E-FLIGHT BLADE CP
#2001
speedsport- if you've been flying the pico you shouldn't have any trouble with the blade. You need to get it in the air to gain control. Since it's not fixed pitch it reacts a little differently in the ground wash. I had trouble with mine expecting it to be the same as the pico until I accidently got it about two feet up, then it flew like a dream. As far as the head speed at full throttle, it sounds like your blades have too much positive pitch. If you exceed 10 degrees pitch the blades kind of turn into paddles and just beat the air. Have you checked the tracking? This also will cause the same reaction. The blades basicly slice the air to relieve the pressure for the oncoming blade (or something like that). Anyway, if they're not tracking properly they create individual air flow and just conflict with each other.
#2002
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From: w,
NJ
Anyone have any info on the bell-hiller head from e flight? I just snaped the ball linkage from my flybar cage and thought it would be a good time to switch to the honey bee cp2 head. But if the e-flight mixer arm will be out soon i will probally just wait. Any thoughts on what i should do? What parts would i need to do the e-sky conversion>?
Woody
Woody
#2003

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From: Salem,
WV
Hey
How are you guys doing. When i got my blade it was already built like it comes out of the box. Does anybody know a way to replace the tail boom rod. Do you have to dissaemble the whole tail rotor section or how does it go on. Thankfully i have the training gear on so I have not done too much damage when i have attempted to hover. It is typical whenever it tips on it side for the main rotor blades to fold in. Another thing i was having a problem with is if the heli is not on a perfectly flat surface the tail rotor will catch and i have to play with it to get it to spin up. Is this stuff typical of helis or is it just me. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Scott
How are you guys doing. When i got my blade it was already built like it comes out of the box. Does anybody know a way to replace the tail boom rod. Do you have to dissaemble the whole tail rotor section or how does it go on. Thankfully i have the training gear on so I have not done too much damage when i have attempted to hover. It is typical whenever it tips on it side for the main rotor blades to fold in. Another thing i was having a problem with is if the heli is not on a perfectly flat surface the tail rotor will catch and i have to play with it to get it to spin up. Is this stuff typical of helis or is it just me. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Scott
#2004
ORIGINAL: wdps34
Anyone have any info on the bell-hiller head from e flight? I just snaped the ball linkage from my flybar cage and thought it would be a good time to switch to the honey bee cp2 head. But if the e-flight mixer arm will be out soon i will probally just wait. Any thoughts on what i should do? What parts would i need to do the e-sky conversion>?
Woody
Anyone have any info on the bell-hiller head from e flight? I just snaped the ball linkage from my flybar cage and thought it would be a good time to switch to the honey bee cp2 head. But if the e-flight mixer arm will be out soon i will probally just wait. Any thoughts on what i should do? What parts would i need to do the e-sky conversion>?
Woody
baddley--the tail boom is pretty difficult to get the CA to release. Some have been lucky enough to put debonder on the joint for about 15 minutes and gently wiggle it and it came free. The biggest problem is the debonder if spread too freely can melt the insulation on the tail motor lead. My lead was CA'd in the boom anyway. You will have to desolder your tail motor and, upon replacing the boom, feed the wire through the new boom back to the motor. Of course if you don't replace the motor mount, you'll have to debond that too. Good opportunity to upgrade to the direct drive tail.
#2005
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From: , CT
Have been flying the blade CP now (couple of weeks) and want to know any easy methods for flying it nose in during a hover? Flys great and takes a rough landing pretty well. I broke the tail rod for ground clearance, but was able to drill a small hole just before the wires and installed a 4-40 threaed rod into the boom. This takes a much better hit with it just bending and nor breaking.
#2006
ORIGINAL: batfalcon
The Super Skids come as they are seen on video. With the tail support, with the horizontal fin, with the antenna tube, with ALL the necessary screws to fit on your heli. They test fit them before they send them just to be sure there is not any problem what so ever.
They do come on several supports though, so you have to PM "GTX SlotCar" to give you all the details. Take 1 or 2 photos of your frame showing exactly the spot where the skids connect with the main frame and send them along.
ORIGINAL: lenl
ORIGINAL: batfalcon
Guys I have made some VIDEOS with my new Super Skids on I I like to share them with you.
They make the heli very steady, very durable and IMHO it's a must upgrade. Carefull about the firm. They seam to be more than one imitations. THIS IS THE REAL SUFF. Enjoy !!!
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/4815658233417766/super_skids_short_version_1_1/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/4815658233417766/super_skids_short_version_1_1/[/link]
Does it come with the Tail Boom Support ????
Does it fit the blade ?????
If so, i care not what it cost, please tell me where i can get it....
Id sure lie to install it BEFORE i spend the rest of the weekend rebuilding again, due to the part holding the tail boom, having cracked once again
(the entire main frame, that is)
(im not blaming the blade..... i know its my stinky attempts at flying)
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/7650995273418306/super_skids_short_version_1_2/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/7650995273418306/super_skids_short_version_1_2/[/link]
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/5379179973452966/super_skids_short_version_1_3a/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/5379179973452966/super_skids_short_version_1_3a/[/link]
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/8941880863453266/super_skids_short_version_1_3b/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/8941880863453266/super_skids_short_version_1_3b/[/link]
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/4879511203453806/super_skids_short_version_1_3c/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/4879511203453806/super_skids_short_version_1_3c/[/link]
Guys I have made some VIDEOS with my new Super Skids on I I like to share them with you.
They make the heli very steady, very durable and IMHO it's a must upgrade. Carefull about the firm. They seam to be more than one imitations. THIS IS THE REAL SUFF. Enjoy !!!
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/4815658233417766/super_skids_short_version_1_1/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/4815658233417766/super_skids_short_version_1_1/[/link]
Does it come with the Tail Boom Support ????
Does it fit the blade ?????
If so, i care not what it cost, please tell me where i can get it....
Id sure lie to install it BEFORE i spend the rest of the weekend rebuilding again, due to the part holding the tail boom, having cracked once again
(the entire main frame, that is)
(im not blaming the blade..... i know its my stinky attempts at flying)
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/7650995273418306/super_skids_short_version_1_2/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/7650995273418306/super_skids_short_version_1_2/[/link]
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/5379179973452966/super_skids_short_version_1_3a/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/5379179973452966/super_skids_short_version_1_3a/[/link]
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/8941880863453266/super_skids_short_version_1_3b/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/8941880863453266/super_skids_short_version_1_3b/[/link]
[link=http://www.zippyvideos.com/4879511203453806/super_skids_short_version_1_3c/]http://www.zippyvideos.com/4879511203453806/super_skids_short_version_1_3c/[/link]
They do come on several supports though, so you have to PM "GTX SlotCar" to give you all the details. Take 1 or 2 photos of your frame showing exactly the spot where the skids connect with the main frame and send them along.
[link]http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_65&products_id=846[/link]
#2007
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From: Norman,
OK
Okay Im sure this is in here somewhere, but after two days Im only into this thread for 30 pages. However I have a CP all stock, I have flown it (crashed it) about 5 times. However today, after dropping a chunk of change today , I cant get the 4 - 1 to arm. I have all the settings correct, the idle switch back, tx turned on first, and throttle down. However when I plug it into my stock battery I get blinking red lights, then red and green blinking. Could this be a busted 4 - 1, or is it something else. Thanks
Problem fixed, the crystals needed to be reseated
Problem fixed, the crystals needed to be reseated
#2008
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From: Nea Smirni, GREECE
Guys I need your help on this one.
Some days ago I wrote you about a problem I am facing with the swash plate's travel. On these 2 videos you can watch the travel in both modes.
The problem is that if a set up the pitch to be 0 at middle stick and 3D on, then the heli won't leave the ground. If I add pitch, as I did, it flies ok, but it's impossible to have negative pitch
I need you to watch closely those travel distances of mine ,compare with the ones on your helis and tell me if mine are correct or less.
The first is a close up of the swash plate at Normal mode (not 3D).
http://www.zippyvideos.com/211581371...ve_pitch_0001/
The second is the same at 3D mode.
http://www.zippyvideos.com/144172455...ve_pitch_0002/
And it flies like this
http://www.zippyvideos.com/487951120..._version_1_3c/
Some days ago I wrote you about a problem I am facing with the swash plate's travel. On these 2 videos you can watch the travel in both modes.
The problem is that if a set up the pitch to be 0 at middle stick and 3D on, then the heli won't leave the ground. If I add pitch, as I did, it flies ok, but it's impossible to have negative pitch
I need you to watch closely those travel distances of mine ,compare with the ones on your helis and tell me if mine are correct or less.
The first is a close up of the swash plate at Normal mode (not 3D).
http://www.zippyvideos.com/211581371...ve_pitch_0001/
The second is the same at 3D mode.
http://www.zippyvideos.com/144172455...ve_pitch_0002/
And it flies like this
http://www.zippyvideos.com/487951120..._version_1_3c/
#2009
Swash travel looks to be about the same as mine. Your head speed looks really low though. What battery are you using. I am using 2s 1320 lipos and don't have any trouble. I changed to an 11t pinion last week and my head speed was actually too high. I had to go back to the 10t. I just got my 3s 1300's this week so will likely goto 8 or 9t with those and retire the 2s to my pico and planes. I never flew mine with a stock battery, just the lipos. Yours looks to be flying like mine does when the batteries get low. Maybe you could try the 11t pinion. I'd gladly send you mine, but the other reason I went back to the 10t was the 11t decided it wanted to fly on its own and hide in the grass, sorry. Just guesses on my part.
#2010
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From: Nea Smirni, GREECE
ORIGINAL: zooland1
The mixer arm from e-flight is a bell mixer, not bell-hiller. The CP2 parts are bell-hiller. Parts list is back two or three pages. I just got the CP2 parts but haven't tried them yet. Futura has them and loves it. He's the reason I ordered them. Since the blade comes stock with a hiller head maybe the upgrade makes it full bell-hiller, don't know. I haven't read anything anywhere about anybody who tried the bell grips. They've been available for quite a while, just not under the e-flight name.
The mixer arm from e-flight is a bell mixer, not bell-hiller. The CP2 parts are bell-hiller. Parts list is back two or three pages. I just got the CP2 parts but haven't tried them yet. Futura has them and loves it. He's the reason I ordered them. Since the blade comes stock with a hiller head maybe the upgrade makes it full bell-hiller, don't know. I haven't read anything anywhere about anybody who tried the bell grips. They've been available for quite a while, just not under the e-flight name.

And now to the bell/hiller mix. From the videos I posted, what do you range my upgrade. Bell mixer or Bell hiller? I don't exactly know either the difference or where the names come from.
BTW, Where can I find an 11T pinion? Is anyone here that has one for spare, and willing to send it over Greece?
#2011
Do a google search for "ehbg-16-pdf". It's a write up on helicopter set-ups and in the article has a very detailed description of the difference in Bell, Hiller, and Bell-Hiller and what each does. Also has some very good info on set-up and flight characteristics.
If you're interested in the HB CP2 set-up, Heli-hobby notified me today that they have them in stock now. Don't know for how long though. I already got mine from Heli-fever so I won't need theirs. Just haven't put it on yet. While we're at it, Heli-world has 3s lipos for 20.00 and a shaft and auto rotation gear mod that will fit the blade. Much stronger shaft and you don't have to dismantle your whole bird to change the gear, if you do happen to bend it. Haven't installed those yet either because I haven't had too much time to fly lately and if you don't fly you don't crash. So maybe I should change my slogan to "I don't have time to fly, so maybe I'm not" (or someting like that). Please note that I'm not advertising for these companies, I just like to pass on good mods I locate to my fellow fliers.
You should be able to get the 11t from heli-hobby or any place that sells electric motors. I personally found the 11t to be way too high in head speed and lost some control. Although the reason I got it was because Horizon recommended it if you use 2s lipos.
If you're interested in the HB CP2 set-up, Heli-hobby notified me today that they have them in stock now. Don't know for how long though. I already got mine from Heli-fever so I won't need theirs. Just haven't put it on yet. While we're at it, Heli-world has 3s lipos for 20.00 and a shaft and auto rotation gear mod that will fit the blade. Much stronger shaft and you don't have to dismantle your whole bird to change the gear, if you do happen to bend it. Haven't installed those yet either because I haven't had too much time to fly lately and if you don't fly you don't crash. So maybe I should change my slogan to "I don't have time to fly, so maybe I'm not" (or someting like that). Please note that I'm not advertising for these companies, I just like to pass on good mods I locate to my fellow fliers.
You should be able to get the 11t from heli-hobby or any place that sells electric motors. I personally found the 11t to be way too high in head speed and lost some control. Although the reason I got it was because Horizon recommended it if you use 2s lipos.
#2012

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From: Salem,
WV
Hey
How are you guys doing. Does anybody know of a better way to secure the tail rotor blade to shaft then besides the fuel tubing. Iam having trouble with my tail rotor blade coming loose and vibrarting. Also is it typical for the tail rotor blades to fold in when it crashes or do they normally break off.
Thanks Scott
How are you guys doing. Does anybody know of a better way to secure the tail rotor blade to shaft then besides the fuel tubing. Iam having trouble with my tail rotor blade coming loose and vibrarting. Also is it typical for the tail rotor blades to fold in when it crashes or do they normally break off.
Thanks Scott
#2014
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From: TRF,
MN
ORIGINAL: iheartfood
Okay Im sure this is in here somewhere, but after two days Im only into this thread for 30 pages. However I have a CP all stock, I have flown it (crashed it) about 5 times. However today, after dropping a chunk of change today , I cant get the 4 - 1 to arm. I have all the settings correct, the idle switch back, tx turned on first, and throttle down. However when I plug it into my stock battery I get blinking red lights, then red and green blinking. Could this be a busted 4 - 1, or is it something else. Thanks
Okay Im sure this is in here somewhere, but after two days Im only into this thread for 30 pages. However I have a CP all stock, I have flown it (crashed it) about 5 times. However today, after dropping a chunk of change today , I cant get the 4 - 1 to arm. I have all the settings correct, the idle switch back, tx turned on first, and throttle down. However when I plug it into my stock battery I get blinking red lights, then red and green blinking. Could this be a busted 4 - 1, or is it something else. Thanks
I had the same problem, then I replaced both crystals and all was fixed!!
#2015
ORIGINAL: baddley
Hey
How are you guys doing. Does anybody know of a better way to secure the tail rotor blade to shaft then besides the fuel tubing. Iam having trouble with my tail rotor blade coming loose and vibrarting. Also is it typical for the tail rotor blades to fold in when it crashes or do they normally break off.
Thanks Scott
Hey
How are you guys doing. Does anybody know of a better way to secure the tail rotor blade to shaft then besides the fuel tubing. Iam having trouble with my tail rotor blade coming loose and vibrarting. Also is it typical for the tail rotor blades to fold in when it crashes or do they normally break off.
Thanks Scott
#2016
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From: RIVERVIEW,
FL
I am interested in some info concerning the NEW Blade, 4 in 1 according to Horizon is smoke colored.
I have the CP Blade right now, with the older 4 in 1 solid black colored. I have read in some threads, that it has a better gyro, and fixes radio glitches. Also does it hold the tail more stable? Does anyone have any input. Before spending the $70.00 I would be interested in what someone might have to say concerning this.
Thanks
I have the CP Blade right now, with the older 4 in 1 solid black colored. I have read in some threads, that it has a better gyro, and fixes radio glitches. Also does it hold the tail more stable? Does anyone have any input. Before spending the $70.00 I would be interested in what someone might have to say concerning this.
Thanks
#2017
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From: spring hill,
TN
Wel I have a new problem now.
I got my new parts in the mail today [ cnc alum swashplate , and main rotor / tail heat sinks ]
Problem I am having now is the amount of power that is needed to lift off. I am at full power and 1/2 power on the trim and i am only about 2 inches off the ground. Also now the helo jerks up and down like a sticky colective ( checking to see if everything is installed correctly. )
Any ideas ???
I got my new parts in the mail today [ cnc alum swashplate , and main rotor / tail heat sinks ]
Problem I am having now is the amount of power that is needed to lift off. I am at full power and 1/2 power on the trim and i am only about 2 inches off the ground. Also now the helo jerks up and down like a sticky colective ( checking to see if everything is installed correctly. )
Any ideas ???
#2018
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From: , MI
ORIGINAL: Billsgirl
I am interested in some info concerning the NEW Blade, 4 in 1 according to Horizon is smoke colored.
I have the CP Blade right now, with the older 4 in 1 solid black colored. I have read in some threads, that it has a better gyro, and fixes radio glitches. Also does it hold the tail more stable? Does anyone have any input. Before spending the $70.00 I would be interested in what someone might have to say concerning this.
Thanks
I am interested in some info concerning the NEW Blade, 4 in 1 according to Horizon is smoke colored.
I have the CP Blade right now, with the older 4 in 1 solid black colored. I have read in some threads, that it has a better gyro, and fixes radio glitches. Also does it hold the tail more stable? Does anyone have any input. Before spending the $70.00 I would be interested in what someone might have to say concerning this.
Thanks
#2019
ORIGINAL: avalanche wolf
Wel I have a new problem now.
I got my new parts in the mail today [ cnc alum swashplate , and main rotor / tail heat sinks ]
Problem I am having now is the amount of power that is needed to lift off. I am at full power and 1/2 power on the trim and i am only about 2 inches off the ground. Also now the helo jerks up and down like a sticky colective ( checking to see if everything is installed correctly. )
Any ideas ???
Wel I have a new problem now.
I got my new parts in the mail today [ cnc alum swashplate , and main rotor / tail heat sinks ]
Problem I am having now is the amount of power that is needed to lift off. I am at full power and 1/2 power on the trim and i am only about 2 inches off the ground. Also now the helo jerks up and down like a sticky colective ( checking to see if everything is installed correctly. )
Any ideas ???
http://www.lenlutz.com/pages/blade_tuning.html
Hope this helps, the above link helped me get things tuned after I rebuilt everything after a serious crunch....
Doug
#2020
ORIGINAL: avalanche wolf
Problem I am having now is the amount of power that is needed to lift off. I am at full power and 1/2 power on the trim and i am only about 2 inches off the ground. Also now the helo jerks up and down like a sticky colective ( checking to see if everything is installed correctly. )
Any ideas ???
Problem I am having now is the amount of power that is needed to lift off. I am at full power and 1/2 power on the trim and i am only about 2 inches off the ground. Also now the helo jerks up and down like a sticky colective ( checking to see if everything is installed correctly. )
Any ideas ???
#2022
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From: spring hill,
TN
ORIGINAL: djdavidcp
It sounds like you positioned the swashplate too high and have less positive pitch than you had with the original swashplate. With the throttle stick all the way down, the blades should be level with the flybar (0 pitch). Crank the adjusters on all three servo arms until you achieve this. Here is a link with great info on setting up the rotors:
http://www.lenlutz.com/pages/blade_tuning.html
Hope this helps, the above link helped me get things tuned after I rebuilt everything after a serious crunch....
Doug
It sounds like you positioned the swashplate too high and have less positive pitch than you had with the original swashplate. With the throttle stick all the way down, the blades should be level with the flybar (0 pitch). Crank the adjusters on all three servo arms until you achieve this. Here is a link with great info on setting up the rotors:
http://www.lenlutz.com/pages/blade_tuning.html
Hope this helps, the above link helped me get things tuned after I rebuilt everything after a serious crunch....
Doug
I didnt make any adjustments at all to the swashplate. I just pulled the stock off and put the new one on. I will also try to lossen the ball conectors to check the stiffness...
I did notice there are 4 ball links on the upper swashplate . Does it matter which 2 i use ??
#2023
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From: spring hill,
TN
well the ball joints were a bit tight so i lossened them up with the pliers.
I checked the swashplate but was very level all the way around ( thanks for the link ) Even with the trim all the way up the copter did not want to lift off. It also wanted badly to go left and yaw right.
I am going to try and put the stock back on and see if i have the same problem which sucks because on wind up the rotor head is sooooooo smooth now. it really elimitated alot of vibration.
I checked the swashplate but was very level all the way around ( thanks for the link ) Even with the trim all the way up the copter did not want to lift off. It also wanted badly to go left and yaw right.
I am going to try and put the stock back on and see if i have the same problem which sucks because on wind up the rotor head is sooooooo smooth now. it really elimitated alot of vibration.
#2024
Ok. I think I got it. The alum swash is thicker than the stock one. The specs are to have 1/2" clearance from the top of the shaft to the top of the swash. You need to change that to 7/16" so the swash doesn't bottom out on the collar. You won't be using 100% negative so allow the extra clearance on positive.
#2025
I didnt make any adjustments at all to the swashplate. I just pulled the stock off and put the new one on. I will also try to lossen the ball conectors to check the stiffness...
I did notice there are 4 ball links on the upper swashplate . Does it matter which 2 i use ??
Doug


