world models intruder
#126
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Foxfire Village,
NC
Vince,
I did make sure that the small arc the wire had was matched up with the bend of the guide tubes before I tried moving the control rod wire through the tubes. It still felt like there was a significant amount of drag. More than I was comfortable with. I'll order some orange covering to patch the cutouts after I clip those tubes. I do have the pushrods going forward to the throttle and the nose gear done, and I have the "old-fashioned" pushrods to the elevator and the rudder built and ready to put in. Thanks for your input.
Greg
I did make sure that the small arc the wire had was matched up with the bend of the guide tubes before I tried moving the control rod wire through the tubes. It still felt like there was a significant amount of drag. More than I was comfortable with. I'll order some orange covering to patch the cutouts after I clip those tubes. I do have the pushrods going forward to the throttle and the nose gear done, and I have the "old-fashioned" pushrods to the elevator and the rudder built and ready to put in. Thanks for your input.
Greg
#127

My Feedback: (15)
Before you tear thing's apart, take some fine steel wool, polish the heck out of the wire's. I am not sure about any lubrication, I believe some guy's were using some kind of lube on the wire also. WD40 ? Not sure, we know that lube attract's dust, etc. Polish them up a bit.
Vince
Vince
#128
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Foxfire Village,
NC
Too late Vince... I did note that the wires provided were blackened by something... I assumed paint.... it does come off with fine sandpaper or steel wool, but I haven't applied any kind of lubricant, and the wires didn't feel as if any lubricant had ever been applied. The bend coming out of the fuselage was probably the source of most of that friction I felt.
Greg
Greg
#129

My Feedback: (15)
Here are a few picture's. Look at the picture's of the Intruder. You can see the one pix, where the wire's were used, the two piece's going to the elevator's, the plastic joiner at the servo end, not used, the wire's are wrapped with wire and soldered together. Look right under the wing bolt's, you can see the tube's. Another picture of DB pushrod's used, different plane.
Also, the aileron set-up, I make my own pushrod's out there, all 440.
There is probably some kind of Chinese rust preventative on the wire's. I stuck those dude's in there, and jimmyed them back and forth about a 100 time's, till they were loose to use in the tube's. The Cub is a bashed Arf, siamesed cowl, Saito twin.
Vince
Also, the aileron set-up, I make my own pushrod's out there, all 440.
There is probably some kind of Chinese rust preventative on the wire's. I stuck those dude's in there, and jimmyed them back and forth about a 100 time's, till they were loose to use in the tube's. The Cub is a bashed Arf, siamesed cowl, Saito twin.
Vince
#130

Chief....
I cut into the fuse bottom at the former just in front of the tube exits.....then I just cut away the glue and with pliers ripped those crummy plastic tubes out of the airplane.
Mine had sharp bends in them which made the cosmoline soaked wires drag even more.
I installed Sullivan red and yellow pushrods.
I used the plastic pushrod joiner in my installation and it has worked well for a couple of years now.
The entire installation works Cadillac smooth now. This was a lot less work than putting servos in the stabs....and trying to balance the model.
My airplane balances just right with the OS91P, LiIo battery with Jaccio regulator....
Originally, the elevator servo arm would twist severly and would have broken off had I flown the airplane with the original wire pushrods and plastic tube guides.
For the wing bolts.....I tapped a couple of hardwood blocks for 1/4-32 and put nylon bolts in there.....same thing for the bottom hatch cover with an 8-32 nylon bolt.
The general construction on my model is pretty bad....especially the elevators.
Each ele half was built on a flat surface....wrong....this means the c/l of the trailing edge is not parallel with the hinge line....ensuring that each elevator cannot be aligned to the other.
So.....I split the difference...one side is too high...the other is too low....
It flys ok after I diddled the adjustments and got it trimmed off.....
Hopefully, other examples of this airplane are built a lot better than mine.
DH
I cut into the fuse bottom at the former just in front of the tube exits.....then I just cut away the glue and with pliers ripped those crummy plastic tubes out of the airplane.
Mine had sharp bends in them which made the cosmoline soaked wires drag even more.
I installed Sullivan red and yellow pushrods.
I used the plastic pushrod joiner in my installation and it has worked well for a couple of years now.
The entire installation works Cadillac smooth now. This was a lot less work than putting servos in the stabs....and trying to balance the model.
My airplane balances just right with the OS91P, LiIo battery with Jaccio regulator....
Originally, the elevator servo arm would twist severly and would have broken off had I flown the airplane with the original wire pushrods and plastic tube guides.
For the wing bolts.....I tapped a couple of hardwood blocks for 1/4-32 and put nylon bolts in there.....same thing for the bottom hatch cover with an 8-32 nylon bolt.
The general construction on my model is pretty bad....especially the elevators.
Each ele half was built on a flat surface....wrong....this means the c/l of the trailing edge is not parallel with the hinge line....ensuring that each elevator cannot be aligned to the other.
So.....I split the difference...one side is too high...the other is too low....
It flys ok after I diddled the adjustments and got it trimmed off.....
Hopefully, other examples of this airplane are built a lot better than mine.
DH
#132
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Foxfire Village,
NC
Dave,
Thank you for your comments. I can't see the guide tubes in my "90F" well enough to see if there are kinks, but I know that the amount of drag I can feel is not a good thing.... so those tubes are coming out. I'll probably use Vince's approach to the wing hold downs and yours for the bottom hatch cover. Still waiting for the orange covering material to be delivered.... I'd really like to get this thing into the air next weekend. Will post a few photos of the finished bird.
Greg
Thank you for your comments. I can't see the guide tubes in my "90F" well enough to see if there are kinks, but I know that the amount of drag I can feel is not a good thing.... so those tubes are coming out. I'll probably use Vince's approach to the wing hold downs and yours for the bottom hatch cover. Still waiting for the orange covering material to be delivered.... I'd really like to get this thing into the air next weekend. Will post a few photos of the finished bird.
Greg
#133

My Feedback: (15)
Throttle servo. Throttle over-ride. Hook up, no set screw needed at the center of the arm pin. I have secured this in the past, not needed. You can adjust the spring's, out and in, when too much stick is used, as in the old day's, this will prevent over riding on the servo, affecting the throttle arm on the carb, etc. This can also be used on the nose gear steering arm. With modern radio's now, we can use travel adjust. This is just a safety valve.
Stopped in the shop on way out to get the morning new's, picked up one of the package's for the over-ride. These are still available at your LHS, or order on-line. Few picture's one of the Intruder's in flight.
Vince
Stopped in the shop on way out to get the morning new's, picked up one of the package's for the over-ride. These are still available at your LHS, or order on-line. Few picture's one of the Intruder's in flight.
Vince
#134
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Foxfire Village,
NC
Never noticed that "overide" connector before.....
Looks like you're having a great time flying that Intruder. Are you competing with it? If so, do you consider it "competitive" with the other airplanes out there?
A few shots of the "business" end of my WM Intruder attached.....
Greg
Looks like you're having a great time flying that Intruder. Are you competing with it? If so, do you consider it "competitive" with the other airplanes out there?
A few shots of the "business" end of my WM Intruder attached.....
Greg
#135

My Feedback: (15)
A good flyer with this Intruder, can be on top, vs. anyone of average ability with any other plane. I have seen Dave Phillip's from down in AL, fly these Intruder's like they were on rail's, and win with them. I have done OK in some contest's with them, and that is just "OK", nothing great. My plan now, try to get up with ama pattern in Sportsman class. Using Piedmont Focus Sport's. YS 110 power. One plane has been flying, another one being finished now, same set-up, luckily, I just found another NIB YS110.
SPA contest's for me, just too far away. Figure 1300 mile's, round trip, hotel, etc., make's for a $800.00 weekend. I am stashing cash for another Grady White boat purchase, better used there at this time. You have a nice engine installation, Chief, looks good.
Vince
SPA contest's for me, just too far away. Figure 1300 mile's, round trip, hotel, etc., make's for a $800.00 weekend. I am stashing cash for another Grady White boat purchase, better used there at this time. You have a nice engine installation, Chief, looks good.
Vince
#136
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Palm Bay,
FL
NOTE,
While you all are at it, before flying, it would be best to check the covering around the leading edge of the wing and stab. I found out the hard way. That strange buzzing sound at full warp was the covering lifting on the LE edge if the starboard wing. It hasn't flown since.
During the postmortem it was revealed that the leading edge covering on the other wing and the stab were also not stuck and in testing I could not make it stick.
If I ever complete the repair I will wrap the leading edge with clear something.
BTW, good luck matching the orange covering.
AW
While you all are at it, before flying, it would be best to check the covering around the leading edge of the wing and stab. I found out the hard way. That strange buzzing sound at full warp was the covering lifting on the LE edge if the starboard wing. It hasn't flown since.
During the postmortem it was revealed that the leading edge covering on the other wing and the stab were also not stuck and in testing I could not make it stick.
If I ever complete the repair I will wrap the leading edge with clear something.
BTW, good luck matching the orange covering.
AW
#138
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Foxfire Village,
NC
Thanks for the good advice guys... I'm thinking the orange covering will be a very close match since I ordered the same stuff that's on the Intruder now. I may have done what you did Vince, but since I lost two planes in back-to-back flying sessions, I'm down to 'nothing to fly', so wanted to do this the fastest way possible.
Greg
Greg
#139
Just to let you know. There where so many complaints about the covering, World Models finelly took notice and now use a clear covering of some type to seal the seams on the leading edges. Not sure how well it works, but I just finished a Zen 30 for another flyer and it has the same thing on it and it seems to be holding up so far.
Bob
Bob
#140
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Foxfire Village,
NC
Bob, Wish I could confirm that for you. I just bought this WM Intruder a few weeks ago and it doesn't have any clear film protecting the leading edges..
Greg
Greg
#141

My Feedback: (26)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: El Paso,
TX
ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
Chief....
I cut into the fuse bottom at the former just in front of the tube exits.....then I just cut away the glue and with pliers ripped those crummy plastic tubes out of the airplane.
Mine had sharp bends in them which made the cosmoline soaked wires drag even more.
I installed Sullivan red and yellow pushrods.
I used the plastic pushrod joiner in my installation and it has worked well for a couple of years now.
The entire installation works Cadillac smooth now. This was a lot less work than putting servos in the stabs....and trying to balance the model.
My airplane balances just right with the OS91P, LiIo battery with Jaccio regulator....
Originally, the elevator servo arm would twist severly and would have broken off had I flown the airplane with the original wire pushrods and plastic tube guides.
For the wing bolts.....I tapped a couple of hardwood blocks for 1/4-32 and put nylon bolts in there.....same thing for the bottom hatch cover with an 8-32 nylon bolt.
The general construction on my model is pretty bad....especially the elevators.
Each ele half was built on a flat surface....wrong....this means the c/l of the trailing edge is not parallel with the hinge line....ensuring that each elevator cannot be aligned to the other.
So.....I split the difference...one side is too high...the other is too low....
It flys ok after I diddled the adjustments and got it trimmed off.....
Hopefully, other examples of this airplane are built a lot better than mine.
DH
Chief....
I cut into the fuse bottom at the former just in front of the tube exits.....then I just cut away the glue and with pliers ripped those crummy plastic tubes out of the airplane.
Mine had sharp bends in them which made the cosmoline soaked wires drag even more.
I installed Sullivan red and yellow pushrods.
I used the plastic pushrod joiner in my installation and it has worked well for a couple of years now.
The entire installation works Cadillac smooth now. This was a lot less work than putting servos in the stabs....and trying to balance the model.
My airplane balances just right with the OS91P, LiIo battery with Jaccio regulator....
Originally, the elevator servo arm would twist severly and would have broken off had I flown the airplane with the original wire pushrods and plastic tube guides.
For the wing bolts.....I tapped a couple of hardwood blocks for 1/4-32 and put nylon bolts in there.....same thing for the bottom hatch cover with an 8-32 nylon bolt.
The general construction on my model is pretty bad....especially the elevators.
Each ele half was built on a flat surface....wrong....this means the c/l of the trailing edge is not parallel with the hinge line....ensuring that each elevator cannot be aligned to the other.
So.....I split the difference...one side is too high...the other is too low....
It flys ok after I diddled the adjustments and got it trimmed off.....
Hopefully, other examples of this airplane are built a lot better than mine.
DH
#142

My Feedback: (15)
Chief - If you bought the Intruder from a hobby shop, good luck. It could have been sitting on the shelf for close to two year's. Last year, I had dorked my Intruder #1, needed another real fast. I had the back up to #1, now I needed another for another backup, contest coming up, had to get it done, quick.
I found one at a hobby shop up in Orlando. The age of the kit, meaning, older or newer, was primary. Ordering direct from CA was going to take a week or more to get.
Called, the owner give me the "I don't know how old it is, we sell a lot of these". It came, and so did his bull-t. It was a very old kit. No time to waste, I did the mod's and put it together. I only buy from hobby shop's now, that move product. Do most everything with mail order, but when I need something fast, I go down to 3G's Hobby in West Palm Beach. Great attitude's, knowledge, and usually have what I am looking for, as I call first before making the trip. Great service also. I am sure there are other hobby shop's that give that kind of service.
Did you purchase direct from the distributor in CA ?
Vince
I found one at a hobby shop up in Orlando. The age of the kit, meaning, older or newer, was primary. Ordering direct from CA was going to take a week or more to get.
Called, the owner give me the "I don't know how old it is, we sell a lot of these". It came, and so did his bull-t. It was a very old kit. No time to waste, I did the mod's and put it together. I only buy from hobby shop's now, that move product. Do most everything with mail order, but when I need something fast, I go down to 3G's Hobby in West Palm Beach. Great attitude's, knowledge, and usually have what I am looking for, as I call first before making the trip. Great service also. I am sure there are other hobby shop's that give that kind of service.
Did you purchase direct from the distributor in CA ?
Vince
#143
Cheif, did you buy it at the LHS or direct? If you got it at the LHS, how long did they have it?
It's not that I dobt you Cheif, but the last one I saw had it. Well, you know what the quality control is like out of China. Ever had a bad day at work and your quality control suffered. I think those little china women have PMS every day.
Vince beat me to it. I typed this and by the time I posted it, Vince had said it for me! [:@]



Bob
It's not that I dobt you Cheif, but the last one I saw had it. Well, you know what the quality control is like out of China. Ever had a bad day at work and your quality control suffered. I think those little china women have PMS every day.

Vince beat me to it. I typed this and by the time I posted it, Vince had said it for me! [:@]




Bob
#144
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Foxfire Village,
NC
Bob - Vince,
I bought the plane from Airborne Models. I think they're the "official" source for WM products in the USA. Don't have a LHS anywhere close to where I live.
Greg
I bought the plane from Airborne Models. I think they're the "official" source for WM products in the USA. Don't have a LHS anywhere close to where I live.
Greg
#145
Greg,
After you do buy a kit, ARF or other hobby product you are responsible for the end result yourself.
I only can advice you, buy yourself a very good educated Quality Insurance Cat (QIC) and be aware of fairy tales.
For example I do have Hanna, does inspect any incoming product as show on the picture, the Robbe Modis data logger for the Oldest Taurus on Earth and Simla.
Cees
After you do buy a kit, ARF or other hobby product you are responsible for the end result yourself.
I only can advice you, buy yourself a very good educated Quality Insurance Cat (QIC) and be aware of fairy tales.
For example I do have Hanna, does inspect any incoming product as show on the picture, the Robbe Modis data logger for the Oldest Taurus on Earth and Simla.
Cees
#146

My Feedback: (26)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: El Paso,
TX
ORIGINAL: Taurus Flyer
Greg,
After you do buy a kit, ARF or other hobby product you are responsible for the end result yourself.
I only can advice you, buy yourself a very good educated Quality Insurance Cat (QIC) and be aware of fairy tales.
For example I do have Hanna, does inspect any incoming product as show on the picture, the Robbe Modis data logger for the Oldest Taurus on Earth and Simla.
Cees
Greg,
After you do buy a kit, ARF or other hobby product you are responsible for the end result yourself.
I only can advice you, buy yourself a very good educated Quality Insurance Cat (QIC) and be aware of fairy tales.
For example I do have Hanna, does inspect any incoming product as show on the picture, the Robbe Modis data logger for the Oldest Taurus on Earth and Simla.
Cees
#147
Prop_washer2
I am afraid that will not work, Hanna is only specialized in European and American Classic Pattern flying, planes and materials (and some Japanese), I hope you understand why (we are afraid of being chewing up!).
We do learning and surfing every day for the important facts and information but unfortunately we also do find sad information. For example, Hanna did find this picture (see below) in a USA RC Club photo album,
Our own Tony Fandino wins Sportsman Class and Bennett Trophy at the
2005 AMA NATS
http://www.amps-rc.com/FeaturedArtic...AtTheNats.html
Under the photo (Surf to photo 61) was written:
Another vintage plane, can't make out wat it is
And these are real facts of ARF,
Almost Ready with Forget.
A reason for us to reconstruct the history and find the facts again.
Hanna en Cees
I am afraid that will not work, Hanna is only specialized in European and American Classic Pattern flying, planes and materials (and some Japanese), I hope you understand why (we are afraid of being chewing up!).
We do learning and surfing every day for the important facts and information but unfortunately we also do find sad information. For example, Hanna did find this picture (see below) in a USA RC Club photo album,
Our own Tony Fandino wins Sportsman Class and Bennett Trophy at the
2005 AMA NATS
http://www.amps-rc.com/FeaturedArtic...AtTheNats.html
Under the photo (Surf to photo 61) was written:
Another vintage plane, can't make out wat it is
And these are real facts of ARF,
Almost Ready with Forget.
A reason for us to reconstruct the history and find the facts again.
Hanna en Cees
#148
Hi,
That picture must be an Orion with trigear with nosewheelinstead of the orginal maingear and tailwheel.
Nice plane butOrion with maingear with tailwheel is more of my taste.
/Bo
That picture must be an Orion with trigear with nosewheelinstead of the orginal maingear and tailwheel.
Nice plane butOrion with maingear with tailwheel is more of my taste.
/Bo
#149
Bo,
There is much more to tell about this pattern ship, we also did make a study of this plane
Remarkable is, AMA pattern flyers do have this picture in their photo album, not knowing it is the plane of Ed Kazmirski, our all first World Champion.
What do you think, will I send a message to their president?
Cees
There is much more to tell about this pattern ship, we also did make a study of this plane
Remarkable is, AMA pattern flyers do have this picture in their photo album, not knowing it is the plane of Ed Kazmirski, our all first World Champion.
What do you think, will I send a message to their president?
Cees
#150
I'm going to use Day Glo Orange and Voilet on my Intruder because all of the film has been removed except the white. Is there any problem using Monocote over the film that is on it originally?
I see that the Siato used on one of our other posters model is mounted on it's side. Anyone mount a Magnum 4Stroke on it's side before?
Thanks,
Chris...
I see that the Siato used on one of our other posters model is mounted on it's side. Anyone mount a Magnum 4Stroke on it's side before?
Thanks,
Chris...


