RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

yup, spindles and flybars are compatible. So are motors, wires, tail booms, bearings, blades, chargers, batteries, frames (the stock esky frame is not as good as the eflite frame, but I am more talking about their replacement frames), tail frame shaft and gear, tail rotor blade, training kit, tools heat sinks, flybar paddles, collar, flybar weight, battery plugs, dd setups,

should be compatible but I don't know
o-rings, swash plate, servo push rods, screws,

Alot of parts are also compatible if you replace things, like if you replace the main shaft and gear, you can replace them with esky stuff, or you can replace the whole head with a cp2 head (but the parts wont switch over), or the 3 in 1 or the rx's (esky rx's are negative shift, so they should work with the stock eflite controller, although I don't know this for sure)

hopefully this helps answer your q

and welcome to the group!

edit: come to think about it spindles might not be compatible you would have to buy them in http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...roducts_id=311 or atleast that is the only place I could find them, and I know that the center hub is not compatible with the eflites. It might be worth buying it once to find out.

or something like this might work
http://www.heli-fever.com/product_in...roducts_id=653

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

ok this is the latest i put the heli back to stock except the plasti blades i took the super skid off and the daul motor tail and put another new tail motor on and made some more head adjustments and now i can get 8-10 min out of it.

i have no clue why it is working now besides maybe weight i am going to start putting the upgrades on one by one and see if i can find out what was the deal.
thanks for all you guys help you tought me a ton

Tom

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

hrm, yeah... I get 12 min with my single tail an 8T pinion JCS plasti-blades superskids and the stock tail with 2 heatsinks...

glad you are up and running again =)

I wonder if it isn't that tail somehow.... like something shorting against the metal or something

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

i am going to try the 8t pinion and see how that does i think it will be a ton better. are you running the stock batt?

have you tried drilling the plasti blade to make them alittle lighter?

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

I have 1 stock battery for 12 min, and 2 CSRC 1250mAh's for 17 and 1/2 min each.

I haven't done what you are talking about, but here is a pic of someone who did, might give you some ideas
http://www.jcshobbies.com/luckyducpics.html

the 8t gives it alot more power, doesn't run as hot, and a slightly longer run time... atleast for the weight I am running (training skids, super-skids, flat plasti-blades, 2 heatsinks on the main and on the tail, so a pretty heavy bird)

I might have access to a scale one of these days and I could weigh it... we'll see

edit: one more thing... I would drill the holes a bit smaller and not through the cord of the rotor... a bunch of small holes would be better than several bigger holes (for strength and weight)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

ya i saw that thats what gave me the thought to try it.but i think it would make them flex more and take out more booms.
i compared the carbons in one hand and the plastis in the other and wow there is a ton of differance between the two.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

i have a friend that just got a cp pro and he has a Futaba 6exh radio are there any sites out there that welp you out with starting set-ups for the cp?

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

yeah, there is a setup guide for that radio on this forum... let me see if I can find it real quick


I think if you drilled lots of smaller holes then you would have less flex... but I don't know for sure

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5067420/tm.htm

should be good

or for the 9c is here
http://bladecprepair.com/smf/index.php?topic=1258.0

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

dude you just know it all thanks. i am thinking of getting a jr8103 and using that only cause im not a fan of Futaba
thanks again

TOM

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

no prob =) I dunno much about airtronics or JR other than you will have to replace your receiver. You might even get a dx6 =)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Or a DX7 :D

Karl

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Couple new things discovered accidentally.

After a full flight on my CP Pro the other day and then a later charge on the battery, the next flight only lasted about 1 minute on the newly charged battery. I tried again later and got the same thing. I assumed maybe the battery was shot, but there was just no reason for it. It ran a FULL flight before I started to have problems and was charged properly. So then I tried the charger for my Blade CX2, which charges at .65Amps vs. .8. That worked fine. So I'm not sure if it's the charger or what. I'll test it again - but something to keep in mind if your battery won't fully charge or seems kaput.


NEXT

I had a Blade that I got rid of before this Pro. After a light crash one day, I noticed the blade grip was not connected. I looked at it, and there was a broken part in there. (little did I know a few things broke off and were gone, which I didn't notice). I went to my parts box and pulled an old blade grip I was happy to have. I swapped out the broken one quickly (this was the 1st repair I had done in quite awhile). I did a quick test and it seemed okay. So over the next couple of weeks I flew it several times, and it just seemed more difficult to even hover. It seemed to wobble a bit when turning right or going forward even a little bit hard. I figured I just needed more practice on my hovering for some reason. So what went wrong? Finally after another crash and a broken part - the one that surrounds the blade grip, I did a very careful examination. I had inadvertently taken out the bell hiller part of the blade grip (if that's sort of what you called it) and replaced it with a normal blade grip, attaching it like you normally would. So one blade behave a bit different than the other. It's all fixed now, and I feel like I can fly like a pro compared to before. So if you want to make flying/hovering more difficult and work on your control, just replace one of your blade grips with a regular CP blade grip w/ the one attachment.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Hey guys, I was wondering what tipe of tail setup should i go with. Should I go with the dual tail motor set-up ore the DD? Help would be appreciated.

P.S. I'm kinda thinking the dual motor would benefit me more, but i would also like ur opinion.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

look back a few pages, and I covered quite a few points in the debate between the two
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5553620

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Thanks alot!

But, i am not anywhere near hard 3d flying, Yet... So should i go with the dual tail just for forward flight and learning light aerobatics. And then when i get good, get the DD? thanks for ur help!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

the daul motor tail is nice and hold well. if you put it on just make sure to balance the heli it is way tail heavy with the mod.i have like 1/2oz in the very front.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

hey tom235 what are you using for a tail skid on your dual tail motor setup? You sent me a picture once, but I can't remember how it was set up. Thanks!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

i was using the micro heli vfin that screws into the dual motor setup it pretty slick

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

As a new member of the CP-Pro club, I just wanted to say "Hi!"

I've been flying my CX2 for a few months and wanted something that could handle a bit more wind, so yesterday I decided to take the plunge. I've run about 4 battery packs so far, although I'm still just skimming the ground. I put my training gear from my CX2 on, using zip ties. I also bought the Plasti-blades and swapped those in before I did anything.

So far, I'm pretty impressed with what you get for the money. Hopefully I can get the hang of thing. It sure makes me feel like a pro now when I bust out my CX2 - that thing flies itself, comparatively.

The tail seems like the weakest part of the CP. I've read about the tail motors failing, but what's with the assembly? Nothing but a little piece of tubing holding the blades on? A skinny little stick to keep the blades from hitting the ground, so skinny they snag on everything (and still let the blades hit the ground)? Obviously the helicopter is not designed to be skimming on the ground, but it still needs to land once in a while. Does anybody sell any aftermarket rear-ends for these that are a bit beefier? I don't think the Super-Skids extend that far back, from what I remember. I'll be ordering me a set of those pretty soon - they seem like the hot ticket.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Hi Junktim, and hi guys I'm new to the CP Pro club also. I grew up with a Mattel Vertibird and eversince I've been hooked. I can hover my Pro now for several minutes and feel a real sense of accomplishment when I land without breaking anything. My CX2 has really helped raise my level of confidence especially when practicing nose in. Hey Junktim, I just stuck a little piece of silicon fuel hose to the end of my tail support seems to really help when I land with a little too much tail, keeps it from stabbing the ground. I will say that taking the extra time to make sure the swash is level, blades balanced and trimmed and extra flybar weights, and moving the servo links in one hole makes all the difference in the world for a beginner. I really like the tuning section of LenLutz's site at http://www.lenshouse.net/cgi-bin/bladecp_index.cgi my only problem is the 1/2" distance from the top of the shaft to the swash. When I did this my Pro wouldn't lift off, I know his measurements are based on the head of the CP not the Pro but it's a good place to start. For what it's worth I applied those lessons to the CX2 and now it fly's like a whole new bird.

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Junktim
micro heli make a nice vertical fin that clamps on to the cp tail boom
welcome to the club
Burn
welcome

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

hey there, and welcome to the group!

That's great you're taking it nice and slow. That's the way to do it =) The cx2 gear is slightly smaller, but if you are taking it nice and slow then you should be good to go.

The tubing to hold the blade on is just so that if you crash the blade will pop off instead of breaking. It seems to work ok, but if it bugs you, you can make it more perminant.

If you get the super skids it comes with a little rubber bead that goes on the end of that stick to help it from digging into the surface you are flying on. They also hold it a good 3/8 of an inch up off of the ground with the skids installed. It also has a plastic peice that helps sure up that small CF rod, although CF is pretty tough stuff.

There are alot of add ons that you can get that are beefier, the biggest problem though is they add weight, and are expensive and will break alot of times in a crash. Basically you don't really want to upgrade until you get so you can fly several packs without crashing, with flying nose in, side in, and FF, then you can upgrade all you want =)

Super skids help alot. I have had two boom strikes (one because the tail motor burned up, and one when I had it clamped down to the bench... don't ask how that one happened, because I don't know =P) with the super skids installed, and all I had to do was add a little CA to the boom and I was back up in business. Without the skids, it would have severed for sure.

Let us know if you have any other q's or need any other help =)

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

http://helihobby.com/commonImages/pa...-CP064VF_1.jpg

Is this the one you are talking about? How durable does it seem to be? Did it run you about 12 bucks? Thanks!

RE: E-FLITE BLADE CP PRO
 

Junktim, just a few other things

If you are running flat bottom plasti-blades you will want to step down to an 8T pinion, and also you might want to do the fuse mods and the paper clip mod =) Could save your 3 in 1 which is $50 bucks =)