OK, I just tested it, and it didn't work in 5. I moved it back to six (1 up from the bottom, and it works fine. I have a Blade CP, not a CP2 if that makes a diff.

Not a DJ... djdavid = Douglas J. David

My toothpick is stronger than the stock main shaft (BCP)

The stock batteries can be run into the ground and it won't hurt them. You might lose some longevityb but not likely. Just make sure you let them cool off for at least 15 minutes before recharging. It's best to recharge when you notice a difference in power.

Dennis--Mine is in five, wierd. Of course right now it's in nothing since I'm waiting on the new one. Remember I hooked the battery reversed and fried the esc.

Try this site.......


http://www.bladecprepair.com/troubleshooting.php

zooland1,

Your ball-link pliers look great! I had thought about doing something like that but thought you may not get enough force to pry some balls off- glad you tried it! I'll have to make a set now- thanks!

Zooland


I guess your switch did not help when you hooked up the battery in reverse ?? I take it the was the switch on. I ordered
some jst plugs for mine so hopefully i won't have the same problem. Oh yes and another Main shaft (just in case).
I hate waiting on parts.

Bob

dignlivn

With Lipo's and correct pitch adjustment you won't see red until the battery is just starting to fade. The red light may be illuminating at near to full collective, even with solid battery charge, but you can't see the 4:1 when it's above eye level.

Myne is in 6 also the bottom is battery not shure what that is for,What I meant by wrong is right and front were swapped.

I've been using 2s lipos since I got my blade. When I got my 3s's instead of red and black wires they were white and black. Being a part time electrician, my first instinct was black is hot, white is ground. Never thought twice about it. My mistake was not checking with a meter first. When I threw the switch, fizzle, pop, bright lights and smoke.

Just finished rebuilding my Blade CP. Looks like new again, but this time it cost about $55.00 No more silly experiments for me like forward flight in the driveway until I learn how to turn correctly. LOL Ain't as easy as the simulator heli's, when the nerves kick in... LOL

Black wires in a VW bug are hot, and brown is ground, but in most cases, red is hot, and black is ground. Im lost on the house wireing though... I know how to plug into it though. LOL

How I change out the main gearshaft on the blade CP!

1.) disconnect the control links that go from the swashplate at the flybar side only.
2.) Pull out the pin through the spindle rotor head.
3.) pull the entire rotor head assembly upward from the main spindle.
4.) file any burrs over the 1mm hole that goes through the spindle shaft. I use a flat jewlers file
5.) pull the stock skid rods partway through the plastic side frame and out of the main frame one by one.
you need to slide the silicone tube sections away from the side frame before removing the the skid rods free of the main frame sockets
6.) now rotate the entire skid unit away to one side which will now allow the entire gearshaft to be pulled down through once you loosen the screw on the alum collar between the main frame and the swashplate.
If your shaft is bent to hard you may need to cut it off with a 1/16 wide cut off wheel mounted on a dremel tool. It works kinda like a small chop saw. make sure to protect your critical parts from sparks while you sever the shaft. Maybe some of you have other ways of doing this to save even more time. Carefully reinstall the new shaft up through the alum collar swashplate, and then reinstall the rotor head unit. reinstall the control links to the ball links on the flybar frame. You can use a small sewing needle to hold the rotor head unit in line to the spindle shaft pin hole while you push the new shft pin in from the opposite side with needle nose pliers.
Randy

The thrill of flying is greater then the sound of crashing

Guys one small revision that I need to make on step number one. Disconnect the links from the swashplate end of the rotor head unit [instead of the flybar side]. this step would only be needed if you also bent the blade grip spindle shaft. The servo control arms should hold the swashplate in place. Also you can feed the gearshaft up through the lower bearing then the upper bearing then hold the alum collar with a needle nose pliers why you guide the shaft up through. I hope this will be of some help to those of you who don't want to dissassemble anymore then you need to.
Enjoy flying
Randy

That's how I always did mine.

Being a part time electrician, my first instinct was black is hot, white is ground. Never thought twice about it. My mistake was not checking with a meter first. When I threw the switch, fizzle, pop, bright lights and smoke.
[/quote]

Zooland

Thats a good point. different color coded wires AC /DC. I'll keep all hot wires colored red when i install the switch. I am
determined to hover and LAND successfully with my Stock bcp( after a few rebuilds) before i go to lipo's.

Bob

dignlivn

Hy guys... I am sure there was an explanation on this thread but been so long, I guess I better ask again... hehehe.... I upgraded my BCP with the aluminum swash... and lipos, It was flying ok until last sunday that i had a minor accident, lost flotation some how and came in to the ground, not hard but It got my blades chipped... I switched to the CF blades and now the Heli YO-YO's while hovering, I have it at about 5' and suddenly drops about 1.5'. Can someone please advice what to check for?, I am pretty new with helis so I would appreciate any help.... thanks and long live my heli.. hehehehe

There have been lots of opinions on the bouncing blade thing. Mine is simply from my own experience. I found the solution to be a tail rotor motor that is going bad. I am not an electrician, but it seems to be something to do with the current draw or something as they start to wear out. Maybe someone who is more knowledgable on the topic could explain it better to me (idf it is even possible, what I have suggested). Heck I do not know if it makes sense about the electrical stuff I mentioned.

That fix has worked for me, so perhaps it will work for you.

John Sparks

check your feathering shaft. sometimes, even small ooops bend it, which will cause a yo-yo effect.

Cool, I just rebuilt my BCP and it has a new feathering shaft, I hope it calmed that yo yo down. LOL Will test it today.

Do you mean the Flybar??

The book calls it the Main shaft, but on a real heli, it's the feathering shaft.

Hey where is the cheapest place to buy Blade Cp parts online...

Heli-direct and Balsa PR are good, but they carry only Honeybee Cp2 parts, some will work, but not all

Anyone have any discount sources? Anywhere that is cheaper than my local hobby store...

Most online places that carry E-flite stuff are exactly the same price as my LHS!

I dont want to pay $10.00 for a rotor head! $4.00 for pitch control links and for the love of god $4.00 for O rings.... jeez

Horizon Hobby

Heres my understanding of the 3 metal shafts on the heli.
1) Main Shaft. This is the vertical shaft, 3mm, has a big gear on the end driven by the motor.
2) Feathering Shaft. Metal horizontal shaft that connects the bladegrips through the head.
3) Flybar. The small metal bar on the top of the head that connects the small plastic paddles.

I think the flybar is the only one that has a consistent name. I've seen lots of other names/descriptions for the first 2.

Most pricing is about the same online. Sure, some have for a few cents less here and there, sometimes more. It really comes down to service and shipping. I like willstech.com, they are extremely fast at shipping the order, most times same day. Charge actual shipping cost (4.05 for USPS Priority mail, 1-3 days continental US), and a stated up front 1.50 handling. I dont mind the 1.50 handling, as they tell you upfront, and they sure earn it with there level of service.

Sure I can drive across town to the LHS, but for the 5.55 total for shipping and handling, its not worth the gas, time or traffic. Washington DC sucks on traffic,I'm sure as most everywhere else.

Hobby-estore.com = Sucks
China (rc-expert) = Sucks (service wise, and for sending u incomplete parts, but the $20 3s 1200mah lipo worked out good)
Hobby4less = Mixed results (but thats for DF#4 stuff)
HeliHobby = Ok in my experience, but others had had mixed results
HorizonHobby = OK. good service so far
Wholesaletrains.com (yes, they have CP parts), OK so far
willstech.com = My favorite. Its only 1 (sometimes 2) day shipping for me.

I usually buy enough in advance, so that the 2 days wont kill me.

Then again, if i absolutely, positively have to have it the same day, and the LHS has it, i'll brave the traffic.

crashn_bernstein (only the crashes are more spectacular and more devistating now that i can somewhat fly around)