I have that toggle on my DF. Both the switch and toggle are only 3 amp, but at 120v. I haven't had any problem with 2s or 3s lipos. I have one on my GWS Beaver and Pico too.

slotcar-it's a little confusing figuring out what goes where, but it's not too bad. I think it was futura that posted pics a while back. I have the shortcut saved on my laptop, but not this one. I'll check it later. They helped me a lot. I think it's somewhere in the mid-80's. Sorry, best I can do for now.

I'll see if I can find it. LOL, I'll probably use any free time I have today looking for the link and won't have any time left to do the conversion.

Most of the heli pilots in Asia switch packs so often that a switch wouldn't be of much use and just adds weight (that's what they told me). Anyway, the switch should be able to handle the current for both motors, probably 10amps at 12v would do it.

Dennis and zooland

Thanks for your help. I will research it more before I install one.

Bob

dignlivn

Hi

I was wandering if any one knows if there is a high quality main shaft upgrade available for the HB CP2 because I am really getting sick and tired of replacing the stock stainless steel main shaft that is used on the Blade CP. The guy who thought that a stainless steel main shaft was a good idea needs to have his head smashed in with a rock. IMO the main shaft should be the strongest part on the helicopter not one of the weakest. The balsa wood blades are stronger then the stock main shaft.

Agreed. I dont replace it until i bend the crap out of it... Mine is bent right now, but im still flying..

AJ DRAGON

I agree, I have bent main shafts too with out destroying the blades. I have replaced 4 shafts and 5 spindles and or there abouts?
i need help with LANDING (controled crash)

Bob

dignlivn

Still not at the laptop, but hopefully by now you found it.

My purpose for the switch is to have an easily accessable on and off. If I need to just transport it for a ways, I can leave the battery in and don't have to worry about some glitch ripping it out of my hands. It's also very covenient when setting pitch and such. All I have to do is throw the switch, check pitch, turn off the switch, adjust, throw the switch. Also very nice if you realize a few seconds too late you forgot to turn on the TX first.

Read post 2487

Yeah, I have a bent mainshaft too. The venom shaft is tough though. Havn't bent it. Only tough part on the NR3D. LOL My BCP flies great after rebalancing the blades to compensate for the wobbel. Funny what a little piece of electrical tape can do. I bungee the heli to the top of a stool form that stuff. I wont see my new shaft and gear for a week, maybe I can straighten it a little until then.

I read post 2487 but im not going to all that trouble. I'll just use the stock direct replacements. Im lazy... LOL

Just thought I would share some of my ideas for getting the main gear shaft of the blade cp true again. If you have access to a lathe a 1/8" 5c collet will hold the shaft. Grip the shaft in the collet then place a .001 dial indicator over the shaft as you place the lathe in neutral and rotate the gear shaft by hand to the high point on the indicator. apply slight pressure using the plastic hub that extends past the gear. repeat this until the shaft runs true again I can get it down to .001 of an inch true. Another idea is to use vee blocks and a magnetic base indicator if you don't have access to a lathe. other people have used a bridgeport milling machine with 1/8'R8 collet. Of course buy another for a spare but don't throw away your bent gear shaft until you give this a try. Have fun flying!

Randy

Thanks Randy, I don't have a lathe, but as easy as it bent, it will be easy to bend back. I just cant figure out how to get the rotor head off. Do I just disconnect the flybar pushrods from the swash and pull the pin ? Thats what it looks like to me... Am I right ? Dennis

No problem, I just pulled the pin and the whole head came off real sweeeeeeeeet !!! Now to see how badly it's bent. Cool.... (didn't even remove the bades)

Allright !!! My BCP main shaft is straight as an arrow now, and the rotor head all back on. That was way to easy. I also figured out where my slop was (between the shaft and the pin.) Now to check the tracking and balance. Now that's gettin er done !! WooooHooooo !!! LOL

Hi

If i could figure out a way of drilling the cotter pin hole and the shear pin hole through the metal stock I would make my own main shaft. That is the only thing keeping me from making my own main shafts.

Yeah, they probably have a tube it fits in, to be drilled, thru a hole in the tube or whatever it is, maybe a block with holes in it, thats all can figure. You ain't gunna do it on a drill press without a jig, thats for sure. Well the tracking was off just a hair, and 1 small piece of tape balanced the blades perfect. It's as good and smooth as it was when it was new !!! Yipeeeee !!!

If you dismantle a cd rom drive the rod the tray slides on is 3mm SS. You can drill a pin hole, but you'd have to figure out a way to attach the gear. I've made shafts for my DF, but haven't needed one for the blade since I went to the CP2 shaft and gear. Like spinmachinist, I have a machine shop, which helps. By the way, if you decide to take apart cd roms, save all the parts. Every screw (all metric and very handy) and especially the motor. You can rewind the motor and go brushless, which starts you into a whole new hobby. Also very addictive.

[ This is my first post on the blade cp thread! Took 2 weeks to read all of the posts!!!!!! Not to be rude but This was my first ever helicopter, even though i have had 2 years experience flying planes. Everybody talks like "oh i crashed my blade today, bent this, broke that". i have no sim time what so ever. On the first battery pack i had the thing in a hover, but i had to touch back down every minute or so. 1 month later i'm doing FF, rolls and loops, and learning to fly inverted. The only damage i've done to mine was clip the blades on some furniture in my house. This a the greatest thing i've flown so far. The ability to fly anywhere~Priceless!

Some get it quicker than others, thats for sure. I think this is the hardest thing I have ever learned to do. I should have started with a Blade CP, I learned on a VNR3D, and I crashed alot !!! I think the younger folks catch on quicker too.

I'm 16 going on 17 and i fly electric foamy aerobatic planes. The precise movement off all controls played a major part in my success of the BLADE CP

Well seems I have poped up hereat the right time. After my 3 previously mentioned successful attempts thurs at the LHS. I got another flite in on fri. during our regular club meeting. Feeling rather proud of myself, I ventured outside today for some practice at home. It was calm and sunny. I don't haved a paved area and figured it would be alright to fly over the grass. MISTAKE! On liftoff the gear snagged, and it nosed over, then bouced back on the tail when the rotors hit. Nodamage to rotors, but have a slightly bent main shaft, and the tail skid snapped off. I didn't notice that until I was back in the house. Anyway, I have obtained a new mainshaft, and will take the old one to my friends house to true it in his lathe. then I'll keep it for a spare.
I noticed that the setscrew from the collar also left a small burr that won't go through the bearing. I will have to get a small file to masage it so I can slip the shaft out.

As for you machinists, couldn't you hold the main gear on with a pin also? would that help with your creation of home made shafts? also what about a carbon fiber rod or tube for a shaft? any thoughts?

Almost forgot, what is the accepted repair for the tail skid?

I finished installing the Esky Bell Hiller head. It works great. These are parts I needed from heli-fever.com:

EK1-0228 Center hub set............$6.75
EK1-0229 Rotor head set............$6.75
EK1-0231 Paddle control frame....$4.38
EK1-0234 Pitch control link.........$3.13

Total......................................$21.01

I also picked up a couple sets of their $5 wooden beta blades and I do like them.
I find the performance with this BH upgrade is much better. My BCP is more stable and a lot easier to fly and keep under control.

Well, I just fixed my tail boom after attacking the couch. First taped, then wrapped with thread beyond the tape, then a few drops of CA, maybe 5 to soak all the thread. Straightening the main shaft again now. LOL What is it with me and this mainshaft ? Got it straight again, but im afraid if I don't quit crashing, Im gunna break some kind of record for a guy who can easily hover a whole pack. LOL Took my thunb off the left stick to scratch my nose, and oops !!! Bad time for the voltage to say "go that way now". Soon as I touched my nose, the tail went between 45 and 90 degree's off. Maybe that tail motor is getting weird finally. It's been doing that lately, I just been living with it. Remember, land before scratching anything. LOL In about 20 minutes, she'll be good as new, only and less nose heavy than it was. Now it's almost perfect !!! Good thing I crashed !!! LOL

The stock tail skid is garbage, I replaced mine with a fin from heli-direct.com. I attached it to the tail boom with a 3/16 landing gear mount. Here are links to everything I used:

Here's the tail fin:

http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...roducts_id=751

It's for a HoneyBee Cool or King.

I fastened it on with a Du-bro 3/16 landing gear strap, part number 811. Which fits perfectly around the tail boom. I used a little masking tape inside the landing gear strap to firm up the fit. You can see them here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=WR&I=LXVJ28

I used Du-bro 2-56 Steel Hex nuts part number 560 to fasten it to the boom. Those are the best way I found to mount it. Both are easily available at your local hobby store.

I snapped off two tail supports within about a week of each other. I haven't had a single problem with the tail since putting on my fin and it looks good on the blade. Heres a couple pics:


Doug

Alright, I officially hate the heli-world website. Trying to find things on there is a complete PITA.

Anyone have a link to the Century mainshaft and Main gear? I'm looking for the autorotation one.

Thanks!