Be sure to support the rear of the enigne. Whirl effect is not a good thing!

Don't know about the "wonderkind" part, but I can explain the anhedral thingy.

On a straight stab, the center of drag for the stabs is straight out from the root. If you use the same location for the anhedrals, the center of drag is much lower. How much lower depends on the amount of anhedral.

My experiment with this was to mount the tube high in the straight, and low in the anhedral. Will it be enough? I suppose we'll know in about a week. Anhedral stabs are funny things. It's funny that nobody could even tell you what they did until a year ago. On anything other than a plane flying the FAI F pattern, it may be more of a liability than an asset. They do have funny characteristics.

Anyway, I checked out Cameron's Beryll in Ocala last weekend. Neat plane. The lack of stiffness concerns me a little, but I'm sure some creative use of depron would solve that. Other than that, looks like a solid flying plane and of course....it's an Oxai. It would be neat to see one with the anhedral stabs.

-Mike

Beryll issues after 50 flights...

I now have about (50) "Pattern" flights on the Beryll, version 2, with the riveted wings and no former fuselage. A "Pattern" flight is defined as a simulated contest flight, attempting to concentrate with few stops and re-do's. I like the model very much and thought it would make sense to share an odd fuselage issue, my solution and an additional measure I have taken to further improve the fine model.

About a month ago I had the opportunity to fly about (18) flights in a week with temperatures ranging from 44 - 55 degrees. While taking the model apart after the last flight, I noticed an outward "crease" on the right hand fuselage side beginning about where the "B" begins, centered through the word Beryll about 14" long. It looked liked a seam on a sheeted foam core if the bond between the foam and wood failed. The crease appeared to be perfectly straight and there was no evidence of any hanger rash (I have 2 tiny boys...) and other than flying P-07 and F-07, did not recall any odd bumps.

I called Troy Newman, we talked about what it may be, discussed a repair idea and I just took the model from my mini van to the shop where it sat until a week ago. About a week ago, a friend came over to see what I was working on and I finally took the canopy off of the Beryll to inspect the inside. What we found were (2) creases, one along the word Beryll and one across the top right hand side of the turtle deck that upon close inspection on the inside, were located on "seams" of (2) butt glued joints. Careful inspection of the first photo will show a white line as if the cloth was folded...

Not a big deal...really...so how did I repair it:

Troy suggested making a little "woodpecker" device to puncture the cloth on the inside of the fuselage along the crease. The photo shows 1/8" balsa and 3/32 balsa rubber banded along fuselage for shape.

1. Sanded area inside the fuselage with 180 sandpaper.
2. Cleaned area with wax and grease remover.
3. Using the "woodpecker", punched holes all along the seam.
4. Mixed 30 minute Z-Poxy glue and lightly warmed with heat gun AND inside of fuselage.
5. Cut 6" x 2" piece of carbon fiber woven cloth for crease on word Beryll and 1' x 12" 2 oz nylon for turtle deck crease.
6. Using epoxy brush and wooden dowel painted both pieces of cloth on piece of cardboard, removed excess resin.
7. Placed both pieces in fuselage, brushed back and forth lightly heated interior of fuselage.
8. Let cure overnight, removed rubber bands.

Additional bracing:

I have an Oxai-Zeque which is fantastic and in my opinion, is partly due to its' remarkable stiffness, specifically tortionally, between wing and stabilizer. The first Beryll's came with a series of formers installed in the rear of the fuselage. The newest version does not. My orignal intention was to simply add a couple of light plywood formers to connect the rear of the airplane together. What I discovered was that the rear of the fuselage is very strong, it is just that the rear of the fuselage can twist versus the wing tube, at the hatch opening...

So I added (2) Central Hobbies 3/16" carbon tubes from the wing tube to the top of the turtle deck. I prepared the rods, wing tube and fuselage turtle deck edge with sandpaper, wax and grease remover, marked the locations of the tubes and green ZAPED them in place. The fuselage became instantly rotationally rigid. I invested about (15) minutes, weighs just about nothing and went out this evening and flew (3) times.

What did I experience?

Finally, there was just a breath of 55 degree air ( this is Wisconsin) and was fantastic test flying weather. I thought that the rudder was more responsive, the elevator pushes and pulls were more consistent (no stab twist) and the snaps seemed to stop with greater authority. The model "feels" to be more solid. Give it a try!

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service

Hi

I notice you have the in between version, new wing but old fuselage. Design in new fuselage changed in order to counter some of the minor problems you have encountered. New canopy construction and the addition of a nomex former to prevent the flex you were encountering at the canopy. I must say that I also prefer my first version with the formers in the back of the fuselage.

Regards
Burt

i am wondering if there is a distributor for the Beryll here in Australia?

mike

Yes Robert Clarke at RC Models is the Australian agent for Oxai products

John

I find it amazing that with the price tag as it is on these products that there are failures such as the ones you are encountering Rusty. I am not sure how i would handle them if i were the one dishing out the dollars for them.

Chuck

Beryll Flight Reports

Issues when considering the (investment) made...

Chuck,

I believe that the Oxai Models are a value when one considers the total package including the contemporary design, the fit, finish and construction, amount of set-up completed upon delivery, additonal packing crate, airplane covers...

I have owned/had custom built at least (1) model from of the following professional builders Oxai, CA/Hyde, Piorum, Noll, Ten Plus, Hansen, Godfrey and (6) from Dave Guerin. Dave's models have been, by far the most "pilot" friendly and able to be used and flown to their limits as they were designed with little or no maintenance...I have NO time.

The cost to have Dave build a world class model, crate, covers in (6) colors is GREATER than the price of the Oxai when you include the price of a kit (assuming $1,000+ including shipping from were ever to Dave's) and Dave is very busy!

My Beryll is a fine model with a couple of areas one needs to be aware of...not a reason to be disappointed, just an opportunity to make something better!

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service

Hi Rusty

Well said, I think that if one did not have the oppertunity of owning a kit from Oxai it is difficult to explain the quality of the product. I am now the proud owner of two Beryll's (both 2006 and 2007 versions). Most people seeing the planes at first believe they are composite models and not the traditional construction methods (balsa/foam). In the strive to get the plane as light as possible (4,8 kg) it stands to reason that it will be more prone to hanger rash etc. I friend of mine had a wing failure on a leading composite model a few weeks ago, so all planes and manufactures do have the odd problems. Oxai however are continually striving to upgrade the planes to keep up with the stresses of F3A flying. My first Beryll has over 500 flights and no signs of any problems other than the landing gear plate that took some beating as discussed in one of my previous posts. Also the leading edges of the stabs are taking a hamering because of the ground effect caused by the 22X12 props. Be sure to always fly on debri free landing strips. The kit is worth every cent. Attached find photo of new Beryll gas power fuselage

Regards
Burt

Rusty, i appreciate and understand your point of view, i realize that at times the end does justify the cost. I am just somewhat amazed that they are not a little more durable. Planes at times are buit TOO light and fragle to not be able to handle 500 plus flights etc in not so perfect conditions.

Not complaining, just voicing some opinions.

I do like the new Beryll gas airframe, very unique and awesome.

Chuck

Oxai Beryll Flight Reports

The new anhedral stabs have arrived in the USA and are making their way towards Wisconsin. I will be flying with Troy NEwman latter in the month and will make sure to have the new components installed for a detailed flight report.

The simple repair to the fuselage side is holding up perfectly, noting that not ONE single person noticed anything in Chicago last weekend. I continue to believe that the 3/16" carbon tubes have reduced the rotational flexibility that the model had and would probably enhance VIRTUALLY ANY laminated fuselage. I have been moving the battery forward about 1/4" per flight for a total of 1" based on other Beryll owner's experiences...the model continues to groove and "lock-in" better...now if I can just fly more patiently...


Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Parts and Service

Does anyone have a picture of the fuse with this new former. I believe I must have the original version with the internal truss work but I am also concerned with the flex of the tail section. I have enjoyed flying my Pinnacle so much that I have not bothered putting the final touches on the Beryl until now. The Pinnacle is much more stiff in comparison to the Beryl on this issue.

Thanks,
Stuart

i have just ordered a beryll... what sort of control horns, wheels, tail wheel assembly did you use and from which store did you buy them?
thanks for the feedback...

Mike

Hi

Attached find the photos showing the former installed behind the rudder servo. As to the control horns ZN Line sells nice aluminum control horns and I used Mk tail wheel with Terta wheels. (also MK ball linkages) Look at my initial post a few months ago that shows the photos. Some people also use the Hyde control horns and they just fit the mounting plates already pre-installed. As to a store try Central Hobies. I have always only received good service from them and delivery from the USA to South Africa in three days.

Burt

Hi Stuart

Also forgot to mention if you look at the photos I posted, the former for the rudder servos is also much higher up in the fuse than the original version. Almost in line with the canopy bottom compared to the previous version.

Regards
Burt

Hard to believe that small former blocks the twisting. I guess they had to raise the rudder servo tray so you could reach the wingnuts to attach the wing. Mine has the wingnuts up front. Now if they would only move the rudder cable holes foward to make them a straight shot to the servo. The supplied openings are too far back on both my pinnacle and Beryll.

I added a piece of 3/16 balsa as a crutch in the rear of the fuse from the rudder post to the back of the internal skeliton formers which are in my version. It was 13 3/4 inches long and seemeed to help. I noticed that as I would push down on one stab the rear of the fuse seemed to spread. Also the installed former at the base of the vertical stab was split behind the lightening hole. It seems like ity was cut when they cut the hinge slot. I glued a piece of balsa over the cut as well. I guess I will either add a former or try Rusty's trick to stifffen the fuse at the canopy rear.
Thanks,
Stuart

My Beryll fly video
[link=http://www.printmaking.com.cn/upload/toc/电影_0002.wmv]beryll[/link]

i just received my Beryll here in Aus. It is the older colour scheme and came with the anhedral stabs as well as the normal "flat" stabs. The only problem is, the anhedral stabs are not painted or covered at all! they are simply foam cores, balsa sheeted... they have the joining rods installed but thats it. Any one else had the same experience?

also, the top of my canopy is slightly cracked... the packing is spot on so it must have happened before shipping...

I am planning an AXI outrunner for this one. The mounts supplied are a plastic and not carbon fibre like i have seen in some of the previous posts... where did you get the carbon fibre mounting rings?

mike

Hi

Just finished my new Beryll that arrived last week. Note that Oxai has now installed two updates to stiffen canopy section. Former mid way down the fuselage and 5 mm foam support that runs down fuselage. No flex at all any more. Hope to fly later in the week and will post comparison between two models.

Regard
Burt

Hi

Know it is an electric site but attached also find photo of new product from Oxai, the Beryll gas powered version.

Burt

burt
the inside of that new Electric Beryll looks fantastic... i am starting to feel some "buyers remorse" for the one i just received...

Hi

New kit a bit down on quality from my previous ones, the aspect that I do not like is that it now comes with a full composite wing. No more riffets. I enjoy the foam and balsa construction as it at least gives you an oppertunity for some repairs, the second interesting thing is that the composite wing is only 15 grams lighter than the foam balsa wings. So the change in construction does not make any sense. Has any one else out there received the composite wings yet and any comments?

Burt

Hi Guy's,

Do you have pics of you motor cooling air ducts on the Beryll. I just have the two front holes but I don't think enough air is hitting the motor to cool it. I am having soem cooling problems with my motor and am looking for solutions. When I landed yesterday my motor was 70 degrees and my batteries we 60 degrees, speed controller was ok.

Any suggestions.

Thanks,

That is degrees C, I assume?

My first flights( this weekend) I hit 140ish degrees F on the motor (Hacker C50 13XL). I diverted half the air coming in towards the motor and it dropped temps about a good twenty degrees. Battery temps were 106F after a 7 minute flight (Flightpower 5350's) and the measurement off my controller heat sink (Masterspin 99) was around 110 plus. In my case, I have to ask, is the temperature of the controller acceptable or do I need to improve its cooling to? Ambient temps were around 75 to 80 degrees F.

I just did some trial and error cutting of cardboard and then used it as templates for the depron I used. Ain't pretty but it did the job. It just makes removing the motor a little more difficult.

gentlemen

i really need some help with the mounting of the motor.
Everyone seems to have a different way of doing it and from what i can tell, there is noone else near me with a similar plane; so i am by myself on this one.

My kit came with the 3 large plates to support the rear of the motor; i understand how that works.

For the front of the motor, it came with 2 sets of plastic (composite) rings. One of them is quite slim and is perfectly circular in shape. It is about 5mm wide. And for some reason came split in 2 pieces. The second part for the front is a star shaped piece quite a bit larger than the first one and again it is split in 2.

I am gathering that the smaller of the two mounts is a spacer ring. The second one bolts to the front of the motor and has 4 holes in the outer corners but these holes are large and don't look like they are meant to bolt to the nose ring in the plane. I think there are meant to be some rubber grommets that go in the holes and space it out from the front...

any help or ideas?

also, when it comes to pushrods, i bought the carbon rods and 2mm titanium rod ends from Central Hobbies along with all the MK ball bearing clevises etc etc.
But the titanium ends are so long that there is no room for any carbon rod!

Please email me with some advice at:
[email protected]