I just got my new 3 in 1(last one got fried) and the difference is huge! So much smoother and steadier. I wonder if mine wa faulty from the start?

Oh, my settings were to make it fly like the real thing, twitchy, tail not holding well (stock motor doesn't cut it), and unstable. For stable, add some regular expo, make sure the tail servo is high speed, play with the gyro gain on the sim. Most of the stability will come from the expo. On heli's I like mine around 20%-25%.

I think the new ones are better, better programing I think. Are there any BL motors that will work on a T-rex and my BCPP?

I got to really try out the DD tail today. fairly fast backwards flight with sweeping turns and it held well. Its a really good match for the brushed motor. Also, I flew in idle up a fair amount and that worked well too. The DD tail spools so much more quickly than stock. After a few minutes of FFF traveling fast piros, etc, the tail motor was a bit warm. I think the key is just not to fly too long. I really wanted to loop it but the ceiling was too low for a first try.

Hey,

for the more experienced heli guys out there. What is the proper way to setup the pitch and throttle curve? I just can't seem to get mine right. Thanks!

Has any one here ever used the auto rotation gear and shaft that they sell on helidirect....and if so, can i use them with the stock head?

the best way to think of it is that the pitch curve is your primary adjustment that affects the heli's personality, where as the throttle curve's only job is to hold the headspeed (rpm) constant at all times. ie: you play with pitch, then you tune the throttle curve to suit that pitch curve (always in that order). of course if you have a governor, a throttle curve is not needed.

the best way to go about adjusting both curves is to start with a baseline pitch curve. acceptable baseline curves for blades would be -6,4,+10 degrees in normal mode and -12,0,+12 degrees in idl1. once your pitch is set, adjust your throttle curve so the headspeed stays constant at every point.

to tune the throttle curve, i found it easiest to focus on one point at a time. start by getting your headspeed right at hover (around center throttle, or point 3 on a 5-point curve). then focus on the next point, lets say the one above hover, point 4, or 3/4 stick. get in a smooth hover, then move the stick to point 4 and hold it there. if there was a drop in headspeed, increase the throttle on point 4. if there was an increase in headspeed, drop the thottle a few % at point 4. repeat this excercise until there is no change in headspeed when you move between points 3 & 4. now work your way to the next point, and so on until you're done. keep in mind that setting point 4 before point 5 is easier, otherwise the headspeed will be less smooth transitioning in to 5. the same goes for points 1 and 2, start with point 2 first, then adjust point 1. when you're done, the rpm should hold constant throughout the collective range (limited by motor power of course, see my note on headspeed below).

tuning your throttle curve to match a pitch curve is the easy part, the hard part is choosing a pitch curve that suits your personal taste. ppl who hover a lot or do scale stuff usually like the results of flattening their pitch curves around hover. when ppl fly aerobatics, they often want a more linear response from the heli, so they will tweak their pitch curves to accomplish that.

to recap: you pick a headspeed, then play with pitch, knowing that if you change pitch at any point on the curve, the corresponding point on the throttle curve will also need adjustment to keep a constant headspeed.

a note on headspeed, the max headspeed will be limited by the capabilities of your motor. the stock brushed main motor will not be able to maintain a high headspeed and will bog down above roughly 8degrees, however with 3S lipo packs the rotor usually will continue to provide additional lift up to +12 degrees pitch. so i like to keep 12degrees in my programs for max lift with a stock motor.

THANKS!!! Great explanation. I'll try this out and post my results.

np zope_pope!

that seemed like a long explanation, but after i reread it i figured it was fairly to the point. seems like a long process, but once you do it the first time you see how it works and it becomes automatic. you'll probably have to do some back and forth adjustment to get the throttle perfect in between the points. don't stress on how to do that though, you'll see what i mean when you give it a go.

good luck with your revo trimming flight!

I have the g90 and dual tail motors, so hopefully revo will be minor on the tx. We shall see.

Has any one here ever used the auto rotation gear and shaft that they sell on helidirect....and if so, can i use them with the stock head?

Is a 30A BL ESC enough for this heli and a T-Rex 450SA?
Also is a 3800Kv motor good enough?

I really like Truglodite's summary of pitch & throttle curves.

My main question is about headspeed. Since my Blade CP Pro has more slop in the head than a trex, it seems to fly more predictably in hover with fairly low headspeed. The person at my local hobby shop said the stock motor may hover at something like 1100 rpm? Whereas a trex is more like 2000? How do we know how to set headspeed at hover at a good speed for Blade CP pro? Do you need some fancy optical tach? Do you suggest an rpm?

Second, I'm not into upside down heli flying yet, so not too experienced. But I'm finding it works pretty well if my headspeed actually increases when I need more upward thrust from hover (like in windy conditions). I'm using a razor brushless, so have a bit more main motor power than I think I need. Does that make any sense?

Do you think slower headspeed in hover is more predictable & controllable? And higher headspeed is more necessary to increase roll & pitch rates as we want to get more aerobatic?

Any guidance on suggested headspeed for hovering & FFF?
Any guidance on headspeed for aerobatics? (maybe higher?)

Thanks, Rob

I think higher headspeed = more stable/ better respaunse
Lower= less damage when you crash

Check out the FAI heli pilots and what they use for hovering maneuvers. Always lower headspeed.

Is the Aluminum swashplate from Horizon any good? or is there a better one.

It works well. I don't know if there is a better one but there is nothing wrong with the Horizon one.

What a difference. I did exactly as instructed on setting up my pitch and throttle curve, and the tail holds better, the heli flies much more to my taste. It just feels good overall. I am not even done fine tuning, but it made a huge difference. I recommend this to anyone else with programmable radios.

How many Amp ESC do I need to run the GWS DD motor. I am ditching my 3-in-1 because it is defected and I just upgraded to BL (parts still need to come) and now I need an ESC for the tail. Thanks

Also is there a difference between brushless ESC and burshed? What is it?

Is a 3A ESC good enough for the tail?

Will [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLA103]this[/link] ESC work for the tail motor?

There is a difference as the motors are different. You will need the brushed controller for the popular GWS direct drive motor.
We went with a small GWS controller. I think it is 2 amps maybe less. There is a difference in controllers. Some respond too slow. This makes it impossible to get the wag out.
Here is a video of ours in action.

[link=http://www.raymondstacy.com/pics/bladecp172007.wmv]Blade CP with G90 and DD tail[/link]

Thanks I have been to your sigh many times. Great flying. Is there anyway to tell how good a ESC is? What is a fast one that I could use?

Thanks

Is [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKZZ5&P=M]This[/link] the ESC you have?

It looks like it.
Mine is a 2 amp unit. It says ICS50 on it.


Other than trying it, I dont know how to tell a good esc from one that is not so good.

Ray