Sorry- treat me like a five year old . So the servos move, but what doesn't? what is it you're calling the CCPM?

The 6EX needs to be set to heli aircraft type, swash type 3-S, then you set the AIL, ELE, and PIT AFRs to get the right direction and amount of swash travel. You may need to set the servo reversing again before you can set the AFR.

I call the ccpm the swash plate, the things that moves to change the pitch - ou + , now what you call the AFRs ? If i make you a video to show you will it help ?

Well now i know. The swash plate is inverted. In idle up, i have full -10 when the stick is totelly up. a +10 when the stick is full down. How can i change that ?

it would, perhaps, but did you set the radio to the right heli and swash type as above? Please verify that the left and right (front) servos are plugged into channels 1 and 6, and the center (rear) servo is in channel 2. That done, then you are halfway there.

Move the right stick (assuming mode 2, North America) to the left and right- if the servos move in opposite directions, you're golden; if not reverse either channel 1 or 6. Then move the right stick fore and aft- if the swash tilts, then you're good; if it goes up and down, then reverse channel 2.

Lastly, push the right stick forward and verify the swash tilts forward. If not change the sign of the ELE AFR- i.e., if it is -60 change it to +60, if it's -50 change it to +50, and so on. Then move the stick left and right; with the stick left, the swash should tilt left, and the stick right, then the swash right. If not, change the sign of the AIL AFR. Finally, DISCONNECT the motor from the ESC, and move the left stick up and down; moving the stick up should increase pitch (all servos move down) and down should decrease pitch (all servos move up). If not, then change the sign of the PIT AFR.

With the above done the radio is programmed. Motor still disconnected, move the left stick to the middle position and adjust the servo to swash links so the blade pitch is zero and the swash is level. You can then proceed to set the AFRs to the range of motion you want.

Thanks Oster.

I've heard a lot about the Kasama head. The thing is, it supposedly wont work with the stock TT woodies and that's what I'm planning to run until I stop breaking things. I tried some Align white and red "Pro" blades but they caused the heli to vibrate a bit. I have a black set to try but haven't yet.

Apparently the Kasama head requires CF blades and I'm not ready to fork out $30.00+ for blades yet since I'll need them often. Then again, my instructor/guru thinks they are a good idea as they do not break as easily from small tip-overs. I'd have to really drive it into the ground and then more than just the blades will be destroyed. Only problem is if I have the Kasama head, I can't even USE TT woodies.

As far as the head, I'm thinking the best/easiest route might be to buy the Thunder Tiger metal head that the SE uses. I don't think it's head is available seperately yet but hopefully when I need it, it will be. I really want upgrade parts that fit/function properly from the beginning. I hate the idea of having to cut/file/bend to make something fit correctly. Too many years doing custom RC models I guess.

In reference to the Sonix parts, can you give me exact part numbers as I'm still having trouble finding them on Helidirect.

Also, why can't I find the Helidirect "deal of the day" stuff? I've looked many times around their website and can't seem to find it.

Thanks!

Dave D.

I would skip the se head and get the kasama. For beginning, you really don't need the metal head yet though it might not break as often when you hit the ground with it. IMO you should be able to get by on the stock head though you may replace a part here or there.

Contact kasama directly if you want to find more info about this but I have heard that they will soon offer 5mm grips instead of the 4.5mm grips that have been standard with the kasama head up until this point. The red and white align blades you tried are the way to go with the stock head. The tt woodies did seem to track easier/better right off but you should be able to get the aligns to track as well also. You will need the TT spacers and I run them a bit tighter than I would the TT wood blades. You may have to make a slight tracking adjustment after installing them but if you simply cannot get them to track I would suspect another problem.

My MT has a funeral this week, I flew it on Monday and had some kind of failure that pretty much so totaled it. I was up about 80 feet or so doing flips and rolls. Ten backflips or so and a few rolls, then I started to pitch for a forward flip. As the heli came vertical (nose pointing at the ground) something failed. There was a quick snap/clunk noise and I lost all control. Could see the blades losing RPM very fast and flapping around. The heli stayed nose down like an arrow and fell all the way to the ground. Impact nose first, almost needed a shovel to get it out of the ground. I hit throttle hold to minimize the damage but it didn't really matter.

The only thing I found of any interest in the inspection was the two links going to the blade grips were popped off. I think one or both came off in flight (though when I popped them back on they still felt very solid). No damage to the Kasama head system aside from a slightly bent main shaft/feathering shaft. Gyro and servos are mostly out back so they survived. My ESC, CC BEC were both destroyed. Everything in front of the motor just crumbled. Motor mount plate bent 90 degrees. Frame is trash, boom is bent, broke one boom support. The radix blades survived, partially. There is a nick in one of the trailing edges but other than that they would have been ok. Trash now though I suppose.

I think the motor survived, and the battery was ejected on impact so that is ok. So much damage to the frame and the rest that its going in a trash can after I pull off the electronics. Funny thing, the heli never chicken danced but the main gear is completely shredded. The gear stripped in flight, or in the fall, when this happened.

Well i had a crash today with my mini titan, broke the landing skids, canopy, bent the flybar and one of the blades struck and bent my tail boom, I was fling in winds up to 10 knots but i was high enough to make corrections, i flew the first battery and landed very smoothly, But the second battery did'nt go so well on the landing, i had a strong gust of wind slam it nose first on my landing approach , it was still fun while it lasted anyways parts will be in tomorrow

Guizmo- set the AFRs as in the third paragraph above and you should be good to go.

Dave- yes, the Kasama is sized for 4-4.5mm grips, which means FG or CF blades. The Align 315/325 FGs work well for puttering around blades, and they're fairly cheap. All of the gray anodized aluminum parts on HD are the Sonix brand. Sadly, HD discontinued the DoD I believe.

Sorry about the crashes, folks. redvtr, it does sound like something malfunctioned in the head in flight. I had the pitch ranges set too high on mine and managed to bang the flybar levers against the grips (also doing flips, unsurprisingly). Mine didn't crash, but it sounds similar to what happened to yours.

Osterizer,

After some careful inspection, I'm believing that is what happened. I was around +11 -10 or so from my best eyeballing on the pitch gauge. There are a couple marks on the flybar levers and a small mark on the headblock where it looks like the grip made contact. I found nothing else that pointed me to that thinking aside from the stripped gear before the thing ever hit the ground.

Its a wash, The whole heli is in the trash can. I was shocked last night when I went through the disassembly. Even my 401 took a whack. I had it mounted underneath the boom in the hole towards the back. In the crash, it broke free and went up into the tail drive. I suppose its off to futaba for the gyro. The servos are ok so thats a positive. All I have left of my mini titan now is the CF tail fin, the stock landing gear, and the kasama head. I kept the screws as well but everything else is in the trash can.

I suppose I'll have to pick up another kit sooner or later.

Got my parts in today and i have my titan back together, I 've noticed there is some vibration on spool up but it stables out at mid stick, i'm guessing my main shaft or my feathering shaft has a slight warp to it ? or maybe even both, i have 2 spare main shafts and 2 spare feathering shafts, I'm guessing the slightist bend would cause it to vibrate, even tho it is'nt visible while spooling up.

You guys think it would be in my best intrest to just replace the main and the feathering shaft and be on the safe side ?

Thanks

You had the Kasama head on it? Wow. Interesting, though- I haven't had a problem with that one. My incident was with the original head. I'll have to recheck my settings before I go out and fly it hard again. Still a shame it got smacked.

Got it

The main shaft was slightly bent so i replaced it and now she's smooth as molasses again.

redvtr100 & Crossfade,

Sorry to hear about your crashes.

I will look further into the Kasama head. My other concern is that the Kasama (or any aftermarket) head will require custom modifications to work. If they come out with one that accepts stock TT woodies that would be great though and I might try it. What is their website URL and who do you guys order them from? I would really prefer to order from a USA company.

Oster, it seems the stock TT woodies fly GREAT for me so far. I will try my black Align wood blades soon and buy some of those FG Aligns to try too though. The white and red wood Align blades made the heli vibrate even after balancing them so I'm just keeping them for emergency.

Update on the MT... I replaced the stock plastic mixing levers (after one broke and caused the crash) with TT aluminum ones. While she was bladeless, I spooled up and noticed quite a shake at low RPM. Turns out the darn flybar paddles were .2 grams different! I added tape to balance them and now spool-up was SMOOTH! (I now remember reading a review where the author said the flybar paddles were out of balance.) Then I decided to add another set of Align flybar weights (my instructor has 4 on his MT). I had one set against the paddles and put the other set about 1" in from the 1st one.

I also added the HRPoly X Visual/Audio Lipo Low Voltage Warning Device.

Took the MT out in the gym today, flew 4 packs great and the HRPoly alarm worked pretty well.

Now I just need to get a couple more batteries. I'm not too happy with the "top of the line" Thunder Power eXtreme V2's. I'm getting less time from 2 of the 3 packs after 12 flights than I did when they were new. The revolectrix pack from FMA however has been AWESOME! I plan to get a couple more along with another 4S charger.


Dave D.

Glad the box blades are working well for you, Dave. The Align FGs are kind-of flexy for hard maneuvering, but they have a decent feel and still give a good pop from collective . The Align woodies I have are OK, nothing special.

Shame the TPXs aren't working out- I have a bunch of ProLites that I swear by, 1320s and 2100s.

Hey Rc David

I seen one of your earlier posts asking about a case for the mini titan,I have one, my Titan and DX7 fit it in pretty snug here is a picture of the [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/Esky-Belt-CP-OR-T-TREX-Aluminum-Carrying-CASE_W0QQitemZ230224101896QQihZ013QQcategoryZ2563Q QcmdZViewItem]case[/link]

I'm using the Red and White 325 Align Woodies and they were perfectly balanced when i got em, My tracking is as true as it gets, i have'nt had a problem with em as of yet, oh and here is the [link=http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=62&products_id=723]Blade Balancer[/link] i use.

Oster,

I'm as surprised as you are about those Thunder Power Li-Po's. I thought they would be "top of the line" and my heli guru told me to buy them when I bought the MT so I did. Hopefully Thunder Power will replace them for me as I don't think they are up to spec. I sent them an email tonight.

As for blades, the only thing I don't like about the TT woodies is the fact that it takes 1/2 hour to prep/cut/glue the grips on and then you have to wait several hours to use them. The holes bored in them to save weight don't look too cool when static either. I would love to find a good blade that is RTF. I will give the Align's a few more tries. Just curious, if I'm not running a high head speed can I use CF blades on the stock plastic head?

Crossfade,

I looked for weeks to find a case large enough for the MT. Only one I found was at an overseas place for $99.00 (+ 95.00 shipping) so went with an Align case that worked with modification. The body has to be stored separately in the bottom (DX7 radio doesn't fit in there anyway) and some foam has to be cut but it works.

I've weight balanced my red and white 325's with a gram scale but I have not bought a blade balancer yet to check balance that way. Then again, since this whole time my flybar paddles were unbalanced, maybe they were contributing to the vibration of the red & white Aligns. I'll have to try them again.


Dave D.

RC David,

As you may have read, there is more going on with blade balancing than just making sure the weights are equal. You don't need a high priced balancer to do the job, a couple of glasses and a piece of threaded rod with two nuts to pinch the blades works just as well as most of the balancers I have purchased since I started with helis. I mainly use the cheapo helimax balancer for blades, for the price it is decent. Check out the finless videos on balancing if you haven't yet seen them.

You can run CF blades no matter your headspeed, I had excellent results with the radix blades but they are pricey. I've got a friend that runs the no-name carbons from helidirect. He tells me they are unbadged hyperions and they seem to fly just as well. I just finished setting up another MT for my bro and forgot how nasty those stock tt woodies are. I would do whatever it takes to ditch them. You will get more flight time (I would think at least a minute more) and it will be much less stress on your electronics. His motor was very hot after I hovered it for setup and tracking adjustments. I immediately yanked his stock blades and gave him a set of spacers and align carbons (the cheap 14 dollar set). Much better after that.

Oster,

Yep, it was the Kasama. Boy did I have to fight to salvage the head from the left over scrap! I couldn't get it off the main shaft without some torch action to heat it up good but it finally let go and now is in a ziploc bag with the other leftovers. The head really stood up to the impact well, I was surprised to not find anything bent. I'll be going over everything real well when I get another kit and reassemble, I'd prefer to avoid another one of those crashes.

One of the things I figured with that head was that if the heli went through a blender, then it would come out as plastic dust and a Kasama head . That thing is built like a tank. I was surprised, though, because the main thing I like about it was increased range over the stock head- I wouldn't have thought to have whacked it that way. It must have been quite a sight. I am going to verify my settings again, just for peace of mind .

My opinion would echo redvtr, Dave- you can use CFs at any speed, and if you're beyond the crash-a-week stage, good ones fly better than any woodies I've tried. However, if you like the woodies, it's not a national emergency that you use something else as long as the heli's flying well and no temp or battery life problems.

I have different blades that I like for different head speeds, but at lower speeds, simple, thick airfoils are best. The blades I like for slower/cruising flight are kind-of expensive, but as long as the blades are well made and balanced they'll work fine; at higher head speeds, I'm a lot more particular.

[:@] Grrrrrrrrrr i'm mad, mad at myself that is, no one else to be mad at but myself becuz it was a mistake on my end, Anyways heres my stupid act, i just got my e325 fixed yesterday flew 3 batteries before it got dark and today i was in the house leveling my swash and was about to spin it up just a tad to see if everything was in balance and i accidently hit the stunt mode and Vooooooooooommmmmm it took off at 80% throttle and ba baaaaaaammmmmmm, dam thing went straight to the ceiling and peaces went in every direction you can think of, broke one of the blades off of my ceiling fan and left a deep gash as it was nawing on the popcorn ceiling, The Align woodies i was using were in a million peaces, luckly the only thing it hurt on my chopper was bent my flybar in a s shape and striped all the teeth off of the main gear, I tore it down and the main and the feathering shafts are fine, just got to put on a new gear and a flybar which i have, bout to put it back together and the first thing i'm gonna do is set all my flight modes exactly the same as normal mode since i don't fly 3d yet, i was right sick to my stomach for awhile but oh well its all part of the experience i guess.

I don't have the stock main gear but i do have the gear for the blade 400 which i got everything to line up and work with a touch of grinding with my dremel to the main frame just under the motor mount, it was one of the corners that i had to grind less then 1/8 of an inch to get the motor mount to slide in far enough to hit the gear but i got it to fit and every thing lines up good with a thicker washer inbetween the main gear and the top gear for the tail.

My question is the blade 400 one way bearing gear has less teeth then the stock one way bearing gear (not sure how many less yet) but will this change my head speed ? will it increase, decrease or stay the same ?

Thanks

It will make it about 7% faster and decrease torque slightly.

Sorry about the mishap, btw. Most everyone has one like that sooner or later- may be better to have gotten it out of the way .

Thanks Oster and red.

I can't believe how quiet my MT is flying! I don't know if I didn't notice at the gym or it was extra noisy at the golf gome the next night but I swear it's quieter now after I balanced the flybar, added a second set of flybar weights and replaced the plastic mixing lever with the Thunder Tiger aluminum one.

Everytime I went to lift off I would raise the throttle and before I knew it, she was in the air with barely an increase in noise. I LIKE it.

Now a few questions...

- Where (in the USA) can I order the Kasama head from?

- Where is the cheapest place to get carbon fiber blades from?

- What is the name/stock # of the "no name" CF's at Helidirect?


Also, red said in a previous post "I immediately yanked his stock blades and gave him a set of spacers and align carbons (the cheap 14 dollar set)."

Red, where did you find $14.00 Align CF's


Lastly, does anyone make a fiberglass or CF frame set to replace the TT plastic one? Just curious.


I am still doing primarily hovering with a little forward/backward/slide-right/slide left practice but am not comfortable yet flying it towards me.


I really appreciate all your help guys.

Dave D.

Is this: <http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...ts_id=5250>

The Sonix head you guys have mentioned?

How is it different from the Kasama head or the Thunder Tiger aluminum head?

Does the helidirect (sonix?) accept the stock wood TT blades?

Thanks.


Dave D.

That's it. To be clear, I mentioned it, but I can't say if it's good or not because I don't have one. I do have the Sonix tail, and it's a nearly part-for-part clone of the OEM tail, but in a nice hard Al alloy with ball bearing pivots- it took some minor adjustment but all in all I do like it.

I can't tell what size the blade grips are from the pictures- it looks like it would handle thicker blades, though- perhaps an email to HD would clear it up?

GrandRC handles a lot of Kasama stuff in the US too