Beryll Flight Reports?
#77
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From: Garland,
TX
Robert,
Last season: Hacker 50 14XL, Falcon F3A Pro 5300 5s2p batteries. After NATS I tried some TP 5300 5s4p batteries and was favorably impressed.
New things I'm going to try this season: I've purchased a Hacker 50 13XL Competition motor and some Falcon 5000 5s1p batteries (these are similar to the TP eXtreme and Flight Power 5s1p 5000s).
The reason for trying the Hacker C50 13XL Competition is to pick up a bit more RPM. At times last year I felt like I was flying too slow. The new 20-30C cells should help too as they have much lower voltage drop than the TP 5300's or the Falcon F3A cells and from what I hear have more "kick".
Are you going electric Robert?
Keith
Last season: Hacker 50 14XL, Falcon F3A Pro 5300 5s2p batteries. After NATS I tried some TP 5300 5s4p batteries and was favorably impressed.
New things I'm going to try this season: I've purchased a Hacker 50 13XL Competition motor and some Falcon 5000 5s1p batteries (these are similar to the TP eXtreme and Flight Power 5s1p 5000s).
The reason for trying the Hacker C50 13XL Competition is to pick up a bit more RPM. At times last year I felt like I was flying too slow. The new 20-30C cells should help too as they have much lower voltage drop than the TP 5300's or the Falcon F3A cells and from what I hear have more "kick".
Are you going electric Robert?
Keith
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From: The Woodlands, TX
New Beryll has anhideral(sp?) stab, very interesting. Should make the integrated rolling manuevers even better. However, Brett has been very impressed with rolling characteristics of this plane in the standard configuration. I wonder how much of this is marketing and providing more options to the purchaser? Can't say I'm crazy about the new color scheme, but what do I know.
Dentdoc, I think you should have one of each.
Dentdoc, I think you should have one of each.
#81
Yes Keith I am joining the gang and giving electric a try this season. I am planning on waiting till spring to buy batteries, and chargers. I have heard rumblings that a new and improved charger is suppose to be coming on the market in spring so I am waiting to see who has it and the cost.
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From: San Antonio,
TX
Mike, are the current stabs removable.. sorry for my ignorance... if so, one might consider knocking out an anhedral set and trying them on... just for grins and for the sake of science.
and yes, agreed, new scheme.. ewwwwww.
Chuck
and yes, agreed, new scheme.. ewwwwww.
Chuck
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From: Anywhere,
FL
I have another Potentially embarrasing/Stupid question. My Beryll kit came with a section of Carbon cloth & foam tape with sticky adhesive on one side. What are these for? What did you guys do with them?
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From: Barcelona, SPAIN
Hi Dentdoc,
The foam tape sticky adhsive it's for to cushion the contact of the wings and the stabs to fuselage . The section of carbon must serve to reinforce posterior sugecion of the engine.
Regards,
Juan.
The foam tape sticky adhsive it's for to cushion the contact of the wings and the stabs to fuselage . The section of carbon must serve to reinforce posterior sugecion of the engine.
Regards,
Juan.
#85
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From: Anywhere,
FL
Thanks Juan,
I thought so. I noticed the New 07 Beryll has a lot more carbon in the nose than what is supplied with the 06. I am hoping that IF there are any 06 owners out there that installed this tape, they would share the way they did it. Pictures would be great!
Another advantage I see that in doing this they are able to move the canopy hold down to the rear of the canopy. Another cool upgrade for 07 looks like 2 sets of wing hold down points. Looks like a great fix for the flex I'm noticing in the mid section of the fuse & nose.
They also indicated that the Negative stab dihedral is 6 degrees. For those that might want to try.
I thought so. I noticed the New 07 Beryll has a lot more carbon in the nose than what is supplied with the 06. I am hoping that IF there are any 06 owners out there that installed this tape, they would share the way they did it. Pictures would be great!
Another advantage I see that in doing this they are able to move the canopy hold down to the rear of the canopy. Another cool upgrade for 07 looks like 2 sets of wing hold down points. Looks like a great fix for the flex I'm noticing in the mid section of the fuse & nose.
They also indicated that the Negative stab dihedral is 6 degrees. For those that might want to try.
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From: Port Elizabeth, SOUTH AFRICA
Hi
They use the sticky foam between the batteries and nomex and also ply landing gear former to prevent damage to batteries. Will be to tick for wing and stab seating. I used a little bit of silicone for this purpose. As to the flexing of the nose have not noticed this yet. I know that the 2007 version uses a different wing construction to stop the hanger rash as the previous surfaces were very thin. I know some people do not like the new colour scheme but it is very visible in the air. I would suggest that you laminate the landing gear plate at the bottom with some light carbon as the light ply used compresses easy (unless you land perfectly 365 days of the year and have no cross wind landings).
Regards
Burt
They use the sticky foam between the batteries and nomex and also ply landing gear former to prevent damage to batteries. Will be to tick for wing and stab seating. I used a little bit of silicone for this purpose. As to the flexing of the nose have not noticed this yet. I know that the 2007 version uses a different wing construction to stop the hanger rash as the previous surfaces were very thin. I know some people do not like the new colour scheme but it is very visible in the air. I would suggest that you laminate the landing gear plate at the bottom with some light carbon as the light ply used compresses easy (unless you land perfectly 365 days of the year and have no cross wind landings).
Regards
Burt
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From: Port Elizabeth, SOUTH AFRICA
Hi
Further to my earlier post if you look at the picture posted you will see that the Matt's have encountered the same problem I mentioned with the landing gear plate and you can see that they have also reinforced the top section where the nomex and plate have already become weaker (possibly broke looking at the repair). See the first photo. Flying 30 flights a week in preperation for competition will wear the plate quiker than the average good weather Sunday flyer.
Regards
Burt
Further to my earlier post if you look at the picture posted you will see that the Matt's have encountered the same problem I mentioned with the landing gear plate and you can see that they have also reinforced the top section where the nomex and plate have already become weaker (possibly broke looking at the repair). See the first photo. Flying 30 flights a week in preperation for competition will wear the plate quiker than the average good weather Sunday flyer.
Regards
Burt
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From: Anywhere,
FL
Thought I would post some pictures of what I did. I have bridged the canopy hold down area of the fuse so I can use a hatch latch. I want to be able to access batteries quickly in case needed. I have got the spinner gap even closer since picture taken. gap is less than 2mm.
Flying on recommended CG. .3 degree positive on wing. 0 stab. 1% pitch mix to right 2% to left. Goes up & down strait! All flying surfaces index perfectly. Very nice rudder action. Constructive comments welcome.
Flying on recommended CG. .3 degree positive on wing. 0 stab. 1% pitch mix to right 2% to left. Goes up & down strait! All flying surfaces index perfectly. Very nice rudder action. Constructive comments welcome.
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From: Port Elizabeth, SOUTH AFRICA
Hi
Best plane you will fly. The new design changes have taken care of most of the problems you had. I have lost count of he flights on mine.
Regards
Burt
Best plane you will fly. The new design changes have taken care of most of the problems you had. I have lost count of he flights on mine.
Regards
Burt
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From: Anywhere,
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Thanks Mike.
Burt, I don't know if I would call these problems as I bet there are many flying with no carbon on them. I just am trying to be as safe as I can with mine & insure a long airframe life. I think us pattern guys are allways looking to make good --Better!
Time to fly!
Burt, I don't know if I would call these problems as I bet there are many flying with no carbon on them. I just am trying to be as safe as I can with mine & insure a long airframe life. I think us pattern guys are allways looking to make good --Better!
Time to fly!
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From: Port Elizabeth, SOUTH AFRICA
Hi
Have ordered new 2007 version and scheduled according to shipping documentation (three weeks via sea) to arrive early April. Will keep posted on the comparison between the two. The most notable differences at present other than the stabs would appear to be redesigned formers in the back fuselage, improved lamination to prevent hanger rash, wing construction method change and the canopy removal mechanism. I like the new colour scheme.
Burt
Have ordered new 2007 version and scheduled according to shipping documentation (three weeks via sea) to arrive early April. Will keep posted on the comparison between the two. The most notable differences at present other than the stabs would appear to be redesigned formers in the back fuselage, improved lamination to prevent hanger rash, wing construction method change and the canopy removal mechanism. I like the new colour scheme.
Burt
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From: Naperville, IL
Beryll issues...
Dentdoc...I have not sent or made available any photos of my model other than the single "grab and grin" which is posted on my RCU profile due to the model being featured in an upcoming issue of FLY RC Magazine and know that they prefer to share the photos via the magazine first.
Having said that, I have the version with the "riveted" wings and my kit included an amount of carbon cloth which I "centered" on the stock epoxy glass motor mount formers and bonded with ZAP slow epoxy and the formers with the Loctite adhesive. I used a Budd mount and the supplied kit supplied rear mount enlarged to accept medium fuel tubing. I special ordered the 6-32 counter allen head screws from Fastenal (24 hours).
My friend Mike Moritko was nice enough to modify a Great Planes spinner by removing spokes and removing the tip for easy mounting (about 5/8"). It is light and simple but will probably not meet AMA saftey codes due to the shape... Beryll owners know that the thrust washer gap is very small (less than 3/16") so I doubt that any significant cooling is being provided. Having said that on a 70 degree Phoenix day the motor and batteries were 118 degrees F (replacing 3400 mah) after a P-07 sequence minimal additional flying.
I am using the TP 5300mah Pro-lite packs (C50 14XL comp and speed controller) mounted about 1/4" in front of the rear landing gear support. I mounted the RX and TP 910 2S either behind or under the stock rudder servo tray. I added a 3/16" x 1/8" lite ply support perpendicular and on edge to the rudder tray to reduce flexing as well...Brett Wickizer and I measured both of our CG's and are virtually identical although his batteries are 1 1/2 inches behind my set-up (Brett has original version). All Futaba electronics per the Matt's.
I have flown about 18 flights, (6) of which were at a contest, getting the cob webs off after not flying since the middle of September. The mixing is similar to Dentdoc's except I have yet to remove the last 1/32 of "up" trim and have 2%/0% of pitch mix. I expect the mix to increase when the elevator is feathered and expect an additional 1/2 turn of positive in the wing adjusters to execute.
16/18 flights were witht the APC 20 x 15 and the last (2) were with a new APC prop Chip Hyde gave me which is 20.5 x 14. I used it for round six of the contest and one additional P-07 before I went home...it seemed to require 2-4 clicks "less" throttle on stick (12Z) for cruise and P-07 sequence...I purchased a few more today by calling APC directly, sharing Chip's name and asking for "Annie". Chip suggested that it is both more powereful and requires less power to operate...(it is magic).
You can order the new "anhedral" stabs from Oxai-USA which may reduce the pitch mix to zero...$250 expect in 30 - 60 days. Yes, I ordered them. The new version uses the stabs in the current stab location...aero-dynamic wonderkind will explain why one generally changes the location to compensate for the anhedral...
I have enjoyed this thread very much and appreciate all who have contributed.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance
Dentdoc...I have not sent or made available any photos of my model other than the single "grab and grin" which is posted on my RCU profile due to the model being featured in an upcoming issue of FLY RC Magazine and know that they prefer to share the photos via the magazine first.
Having said that, I have the version with the "riveted" wings and my kit included an amount of carbon cloth which I "centered" on the stock epoxy glass motor mount formers and bonded with ZAP slow epoxy and the formers with the Loctite adhesive. I used a Budd mount and the supplied kit supplied rear mount enlarged to accept medium fuel tubing. I special ordered the 6-32 counter allen head screws from Fastenal (24 hours).
My friend Mike Moritko was nice enough to modify a Great Planes spinner by removing spokes and removing the tip for easy mounting (about 5/8"). It is light and simple but will probably not meet AMA saftey codes due to the shape... Beryll owners know that the thrust washer gap is very small (less than 3/16") so I doubt that any significant cooling is being provided. Having said that on a 70 degree Phoenix day the motor and batteries were 118 degrees F (replacing 3400 mah) after a P-07 sequence minimal additional flying.
I am using the TP 5300mah Pro-lite packs (C50 14XL comp and speed controller) mounted about 1/4" in front of the rear landing gear support. I mounted the RX and TP 910 2S either behind or under the stock rudder servo tray. I added a 3/16" x 1/8" lite ply support perpendicular and on edge to the rudder tray to reduce flexing as well...Brett Wickizer and I measured both of our CG's and are virtually identical although his batteries are 1 1/2 inches behind my set-up (Brett has original version). All Futaba electronics per the Matt's.
I have flown about 18 flights, (6) of which were at a contest, getting the cob webs off after not flying since the middle of September. The mixing is similar to Dentdoc's except I have yet to remove the last 1/32 of "up" trim and have 2%/0% of pitch mix. I expect the mix to increase when the elevator is feathered and expect an additional 1/2 turn of positive in the wing adjusters to execute.
16/18 flights were witht the APC 20 x 15 and the last (2) were with a new APC prop Chip Hyde gave me which is 20.5 x 14. I used it for round six of the contest and one additional P-07 before I went home...it seemed to require 2-4 clicks "less" throttle on stick (12Z) for cruise and P-07 sequence...I purchased a few more today by calling APC directly, sharing Chip's name and asking for "Annie". Chip suggested that it is both more powereful and requires less power to operate...(it is magic).
You can order the new "anhedral" stabs from Oxai-USA which may reduce the pitch mix to zero...$250 expect in 30 - 60 days. Yes, I ordered them. The new version uses the stabs in the current stab location...aero-dynamic wonderkind will explain why one generally changes the location to compensate for the anhedral...
I have enjoyed this thread very much and appreciate all who have contributed.
Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance
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From: Port Elizabeth, SOUTH AFRICA
Hi
Could find no JR servo that will fit without having to destroy the finish on the plane, That goes for both wing (servo bay to big) and stab (being to small). Being a JR faithfull had to convert to the Futaba servos. No problems so far.
As to the outrunner the photos posted tell the story, not sufficient cooling because of the small clearance so you will have to build some ducts, which equal weight etc. Will find yourselve over the weight limit quick. New kits are a bit heaver than original versions.
Burt
Could find no JR servo that will fit without having to destroy the finish on the plane, That goes for both wing (servo bay to big) and stab (being to small). Being a JR faithfull had to convert to the Futaba servos. No problems so far.
As to the outrunner the photos posted tell the story, not sufficient cooling because of the small clearance so you will have to build some ducts, which equal weight etc. Will find yourselve over the weight limit quick. New kits are a bit heaver than original versions.
Burt
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From: Bridgewater,
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I have no problem with using the JR9411SA for the ailerons. Will also use 3421SA's on elevator and 8311 on rudder. It's the bottom side of the wing and I see no problem with carefully sealing off the open space. It can be as simple as just using clear 3M trim and decorate tape. Why must we pattern nuts be so anal all the time? <g>
Weight savings is obviously a bigger priority to me.
I have been considering the new updated A60 Hacker outrunner(2 cooling fans?). I just have to wait and see what Dave Lockharts' test results are before I decide on which way to. Also, considering a Neu Inrunner as a possiblity. Seen one in action and they seem to be quieter than the Hacker C50's.
Extraline, all those pictures take forever to download if at all. Just provide a link or thumbnail size pictures that can be enlarged at the viewers discretion. I wish people would stop doing this. It is annoying. Heck they come up as a bunch of squares with X's in them.
Weight savings is obviously a bigger priority to me.
I have been considering the new updated A60 Hacker outrunner(2 cooling fans?). I just have to wait and see what Dave Lockharts' test results are before I decide on which way to. Also, considering a Neu Inrunner as a possiblity. Seen one in action and they seem to be quieter than the Hacker C50's.
Extraline, all those pictures take forever to download if at all. Just provide a link or thumbnail size pictures that can be enlarged at the viewers discretion. I wish people would stop doing this. It is annoying. Heck they come up as a bunch of squares with X's in them.
#98
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From: The Woodlands, TX
FlyF3a:
If I remember you stated you recently ordered the new version of the Beryll. I am curious if the stab location in the fuse is the same as on last year's model, or has the location been changed for the anhideral stab?
thanks
Mike Wickizer
If I remember you stated you recently ordered the new version of the Beryll. I am curious if the stab location in the fuse is the same as on last year's model, or has the location been changed for the anhideral stab?
thanks
Mike Wickizer
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From: Port Elizabeth, SOUTH AFRICA
Hi
Have not received kit yet (due 14 April) but information I received is that the location is on the same place as current model and you can in fact order a set of replacement anhedral stabs for you current model that just slide in.
Have not received kit yet (due 14 April) but information I received is that the location is on the same place as current model and you can in fact order a set of replacement anhedral stabs for you current model that just slide in.
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From: , ITALY
Hy extraline, I'm Albert from Italy...I' ve a Beryll too..
Few question :
The ESC is fixed with normal VELCRO on the fuselage???
I'll use a C50 13XL on it...if I fix it directly to the fuse ( without silentblock )Could have some problem??
Thanks in advance
Albi
Few question :
The ESC is fixed with normal VELCRO on the fuselage???
I'll use a C50 13XL on it...if I fix it directly to the fuse ( without silentblock )Could have some problem??
Thanks in advance
Albi
































