Lightning Build
#157
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One note on the plans files I have sent out, I used a Staples upload program to create the PDFs. I have come to find out they put some kind of security code on the file so it can only be printed at a Staples store. No big deal for the guys in the States, but I don't know about the guys over seas. Do you have Staples stores? If not I will have to use another method to make PDFs for you guys as you won't be able to print them.
Jeff
Jeff
#158

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ORIGINAL: Mastertech
As I understand it, and I'm apt to be wrong, it has to be external. New rule for this year IIRC.
Tim
As I understand it, and I'm apt to be wrong, it has to be external. New rule for this year IIRC.
Tim
Jeff, fantastic work! I am hoping to see it and you in Muncie

#162
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I made fiberglass tubes to line the holes for the canopy screws. I came up with a new method to make the tubes easier to remove after they cure. I slipped a piece of un-shrunk heat shrink tubing over a piece of brass tube. I then wrapped the heat shrink in fiberglass and soaked it with resin. Once cured, I slid the brass tube out of the heat shrink. I then used my heat gun to shrink the heat shrink, which shriveled up and came right out of my new fiberglass tube. Small lengths of fiberglass tube were glued in around the screw holes, and once cured, sanded to shape.
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Camel65 (07-09-2025)
The following users liked this post:
Camel65 (07-09-2025)
#164
great work man.
im studing plans before start to build it. For a lighter final weight, im considering make wings in structure instead foam, as the "old school".
. what do you think about this?. aplause on first snap?
im studing plans before start to build it. For a lighter final weight, im considering make wings in structure instead foam, as the "old school".
. what do you think about this?. aplause on first snap?
#168
Senior Member
What a great idea for making fibreglass tubes, thanks!
To stop your screws falling out of an upturned cover, I have used small "O" rings on the screw, on the outside of the cover.
To stop your screws falling out of an upturned cover, I have used small "O" rings on the screw, on the outside of the cover.
#174
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From: Eugene, OR
Oh wow man, that thing is really looking beautiful!
I think I am hoping everything goes smooth as much asyouare, to get color on her before Tuesday!
Good luck with the painting!
I think I am hoping everything goes smooth as much asyouare, to get color on her before Tuesday!
Good luck with the painting!
#175

My Feedback: (2)
ORIGINAL: Viper Driver
I made fiberglass tubes to line the holes for the canopy screws. I came up with a new method to make the tubes easier to remove after they cure. I slipped a piece of un-shrunk heat shrink tubing over a piece of brass tube. I then wrapped the heat shrink in fiberglass and soaked it with resin. Once cured, I slid the brass tube out of the heat shrink. I then used my heat gun to shrink the heat shrink, which shriveled up and came right out of my new fiberglass tube. Small lengths of fiberglass tube were glued in around the screw holes, and once cured, sanded to shape.
I made fiberglass tubes to line the holes for the canopy screws. I came up with a new method to make the tubes easier to remove after they cure. I slipped a piece of un-shrunk heat shrink tubing over a piece of brass tube. I then wrapped the heat shrink in fiberglass and soaked it with resin. Once cured, I slid the brass tube out of the heat shrink. I then used my heat gun to shrink the heat shrink, which shriveled up and came right out of my new fiberglass tube. Small lengths of fiberglass tube were glued in around the screw holes, and once cured, sanded to shape.
if you simply put a few coats of wax on the tube, then heat it up to 120 degrees F during the lamination, keep it hot until it is cured... once it cools down, the tube shrinks (coefficient of thermal expansion thing) and then is easily removed...
I would suggest an alu rod as a better mold/mandrel though...



