Wnuk,

It could be as simple as a bad motor, generating a harmonic frequency and causing your glitching problem. Try replacing one motor at a time. Or, just disconnect one of the motors, it will still fly fine with only one of the two motors. If still having glitches, reconnect the the first motor that you took out of the equation and disconnect the other. Process of elimination.

Dave / Choppersrule
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Lookyj,

I'm the same with my TREX XL (basic one), still not comfortable with set up. Just never had crashed it, yet! I've got about 50 fligts on it now, give or take. So far, still, one tiny ding on one of the blades, and a broken (plastic) swashplate, from a hard landing. Replaced with the CNC one.

No such thing as a crash free heli, odds are always against us, sorry!

Dave / Choppersrule
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Wunk that really sounds strange? Even if both tail morters work fine by themselfs hooking them up in together might it not be one is trying to run faster or slower than the other and being hooked up to the same gear they fight each other ? or are you getting glitches all over. Just a thought

wnuk,

I heard someone else at my LHS with that problem. The guys at the shop said the CNC tail support conducts the electricity from the tail motors down the CF boom to the servos. Whereas, the stock plastic tail assembly creates a buffer. Sounds good in theory, but not 100% as I've never done the dual tail or cnc motor mount or personally encountered that problem.

choppers,

yeah, I just picked up my S from the shop. She flies great! Guess, I'm getting pretty good as the heli guy didn't even charge me, he said he really didn't have to do anything except for a couple programming changes in the DX7 because I flipped the servo around to the right side of the tail boom.

RICK HERE : been a looooong time since I finished a model....but just now I have the TEST BED CESSNA ready for Maiden Flight. For the first time I run the 400 OutRunner with its 10 x 7 prop, and WOW does it put out power !!!! I can already see that this little bit of foam fluff model will have to be TAMED DOWN.... I have set it up like I used to my Pattern FLyers, with full deflections but with the DX-7 for the TX I am 100% sure that ATF and even Exponential I am guessing will be a must do...... With good results on range, duration and flyability, this is the whole equipmnt. that goes into the REX. Except for the DX7 long range tests to be done on a bigger Electric plane. NOW to set up the PRO with the BRUSHLESS and the GYRO ... ...........can't hardly wait to see the difference. And what about the CNC ? for a good upgrade ? do I need it ? am I talking about a "metallic" swash plate ? I don't even know what I talk about .....shheeesh what a dumb bunny. Need to clear the bench before I start. My daughter comes back from Italy on Monday, so I got two days for HELI BLISS..... CHEERS to all........ye Olde Phartte RICK

Barrick,

have you put in the autorotation hub and stainless shaft? I would recommed that upgrade before the CNC head. Actually, I WAS a real big fan of the CNC Head, until you crash... It just hurts more! And I've found close to impossible to get balanced after a major crash. The CNC bends, where as the plastic seems to have a better memory and either snaps or gives and bends back. With that being said, I do see a big difference with aluminum swashplate. My feelings save the cash and just upgrade to A/R and Aluminum Swash.

Great, I order the A/R and don't get the Aluminum swash plate. I am the model of day late/ dollar short, I swear

I guess it's one upgrade at a time for me

That's what I thought too, lookyj. I took electrical tape and wrapped it around the boom where it would touch the CNC head & I still had the problem. I think I'll start with 2 fresh tail motors and see what happens. Seems weird as I know that Choppers is running duals with no issues.

The glitch it creates is this: It almost appears that the heli is going into negative pitch from positive. At no predicatable time, I will be in a steady hover and "wham" she drops to the ground like a brick was set on top of it. It doesn't pitch left, right, forward, or backwards, just straight down.

The stock tail works fine in FFF, I was just hoping to gain a little more tail authority as I'm progressing to more agressive flight /manouvers (sp?) with it.

For what this heli is and it's size, I'm still impressed with it for under $250.00 dollars.

wnuk,


I agree 100%

You can't beat the Blade CP Pro, for a RTF $250 collective pitch heli!

I was reminded of this again, when I picked up my TREX at the hobby shop. One of the customers had a ESKY Honeybee with AR6100 and DX7.....

needless to say, he was at the hobby store asking how to get it to fly better. The guy at the counter said buy a Blade CP Pro

Hey wnuk, how do you have the antenna routed? I put mine right out of the 4-1 to the skids and then back and forth until I have about 12-14 inches left and then run it trough a plastic tube strapped by pieces of rubber bands to the skids. I had MAJOR glitches before I did this and after none. As you said it was like it went to negative pitch.

I didn't have any pics of my ant route but I drew it in blue as it would be on the opposite side. Blue is the antenna, yellow is the plastic push rod I used. I had a ton of glitches before I did this, now it will suddenly drop on very rare occasions.

Nope, never routed my antenna. Just left it the way it came stock. I had no glitches with it till this point (CNC tail holder). It's worth a shot though. Think tomorrow I'll test it out with seperate motors on the CNC holder (thanks again choppers!) and see what happens.

Jim

hrm, yeah that is kinda weird. I am running the microheli cnc dual tail holder without any glitch problems at all. A couple of things that I can think of with the dual tail. Just depending on how musically inclined you are, take the gear off and spool up the two motors, if they have the same pitch, then they are running at the same speed. It usually takes a musically trained ear to hear the difference though. If you here a wa wa wa sound that's called a beat and it means they are not running the same speed. The longer apart that wa wa wa sound is the closer to sync they are if the pitch is reasonably close.

a couple things that could make them run at different speeds... the lead wire is too long to the second motor. The two lead wires are of different lengths or resistances, a little but will probably be fine, but alot is not good (see note at the end). One motor is more broken in, one motor is more worn than the other motor or close to failing.

If it is an RFI type deal, make sure that the caps are connected to the negative pole of the motor and then grounded to the outside of the case and there is continuity between all the grounding points without the negative wire lead.

Just a couple of other things, I didn't need any insulation between the CF rod and the alum tail holder, you may want to check your tail motor wire for shorts along it, like closer to where the cnc mounts because it could short to the cnc and it wouldn't short to the plastic.

If you have a way to take some pics of your setup that might help trouble shoot it a bit.

note: I tried just for an experiement to run the dual tail with only the positive wire connected because the cases are grounded together and connected through the rf cap. This was enough difference in resistance to make the motors run at a pretty significant speed difference.

Also be careful about just sliding the motor back from the gear, if you leave the pinion in the hole that it goes through (like sliding it back just a bit), it can bind the motor and fry your 3 or 4 in 1 and/or blow a fuse as well as ruin your motor. just ask me how I know =P

Hey Ya'll, I just installed my ar gear and all I can say is SMOOOOOOTH! i think the head speed picked up a bit without any bind. I also gave it a good juicing of silicon spray as I went. She flew great and now I'm waiting on the slo-max motor

radio-

a huge diff with the ar hub! For me I think that's the best $30 you can spend on the CP Pro, and after the initial investment a bent shaft replacement costs the same as stock and you get much higher quality. I've been running some suped up 370 motors from Team Losi in my 1/18 mini-T. Wondering how this $30 motor would fare in the Blade CP Pro?

hummm, something I haven't tried... looks like another trip to the hobby store!

Wheeeeeee......... Blade CP

$30 Losi?, or the Slo-max. Mine's coming from Tower for $14 and that includes the shipping, thanks noguy for that one!

Theradioflyer........... I just gotta know as soon as you get that motor what you think of it. I was also looking at the Baron 330 for some insane flight but want to know what kind of pull on batterys the SloMax has first. I will stay brushed with my BladeCP as i just don't trust my soldering skills enough to hack the 4 in 1 for a brushless setup. If that motor doesn't seem to deplete batterys too bad, I will definatly go at least the 300 if not the 330.
Mrsamm is the resident electrical guru in this thread and maybe he might be willing to chime in on this latest venture to fly like no Blade has before.
The specs for the Baron 330 are:
- Performance upgrade from standard 300 gearbox motor
- Amp Draw 1.2A
- 42,000 RPM
- 21 Turns
- Premounted capacitors
- Removable endbell
- Replacebable brushes
- Precision Ball Bearings
- Designed for park flyers or micro helis
- Size L46.7mm x Dia.24.2mm
- Shaft Dia 2mm
- Weight 55 grams


the specs for the SloMax are:
- Perfect replacement for standard 300 gearbox motor
- Designed specifically for planes under 22 oz.
- No upgrading of ESC required from RTF model
- Premounted capacitors on PCB board
- 28 turns of .50mm of copper wire
- 15 oz. of thrust
- Size- L42mm x Dia.24.3mm
- Shaft Dia 2mm
- Weight 49 grams

Anyone know any drawbacks to these brushed motors?

edit: for reversal of motor specs


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Of all the things I ever lost.......................................... I miss my mind the most!

thanks arrow =) I'd sure be glad to help, but I guess I don't really understand the q =)

15oz of thrust works out to be 425g of thrust, which would be really good for the stock cpp at 298g. My current heli is about 360g, so I dunno how much performance it would give for mine, but it might definately be a step up from the stock motor.

I would also be very interested in a motor with ball bearings and replacable brushes. The main thing I think in these motors to look at is how much juice they draw and seeing how close it gets to over doing the heli. When my heli was flying well I was using about 4A so the stock battery would last about 12 min. I do wonder about that first motor that says it only draws 1.2A of power. Off of the testings I have with the sym blades on the cpp at 5k feet with the 9t pinion the stock motor draws 1.5A at 0 pitch. Also the stock motor as I weighed it is 49g, so they are real comprible in the weight section.

I've been trying to figure out how you calculate thrust, so then we could compare the motors that way and maybe find out some more stuff that might be helpful.

On the brighter side, I went by harbor freight today and they were having a sidewalk sale =) wahoo! I got 2 multimeters for 6 bucks =) can't beat that!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...unction=Search

I got them for the heli bag so I don't have to beat up my nice one. Heck at radio shack you can't even come close to buying the leads for the price I paid for the whole meter =P I guess we'll see how it works out and if it is very accurate. I've got to figure out how to run the transistor test function. If anyone knows how to do that, I'd really like to know =)

Hey no problem. I think you will really like it. I am even thinking of slowing down the slo-max from a 9t to a 8t to increase my flight times. They are now 6-10mins (dependng on the flying) instead of 10+ minutes. Also my eflite batteries get considerably warm when I am flying hard (they must be low C rated batts, they're no TP's thats for sure). This motor is balistic compared to the eflite motor.
I am also starting to suspect my DD motoris going out. It has many many hours and is probably a cuase of the decreased flight times too.

I would love to have some punch out races with the slow max VS a eflite bl setup just to see. I know that a bl setup will definately walk away from the slow maxx but I would be willing to bet that the slow-maxx holds up to the eflite park370 pretty well once you start factoring performance VS price. The way my bird is flying right now it could definately pull off some 3d that would make the stock motor fall on its face.

Happy flyin', Noah

Dont you love that place. I buy a ton of huge size mechanic's tools there for workng on my heavy equipment. Everything they sell is "throw-away" stuff but there prices are insane.

MAIDEN FLIGHT for the TESTBED CESSNA 182 Park FLyer was done this morning in a College parking lot..... Unqualified success ! some of the observations : The DX-7 plays great. The RANGE on the DX6100 RX amazed me......I pushed it as far as I could see the plane, still solid reception.....this is WAY more than I ever intend to fly a Helicopter, so the RANGE is safe. I had never flown any model as LIGHT and as RESPONSIVE, I considered EXPO for a while, but I guess that super-fast responses on this model just trains my fingers to be super-responsive for the Helicopter operation, so I will just practice with the Super-Sensitive-ailerons/rudder/elevator. It is very hot in Houston today. I will now, immediately go to work on updating the CP-PRO..... I am following the PRO ALIGN Manual and EVERYTHING seems to be covered, I don't expect to run into any problems. To be safe and forget nothing I just ordered the LIST that is shown in the Manual, so I have everything I need. A NOTE TO CHOPPERSRULE : today I will actually do my SOLDERING, wish me luck. So my PRO will have brushless motor AND gyro by this evening. WISH ME LUCK ... RICK.........................

It will certainly be interesting to see how this motor does. I've been really playing with punching out lately to see how the chopper reacts. As it sits with the ar, it picked it up a hair but I still bog the motor down at full collective. I have the 10t aero/upgrade motor on it right now. I'm going to slide the 9t on the slo-max when it get's here,( hopefully tomorrow). I plan on putting the carbons back on as well. My guess is that I'm going to have to mess with the 4-1 to get the tail up to speed with the rotor. One thing I need to remind myself is to tach the head speed before and after the changes. I think my head speed is fine right now I just need the power for more torque in full collective. I would think the 330 motor would have a much shorter run time at 21 turns vs 28 turns. Just old RC car experience there. My set-up right now is a 8 minute flight w/ tP 910's. If this motor pulls better I may switch up to my TP1302's, I will certainly try all of this and let ya'll know what happens

God Bless!

Good-Luck Rick!

Update on the Dual Tail: I think I have isolated my problem down to a bad tail motor. I mounted both my motors but just wired the top one up. Hovered for 6 minutes without a glitch. Then I disconnected the top motor and wired the bottom motor only. After about 4 minutes, the glitches came rolling in. Just to be sure, I disconnected the bottom motor and went back to the top and had no glitches. I will likely pickup 2 motors tomorrow at the LHS and test again.

Rick: Way To Go on the Cessna! Let us know how you do with the Pro & DX 7!

RadioFlyer: Please be sure to let us know how your testing with the upgraded motor goes. I'm interested in how you make out.

Barrick My Friend,

Glad to hear the range on the DX7 systems works beyond your expectations, that's good news.

Soldering, just take your time and practice a few times on some scrap wire... Don't forget to tin the wires first. Good luck on your soldering debut.

Pro: Adding the brushless motor and gyro are both, well explained in your Pro manual, just follow each step carefully.

Best to ya Rick,

Dave / Choppersrule
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Wnuk,

Glad to hear you have the dual tail glitch problem isolated. These tiny tail motor can cause you havov sometimes, I always have a few spares. Remember, you can get them at BPhobbies for like $6.37. I usually order 4 of them and a bunch of other spare parts to offset the shipping charges. Usually, 3 to 4 working days to get your order.

Dave / Choppersrule
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