CPPROMAN

First off you need the Spektrum DX6 radio system or if you already have one for other e-helis and e-planes you need to purchase an additional AR6000 Spektrum park flyer receiver. Next we need to remove the existing receiver from the new E-Flight BCPP heli. You will see the BCPP’s receiver is in its own plastic case and separate from the 3in1 unit. It is double side taped to the BCPP’s new and improved 3in1 unit. Unwrap the white receiver antenna wire from the landing skid and unplug the servo wires from the receiver. Notice that 2 of the wires are marked. One is the rudder channel lead and the other is the throttle channel lead. These 2 wires come from the new 3in1 unit and are marked with white tags so these will be easy to identify. The 3 servo wire leads are not tagged. That’s ok since we will trace them out and identify them here. You may wish to mark these wires with a small piece of tape. Looking from the front of the heli I name the servos as follows: FRONT; LEFT REAR; RIGHT REAR. These are the CCPM servos that control the helis swashplate movements. Later when we mount the Spektrum AR6000 receiver we will plug these 3 servo leads into their corresponding channels. Next gently pry the receiver from the 3in1 unit. You may need to use a small metal screwdriver. Then remove any residue tape from the 3in1 unit. The new AR6000 receiver will be taped right to the 3in1 unit. Make sure when you mount the receiver that you test fit the canopy to assure it will fit back on. And check the routing of the 2 AR6000 antennas so they do not touch the maingear or are subject to chafing. There is plenty of room for this tiny receiver under the canopy. If you mount the AR6000 receiver as shown in the pics in this article all will fit nicely.



To attach the AR6000 to the 3in1 unit I used a piece of the small double sided sticky tape included in the BCPP kit. You get a few spare pieces in the kit and one piece of this tape works nicely for mounting. Looking at the face of the AR6000 receiver I position it with the writing right side up as it mates and gets taped to the 3in1 unit. Next plug the 3 servo leads and 2 wires from the 3in1 into the AR6000. Rudder lead from the 3in1 plugs into the channel marked RUD, throttle lead from 3in1 plugs into channel marked THR. Next locate the servo wire from the FRONT servo and plug that into the channel marked ELE. The LEFT REAR servo wire connects to the channel marked AUX and the RIGHT REAR servo wire connects to the channel marked AILE. Route the servo wires so they do not get chafed by the turning maingear. You will note they can be run the same way they were when the stock E-Flite receiver was onboard. Keep them away from touching the main motor since that can get warm in flight. ALSO make sure when you plug in these 5 wires that the ORANGE lead is on the TOP as you look at each plug. This assumes that you have the AR6000 mounted with the words on it right side up as mentioned in this article. Double check that the ORANGE wire in each plug, the SIGNAL wire, matches the small decal on the AR6000 receiver. This decal notes the correct orientation for how the wires plug into this receiver.



For these next steps it is a good idea to NOT plug in the LI-PO battery to the BCPP’s 3in1 unit. Wait until you have the DX6 transmitter set up and programmed for heli usage and have all the values from this article inputted into the transmitter. Be patient, later in this article we will boot up the system.



Next locate a model memory that is not being used by another model in your DX6 transmitter. Consult the DX6 manual for the procedure on how to change the model memory to a blank one. Note by performing this procedure incorrectly you may accidentally erase the current model memory that you have set up for another model. Be careful to understand how to change the model memory before completing this procedure. You may wish to consult page 70 of the DX6 manual for more info. Once that is done we need to change the aircraft type to HELI “HE� see page 66 in the manual. The DX6 defaults the model memory to the PLANE “AC� model type. When you have set up a new model memory and have changed the model type to heli you are ready to program the transmitter for the BCPP heli with the values listed in this article. Note you can also NAME this new model memory too as outlined on page 71 in the DX6 manual. I chose PRO for this conversion model name but you can use any 3 digits or letters for the name.



The Blade CP and Blade CP Pro utilize 120 CCPM mixing. We need to activate the CCPM programming in the DX6 transmitter. Since this setting is model specific it will only be active in this particular model and it will not affect other helis that do not use CCPM for cyclic and collective pitch controls that you may have already set up in your DX6 transmitter.



To activate the CCPM programming you may wish to consult page 88 in the DX6 manual. Once you activate the CCPM programming you can press both orange buttons upwards and that will get you out of the programming. The DX6’s battery voltage should be displayed as well as the 3-digit model name when you are not in the programming mode. And don’t worry if you accidentally scrolled past the “CCP� menu the first time you look for it you can continue to press the left orange button upwards until the programming menu re-appears. The DX6 uses a LOOP system for the programming menus and parameters. If you pass by any menu continue to press the left orange button upwards until the menu is displayed again. I’ve done it hundreds of times myself!!!



Next we will input a program that will fly the BCPP with the DX6 system. Note all of this should be done with the BCPP still OFF with no power going to the 3in1 unit for safety.



THR – Norm

AIL – Rev

ELE – Rev

RUD- Rev

GER – Norm

PIT – Norm



D/R - Dual Rates

AIO - 75%

AI1 - 100%

ELO - 75%

EL1 - 100%



EXP – Exponential

AIO – 6%

AI1 – 6%

ELO – 6%

EL1 – 6%



Sub-Trim – Will vary and will be set once the heli is powered up to center the 3 CCPM servos. This will be mentioned later in the article.



TRV ADJ

RUD – 80% in both directions

THR (-110%) at bottom stick and (+70%) at full throttle stick



All other channels should be 100% in both directions. Note default is 100% for each channel so the other channels should be at 100% at this point.



HLD – Activate Throttle Hold – See page 77 in DX6 manual.

Set 0% as value this will shut off throttle when this switch is activated.



PLN – 0% - Default Setting

P2N – 50% - Default Setting

PHN – 100% - Default Setting



PLS - 0% - Default Setting

P2S – 50% - Default Setting

PHS – 100% - Default Setting



PLH – 0% - Default Setting

P2H – 50% - Default Setting

PHH – 100% - Default Setting



TLN – 0% - Default Setting

T2N – 70%

THN – 100% - Default Setting



TLS – 0% - Default Setting

T2S – 70%



MIX RVU – Default Setting

0%



MIX RVD – Default Setting

0%



MIX A11 – Mix is OFF – Default Setting



MIX CP2

+70%



MIX CP3

+66%



MIX CP6

+50%



MIX CCP – ON – This is the 120 CCPM MIX found on page 88 in the DX6 manual.



Now with this program in the DX6 transmitter we can power up the BCPP. I recommend that both the main motor power wire and the tailrotor power wire be unplugged from the 3in1 unit for safety. These wires are located on the RIGHT side of the 3in1 unit where the BCPP’s LI-PO battery connects for main power. The plug port on top of the 3in1 is the tailrotor power wire and bottom plug port is for the main motor power wire. Note page 20 in the E-Flite BCPP manual for reference as to how these 2 plugs connect to the 3in1 if you loose track of their orientation and location.



Next up we need to BIND the AR6000 receiver to the DX6 transmitter. Note this is only required once and if you purchased a NEW Spektrum receiver for this article. Binding is explained on page 60 of the DX6 manual. If your using the AR6000 receiver that came with your DX6 radio system this is already done and you can skip the BINDING procedure outlined here.



For BINDING the receiver in the BCPP heli you may follow these easy instructions or consult page 60 in the DX6 manual as well. First connect the BIND connector plug with the orange tag that came with your radio system or that was included with the AR6000 receiver to the BATTERY pins. Next connect the BCPP LI-PO battery to the 3in1’s main power input lead. You will note that the LED on the AR6000 receiver will begin to flash. Next make sure your DX6 transmitter has the throttle stick at full down position and press and hold in the clear button on the back of your transmitter while you turn the DX6 transmitter power switch on. Release the button on the back of the transmitter once you see the LED inside the clear transmitter button begin to flash. Leave the system alone with NO transmitter stick movements and in 6 to 8 seconds the LED on the receiver should stop flashing and turn solid. You may notice at this point that the servos move a little too. This is normal since at this time your receiver is bound with your DX6 transmitter and the programming that you inputted per this article will now take control over the servos. Next disconnect the LI-PO battery from the 3in1 unit and remove the BIND connector plug from the BATTERY pins on the receiver. You can now turn your DX6 off too.



At this point we will look at the set up of the BCPP to make sure no over driving or stalling occurs on the servos when the DX6 transmitter sticks are moved to full positions. Again it is a good idea to NOT have the main motor or tailrotor motor power leads connected to the 3in1 unit since we will be moving the sticks on the DX6 to different positions to check servo movements and end point throws.



Turn on the DX6 with the throttle stick at full down position and plug in the BCPP LI-PO battery pack into the 3in1’s main power input lead. In a few seconds the servos should move a small amount as you notice the LED on the AR6000 light up solid.



This means the AR6000 receiver has locked onto your DX6 transmitter. Once the system arms we can move the throttle stick to center position. With the main motor and t/r motor wires disconnected the helis motors should NOT be moving. Only the servos will move as we move the transmitter sticks. At center throttle stick you should see the servo horns at center position with the servo horns pointing outwards at 90 degrees from the side of each servo. If this is not the case sub trim the 3 CCPM servos to correct this. Please consult page 75 in the DX6 manual for sub trim usage. Basically we want to get the servo horns close to center by using the sub trim values while the throttle stick is at the center position. Note each servo may need different amounts of sub trim values and some may not require any value at all. Once you have the servos adjusted with the horns close to 90 degrees, close counts, with the throttle stick still at center move the right transmitter stick to its full forward and backward position. You should not hear any binding at these full throw positions. Leaving the throttle stick at center return the right stick to center and move the right stick to its full left and right positions. Again you should not hear any binding as well as the right stick is moved to its full throws. Next return the right stick to center and move the throttle stick to its full up position. You should not hear any servo binding as the collective is increased to full. Then move the throttle stick to its full bottom negative stick position too. If you notice any binding during any of these full throw tests you can go into the CCPM programming mode and reduce the values approx 4 to 8 units or so. Consult page 89 in the DX6 manual for more information on this procedure. As a quick reference for FORWARD/AFT cyclic binding, that is right stick forward and backward movements; the parameter to adjust is CP3. CP2 is for the RIGHT/LEFT cyclic movement. And collective is adjusted in the CP6 parameter. Note the values for these parameters do not have to match and be the same. As a personal note I find the collective – CP6 usually lower than the other 2 CCPM settings mentioned here. AND CP2 is usually a little higher than CP3. You may find after flying the BCPP with the DX6 that you want to decrease the values of CP2 and CP3 to lessen the response. OR you may want to increase the values for CP2 and CP3 for more response as long as you do not hear any binding per this described testing. The numbers given in this article should be very close and should get the heli airborne and flying very well. You can tune as you prefer.



Next disconnect the LI-PO battery from 3in1 unit and turn off the DX6 transmitter. You can now plug in the main motor wire and t/r motor wire to the 3in1 unit. Please refer to page 20 in the E-Flight BCPP manual if you need assistance. Turn the DX6 back on and plug in the LI-PO battery. Make sure the throttle stick is at full down on the DX6. As with the stock BCPP transmitter do not move the heli while the LED on the 3in1 unit is flashing. At this time the gyro is calibrating for center and the throttle will arm shortly there after. Now you are all set to try that first test hover. As with any modification; upgrade or rebuilt heli always take care in trying your first hover attempts and flying. With this modification the BCPP may feel different since we now have a new transmitter and radio system controlling the heli. Note if your BCPP hovered and flew with good mainrotor tracking before this modification that should not change and all should be the same. If you have not flown your BCPP and did this modification first you may have to track the mainrotor blades. Depending on each BCPP’s set up you may have to adjust the POT on the 3in1 unit for tailrotor trimming. And you may want to adjust the POT for gyro gain on the 3in1 too. This is the same procedure as with the stock E-Flight transmitter and it is outlined in the BCPP manual. In my experience if the heli flew fine before this DX6 radio system transplant it will fly the same but have better control. And of course you now have full heli programming options too.



In closing please note in this article that we have set the stunt mode or “Idle Up� as referred to by heli guys to match the normal throttle mode. This is incase a newbie accidentally bumps this switch. As you progress you may wish to set the idle up to a high throttle level for aerobatics. Personally I set Idle Up to 100% throttle. If the Idle Up throttle value is set to a high value do not flip this switch from a dead stop or gear damage may result. Raise the throttle stick in normal mode until everything is running smoothly then flip the Idle Up switch. To avoid 3in1 arming issues make sure the switch to activate the DX6 stunt mode/Idle Up is off. The switch position should be in the AWAY position as you look at the DX6 transmitter to turn OFF this stunt mode.



That’s it, now your BCPP has been SPEKTRUMIZED!!! No need to worry about frequency pin issues or else at your favorite indoor or outdoor flying fields. And your BCPP is fully tunable with REAL heli programming parameters. Have fun and remember to fly responsibly and safely! - GMRO

Heli_Harry

These look like the same ones they sent me.

I would be interested to see if someone else can get the "Spektrum DX6 CP Pro setup direct from the manufacturer" to work.

They did not work well for me at all as the servos would bind with pitch and the heli was quite sluggish.

Have Fun!

CPPROMAN

My Chopper has nver seen the repair hangar as yeT

I tried the setup as you posted Heli H.. but with my ship the head speed was low compared to stock transmitter therefore I felt the ship a litle unsteady.. Again I quess it is all in each individual heli..

With the setup from Horizon,, I incorporated -50% travel on the pitch ( I have a habit of reducing left stick in a hurry when in trouble ) the only other adjustment was about 6 points of aileron trim.. With those settings if I snap the throttle/pitch to about 60% the chopper will hover hands off for a short time before correction..

Not pickin just helpin (I hope)


Keith

Heli_Harry

Kieth,

I really did not run it long with the stock TX about a week or two as I was still just learning to hover so I never got a good feel for the stock TX.

Are you flying a CP or a CP Pro? What are settings for throttle and Pitch?


I have been tweaking my settings as I get better plus I have extra shims in the head a gyro now.

It's odd that you said the 65 was a low head speed over the companies 70 (should be barely noticeable) I'll have bump mine up to 70 and see if I can tell a difference.

The pitch settings I'm running give me the full +12 and - 12 degrees pitch when I tried the 55 the company used the servos would bind on the ends pretty bad.

I'm wondering if there are different servos or software or something as when I ran those settings it was sluggish (I'm even thinking about tweaking the settings more to make my CP Pro even more responsive).

CPPROMAN

I am still using the stock servos, no mechanical adjustments have been made to the heli at all.. I dont have a pitch gauge, but it looked like the OEM setup with the DX was giving me full positive and negative pitch (For Inverted I quess) at this point in time flying the right way up all the time would be good [:@]
Question: Novice pilot, wants faster responce.. My thought as a novice give the exp a 30-50% setting. to give some overcorrectiveivity a wack on the head

Heli_Harry

Being an old plane flyer I like thing a lot more responsive (touchy)

OOCH

Thanks CpPro dude,

I have come to the conclusion after selling these cps/pros that each machine is definately different, and no one setting even on the stock stuff is the same for all. you can bet that personal pref plays a roll there too. I am going to set up MDL2 with the HZN suggested settings and see what happens. I am slowely tweeking according to my machine as it is. Hopefully that will get it there. I dont fully know the best feel for it, though my first successfull flight the other day was really cool, although I didnt push it much. I think my gyro needs some dialing.. but not sure if that was what I was feeling... after all I just did the thing I try and keep my customers from doing, that being making many changes instead of 1 or 2 and adjusting.. I made a lot of changes.. so the adjustment is a little slower.. for me anyhow. But hey, no guts no glory? lol.

I must say though, the actual "flight" of it, even if just a hover, is completely addicting, in a good way..

Cheers yall

Sean

roblew1115

With respect to the binding issue...you can simply alter your pitch settings to something like 15, 50, 85 or whatever it takes to halt the binding and you will still get full throw for your -12 to +12 pitch! What I did was leave the pitch menu active on the radio, run the left stick to max, adjust the pitch down until the binding is alleviated. Do the same at both ends of the travel AND in idle up mode and you are good to go!

Heli_Harry

Yes I could have set my pitch that way but the proper way is to set it the CCPM mixing.

The real question is has any one gotten the settings 100% as from the manufacturer to work right on a CP PRO?

I'm really curious, as I'm wondering if the ones they put out are for a different Heli other than the Pro.

I'm running the Stock Servos, the Stock Blades, an Align Gyro (Pretty much the same as the G90), Stock Motors, and Stock Batteries.

OOCH

DX7

mrhazzard

well after a couple of days trying to set up my DX6 with my Blade Cp. I fried the 4&1 and let the li-po's go below 9v with all the testing. did not know the lipo's were that low until i tried to charge them and they would not charge on the quick charger so had to use the stock charger to bring them back up then use the quick charger. but i had to get another 4&1. i don't know if the spectrum rx is fried doe's any one know how to test it. i will just wait until i get a heli kit to use the DX6

cjohle

Hello All,
I intend to test this tomorrow night. Have a HoneyBee CP2 and will let you guys know how the CP settings work out for it.

cjohle

OK, I seperated the 4in1 from the receiver. Plugged all of the CCPM servos into the correct three slots. I am trying to use an Align RCE-500x HH gyro, but am a bit confused as to where to plug in what. From what I read somewhere else, nothing needs to be plugged into the gyros servo connection? Additionally, when I connect the throttle from the 4in1 to the GX6 receiver and test, the servos work correctly for the CCPM, but nothing else and the light on the 4in1 is red . . .

My understanding after reading some other posts is as follows (and I'm only speaking of throttle/rudder connections here):
Channel 3 from 4in1 goes to Channel 1 on Spektrum (throttle)
Channel 4 not used if using a seperate gyro?
I don't know how that would work as the signal has to be pushed to the 4in1 ESC to tell the tail rotor the speed, but I don't want to just start plugging things in and fry something.

I don't remember where I got this post, but I printed it and here is the quote:
"Now this setup only provides rate gyro. If you decide to go the extra step and use a heading hold gyro, the signal lead of the gyro will pluginto the rudder channel of your receiver (channel 4 on the DX6)." This is where I'm confused. "The channel 4 lead of the hacked 3 in 1 unit will not connect to the gyros servo lead. Turning the proportional and gain controls full counter-clockwise will disable their functions."

So if you guys have any insight I'd love to hear it. Just trying to use the 4in1 ESCs without the gyro!

thanks,
cjohle

Heli_Harry

Hook it up like this:

THR <- -- Main Rotor (on 3in1)
ALE <--- Aleron Servo (Port)
ELE <--- Elevator Servo (Front)
RUD <--- Gyro <--- Rudder (on 3in1)
GER <--- Gyro Remote Gain lead (Single wire)
AUX <--- Pitch Servo (Starboard)

HeliTB

cjohle...I have HB CP2 that I use an external rxr and HH Gyro with. What you have to do is make two wires to run from what is now a 3in1 (4in1 with the rx removed). If don't have any broken servos laying around, go to you LHS and ask for 6" servo extension wire, you will need two of them (one for the throttle and gyro).

1. On one end of the extension wire (opposite the end you plug into the rx) you will see a three pins [- - -], you will need to peel the outer plastic to expose the pins, be careful not to bend the pins. Do this for both extension wires.

2. Now plug the one of the wires into the rx throttle channel I assume in the DX6 that's CH1 and then plug the opposed pins into the top bank female plug on the back of 3in1 where the old rx was.

3. Now plug the remaining wire into your RCE-500x Gyro and then plug the opposed pins in the lower bank female on the back of the 3in1 where the old rx was.

4. Finally plug your RCE Gyro into CH4 on your rx.

Now your ready to go. What I would do for safety reasons is unplug the both motor wires from the 3in1 and power on the radio and power on the 3in1 to make sure you have a solid green light when the 3in1 is armed and ready. Once you very that I plug only the tail motor in and power everything up, give little throttle to see if the tail rotor spins and then give it some rudder left and right. The rudder should stop spinning when you give it rudder left. If that works plug in the main motor.

I forgot to mention the black or negative servo lead goes in the outter connector.

Tall Paul

I've Spektrumized my CPs... the stock transmitter was glitching at odd intervals.
Connections look like this...
For the two extensions for motor and rudder, I've shortened the LHS 6" extensions to have less length and are easier to tie up in the wiring bundle.

Heli_Harry

Nice looking drawing

I think HH owes me a Neck Strap by now for all the Tech Support

Dynamic

I ordered my DX7 yesterday. I was told to expect it by mid december. I had to get mine with the large servos, but if you wait till mid January apparenly they are coming out with a model that has the micro servos included. I figure in a few months I'll be ready for a T-Rex so the radio was the first step in my upgrade process. Then servos, then Trex itself, then batteries and a charger. (have to see how the g90 does with it....if it sucks) then a 401 gyro.

For my spektrum DX7 heli I ended up paying $402 CDN.

cjohle

Thanks a million. I think I fried my 4in1 as it only shows a red light when I plug it in (motor leads connected or not). So, I'm going to get one from the LHS. They only carry eFlight products, but that should work.

cjohle

I've been looking for the post that tells you about the 4in1 LED and what it means, but haven't been able to find it!

Tall Paul

Plug in the battery in the heli.
LED starts red, 3 blinks, goes green, blinks red and green... Transmitter not turned on.
Transmitter on, LED starts red, stays red... Throttle not at idle.
Transmitter on, LED starts red, stays red. Idle up switch engaged. Turn off Idle up, goes green after 4 blinks. Ready to fly.
Transmitter on, LED starts red, 3 blinks, goes green, 4 blinks, goes solid green. Ready to fly.
With the throttle full up, goes red.

CPPROMAN

In addition to TallPauls tell tale flashing diode story.. I found out that even a certain amount of trim (Throttle) caused the RED

cjohle

Gah! It still isn't working. Two blinks then solid red. I thought maybe I fried my 4in1, but I put it all back together and it initializes fine.

I have noooo idea!

Heli_Harry

Did you hook it up like this?

THR <- -- Main Rotor (on 3in1)
ALE <--- Aleron Servo (Port)
ELE <--- Elevator Servo (Front)
RUD <--- Gyro <--- Rudder (on 3in1)
GER <--- Gyro Remote Gain lead (Single wire)
AUX <--- Pitch Servo (Starboard)

CPPROMAN

Make sure throttle trim is at zero.. Not Just the throttle.. Page 21 CPPro manual
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