Where were you a half hour ago Dave? I have the bottom block hallowed out but will go your way for the top half.

Thanks for the visual Ed. I do plan to run the torque wire and tube thru the tail post. I'll make sure the wire is supported so that the rudder doesn't take the landing energy. I did get that piece of pecan hardwood. It is extremely hard and appears to be eminently glueable. I'm going to try to determine if there is any "brittleness" to be concerned about, but I think it will work very well. Was away for the weekend, so no new issues at this point. Glad you're working through cowl issues. Your effort will certainly help mine.

Greg

Ed,

I guess we draw as fast as we can... But I'm glad that might be of help.

This is actually another area where I feel the Deception could use a slight modification. A 10% (or less) fuse widening would probably take care of things and provide a little more space for finishing. As it is, once painted, the fit of the motor mount tends to be in contact with the sides of the cowl - not great when it comes to vibration. If the engine is mounted on the rear of the mount, cutting off or trimming the front ends of the mount might be beneficial to clear the sides of the cowl.

Another interesting possibility would be to use a Sullivan soft (backplate) mount. Apparently no thrust washer support is needed when using this mount but a roomy nose ring is a good idea in any case.

Looking forward to the next update.

David.

The nose is done. Yes, I had to shorten and thin the engine mount. The bottom is done w/ the kit blocks and upper by Dave's idea. After thinking about it, I like the full block on the bottom just in case of a gear up landing or take off. Yes, I bumped the switch just as I was rotating and my Dad still laughs about it.

Ed,

nicely done and good thinking. I especially like the idea of a gear up takeoff!

Hey, maybe with that Webra if you angle her at 45 degrees and let her go, she might not need gear - after all it is called landing gear!

David.

I have the pan sides in place. I had to cut down the side to length to fit. Had the fuse. been right, everything would have fit. I put the bottom on to show the length difference. See how it lines up w/ the filler I put in? All that is left is to put in the tri stock, brass tubes for the screws and I am out of parts. I am now thinking on how I am going to do the elevator control horns. I may go w/ the dowel and 4-40 rod combo or use some Robart swivel control horns. I don't like the kit ones.

Ed,

if you go with the classic screw in dowel approach, one trick I learned is to drill out the dowel for the 4-40 screw and then drill out the top of the dowel to pass the head of a cap screw. You can then epoxy the screw and head into the dowel. When you bore out the control surface for the dowel and bond it to the surface, you then also glue both the dowel and cap screw.

Somewhat overkill but I found this easier and nicer to fabricate than screwing in the bolt in the reverse direction and clipping off the head and non threaded portion.

Just another idea.

David.

P.S. Considering the number of Deception kits sold, I'm surprised that those plans never were corrected by bringing the F3 former back to where it should be.

Dave,
I used the long 4-40 bolt and dowel trick for my T2A. I put it in before I shaped the elevators. I'll go w/ a 1/4" oak dowel and a sharp Forsner bit to put these in as the elevators are already shaped. I didn't think far enough ahead when I sanded the stab-tips-elevators.
Ed

I forgot that when you make epoxy and microballoons in a large batch, it get hot and shrinks when it cures. My fillets pulled up out at the edges to about 1/8" at the TE. The wing is still true in the saddle. May make a thinner slurry and reset the wing in it to make flush again. I had to do the same thing to FG fuse. fillets. Bellypan tri-stock in place and bottom preped with 5/8" brass tubing.

Ed,

I miss you already!!! What's the latest with your deception?

Greg

I'm at the fit and fiddle with stage right now. I'm fitting the fin/rudder right now after planning the rear top deck down to size and the pan is finished. I'll post pics later tonight.

The pan is ready for final shaping and fillets. Yes, that is filler in the pan. That's what you get when you drop your wing against the edge of a bench[:@]. The elevators are filtted and sized. You can see were the back of the top deck has been tapered to the plans for the fin area. I didn't like the kit control horn set up, so I went with the 4-40 bolt and dowel route. Nothing beats a good sharp set of Forstner bits for thick balsa. I do change my drill press for high speed when I do this for balsa for a clean hole w/o tear out. The dowels are in place and the elevators are ready for glass. I have used this control horn set up before, you get a lot of adjustment capabilities.

I have the exit guides cut out and will attach and paint after glassing. The fin is in place. Using the guide dowels made life a lot simpler plus stronger than a butt joint.

Looking really good Ed..... I plan to also use the doweled vertical fin approach you shared. It's just about time for me to mount the wing and tail surfaces. I hate this part.... haven't yet figured out a bullet proof way to get this right the first time, and it's so critical, I always stall about here.

Wish me luck.....

Greg

Here is the fin and dorsel in place. The rudder is fitted, sanded, hinged and ready for glass. The next thing to do is knock down the corners and make this a pattern bird.

Ed,

thanks for your thread. It has inspired me to take the lil' Deception off the rafters. If I can sort out a minor inconvenience - not! - then I might just get her finished!

In any event, I'm glad that I'm not the only one to whom this happens... (that'll teach me to leave my stab setting while I pick up the kids from school ). Now, if I'd only used wood glue instead of epoxy... life would be easier!

David.

If you DO decide to cut the stab loose Dave, I used a straight cutting bit in my Dremel and went SSSLLLOOOWWW. The hole was a little large so I just made up balsa wedges and centered the stab back in place. I Zapped the wedges then trimed flush and filled in w/ epoxy and milled fibers. After looking at the rudder throws of 2", I may have to modify the rudder tiller arm. It will take a lot of throw to make it work as is. I may use the aileron horn setup using a horn and wheel collar. What will be nice is that the brass will let the set screw bite in solid.

Here is the rudder control horn I'm going with. The screw bites very well in the brass. I have the tail skid fitted in place. Here we are starting to carve an aiplane. I will use the shavings for the fireplace. I use two layers of masking tape to protect what I don't want to gouge. Here the top in rounded to the plans profiles. The bottom and pan is tomorrow's project.

Ed,

nice, she's starting to take shape.

Say, when you suggested using a "straight cutting bit" are you referring to a regular wood drill bit? I hadn't thought of that approach but it might be a heck of a lot faster although it might remove a lot of material I'm thinking.

David.

Hey Dave.
They look like a drill bit the twist is designed to cut side ways. Think Roto Zip tools. The bit diameter is less the 1/8". I got mine at a swap shop.

Got it - thanks Ed.

David.

I have been planning, carving and sanding to get the fuselage round. I started to fill in the voids and dings w/ the micro filler. I wanted to see how it was to work with. I WILL be using this for my fillet work. It sets in 4-5 miutes and is sandable in 20. I knock it down with 150 grit and finish with 220. It sands and feathers very well and has a lot of body to it. I will finish the bottom pan work and then fillets, fillets and more fillets.

I'll look for that MicroLite stuff. I'm anxious to see how it works for your fillets where a thicker application is needed. Please keep the updates coming.

Greg

The bottom pan is done. I would not set in the brass tubes until AFTER you profile and contour the pan. Both of mine ripped out and had to be reset. Just cut holes so you can access the screws. I have filled in the gap of the curled fillets from post #84 w/ 30 min epoxy and micro ballons. I plan on doing the fillets this weekend. Getting close to glassing time.

Ed,

Got my wing mounting holes drilled and tapped without a problem. I started "glassing" my wing center section and tried the "peel/ply" approach for the first time. Almost a disaster. Did the top surface first, and only the front half peeled, the back half ripped out the glass cloth and a fair amount of balsa too. I tried to peel from the front and the back, and learned the hard way that I should have peeled from the side. I laid in another ply in the damaged area to restore the wing surface and it seems to have worked well enough. Will just need a little extra sanding to clean up the ridge from the second ply overlap areas. I have the bottom of the wing curing right now. I think it will be fine when I peel in the morning. I do like the surface that a good peel leaves. Also had to purchase a new engine mount because I got a NIB Webra .61 Speed "Champion" with an installed Perry pump off the auction site. I now need to move the engine a little forward so the pump intake/output nipples are accessable. The engine mount I had planned to use was set up for a non-pumped Webra Speed. The new one will fit into the same firewall mount holes and I haven't fabricated the cowl yet, so the extra length (1/4" or so) will be accounted for when I do.

Next up for me will be installing the horizontal and vertical stabilizers.

I'm itching to hear how your build is coming along.

Greg