I'll try to send you bunch of pictures I have when I get home this evening. They may help you. This particular plane was set up by Troy Newman. THe only think I added was the Depron air diverters.

OK... everything is mounted and almost ready to go. What sort of control throws is everybody using?

regards

Mike

Rudder all you can get with 70% expo

Elevator - 12 degrees low rate w/ 29% expo/ 17 degrees high rate w/35% expo.

Knife Edge Mix - 6% for up elevator each way.

Ailerons High rate - 15 degrees up/ 13 degrees down ,50% expo

Ailerons Low rate - 12 degrees up/10 degrees down, 45% expo

I am using a JR system. I flip to high rate, all rates on one switch for snaps and spins. I have no throttle to elevator mix for down lines. You may want to start with 2% down elevator mix at low throttle for starters. I use 5 degrees up ailerons deflection for landing. I use no braking function on my Hacker C50 13XL. Prop of choice is the APC 20.5X14.

This is where I am at the moment after 120 plus flights.

out of curiosity, when you run no brake, does your prop simply "windmill" when coming in for landing? or do you put a few clicks of throttle trim in place to act like an "idle" on a glow motor...

I set an idle at about two clicks from dead stopped and fly the whole flight that way. My guess is somewhere between 1000 to 1500 rpm. Sometimes on landing I shut the idle down altogether.

With no brake the prop will just windmill. With brake the prop will stop and help slow the plane down quicker. Some people use a very low idle for landing saying that it will act as a brake as opposed to letting the prop windmill. I didn't find this works on my setup and use the brake (low trim) on all but windy days. My throttle trim is a left sided slider making it easy for me to put on the brake or not.

Stuart

Stu,

How about a flight report on the anhedral stab setup you installed?

As Joe said I put the anhedral stab on mine. I had some trimming issues that I thought may have been due to unequal elevator half tapers. Sam over at Oxai volunteered to replace the stab with one he had in stock which was the anhedral version. (Sam if you are reading this, the original will be on its way back to you this week )

As many have said about Oxai, replacement parts fit perfectly. Even with the anhedral in the stab, it mated perfectly to the fuse.

I probably have about 13 flights on it so far and finally got a low wind say last Sunday to play with trimming again. It seems to be fine and some of the issues I was seeing with the other stab appear to be gone. I can't say I see any significant difference in the rolling maneuvers although I do not do any of the integrated rolling/looping maneuvers that the anhedral stab is said to improve. Is it a gimmick or does it really help? I do not know but I can tell you that just like my first pattern ship a Hanno Pretner Magic with anhedral stab it does get lots of notice at the field

Stuart

Hi Joe

I have both versions, most notable was a 4% reduction in up elevator to rudder mix. Also found that the elevator to be more sensitive making point rolls and rolling manoevres easier. I also increased the wing incidence with a 1/2 turn and now vertical down perfect. All trims now 100% neutral. Is it a mind thing, maybe but to me it feels that the plane flies better. My second Beryll also came with composite wings, maybe this is the reasons. If you visit Oxai web site you will see that the new Naruke plane (Aries) also has anhedral stabs.

Burt

I just may have to invest in an anhedral stab set for my Beryll. I also fly and Xtreme Composites Astral XX with the 4 degree anhedral stab. This plane is very easy to roll. Then again, it flys faster on an OS 140 RX. After not flying this plane for a while, I took it out yesterday and I forgot how easy this plane really rolls. Now I am having second thoughts about trying to sell it<g>

Does anyone knows if OXAI sell anhedral Stabs for Beryll Roland Matt Scheme painting?

I did notice a slight elevator trim change when switching stabs. With the original stab I had a slight amount of up trim in the elevators. Now I have a slight amount of down trim. Could be due to the change to anhedral or simply differences in the stab tips to the stab and where I centered the elevators for the first flights. In any case the elevators are now just below the stab tips. One thing I have noticed is the Beryll is more difficult to stall turn than my Pinnacle. The Pinnacle is easy to try to push the limits with as it stalls very well. Without a crosswind hitting the side of the Beryll it wants to flop. I doubt it is the stab change but I didn't have enough time on it with the original stab to say for sure.

Stuart

Oxai does sell the anhedral stabs and can likely get you a perfect match to which ever scheme that you currently have. My replacements were in stock and matched perfectly.

I've just been told that Oxai has discontinued the Beryl. Does anyone know anything about this?

No this is not true.

The Beryll is still in production. Why would Oxai stop production on a model that is making its World Championship debut this week.

Brenner, if you would like to discuss this issue please contact me offline

[email protected]

Troy Newman
Team Oxai

I must confess to not being a "pattern pilot" but really enjoy flying my Beryll as an advanced electric plane. It is fitted out with Hacker C50 14XL and currently using a 20x15 prop. I have my batteries as far back as they will go; they are up against the plywood bulkhead behind the landing gear plate. Located here, I find I am still using a little downstick to maintain inverted flight and am wondering if I should be making a new longer battery tray to put the batts even further back...

Has anyone had to do this to their Beryll yet?
Also, what props are others using?

regards

Michael

You should be just fine with a little stick pressure in inverted. Some guys are using 21X14's on the same setup you are using. Try the 45 degree upline test and then roll to inverted. Does it fall off fast, climb or pretty much maintains heading?

I am in the process of setting up a Beryll EP and would like some thoughts on which servo's people are using.
My current plans are: JR DS8411 on ailerons and rudder and JR DS3401 on elevator.
This is the configuration of my current IC model and it seems to work well. Using the stronger servo's on ailerons seems to work better, but what are people's thoughts.
My concern with using these servos is that they may use a fair bit more current than the 40ma per flight people are reporting. My hope is to run 2 x 300ma LiPo's with a Powerbox Sensor regulator/switch.
Also, these are all metal gear servos, so there is a bit of extra weight there as well.
Any thoughts.

Glenn

I am using the Futaba servos that seem to have been designed perfectly for the plane. They fit into the cutouts whereas JR servos will leave a gap. Of course, this is only aesthetic and won't affect the performance of the plane.
As for RX battery, at first i used a simple 4 cell 1400 NiMh which I soldered up myself. But now I am using a Flightpower 2S 1320 lipo with a regulator I got from Central Hobbies in the USA. Expensive setup but does look "trick" in the model!

What motor and batts are you planning to use?

Someone earlier suggested to me offline to use the same servos for the ailerons as the elevator.. the throws are not extreme and you would save even more weight. I only fly for sport and fun... I kinda wish I had taken his advice now.

Regards

Mike

Hi Mike,
I am going to fit a Hacker C50 14XL Comp motor.
The batteries are a bit up in the air. Intention is to use FlightPower unless a better solution comes up prior to needing them. Currently Model Flight have the 5350mah Lightweight 10S C17 packs, and a number of the guys are using them quite successfully. The guys tell me they weigh 1150grams.
Also on their web site they have the FlightPower 5350 Evo Lite for F3A, but it says they are not yet available. According to the web site they weigh 1000 grams and if true saving 150grams is a big saving. I intend to talk to Model Flight to see what the story is re them as an alternative.

I know the Futaba wing servo's fit like a glove, but they are only 4.8v and not all that strong, and I think stronger aileron servos to fly P09 would be better, but am open to comments.

Regards

Glenn

out of curiosity, what version is your Beryll?

is it the new yellow green colour with the internal reinforcing in the aft end of the fuselage?

Did yours come with anhedral stabs?

Glenn,

I am using JR9411SA's on ailerons, JR 3421SA's on elevators, and a JR 9411SA on rudder. I draw the typical 40 to 50ma on these servos. I just run a 910ma 2S TP Prolite Lipo on a voltage regulator for the flight pack. I am using the Duralite(Flightpower) F3A matched 5350ma packs which weigh in at roughly 21 oz. each with connectors. My packs are all the way up against the back edge of the battery tray. I am using a C50 13XL on a 20.5 X 14.

2/4/08 - CORRECTION, I MEANT 8411SA ON RUDDER.

Hi Mike,
I have the older colour scheme which is exactly what I wanted. I don't like the green colour scheme, have never liked green on a model. Personal preference.
It doesn't have the anhedral stabs.

Regards

Glenn

Joe,
Thanks for letting me know your setup. It sounds pretty much like what I was looking at. Two questions though:
What weight is your model.
What voltage are you running.

Regards

Glenn

Hi

I had both versions of the Beryll (sold one recently and still flying new version) and would suggest a word of caution on equipment selection as you might find the plane over the weight limited very quikly. I have seen claims of the plane coming out with an all up weight of 4 600, but find this hard to believe. Both my planes at 4920, the older version (sold) with the foam wings initially being lighter than the new version with composite wings. You can save a lot of weight on prop selection (up to 50 grams depending on size), spinner, batteries and switch selections.

I use the following

TP 5000 (heavier pack and you can lose about 100 grams using TP 5300 or new 10 cell pack at 1090 grams)
Futaba servos (9154 and 9650)
Carbon spinner (Genesis version, fits perfect and very light)
TP receiver battery
Digi switch

I suggest the following re-inforcements.

Laminitate the stab leading edge with some clear tape as any stone chip makes quite a mess of the leading edge.
Laminate the bottom of the landing gear plate with some carbon, the ply is very soft and compresses easly leading to the gear having to be tightened regularly and ultimately breaking.
Re inforce the battery plate, after two years the nomex takes a bit of a beating.

Regards
Burt

Hi Burt

What are the Weight of these new composite wings?
Isn't the Wings build up with the "Creative Technics", anymore?