'and there we go' again, Genius:

UltraCote koodi Oracover koodi
HANU825 fluor. transp. red 21-026 fluor. transp. red
HANU826 fl. tr. yellow 21-035 fluo. transp. yellow
HANU835 Royal mint 28-043 Royal mint
HANU840 pearl white 21-016 pearl white
HANU841 pearl red 21-027 pearl red
HANU842 pearl bright yel. 21-036 pearl yellow
HANU843 pearl dark yellow 21-037 pearl golden yellow
HANU844 pearl green 21-047 pearl green
HANU845 pearl blue 21-057 pearl blue
HANU846 pearl charcoal 21-077 pearl charcoal
HANU847 pearl purple 21-056 pearl purple
HANU866 true red 21-023 ferrari red
HANU867 deep pink 21-024 pink
HANU868 smoke purple 21-054 violet
HANU869 smoke lavender 21-055 purple
HANU870 white 21-010 white
HANU871 deep red 21-020 red
HANU872 bright yellow 21-033 cadm. yellow
HANU873 deep blue 21-050 blue
HANU874 black 21-071 black
HANU875 sky blue 21-053 sky blue
HANU876 cocoa 21-081 brown
HANU877 orange 21-060 orange
HANU878 cream 21-012 cream
HANU879 gold 21-092 gold
HANU880 green 21-040 green
HANU881 silver 21-091 silver
HANU882 light gray 21-011 light grey
HANU883 flame red 21-022 bright red
HANU884 cub yellow 21-030 cub yellow
HANU885 midnight blue 21-052 dark blue
HANU886 chrome 21-090 chrome
HANU887 transparent 21-000 transparent
HANU888 lime green 21-042 light green
HANU889 dark yellow 21-032 golden yellow
HANU890 fluor. red 21-021 fluor. red
HANU891 safety yellow 21-031 fluor. yellow
HANU892 sasfety orange 21-064 fluor. orange
HANU893 fluor. lime 21-041 fluor. green
HANU894 fluor. pink 21-025 fluor. pink
HANU895 fluor. orange 21-065 fluor. signal orange
HANU896 fluor. blue 21-051 fluor. blue
HANU897 fluor. power pink 21-028 fluor. power pink
HANU898 turquoise 21-017 turquoise
HANU899 fluor. violet 21-015 fluor. violet
HANU900 fluor. magenta 21-013 fluor. magenta
HANU901 fluor. neon pink 21-014 fluor. neon pink
HANU903 apple green 21-043 May green
HANU904 olive drab 21-018 olive drab
HANU905 corsair blue 21-019 corsair blue
HANU910 carbon fibre 421-071 carbon
HANU911 carbon kevlar 421-036 kevlar
HANU950 transparent red 21-029 transparent red
HANU951 transp. orange 21-069 transp. orange
HANU952 transp. yellow 21-039 transp. yellow
HANU953 transp. green 21-075 transp. green
HANU954 transp. blue 21-059 transp. blue
HANU955 transp. violet 21-074 tr. violet(blue-purple)
HANU964 LITE transp. clear 31-000 light, transp.
HANU965 LITE transp. white 31-010 light transp. white
HANU966 LITE transp. red 31-029 light transp. red
HANU967 LITE transp. yellow 31-039 light transp. yellow
HANU968 LITE transp. purple 31-058 light transp. purple
HANU969 LITE transp. blue 31-059 light transp. blue
HANU970 MAGIC violet 521-101 Magic fantasy violet
HANU971 MAGIC red-gold 521-102 Magic red-gold
HANU972 MAGIC blue-violet 521-103 Magic

Hezik,

You can't buy Oracover in the US unless you buy it directly from Lanitz-Prena. Me giving Joe Oracover color codes is pointless. He needs Ultracote color codes because that's all he can buy here. The colors I told him that he needs are the US names and codes for Oracover. If he goes to his LHS and tells them he wants 21-023 Ferrari Red, they won't know what he's talking about. But if he says he needs True Red Ultracote, they can point him in the correct direction.

You are correct in your statement that they are two different brands. However, one roll that they pull off the line can be packaged as Oracover and sold wherever Oracover is sold in the world, and the next roll of the same exact color that is pulled off can get packaged as Ultracote and shipped to Horizon. It's no secret that they are the same exact thing. Similar to 3W servos being relabled Futaba servos. Nobody doubts that they are made by Futaba, but they say 3W on the top of the case.

I think we are talking in circles and are both right. You haven't said anything that is incorrect, it's just that what you can buy over in Europe doesn't apply to what Joe can buy in Ohio. If I go to London and ask for chips, what will I receive?

I have just ordered the Wind 110 and need some help. I am brand new to electric set-ups/planes and would like to know if it is a big deal to install a Scorpion 4035 vice the Hacker A50-16L. Dave

You should read through the thread. Everything you will want to know is in there.

I have read it from front to back, however, there is an enormous amount of info to remember. I did not see where anyone said if it was difficult to make the 4035 fit or if it just drops in like the Hacker.

It is a drop in. You can install also the back mount if you want. I am running mine without one.</p>

Velco</p>

It is a drop in. My back mount started vibrating and broke, so I stopped using it.

The reason I suggested to read through the thread is that many of these motors are over heating and/or spitting out magnets. My 4035 was gone for close to 4mos waiting for a warranty replacement.

Which 4035, and what voltage will you use?

Hi Joe,

Did you use the 250kv or the 210kv motor?

250kv on 10S w/17x12e prop ran hot and threw out the magnets.

210kv on 10S w/18x12e prop runs cold and flies amazing.

Joe ... looks like I am stuck with the 210KV and should drop down to an 8S set up. Oh well ... more packs to buy.

Thanks for the info on the installation of the scorpion. I was looking at the 4035 series of motors and nowhere does it mention the 210kv or 250kv. Am I missing something.

A 210kV is not a standard version, I think that the guys at innov8tive make on request. The 250kV version should be in standard offer:</p>

http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_25_39&amp;products_id=59 1</p>

I am using 4035-250 with 10S and 17x10 wooden Turnigy Light Electric prop and I am very happy with the performance. Motor was barely warm after 10 min of flight, but to be honest also the outside temp. was very nice, 18C.</p>

Velco</p>

Velco,

I was using the same motor and wood prop as yours with the Turnigy Sentilion 100A HV ESC. But the magnets came off after about 20 flights. It was happened to two motors after about 20 flights, not one. I am in Vancouver, BC, outside temperature in summer is 25-30 degree C.

I'll have the motor re-wind to 210kv. Hopefully it will solve the problem.

paphman

It is correct that the 250kv is a standard offering, and the 210kv is a custom wind. Last time I talked to Innov8tive, it sounded like they were ordering more 210's as they are popular among us. They got more 250's in but I am still waiting for a 210.

One thing to note is that the new generation, i.e. made within the past month, should have a ring molded into the casing to prevent the magnets from pulling out. The last ring was pressed in and did nothing.

Yes, a piece of the ring in my second motor were even broken off.

Thanks for the info, I hope I'm not gonna be that "lucky". I am at some 15 flights so far but I will open it up to check up on the magnets.

What is curious to me is that the explanation from Innov8tive was that it is not the power which we put in is the problem but rather the torque of the large prop created. Well, please correct me if I am wrong, but 18x12 on the kV 210 is pulling more amps than 17x10 on 250 and definitively more torque. So my guess is that 210 is not just a simple rewind but contains some more mods. It would be good if someone can take a picture of the 210 from inside.

Here some of my friends using Turnigy motors had problems with magnets falling out. They glued them back again using Bison glue resistant up to 200C and since did not have any problems.

Velco

I think it's a combination of things - maybe torque and heat. My 250 had a couple of magnets, right next to each other, pull loose. I think it's a problem with the glue. The magnets are rated to a high temperature, but I'm not sure what they use for glue. Maybe it's failing due to the high-ish temperatures. Maybe the higher temps started coming as the magnets got loose and started moving??

The 210 I am using is working well, but who knows if one day it will decide to start spitting magnets. As I said it runs pretty cool so I'm not too concerned.

Again, the new Scorpions are supposed to have the magnets mechanically locked in to the case. I'd like to see a pic of one, and it may really help.

I think the Scorpions are over rated (spec). There is a reason that no other motor will fit and offer the same power - they are bigger for a reason, to better handle the heat load.

I think I will go with the recommended Hacker A50-16L and run it on 2x4000 4cell's. I read through and researched other sites and everyone is happy with the recommended motor.

Well, A50-16L on 10S is rated for 16x10 and we all know how much Hacker is conservative. It would be able to run day and night on 16x10 so for pattern style type of flying also a 17x10 would be OK. Motocalc shows very low excess of trust from the optimal cruising speed for 17x8 but that should be tested. If 17x8 proves to be enough than it is also absolutely in line with how much this motor can take and braking effect would be great! If my 4035 fails I might try A50-16L.</p>

And are you all using low timing on the ESC?</p>

A 17x10 on 10s would destroy a A50-16L in a few minutes runtime.

18x10 on 8s is about the max the A50-16L can swing, the 18x12 already heats it up too much for a long live.

Somewhere earlier in the thread I remember that someone has put a question to Hacker USA and got the answer that 17x10 should be OK. I agree that motocalc shows >180C for a prolonged full throttle for 10S 17x10 combo which is unhealthy. Still a low timing instead of high timing on the ESC can bring this considerably down. I have to admit this is only based on predictions from motocalc and that reality might be different.

I called the US reps for Hacker. They were adamant that 17x10 on 10S is a good place to start with 10S. They said pushing the motor to 2200-2500W is OK. I almost bought one but they were out of stock at that time.

I might play it safe and start with a 17x8 - I actually bought both before I heard the motor was on back order.

What Hezik says is true. I tried an 18x12, a cut down to 17" 19x12w and settled on an 18x10 which actually works best in flight. Anything over an 18x10 will eventually cook the motor. These were APC props.

Tom

Guys,
I've used both the 250 and 210. I prefer the 250, if it could take the abuse I put it thru. Starting with 10s packs and swinging a 18/10E APC.
If you can, run the motor at fast idle after landing for a minute. Do not turn it off when you clear the runway!! I think the thermal soak killed my motors.
If Scorpion can resolve the magnet-retainer ring bonding issue this would be the best value out there.

I've since installed an AXI with great results.