E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
#1526
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From: whangmatacoromandel, NEW ZEALAND
when I turn both the heli and the tranzmiter on the LED light in the heli stays red and nether the main or tail rotor spin, eventhough I can still make the main rotor tilt forward, back and sideways. does anyone know how to fix this?
#1527
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From: tucson,
AZ
Any suggestions? I'm not really ready for the 3D upgrade kit and I'm not sure I am ready to make the financial commitment to LIPOs, but would a motor upgrade work with the stock NiMH? If so any suggestions?
I haven't flown heli's yet, but I think the LiPo upgrade may be worth it. I don't know the extent of your background in electric, without taking measurements of Power In vs. Power Out, the difference to me seems to be as follows:
8 cell 9.6V x approx. 6 amps = 57.6 Watts
3 cell 11.1V x approx. 6 amps = 66.6 Watts
The Power increase would appear to be approximately 16%. The tail rotor should be more responsive as well.
Perhaps after the holidays some of the Blade Drivers will share their experience with the battery upgrade.
#1528
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From: Myakka City, FL
Whangamata
Turn the transmitter on first with the throttle and throttle trim set to its lowest setting and then plug the battery in for the heli. Don't move the heli until the green light turns on solid
Turn the transmitter on first with the throttle and throttle trim set to its lowest setting and then plug the battery in for the heli. Don't move the heli until the green light turns on solid
#1530
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From: Raleigh,
NC
ORIGINAL: jguttler
Whangamata
Turn the transmitter on first with the throttle and throttle trim set to its lowest setting and then plug the battery in for the heli. Don't move the heli until the green light turns on solid
Whangamata
Turn the transmitter on first with the throttle and throttle trim set to its lowest setting and then plug the battery in for the heli. Don't move the heli until the green light turns on solid
#1531
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From: Moss point,
MS
when I turn both the heli and the tranzmiter on the LED light in the heli stays red and nether the main or tail rotor spin, eventhough I can still make the main rotor tilt forward, back and sideways. does anyone know how to fix this?
Make sure that the idle up switch on the transmitter is in the down pos. first before you do anything. this could be your prob.
quote:
Any suggestions? I'm not really ready for the 3D upgrade kit and I'm not sure I am ready to make the financial commitment to LIPOs, but would a motor upgrade work with the stock NiMH? If so any suggestions?
sjw985;
I haven't flown heli's yet, but I think the LiPo upgrade may be worth it. I don't know the extent of your background in electric, without taking measurements of Power In vs. Power Out, the difference to me seems to be as follows:
8 cell 9.6V x approx. 6 amps = 57.6 Watts
3 cell 11.1V x approx. 6 amps = 66.6 Watts
The Power increase would appear to be approximately 16%. The tail rotor should be more responsive as well.
Perhaps after the holidays some of the Blade Drivers will share their experience with the battery upgrade.
the motor upgrade will work on the stock setup but i recommend the lipo upgrade for longer flight times. I am using GWS 1300 3s lipo's and I love it. Cheaper than the thunder pack also. really brings out the potential of the heli with lipos though.
#1532
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From: Moss point,
MS
My futaba 7c will warn you when you turn it on if the idle up switch is on. I like that it keeps this from happening, I am sure the 9c works like this also.
#1533
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From: Myakka City, FL
Brand new BCP owner here and just unpacked mine and have been trying the RADD lessons. I seem to be having trouble maneuvering this thing on the ground. It's not responsive to going right when it's light on the skids. The ailerons are definitely working, but it will only seem to skid left, back and forward. It looks as if it will tip over if I give it too much right aileron. I'm using a 1320 lipo pack and have turned the gain down as the tail was twitching when I installed this battery.
Merry Christmas all
John
PS. I've now got the training gear on it, but the behavior seems the same. I'm reluctant to take it off the ground until I understand this.
Another question. Do I set the throttle trim to midpoint all the time? I've been powering it up, moving the trim to midpoint and then adding throttle stick.
Merry Christmas all
John
PS. I've now got the training gear on it, but the behavior seems the same. I'm reluctant to take it off the ground until I understand this.
Another question. Do I set the throttle trim to midpoint all the time? I've been powering it up, moving the trim to midpoint and then adding throttle stick.
#1535
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From: Moss point,
MS
Brand new BCP owner here and just unpacked mine and have been trying the RADD lessons. I seem to be having trouble maneuvering this thing on the ground. It's not responsive to going right when it's light on the skids. The ailerons are definitely working, but it will only seem to skid left, back and forward. It looks as if it will tip over if I give it too much right aileron. I'm using a 1320 lipo pack and have turned the gain down as the tail was twitching when I installed this battery.
Merry Christmas all
John
PS. I've now got the training gear on it, but the behavior seems the same. I'm reluctant to take it off the ground until I understand this.
Another question. Do I set the throttle trim to midpoint all the time? I've been powering it up, moving the trim to midpoint and then adding throttle stick.
Merry Christmas all
John
PS. I've now got the training gear on it, but the behavior seems the same. I'm reluctant to take it off the ground until I understand this.
Another question. Do I set the throttle trim to midpoint all the time? I've been powering it up, moving the trim to midpoint and then adding throttle stick.
you can fly with the throttle trim all the way down all the time it is only really important in idle up to keep to pitch right. as far as the sliding around on the floor this can be attributed to rotor wash, this will effect you until you get 2 feet up or so. Rotor wash makes the heli move around alot. Once you learn to get it up a couple feet it will fly so much better. hope this helps.
#1536
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From: Moss point,
MS
1300 lipo's are cheaper with the same run time
The LiPo upgrade is the most important one you can make on this bird!!! Aerobatic upgrade and a 1320 Lipo gives me 17 minute flight times!!!
#1537
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From: Myakka City, FL
Thanks Redman.
Right now I'm practicing in the garage as it's windy and rainy outside. I'm leary of taking off without more space to recover in, or having a softer spot to crash ;-}
John
Right now I'm practicing in the garage as it's windy and rainy outside. I'm leary of taking off without more space to recover in, or having a softer spot to crash ;-}
John
#1541
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From: Myakka City, FL
Rotor wash makes the heli move around alot. Once you learn to get it up a couple feet it will fly so much better. hope this helps.
Thanks for helping this newbie. I have to leave now so won't be able to try anymore with the CP until later this evening.
John
#1542
i just opened my blade cp
i am tempted to fly it outside cause i dont think there is adequate room in my house
is it too cold (temps are in the 30s) to fly outdoors?
happy holidays
i am tempted to fly it outside cause i dont think there is adequate room in my house
is it too cold (temps are in the 30s) to fly outdoors?
happy holidays
#1543
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From: Moss point,
MS
So, I should just continue to power up right through the erratic behavior and get it into the air, ready to correct for the pull to the left?
Thanks for helping this newbie. I have to leave now so won't be able to try anymore with the CP until later this evening.
John
Thanks for helping this newbie. I have to leave now so won't be able to try anymore with the CP until later this evening.
John
#1544
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From: Portsmouth, NH,
jgutter,
I have a 3S 1200Mah and a 3S 850Mah and while the blade is much more responsive and fast with the 850 (less weight), my gain and mix settings are fine with both batteries. When I switched from NiMh to LiPo this morning, I only had to change the mix a bit, I left the gain alone. It seems to fly great with both batteries. The bird seems way more stable with the LiPo setup (I guess due to more head-speed).
Steve
I have a 3S 1200Mah and a 3S 850Mah and while the blade is much more responsive and fast with the 850 (less weight), my gain and mix settings are fine with both batteries. When I switched from NiMh to LiPo this morning, I only had to change the mix a bit, I left the gain alone. It seems to fly great with both batteries. The bird seems way more stable with the LiPo setup (I guess due to more head-speed).
Steve
#1545
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From: SCOTIA,
NY
ORIGINAL: twoviper8
i just opened my blade cp
i am tempted to fly it outside cause i dont think there is adequate room in my house
is it too cold (temps are in the 30s) to fly outdoors?
happy holidays
i just opened my blade cp
i am tempted to fly it outside cause i dont think there is adequate room in my house
is it too cold (temps are in the 30s) to fly outdoors?
happy holidays
Lipos do well in the cold as long as they are not directly in the prop wash such as profile style planes. I have even left my heli in my unheated garage for hours between flights in 23 degree weather. The first minute of hovering demonstrates reduced head speed then the battery warms a bit and, yes, you are flying. By the way i just got a 20 minute flight using 3s1320mah thund power battery using the 8t pinion motor. This is a great set-up for beginning heli pilots.
#1546
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From: , GA
Hello all:
Trying to get a new Blade CP running here and can't seem to figure out from the manual where the throttle stick is! All servos seem to be working but how to I get the blades running? The battery is connected and all wires are conned to the main gyro.
Thanks!
S
Trying to get a new Blade CP running here and can't seem to figure out from the manual where the throttle stick is! All servos seem to be working but how to I get the blades running? The battery is connected and all wires are conned to the main gyro.
Thanks!
S
#1547
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From: Olympia,
WA
poskashflo :
Read the first post on this page and that might help. You want to make sure that the 4-n-1 light turns to a solid green before moving the helicopter. The throttle is the left stick. Make sure that it is all the way down before connecting the battery. There are other posts on the page prior at the bottom that have great information also. See if that works for you.
Read the first post on this page and that might help. You want to make sure that the 4-n-1 light turns to a solid green before moving the helicopter. The throttle is the left stick. Make sure that it is all the way down before connecting the battery. There are other posts on the page prior at the bottom that have great information also. See if that works for you.
#1548
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From: winchendon,
MA
I have had my blade for a couple days now (early christmas ) from the wife I went thru all the training tips per everyones recomendations started with small hops to get it all dialed in everything went good it was nice and stable with good attitude. I recharged the battery and went out again today got it up about 3 to 5 feet hover making verry small corrections its attude was good and nice and stable then out of the blue it takes a vicious left and slams into the ice in my front yard on its side (no wind ) I shut everything down and took a good look at it and found the ball end on the blade grip broken off ( like it broke in flight looked like bad casting ) and a bent main shaft. DAMN IT everything else looks to be good though . does anyone think this ball end could have just broke in flight ?? I notice it isnt included in a crash kit like its not supposed to break this is verry strange to me as this is my first RC heli but other wise everything was going good Question do you think the cnc head is wirth it ?? probably wouldnt have this problem with that . well I off to the LHS tomorrow if its open to get parts and I wil try again any insite to this ?? Mike
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From: Myakka City, FL
stevennh
I ran through a charged stock battery this morning and then switched to the 1320 LiPo. The tail was twitching with the LiPo and reducing the gain fixed it. In reviewing the manual, I see that adjusting the proportional mix is required. I'll have to try that tomorrow
Thanks
I ran through a charged stock battery this morning and then switched to the 1320 LiPo. The tail was twitching with the LiPo and reducing the gain fixed it. In reviewing the manual, I see that adjusting the proportional mix is required. I'll have to try that tomorrow
Thanks



