sleave is in wrong? I think that these engines always have a free flow to them like a dirtbike.

I use os#8 plugs and byrons 30% nitro and most of the time she starts in a few pulls. When I first broke my truck in I think I gave the LSN a 1/4 turn to the left(don't think that you should follow that path tho). Opened the carb using the trim on the controler by +15 or something close to that and slowly turned that down as the engine freed up from running. I also primed the carb with my finger on the exhaust port and gave her 3 short/slow pulls. Put my glow starter on and pulled hard strait out letting the motor give 2 pops.


Inportant break in tip!!!
Just crack the glow plug a tiny bit before you put the glow starter on and tighten right after she starts.

think I got it all out...

I've tried most of that, im really puzzled.

When I first broke my truck in the only thing that slowed me down was when I forgot to crack it a little bit. And flooded once right before my first slow pass from a fouled plug.

Have you tryed to prime her then take the head off and see if it's getting wet? Only thing I can think of right now with the dry piston. Unless your getting fuel running into the exaust from the air line. Then you might just have a clog. Have you tryed to get fuel or air in the carb right where the fuel goes into it to see if everything is lined up right to flow freely?

Not yet... I will try tomorrow.

I would like to see a pic of what would be considered a dry plug and piston, if your engine is firing at all the plug and piston NOT be soaked and should appear to be dry. All due respect to your grandfather, however I have seen it to decieving that the cylinder appear to be very dry and the pipe appear "wet". This can happen when your engine is trying to fire but something is keeping it from "kicking".

After trying what you guys said i cant get it started. I bet its something really simple that i have no clue about. I have already spent too much money on it that i needed for other things. So all i can do is sell it.

Darkfire, come on buddy dont sell it!!(unless you wana sell it me Cheap!!jk) Seriously tho, dont sell it. It is something very simple, since these engines are very simple. Too bad you live in MA. A bit too far to drive to help ya out. I believe this problem could be fixed or figured out fairly quickly in person. And without costing too much if anything... You can send the truck to me and I will not charge you anything to get it running. I value my reputation, and I stake my reputation that I will have this problem resolved shortly. However, you could send it to CEN as well and have them give it a shot. Once you get it running you know it will be a blast, and you forget all about it....

Anyway, we just need to take our time to find the problem, step by step without interupption, keeping focused....Waana give it one more try?? Just you and I??

I really dont know TRD, I just dont want to spend any more money on it.

Well, the offer is on the table, either you can send it to me, CEN or we can give it another try here. You let me know, I will help ya out...

Trust me, you don't want to get rid of that truck. All you have to do is get her running. The reason I love this hobby is that I work out problems, takes stuff apart and get dirty. Once your truck is up and running, TRD is right, you'll forget about this bump in the road and learn from it and have a blast beating the snot out of the truck.

Have you tryed a diff glow starter? Maybe you got a bum one that doesn't charge all the way. When you cracked the glowplug loose how far did you move it. I had a hard time starting on my third slow run because I cracked it a bit to much so that a very slight movement tighter worked. It's just a off the wall thought that got me going. Hope you can get her running soon. Good luck and don't give up.

WOOHOO. I finally got this bad boy running again. I talked to Eric@Cen and he told me too look at my radio. Turns out he was right. Looking at the throttle settings on the radio the trim was set at 13 pts i believe in the brake. So i just switched it to around 20 forward, gave it a little throttle, pulled, and BOOM, it started right up. I idle the first tank but Im outta fuel. WHen idling it wanted to move forward just a little. I took a vid with my camera phone and ill put it on youtube, if i can... Now the trim is at around 13-15 in the vid. if i put it lower to try to lower the idle it wants to turn off. And the idle screw is at factory. Is this normal?

Git Er Done- DarkFire

Edit: Here is the vid[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdW2XhMyDrU[/link]

I know its bad quality, phone camera, but look and hear closely, it wants to move forward.

To quote my previous post (#51) about the idle, you have to make sure you have the idle screw set such that it dictates the idle and not the throttle servo (otherwise you might have stalling issues when you put on the brakes). While the vehicle is idling, if you put the brakes on, the engine RPM should remain constant. Also, there should be a point at which adjusting the throttle trim on the transmitter no longer lowers the idle because the carb's idle screw is now holding the carb open. Factors such as break-in, fuel, glow plug, temperature, etc. may require that the idle be set occasionally.

Thanks man, ill try that once i get more fuel.

I started to run the first tank today driving it around. And you were right eplummer, when i hit the brakes the engine turns off. In order to get it started the throttle trim has to be set at 20+. So I guess according to you the settings are not right. What should I do with the idle screw. Im currently running 20 % cause thats all the LHS had in stock, I believe the hsn is around 3.5-4 turns out and the lsn is around 1 turn out. How should the idle be, should i turn the idle in more to lower the throttle trim? Thanks for the help in advance.

Darkfire, you need to set the trim so the throttle closes all the way or the throttle servo linkage no longer has any force on the Carb Slider. Once you have determined that the servo is no longer controlling the slider you will turn the idle screw in until it holds the slider open and holds the desired idle RPM..

I have found that setting the idle is a balancing act that may require you to adjust the position of the throttle servo horn (by pulling it off and replacing it at a different angle on the splines), the linkage clamps (with the set screws), the transmitter throttle adjustment, the carb's idle screw, and the brakes (since they are all interconnected). I would set the transmitter to the neutral trim adjustment, and then adjust the carb's idle screw so the engine will idle, and when you put on the brakes, the throttle linkage doesn't push the carb's slider closed (I'm not sure if it is called a slider, but it is the "butterfly" on the other type of carb mechanism). It is hard to explain, but once it is set, it should just require minimal tweaking every now and then. One change I made that helped me with this adjustment was to put a return spring on the carb (connects the slider lever to a fixed point on the other side of the carb) and remove the spring assembly on the back side of the throttle servo horn. This somewhat isolated the brakes from the throttle. I can post a pic if you think it would help. BTW, 20% is a good everyday fuel.

pics would be good. I cant work on it now because the servo battery is charging.

Here are a couple pics of my dirty truck:

Two words "Simple Green"

Don't forget to locktite your servo horn screw down after you find your sweet spot...

I know, I haven't cleaned it for awhile, but it is due for a tear down to replace a worn center diff cup and to add some heavy diff lube, and I'll clean it up then. I have a fuel or exhaust leak somewhere around the carb because it is getting heavily gunked up there. It hasn't affected the performance though, so I haven't tracked it down.

I tried to post pics of my throttle linkage but my pc doesnt like the camera i have[:@] Im trying to figure out what you guys are trying to say and its really confusing[&:] Me being only 16 and not alot of knowlege with a nitro engine is hard. My servo horn(i think) is perpendicular to the servo. I have my idle in all the way and it wont turn over on nuetrual trim so i need to give it higher trim to get it started. What should i do, rotate the servo horn? if so clockwise or counter. Or should i try someting else?[:-]