E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
#628
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From: Apple Valley,
CA
I have the Eflite pitch guage too. Heres how to use it with the plastiblades.
You know that old refrigerator box in the garage stuffed full of replacement parts cardboard tags? Well heres what ya do with that other than stare and cry
.
Just cut out two pieces of the folded side of the label and put one each on the leading and trailing edges of the blades and slide the guage on top of them. Keeps the pitch guage lined up while taking up the slack. Works like a charm!
You know that old refrigerator box in the garage stuffed full of replacement parts cardboard tags? Well heres what ya do with that other than stare and cry
.Just cut out two pieces of the folded side of the label and put one each on the leading and trailing edges of the blades and slide the guage on top of them. Keeps the pitch guage lined up while taking up the slack. Works like a charm!
#629
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From: Rathdrum,
ID
Just thought I would update on my progress.
Since I had a crash last week I have been mostly working on the helicopter and doing little actual practice with it. The crash ended up costing me a main shaft. Tore everything down to check for bends/cracks in anything and everything else was fine. I noticed my 2 rear servo linkages were way off from eachother, so I corrected that and leveled the swash plate as best as I could. Still have a tiny amount of adjustment to do as I can watch the disk dip to the right when spun up and I pull straight back on the cyclic. I have spent the last few batterys in the 3-5 steps of RADDs, will be starting on the 6th tomorrow. Friday I will be buying some more tools to work on this thing with. I want to get a pitch guage and possibly a couple of other things.
Since I had a crash last week I have been mostly working on the helicopter and doing little actual practice with it. The crash ended up costing me a main shaft. Tore everything down to check for bends/cracks in anything and everything else was fine. I noticed my 2 rear servo linkages were way off from eachother, so I corrected that and leveled the swash plate as best as I could. Still have a tiny amount of adjustment to do as I can watch the disk dip to the right when spun up and I pull straight back on the cyclic. I have spent the last few batterys in the 3-5 steps of RADDs, will be starting on the 6th tomorrow. Friday I will be buying some more tools to work on this thing with. I want to get a pitch guage and possibly a couple of other things.
#631
mrblonde
I know you've heard it, but GO SLOW!
I can't stress enough how good RADD'S is. You will be way more comfortable at the end of the program... Just have patience..
It will also help keep your cost down.
I know you've heard it, but GO SLOW!

I can't stress enough how good RADD'S is. You will be way more comfortable at the end of the program... Just have patience..
It will also help keep your cost down.
#632
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: mrblonde
Just thought I would update on my progress.
snip> I noticed my 2 rear servo linkages were way off from eachother, so I corrected that and leveled the swash plate as best as I could. Still have a tiny amount of adjustment to do as I can watch the disk dip to the right when spun up and I pull straight back on the cyclic. <snip
Just thought I would update on my progress.
snip> I noticed my 2 rear servo linkages were way off from eachother, so I corrected that and leveled the swash plate as best as I could. Still have a tiny amount of adjustment to do as I can watch the disk dip to the right when spun up and I pull straight back on the cyclic. <snip
So don't make any adjustments based on what you see the rotor disc do on the ground. To check control motion and travel, it is best to look at the swash motion _before_ you start turning the main rotor. The swash should move exactly as you move the cyclic stick, same directions exactly, and should be free to move to full travel of the stick.
Do not expect the spinning rotor to behave this way, though.
#634
Commander_Bob,
Im no expert to adivise on your overall probs however I can attest to the difference between plastic and balsa blades.....with stabs of throttle (in normal mode) the head speed accelerates much quicker, and the bird climbs way better. The plastic blades should go as soon as you are confident that you can work on hovering without constantly whackin blades into the ground....
Im no expert to adivise on your overall probs however I can attest to the difference between plastic and balsa blades.....with stabs of throttle (in normal mode) the head speed accelerates much quicker, and the bird climbs way better. The plastic blades should go as soon as you are confident that you can work on hovering without constantly whackin blades into the ground....
#635
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From: Rolling Hills Estates,
CA
I just flew it with the pitch low and at full throttle it got about a foot off the gound but stayed there and did not decend.
Now I think is is just getting the pitch a little higher and it will fly.
Thanks so much,
Justin

Now I think is is just getting the pitch a little higher and it will fly.
Thanks so much,
Justin
#636
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From: Rathdrum,
ID
Thanks Jellyson, will test and watch just the swash.
I've been taking it pretty slowly 2-3 batterys a night, repeating steps until I'm comfy, I'm a lot less nervous with the thing after just the first 5 steps, I'm sure that will come back though as soon as its time to actually get the thing off the ground though. Does anyone have experience with the belt driven tail setup that helihobby(i think) sells? I'm thinkin this may be first on the list of things to get once I can hover the thing as is. Does it require more power from the main motor than stock? I like the belt drive idea over dual motor or direct drive as in the end converting appears it would cost about the same either way? Well besides having to go with an external gyro.
I've been taking it pretty slowly 2-3 batterys a night, repeating steps until I'm comfy, I'm a lot less nervous with the thing after just the first 5 steps, I'm sure that will come back though as soon as its time to actually get the thing off the ground though. Does anyone have experience with the belt driven tail setup that helihobby(i think) sells? I'm thinkin this may be first on the list of things to get once I can hover the thing as is. Does it require more power from the main motor than stock? I like the belt drive idea over dual motor or direct drive as in the end converting appears it would cost about the same either way? Well besides having to go with an external gyro.
#637
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From: Rolling Hills Estates,
CA
If you read the description on Heli Hobby for the belt driven tail it does not come with the gear box and the gear box costs $70 so your total is $125 compared to the $15 for DD tail.
I just saw that you can get the plastic gear box for $15 so the total is $70 more than 4x the amound of the DD. $15 does not = $70
I just saw that you can get the plastic gear box for $15 so the total is $70 more than 4x the amound of the DD. $15 does not = $70
#639
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From: Rolling Hills Estates,
CA
Sorry for three posts in a row but I wanted to know that if my main shaft is just slightly bent (flys smooth but body of heli vibrates) could this be causing excess drag and slower head speeds? It is easy to turn by hand but you never know...
I just increased the pitch links by 1/2 a turn and tried flying again with the same battry and hardly out of ground effect when it came slowly back to the ground...
WHAT DID I DO TO THIS HELI TO SCREW IT UP!!![:@]
I just increased the pitch links by 1/2 a turn and tried flying again with the same battry and hardly out of ground effect when it came slowly back to the ground...
WHAT DID I DO TO THIS HELI TO SCREW IT UP!!![:@]
#640
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: Commander_Bob
Sorry for three posts in a row but I wanted to know that if my main shaft is just slightly bent (flys smooth but body of heli vibrates) could this be causing excess drag and slower head speeds? It is easy to turn by hand but you never know...
I just increased the pitch links by 1/2 a turn and tried flying again with the same battry and hardly out of ground effect when it came slowly back to the ground...
WHAT DID I DO TO THIS HELI TO SCREW IT UP!!![:@]
Sorry for three posts in a row but I wanted to know that if my main shaft is just slightly bent (flys smooth but body of heli vibrates) could this be causing excess drag and slower head speeds? It is easy to turn by hand but you never know...
I just increased the pitch links by 1/2 a turn and tried flying again with the same battry and hardly out of ground effect when it came slowly back to the ground...
WHAT DID I DO TO THIS HELI TO SCREW IT UP!!![:@]
And all the links on these helicopters, once again, are one-way. They should be turned by full turns only, or they will bind (causing drag!) and eventually distort and get too loose.
Here, yet again, is the pic:
#641
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: Jellyson
In case anyone was wondering,
Yes the stuff I post really does work!
I just today built up a completely stock Blade CPPro from the spares and pulls. I set it up mechanically just exactly as I have been advising on these threads. I used all stock components and the stock transmitter/receiver. The only upgrade is the EFlite aluminum swash with the Align balls and servo links. The tail is completely stock. No external gyro.
On initial hover, the helicopter required no trim to hover easily. The proportional mix needed a slight tweak, so I landed and performed this adjustment, and boosted the gyro gain a bit. Took off and hovered and swooped and practiced orientation in normal and idle-up for the rest of the (stock) battery pack without further trimming or gyro adjustment.
That was it!
The blades were even in track.
Of course I could be making the whole thing up...
but I'm not.


In case anyone was wondering,
Yes the stuff I post really does work!
I just today built up a completely stock Blade CPPro from the spares and pulls. I set it up mechanically just exactly as I have been advising on these threads. I used all stock components and the stock transmitter/receiver. The only upgrade is the EFlite aluminum swash with the Align balls and servo links. The tail is completely stock. No external gyro.
On initial hover, the helicopter required no trim to hover easily. The proportional mix needed a slight tweak, so I landed and performed this adjustment, and boosted the gyro gain a bit. Took off and hovered and swooped and practiced orientation in normal and idle-up for the rest of the (stock) battery pack without further trimming or gyro adjustment.
That was it!
The blades were even in track.
Of course I could be making the whole thing up...
but I'm not.


#643
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From: Manhattan,
KS
DOES ANYONE WANT TO BUY MY PRO???????
Otherwise i am going to throw it in a dumpster. . . I think i am just having a bad beat with this one! I CAN NOT get my sticky collective (heli gains and looses 2-5 feet in altitude in a second or so, kinda bounces'ish and doesnt stop) to go away. This is what i have done:
Replaced. . .
MAIN BLADE GRIPS W/ SPINDEL
DAMPER RINGS AND WASHERS (ONE RING EACH SIDE)
CENTER HUB
MAIN SHAFT/DRIVE GEAR
BLADES (FLAT BOTTOM WOOD)
ROTOR HEAD ASSY (the flybar holder that slides on the center hub)
I have double checked all of the ball links and have worked hard to make sure they are smooth. There is no low freaq vibration, a little high freq from tail, but not much. I have also taken the extra flybar weights i added off. . . and the moved the stock ones half way in. . . I called horizon and they did not know, and then i asked God and he said to ask you guys
please help before it flys with brushless Evan power as my fist playing the part of the ESC. . . please?
Thanks guys!
Otherwise i am going to throw it in a dumpster. . . I think i am just having a bad beat with this one! I CAN NOT get my sticky collective (heli gains and looses 2-5 feet in altitude in a second or so, kinda bounces'ish and doesnt stop) to go away. This is what i have done:
Replaced. . .
MAIN BLADE GRIPS W/ SPINDEL
DAMPER RINGS AND WASHERS (ONE RING EACH SIDE)
CENTER HUB
MAIN SHAFT/DRIVE GEAR
BLADES (FLAT BOTTOM WOOD)
ROTOR HEAD ASSY (the flybar holder that slides on the center hub)
I have double checked all of the ball links and have worked hard to make sure they are smooth. There is no low freaq vibration, a little high freq from tail, but not much. I have also taken the extra flybar weights i added off. . . and the moved the stock ones half way in. . . I called horizon and they did not know, and then i asked God and he said to ask you guys

please help before it flys with brushless Evan power as my fist playing the part of the ESC. . . please?
Thanks guys!
#644
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From: Manhattan,
KS
jellyson,
do you like your Mx 400. . . thinking about getting trex. . . what do you think about your mx400 and hdx450?
sorry for the double post.
do you like your Mx 400. . . thinking about getting trex. . . what do you think about your mx400 and hdx450?
sorry for the double post.
#645
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From: Lawrenceville, GA
Sorry your having soo much trouble.
I may not have an answer (I am new to helis).
I have noticed today when flying mine and use my older battieries from my planes a 1500ma it starts popping up and down at times. I am just learning to hover and its scary. Only seems to do it with the big battery.
ORIGINAL: Uncle Sir
DOES ANYONE WANT TO BUY MY PRO???????
Otherwise i am going to throw it in a dumpster. . . I think i am just having a bad beat with this one! I CAN NOT get my sticky collective (heli gains and looses 2-5 feet in altitude in a second or so, kinda bounces'ish and doesnt stop) to go away. This is what i have done:
Replaced. . .
MAIN BLADE GRIPS W/ SPINDEL
DAMPER RINGS AND WASHERS (ONE RING EACH SIDE)
CENTER HUB
MAIN SHAFT/DRIVE GEAR
BLADES (FLAT BOTTOM WOOD)
ROTOR HEAD ASSY (the flybar holder that slides on the center hub)
I have double checked all of the ball links and have worked hard to make sure they are smooth. There is no low freaq vibration, a little high freq from tail, but not much. I have also taken the extra flybar weights i added off. . . and the moved the stock ones half way in. . . I called horizon and they did not know, and then i asked God and he said to ask you guys
please help before it flys with brushless Evan power as my fist playing the part of the ESC. . . please?
Thanks guys!
DOES ANYONE WANT TO BUY MY PRO???????
Otherwise i am going to throw it in a dumpster. . . I think i am just having a bad beat with this one! I CAN NOT get my sticky collective (heli gains and looses 2-5 feet in altitude in a second or so, kinda bounces'ish and doesnt stop) to go away. This is what i have done:
Replaced. . .
MAIN BLADE GRIPS W/ SPINDEL
DAMPER RINGS AND WASHERS (ONE RING EACH SIDE)
CENTER HUB
MAIN SHAFT/DRIVE GEAR
BLADES (FLAT BOTTOM WOOD)
ROTOR HEAD ASSY (the flybar holder that slides on the center hub)
I have double checked all of the ball links and have worked hard to make sure they are smooth. There is no low freaq vibration, a little high freq from tail, but not much. I have also taken the extra flybar weights i added off. . . and the moved the stock ones half way in. . . I called horizon and they did not know, and then i asked God and he said to ask you guys

please help before it flys with brushless Evan power as my fist playing the part of the ESC. . . please?
Thanks guys!
#646
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From: Manhattan,
KS
lanny2003,
i guess it could be the batt. . . but even then it still doesnt make sence why no one else would have this problem
nice SPAD by the way
any other ideas guys?
i guess it could be the batt. . . but even then it still doesnt make sence why no one else would have this problem
nice SPAD by the way
any other ideas guys?
#647
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: Uncle Sir
DOES ANYONE WANT TO BUY MY PRO???????
Otherwise i am going to throw it in a dumpster. . . I think i am just having a bad beat with this one! I CAN NOT get my sticky collective (heli gains and looses 2-5 feet in altitude in a second or so, kinda bounces'ish and doesnt stop) to go away. This is what i have done:
Replaced. . .
MAIN BLADE GRIPS W/ SPINDEL
DAMPER RINGS AND WASHERS (ONE RING EACH SIDE)
CENTER HUB
MAIN SHAFT/DRIVE GEAR
BLADES (FLAT BOTTOM WOOD)
ROTOR HEAD ASSY (the flybar holder that slides on the center hub)
I have double checked all of the ball links and have worked hard to make sure they are smooth. There is no low freaq vibration, a little high freq from tail, but not much. I have also taken the extra flybar weights i added off. . . and the moved the stock ones half way in. . . I called horizon and they did not know, and then i asked God and he said to ask you guys
please help before it flys with brushless Evan power as my fist playing the part of the ESC. . . please?
Thanks guys!
DOES ANYONE WANT TO BUY MY PRO???????
Otherwise i am going to throw it in a dumpster. . . I think i am just having a bad beat with this one! I CAN NOT get my sticky collective (heli gains and looses 2-5 feet in altitude in a second or so, kinda bounces'ish and doesnt stop) to go away. This is what i have done:
Replaced. . .
MAIN BLADE GRIPS W/ SPINDEL
DAMPER RINGS AND WASHERS (ONE RING EACH SIDE)
CENTER HUB
MAIN SHAFT/DRIVE GEAR
BLADES (FLAT BOTTOM WOOD)
ROTOR HEAD ASSY (the flybar holder that slides on the center hub)
I have double checked all of the ball links and have worked hard to make sure they are smooth. There is no low freaq vibration, a little high freq from tail, but not much. I have also taken the extra flybar weights i added off. . . and the moved the stock ones half way in. . . I called horizon and they did not know, and then i asked God and he said to ask you guys

please help before it flys with brushless Evan power as my fist playing the part of the ESC. . . please?
Thanks guys!
Gee, I wish I had it on my workbench, I bet I could straighten it out in a few minutes.
Try this: get your LHS to let you try a known good head from their BCP demonstrator. If the problem persists you have an electronics problem servos bad or something. If the problem goes with the head, then you have your feathering spindle or your B-H mixers assembled incorrectly.
In fact, since you had it all apart, just confirm for me that the Bell-Hiller mixers are rigged in the correct direction and are free to pivot properly. It is easy to get these levers upside-down and it will look right but it won't fly for beans.
#648
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: Uncle Sir
jellyson,
do you like your Mx 400. . . thinking about getting trex. . . what do you think about your mx400 and hdx450?
sorry for the double post.
jellyson,
do you like your Mx 400. . . thinking about getting trex. . . what do you think about your mx400 and hdx450?
sorry for the double post.
I do like the MX400. but the parts and spares are more expensive than Align TRex stuff so I am slowly converting it.
I also like the look of the HDX450 but I am sure we sould wind up in the same situation--replacing parts with Trex stuff because of price and availability.
#649
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From: Manhattan,
KS
jellyson,
The step washers are in correctly.
I am using the DX7. . . no glitches.
I am 90% sure my feathering spindle is correctly assymbled and not bent (its new as well)
How can the B-H levers/mixers be upside down? Wouldnt the nut for the blade grip be on top? Mine is on the bottom like normal.
i am sure it is not radio (not to harp on the DX7) i just know glitches and this is not one
About a head from my LHS. . . that wont fly, no pun intended. . . they dont have a display one.
But it is sitting in front of me as we speak, or type so if you have a min feel free to give me step by steps or anythign really!!!!!!!
The step washers are in correctly.
I am using the DX7. . . no glitches.
I am 90% sure my feathering spindle is correctly assymbled and not bent (its new as well)
How can the B-H levers/mixers be upside down? Wouldnt the nut for the blade grip be on top? Mine is on the bottom like normal.
i am sure it is not radio (not to harp on the DX7) i just know glitches and this is not one
About a head from my LHS. . . that wont fly, no pun intended. . . they dont have a display one.
But it is sitting in front of me as we speak, or type so if you have a min feel free to give me step by steps or anythign really!!!!!!!


