E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
02-01-2006 | 11:42 PM
#2051
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From: Morghan Hill,
CA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
Hey guys,
I just got a Blade CP this last weekend from my dads friend who gave up on flying helis. He flies gliders and has over 3000+ hours on them and is a big fan of specking (the name explains it all, fly really high until it becomes a speck in the sky and fly until you get really nervious or your battery is getting low) but just couldnt get used to a heli. So now I have my XRB SR and a CP with about 5 flights on it and in very good condition except for a burnt tail motor and some chipped white paint or w/e it is from the blades, no big deal. My question is the tail motor casing which is then connected to the boom, is that CAed into place or is there an O ring of some sort that I have been hearing about? I wasnt too sure how it keeps the rotor straight because now i can turn it all the way around. The part # from the manual in the diagram is 061. Once I get a new tail motor in there I can begin to test out and adjust everything. All week I've been staring at it sitting on my shelf in my room just waiting to be able to fly it =)...I also want to know if it has the collective pitch glitch (easily fixxed)...Hoping to have enough time to head to my LHS on friday and get some parts...Thanks for whatever information that you can give me!
Mike
I just got a Blade CP this last weekend from my dads friend who gave up on flying helis. He flies gliders and has over 3000+ hours on them and is a big fan of specking (the name explains it all, fly really high until it becomes a speck in the sky and fly until you get really nervious or your battery is getting low) but just couldnt get used to a heli. So now I have my XRB SR and a CP with about 5 flights on it and in very good condition except for a burnt tail motor and some chipped white paint or w/e it is from the blades, no big deal. My question is the tail motor casing which is then connected to the boom, is that CAed into place or is there an O ring of some sort that I have been hearing about? I wasnt too sure how it keeps the rotor straight because now i can turn it all the way around. The part # from the manual in the diagram is 061. Once I get a new tail motor in there I can begin to test out and adjust everything. All week I've been staring at it sitting on my shelf in my room just waiting to be able to fly it =)...I also want to know if it has the collective pitch glitch (easily fixxed)...Hoping to have enough time to head to my LHS on friday and get some parts...Thanks for whatever information that you can give me!
Mike
02-02-2006 | 12:02 AM
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From: Sacramento,
CA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
02-02-2006 | 03:30 AM
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From: spring hill,
TN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
nice site ! although do you have anything about cnc alum swashplates ? Also maybe it was just me but i couldnt get the links on the left nav bar to work.
look forward to going through the site when it is not 1230 at night :P oppps waking up the wife ... gotta go !
look forward to going through the site when it is not 1230 at night :P oppps waking up the wife ... gotta go !
02-02-2006 | 08:29 AM
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From: Raleigh,
NC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: zooland1
Couldn't stand it any more. had to do the research. Yes!! You can fly the blade with a positive shift radio. You can use the 4-in-1 but have to remove the Rx half and replace the Rx with a positive shift. This basicly makes it a 3-in-1 which will handle the esc, motors and gyro. The add-on RX will handle the servos. If you're not comfortable with a soldering iron, don't attempt it. It requires opening the 4-in-1, removing the stock RX, and soldering in the positive shift RX. I did a search for "4-in-1 to positive shift" and it came up in another forum. The post didn't have any details, just said you can do it. The post was from an E-flight rep.
ORIGINAL: toprudder
The Spektrum radio operates on an entirely different frequency band, so the 4-1 reciever would be useless.
The Spektrum radio operates on an entirely different frequency band, so the 4-1 reciever would be useless.
That is good information, though. I like the idea of the Spektrum system, no glitches and no antenna coiled up around the skids.
02-02-2006 | 04:56 PM
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From: Savannah,
GA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: toprudder
Like I said, "the 4-1 receiver would be useless". The original question was if the stock Spektrum transmitter would work with the stock 4-1 receiver. Like you said, you have to cut out the receiver side of the 4-1, so it is not longer a "stock" 4-1.
That is good information, though. I like the idea of the Spektrum system, no glitches and no antenna coiled up around the skids.
Like I said, "the 4-1 receiver would be useless". The original question was if the stock Spektrum transmitter would work with the stock 4-1 receiver. Like you said, you have to cut out the receiver side of the 4-1, so it is not longer a "stock" 4-1.
That is good information, though. I like the idea of the Spektrum system, no glitches and no antenna coiled up around the skids.
wildjones--the O-rng I think you're talking about is the little piece of fuel tubing that holds the TR on. No o-rings on the motor. Just screw it in and resolder the wires and you should be good to go. You may have to reset the proportional on the 4-in-1. Try it and see if it tries to turn on you and then adjust accordingly if needed.
02-02-2006 | 05:22 PM
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From: Beaufort,
SC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
toprudder and zooland1,
You could just remove the rx and not cut the plastic- then stick new rx on top of existing 4in1 box. If you want to restore to original just remove extenders, plug old rx back in and screw the case back on.
You could just remove the rx and not cut the plastic- then stick new rx on top of existing 4in1 box. If you want to restore to original just remove extenders, plug old rx back in and screw the case back on.
02-02-2006 | 09:02 PM
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From: Savannah,
GA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: catfight
toprudder and zooland1,
You could just remove the rx and not cut the plastic- then stick new rx on top of existing 4in1 box. If you want to restore to original just remove extenders, plug old rx back in and screw the case back on.
toprudder and zooland1,
You could just remove the rx and not cut the plastic- then stick new rx on top of existing 4in1 box. If you want to restore to original just remove extenders, plug old rx back in and screw the case back on.
02-03-2006 | 03:48 AM
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From: spring hill,
TN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
Well i adjusted the servo throws on the swashplate one full turn to achive the proper distance 7/16th to comp for the thicker cnc alum swashplate. Now when the head is resting in the idle throtle all down stick the blades are at a serious - blade angle. I tried it anyways and the copter didnt even attempt to more off the ground. Should i adjust the angle of the blades as well a full turn also ? I am seriously lost here and ready to put back the stock swash if it wasnt for how dang smooth the copter is now with the new swash.
02-03-2006 | 09:41 AM
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From: TRF,
MN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
You have too much pitch.......You'll either need a pitch gauge to set it up right OR play around with the pitch (eyeball) until it looks like where it should be. I'm waiting on my pitch gauge and have only adjusted mine by sound and feel which I HATE doing. Here's what I do, unplug the main motor then power everything up and switch to idle-up, move the collective to 1/2 position and look at the blade pitch from the side. I then set the blade pitch by adjusting the linkage until it looks like zero pitch. Once you get that far move the collective all the way up and you should get +8 to +10 pitch, now move the collective all the way down and you should get -8 to -10 pitch. If you're in that range the heli should fly. Last thing to do is switch back to normal mode and move the stick all the way down. The pitch should look close to zero pitch, as you slowly raise the collective the pitch should increase to somewhere around +10.
Once the bird is hovering you can get a feel/sound of the heli by watching and listening. From there you can either slightly add/remove pitch by increasing/decreasing the pitch links until the desired head speed is reached.
BTW - I have a Eflite pitch gauge on order..........
Good Luck
Once the bird is hovering you can get a feel/sound of the heli by watching and listening. From there you can either slightly add/remove pitch by increasing/decreasing the pitch links until the desired head speed is reached.
BTW - I have a Eflite pitch gauge on order..........
Good Luck
02-03-2006 | 11:18 AM
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From: Savannah,
GA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: avalanche wolf
Well i adjusted the servo throws on the swashplate one full turn to achive the proper distance 7/16th to comp for the thicker cnc alum swashplate. Now when the head is resting in the idle throtle all down stick the blades are at a serious - blade angle. I tried it anyways and the copter didnt even attempt to more off the ground. Should i adjust the angle of the blades as well a full turn also ? I am seriously lost here and ready to put back the stock swash if it wasnt for how dang smooth the copter is now with the new swash.
Well i adjusted the servo throws on the swashplate one full turn to achive the proper distance 7/16th to comp for the thicker cnc alum swashplate. Now when the head is resting in the idle throtle all down stick the blades are at a serious - blade angle. I tried it anyways and the copter didnt even attempt to more off the ground. Should i adjust the angle of the blades as well a full turn also ? I am seriously lost here and ready to put back the stock swash if it wasnt for how dang smooth the copter is now with the new swash.
With the TX in normal mode, are the rotors at zero pitch with the throttle all the way down. Make sure the trim is down, too. You really don't need a pitch gauge on a micro. The tracking is key. Hold a piece of paper on the bottom edge of the blade and site to the flybar rod. If you have the sym or CF blades, you align by the center axis. Using the stock radio; when you raise the throttle (unplug the motors first) you can't really exceed 10 degrees, it's preprogrammed. Using a replacement TX it is possible to extend pitch beyond 10.
I made a pitch gauge from a cheap angle protractor from harbour freight. Got the idea from bladecprepair.com. It works pretty well but isn't really necessary as long as my tracking matches.
One more thing. Are you setting tracking at max throttle. Clamp a small board across the LG to a table and you can turn up the rotors and not worry. That's how I set mine and have had no trouble. Keep in mind though that if your main shaft is even slightly bent, it will vibrate a bit when clamped down. If it vibrates a lot, you may need to replace the shaft or spindle.
Just trying to hit everything I can think of off the top of my head.
02-03-2006 | 01:21 PM
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From: TRF,
MN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
I think pitch gauges are essential, even for the micro's. I prefer to KNOW where the pitch is supposed to be set and then I work from there. I like slightly less pitch for a higher head speed. I think I'm pretty close right now but I just like to KNOW.....
02-03-2006 | 01:34 PM
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From: Savannah,
GA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: 1LO64
I think pitch gauges are essential, even for the micro's. I prefer to KNOW where the pitch is supposed to be set and then I work from there. I like slightly less pitch for a higher head speed. I think I'm pretty close right now but I just like to KNOW.....
I think pitch gauges are essential, even for the micro's. I prefer to KNOW where the pitch is supposed to be set and then I work from there. I like slightly less pitch for a higher head speed. I think I'm pretty close right now but I just like to KNOW.....
02-03-2006 | 02:26 PM
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From: hutto,
TX
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
Does anybody here have the issue of their head speed suddenly slowing down then suddenly speeding up without much change in lift? I been having this issue and it seems that the collective pitch suddenly increases-motor slows down but the helicopter makes no sudden movements.
02-03-2006 | 02:43 PM
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From: spring hill,
TN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: zooland1
Something is really wierd with what's happening to you. Sure you bought the swash for the blade? With the TX in normal mode, are the rotors at zero pitch with the throttle all the way down. Make sure the trim is down, too. You really don't need a pitch gauge on a micro.
The tracking is key. Hold a piece of paper on the bottom edge of the blade and site to the flybar rod. If you have the sym or CF blades, you align by the center axis. Using the stock radio; when you raise the throttle (unplug the motors first) you can't really exceed 10 degrees, it's preprogrammed. Using a replacement TX it is possible to extend pitch beyond 10.
I made a pitch gauge from a cheap angle protractor from harbour freight. Got the idea from bladecprepair.com. It works pretty well but isn't really necessary as long as my tracking matches.
One more thing. Are you setting tracking at max throttle. Clamp a small board across the LG to a table and you can turn up the rotors and not worry. That's how I set mine and have had no trouble. Keep in mind though that if your main shaft is even slightly bent, it will vibrate a bit when clamped down. If it vibrates a lot, you may need to replace the shaft or spindle.
Just trying to hit everything I can think of off the top of my head.
Something is really wierd with what's happening to you. Sure you bought the swash for the blade?
With the TX in normal mode, are the rotors at zero pitch with the throttle all the way down. Make sure the trim is down, too. You really don't need a pitch gauge on a micro. The tracking is key. Hold a piece of paper on the bottom edge of the blade and site to the flybar rod. If you have the sym or CF blades, you align by the center axis. Using the stock radio; when you raise the throttle (unplug the motors first) you can't really exceed 10 degrees, it's preprogrammed. Using a replacement TX it is possible to extend pitch beyond 10.
I made a pitch gauge from a cheap angle protractor from harbour freight. Got the idea from bladecprepair.com. It works pretty well but isn't really necessary as long as my tracking matches.
One more thing. Are you setting tracking at max throttle. Clamp a small board across the LG to a table and you can turn up the rotors and not worry. That's how I set mine and have had no trouble. Keep in mind though that if your main shaft is even slightly bent, it will vibrate a bit when clamped down. If it vibrates a lot, you may need to replace the shaft or spindle.
Just trying to hit everything I can think of off the top of my head.
I will try to adjust the pitch on the blades and check it out . I know my LHS has a micro pitch guage , might see about picking it up. Off I go !
02-03-2006 | 02:49 PM
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From: Savannah,
GA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: duaneh1
Does anybody here have the issue of their head speed suddenly slowing down then suddenly speeding up without much change in lift? I been having this issue and it seems that the collective pitch suddenly increases-motor slows down but the helicopter makes no sudden movements.
Does anybody here have the issue of their head speed suddenly slowing down then suddenly speeding up without much change in lift? I been having this issue and it seems that the collective pitch suddenly increases-motor slows down but the helicopter makes no sudden movements.
Are you flying indoors or out? A gust of wind can make a difference in restance. If you're indoors, maybe the dog farted!! Also a change in direction causing the TR to kick in can vary the juice to the main. Sounds like it doesn't seem to be a problem since it's not affecting flight. Make sure you have good connections on your motors to the 4-in-1.
02-03-2006 | 02:52 PM
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From: Savannah,
GA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: avalanche wolf
I will try to adjust the pitch on the blades and check it out . I know my LHS has a micro pitch guage , might see about picking it up. Off I go !
I will try to adjust the pitch on the blades and check it out . I know my LHS has a micro pitch guage , might see about picking it up. Off I go !
02-03-2006 | 02:53 PM
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From: TRF,
MN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: zooland1
Yeah, but your the only person i know has to have a pitch gauge on your car
ORIGINAL: 1LO64
I think pitch gauges are essential, even for the micro's. I prefer to KNOW where the pitch is supposed to be set and then I work from there. I like slightly less pitch for a higher head speed. I think I'm pretty close right now but I just like to KNOW.....
I think pitch gauges are essential, even for the micro's. I prefer to KNOW where the pitch is supposed to be set and then I work from there. I like slightly less pitch for a higher head speed. I think I'm pretty close right now but I just like to KNOW.....
hahaha.....point taken
02-03-2006 | 03:23 PM
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From: spring hill,
TN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
Ok figured looking at pics will help the situation as well
Ok i took the head back off and comfirmed in the idle up mode / power off the swashplate is sitting at exactly 7/16 from the top of the swash to the top of the drive shaft and the plate is 100' level. I also confirmed all 4 of the pitch mounts are the same lenght.
20 ,21,22 are in normal mode ( The first 3)
23 and 24 are in idle up mode ( last 2 )
Ok i took the head back off and comfirmed in the idle up mode / power off the swashplate is sitting at exactly 7/16 from the top of the swash to the top of the drive shaft and the plate is 100' level. I also confirmed all 4 of the pitch mounts are the same lenght.
20 ,21,22 are in normal mode ( The first 3)
23 and 24 are in idle up mode ( last 2 )
02-03-2006 | 03:46 PM
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From: TRF,
MN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
You need MORE pitch then........Pic1 shows full collective, meaning that the blades should be at +10. I don't see one of your pics that have positive pitch......that's your problem.
If you were to fire up the heli right now the force of the blades are PUSHING the heli down which is good for inverted flight
If you were to fire up the heli right now the force of the blades are PUSHING the heli down which is good for inverted flight
02-03-2006 | 03:53 PM
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From: Beaufort,
SC
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
avalanche wolf,
Post more photos of linkage detail. There should be lots more travel in the idle-up mode from stick down to stick up - these 2 photos show a lot less than I have seen before (there should be 20 degrees difference). How do you have the switches set on the front of the tx?
Post more photos of linkage detail. There should be lots more travel in the idle-up mode from stick down to stick up - these 2 photos show a lot less than I have seen before (there should be 20 degrees difference). How do you have the switches set on the front of the tx?
02-03-2006 | 04:15 PM
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From: hutto,
TX
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: zooland1
Autopilot? Are you flying indoors or out? A gust of wind can make a difference in restance. If you're indoors, maybe the dog farted!! Also a change in direction causing the TR to kick in can vary the juice to the main. Sounds like it doesn't seem to be a problem since it's not affecting flight. Make sure you have good connections on your motors to the 4-in-1.
ORIGINAL: duaneh1
Does anybody here have the issue of their head speed suddenly slowing down then suddenly speeding up without much change in lift? I been having this issue and it seems that the collective pitch suddenly increases-motor slows down but the helicopter makes no sudden movements.
Does anybody here have the issue of their head speed suddenly slowing down then suddenly speeding up without much change in lift? I been having this issue and it seems that the collective pitch suddenly increases-motor slows down but the helicopter makes no sudden movements.
Are you flying indoors or out? A gust of wind can make a difference in restance. If you're indoors, maybe the dog farted!! Also a change in direction causing the TR to kick in can vary the juice to the main. Sounds like it doesn't seem to be a problem since it's not affecting flight. Make sure you have good connections on your motors to the 4-in-1.
I'm indoors, no wind, I take off, head and motor speed high, everything working smoothly, suddenly motor speed drops, like changing gears, pitch apparently increased since the heli maintains its altitude, head speed slow, cyclic is suddenly sluggish. Very weird-like the throttle/pitch curve suddenly changed.
02-03-2006 | 04:29 PM
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From: Nea Smirni, GREECE
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: avalanche wolf
Ok figured looking at pics will help the situation as well
Ok i took the head back off and comfirmed in the idle up mode / power off the swashplate is sitting at exactly 7/16 from the top of the swash to the top of the drive shaft and the plate is 100' level. I also confirmed all 4 of the pitch mounts are the same lenght.
20 ,21,22 are in normal mode ( The first 3)
23 and 24 are in idle up mode ( last 2 )
Ok figured looking at pics will help the situation as well
Ok i took the head back off and comfirmed in the idle up mode / power off the swashplate is sitting at exactly 7/16 from the top of the swash to the top of the drive shaft and the plate is 100' level. I also confirmed all 4 of the pitch mounts are the same lenght.
20 ,21,22 are in normal mode ( The first 3)
23 and 24 are in idle up mode ( last 2 )
02-03-2006 | 04:39 PM
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From: spring hill,
TN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: catfight
avalanche wolf,
Post more photos of linkage detail. There should be lots more travel in the idle-up mode from stick down to stick up - these 2 photos show a lot less than I have seen before (there should be 20 degrees difference). How do you have the switches set on the front of the tx?
avalanche wolf,
Post more photos of linkage detail. There should be lots more travel in the idle-up mode from stick down to stick up - these 2 photos show a lot less than I have seen before (there should be 20 degrees difference). How do you have the switches set on the front of the tx?
next 3 are in normal mode
If this is not what you ment tell me where to point the camera and will be happy to take more pics.
02-03-2006 | 04:44 PM
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From: Savannah,
GA
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
ORIGINAL: duaneh1
I'm indoors, no wind, I take off, head and motor speed high, everything working smoothly, suddenly motor speed drops, like changing gears, pitch apparently increased since the heli maintains its altitude, head speed slow, cyclic is suddenly sluggish. Very weird-like the throttle/pitch curve suddenly changed.
I'm indoors, no wind, I take off, head and motor speed high, everything working smoothly, suddenly motor speed drops, like changing gears, pitch apparently increased since the heli maintains its altitude, head speed slow, cyclic is suddenly sluggish. Very weird-like the throttle/pitch curve suddenly changed.
You guys are really making me pick my brain today and there ain't much there to pick.
By the way Avalanche, I hope you meant 100% level, not 100'. I concur (like that word?) with the other guys. You don't have near enough movement.
May be a problem with the RX.
02-03-2006 | 04:50 PM
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From: spring hill,
TN
RE: E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
I am going to put it back to stock and see if I have the same problem. The only thing i have done to it is add the heatsinks swashplate and turn the control link 1 full turn.
