Two of them are a little further from the shaft than the other two. Use the two that are closer to the shaft. The others are supposed to give quicker cyclic response.

On the alum swash they're all the same so you can use two opposing sides. The other two are for upgrading to bell-hiller.

newbie question. i've had a honeybee cp2 for about a month now and it's my first heli. my question is regarding the blade tracking. if i make adjustments to the pitch turnbuckles to allow the blades to track better, wouldn't that cause changes (and disturb) to my blade angle of attack. are there any other sources of blade mis-tracking that i can take a look at before i mess with the pitch turnbuckles? the manual was written in HK and is very bare bones. thanks.

rismoflip try this link [link=http://www.lenlutz.com/pages/blade_tuning.html]http://www.lenlutz.com/pages/blade_tuning.html [/link]

I'm having an issue that when flying my Blade-CP in hover, it will start bobbing the nose up and down. Everything is tracking right on, and it does not vibrate. I have the 3 bearing grips, so they are not sticky. Any ideas? Thanks.

Remove the radio's friction inducing device for the left gimble (collective) and fly more.

It's not an issue with rough collective usage. The heli will be in a stable hover, then it will start to bob (looks like an exited dolphin nodding yes!). Only lasts for 1 - 2 seconds, then settles down, with no action by me.

Bdavidson,

I've read through the first 47 pages of posts, and got to your 9c setup. I just ordered the blade airframe and a 7ch (heli model) Futaba. Are you using the original 4&1?

this can also be found at:
http://bladecp.lenshouse.net

Like many others here..I am new. However I was able to obtain addequate hover at about 3 battery charges. Not to bad, I thought at first. Then I switched to the arobatic and I have not been able to keep my tail tracking consistantly. No matter how I adjust the proportioning or the trim on the tx, I still have to give it significant rudder. I did make the mistake of trying to track my main rotor blades while holding it, and I fear that maybe I toasted the 4-in-1?? Does anybody know if that would be my issue?? Any ideas of what to do? (I am using TP 1350ma lipo with the arobatic kit)

mtoomey31,

I trust you were wearing safety glasses while holding that thing :0) Which way does the heli spin L/R? A common cause of this is when you switch blades from asym to symetrical you have to readjust the pitch links to get more lift (2 or 3 turns to lengthen link)- did you try that? If you adjusted then maybe too much - depends on how you adjusted the propo and whether you changed lengths as to which direction it turns. Rotor torque changes when the headspeed changes, more headspped = more torque.

Good luck!

Sorry to say bdavison hasn't been with us for a while now. However, yes, that was the original 4-in-1. Take note that the 9c and 7c are different radios. Keep reading and you'll hit the 7c settings. Sorry again, I can't remember what page, maybe around the mid sixties. My advise if you're just buying the frame and want to go seperates, now is the time to do it. You'll need two esc's and a gyro to go brushless anyway. The blade is a very capable heli with the 4-in-1 if you're planning on using the brushed system. We'll be glad to help any way we can once you get your blade. Most of us are using the brushed system with the stock set-up. A lot of us are modding other areas like the swash and DD tail. And quite a few of us have futaba radios. Good luck.

The sticky collective isn't necessarily limited to the grips. Put a little light oil on your shaft. Your swash might be getting slightly hung up. and see how tight the links are. They should be loose but not pop off on their own.

Thanks zooland1.

I ordered a HH 2&1 esc/mixer and the GWS ps01? gyro. Also already have some hs-55 servos. I'm ordering the Futaba 7CH heli TX and a receiver today. I think that should do it and make it flyable. Do you see any parts that i'm missing?

crashn_bernstein

Hello all,
I am wondering? Back on page 68 someone asked about using the Spectrum transmitter with the Blade CP and I could not find an answer to that question. Does anyone know if this can be done with the stock 4 in 1 receiver. I saw a segment on Inside RC that a guy was using a JR transmitter with the stock receiver modified and a couple of servo extensions. Does anyone know how this was done? My local hobby shop has no idea how to do it.

crash-you will still need a separate esc for the motor. The 2-in-1 is for using a brushed TR with a brushless main motor and separate gyro. Hopefully you thought to order a single conversion crystal for the blade. Your TX will likely come with a dual conversion which won't work in the 2-in-1. I didn't think of it either and my LHS doesn't carry singles. So I had to wait for a separate ordered crystal before I could use the radio. That is unless you really thought ahead and ordered the TX in the same channel as your bird and that way it "will" work.


Hondulan-I know, I read the same thing you did about converting the RX to positive shift. I have no idea where I read it. I suggest doing a specific search in google for "converting e-flight 4-in-1 to JR" or something like that. Keep trying different searches and you should hit it somewhere. It seems to me you had to hack into the electronics and jumper something. Sorry, I have futaba so I didn't persue it, just remember reading it.

The Spektrum radio operates on an entirely different frequency band, so the 4-1 reciever would be useless.

I saw that on Inside RC. He mated the JR receiver to the 4in1 with two servo extension harness's. I'm sure if you contact Inside RC they could send you in the right direction. He was using the speed controller and gyro in the 4in1. Keep us posted.

zooland1 - hmm. I got the 2&1 today, and the motor connectors are both 2 wire. Does that indicate that it will only control brushed motors? pretty new to this, i thought brushless had 3 wires?

I bought just the airframe, absolutely no electrics with it. So i am planning on using a berg receiver with the new Futaba 7ch

crashn_

Couldn't stand it any more. had to do the research. Yes!! You can fly the blade with a positive shift radio. You can use the 4-in-1 but have to remove the Rx half and replace the Rx with a positive shift. This basicly makes it a 3-in-1 which will handle the esc, motors and gyro. The add-on RX will handle the servos. If you're not comfortable with a soldering iron, don't attempt it. It requires opening the 4-in-1, removing the stock RX, and soldering in the positive shift RX. I did a search for "4-in-1 to positive shift" and it came up in another forum. The post didn't have any details, just said you can do it. The post was from an E-flight rep.

You can use the 2-in-1 to switch over to a regular radio and use the brushed motors. You will need to have a receiver and a separate gyro to accomplish this. This is not a bad thing though as the gyro in the 4-in-1 is barely adequate.

If you want to go brushless then you will need a separate esc for the main motor. You can do this easily by connecting the brushless esc to the throttle connection on your receiver, connect the main now brushless motor to that esc, connect your gyro to the receivers rudder output, connect the tail motor input on the 2-in-1 to the gyro, connect the tail motor to the tail output on the 2-in-1, this will give you a brushless main and proportional control of the tail motor.

The other servos are hooked up normally.

cool. when my radio comes in and i set it up, i will post a wiring diagram.

thanks all for the help

So if i am understanding this right. I own a Eclipse 7 transmiter which you can change the shift from + to - and viceversa . Does this mean I just need a set of crystals and i can use the eclipse transmitter ?

toprudder,

I actually did this using the DX6 radio system -fairly simple. You remove the rx from the 4in1, using sidecutters you remove the plastic casing that the rx mounted in- leaving the new 3in1. You buy 2 each 3" JR servo extensions (1 end male 1 end female) then remove the outer sheilding plastic from the male connectors (so they fit in the female conectors side-by-side) and plug into the 4in1 ( channel 3 and 4 for throttle and rudder so 3in1 can mix with gyro, etc). Thiat is it. It works great! The DX6 rx is 7 gms but nice and small sized- just stickypad to the side and wire up L0)

Good luck!

Set the Eclipse on negative, put a matching single coversion CX in the blade and set up your radio. Fly on.