BTW TMan, I forgot to thank you for the link to the store. They had the parts and serviced our request really fast. I decided to do the pinned hinges instead of your tip of cutting the ailerons joints because I had suffered damage on one wing because of a reversed throttle servo, so the hinges helped me "hide" the nasty cut the propeller did, instead of just making a bigger hole. Anyway, thanks for your hints. You've also almost convinced me of buying the Fliteon Edge from your posts at other forums...

Hixx, sorry to hear you have an incomplete magister. We got 4 and all of them where perfect condition kits... Is this your first plane?

Regards.

Javier

Yes, my first plane. The wheels came in the post on Saturday, so I flew....and promptly crashed on Sunday. Man I'm annoyed!
Bent the prop shaft and pulled out the balsa wing mount from inside the fus. Ah well, spare parts will be on order tomorrow.

Hixx, I broke the plastic wing retainer and the wing bolt and pulled the balsa out from the wing retainer nut also. I was able to super glue the nut back in place and then put new balsa wood over it and superglue it down also. This wasn't too tough and works great. I have not been able to find a new wing bolt or plastic retainer strap. Let me know if you find somewhere to buy these. I've been flying by having rigged up a crazy repair with the wing bolt and balsa ply for the wing strap.

Don't know the reason for your crash but will offer that if you are flying with the RTF set up using a nicd or nimh battery pack, there it no warning that the motor is about to cut out and once it does there is no bringing it back as you typically can with smaller motors on other aircraft. Once you get used to the amount of time you have with a given pack you'll want to land before running out of juice as the plane comes down fairly quick and you'll be landing dead stick (one shot at landing). All that said, I enjoy flying mine and find that cold weather actually gives significantly more flying time with the Nicd pack.

Carl

Thanks for the tips Carlrich, I was wondering how I was going to repair the wing retainer. My thought was to add a new piece of balsa to the underside of where the existing is fitted, kinda above the battery compartment and use a longer bolt, though I will probably do as you did as it works OK.
I'm hoping to get the straps at my LHS tomorrow, if not from there from Multiplex directly. I will get more than I need and post you some out if your struggling to find them.

I think the crash was mostly caused by me not securing the battery too well, as the plane handled like a shoe once airborne - really reluctant to turn and when it did wouldnt come out, so Im guessing the pack was moving around at the back where its not held down. Next time Im securing it with a foam bung.

I will post here tomorrow if I find some straps, you can PM me your address if you like.

Hixx, definately let me know if you can get the plastic bolts and wing straps.

The 8 cell nicd pack that came with my Magister has a one inch square piece of velcro on the fronf of it and the corresponding velcro piece was on the front of where the battery slides back into the fuselage. Maybe back just 1/2 " from the front. Has held the battery with no issues. I usually just push the battery in about flush with the opening. CG must be fine as if flies well. You may want to make sure your CG is good and that the ailerons are moving as far as they are supposed to. Just some ideas.
Have you range checked your transmitter? I recently had some issues with a JR6102 and have switched to the Spektrum DX6.

Carl

OK, there on order and should be with my LHS this week. Maybe I will have them for the end of this, or early next. I ordered 3 sets!! - just in case
Have you tried to get some from Multiplex USA?

Hixx, I hadn't tried multiplex other than to find out who there distributors were. I checked with the distributors and they had no part number for the product. Were you able to get a part number for wing hold down and plastic bolt?

Carl

My bits arrive at the shop next Monday and will be forwarded on to me. As soon as they come I will post the PN.
The crash repairs went OK, I think the front mount is now stronger than the back one! I went with your method..THX!

I was checking everything yesterday so that I can fly this weekend, and it seems to me that after installing both servos on the wings, using hinges and configuring flapperons on my radio my throw rates are wrong...

Can someone measure the ailerons throw rates on a stock magister and post them? I should have done that before doing all the mods, but I guess I was too exited and didn't gave it enough importance. [] I'd appreciate if you could give me the rates from neutral position (How much up, and how much down) My ailerons seem to have no problem going down, but going up I get almost no movement (Close to 1/4 of an inch from neutral)

Thanks in advance.

Javier

Elevator:
15mm Up
12mm Down

Rudder:
25mm left and right

Ailerons
15mm Up
No listing for down so assume the same.
This info from the manual on my RTF Magister.

I had wrecked mine (bent motor shaft) and ordered the replacement motor, gearbox, spinner, prop etc Combo.
the new set up made noise and the original was very quiet. 4 flights and the pinion gear on the motor had all teeth stripped completely off. Fine pile of brass in bottom of gearbox.
They are sending me a new combo package from Multiplex/Hitec.
Phone: 858-748-8440 very nice people!

Carl

Thank you VERY MUCH! For some reason I wasn't able to find it on my manual. Now I'm really sure that I have several wrong things. Will try to figure out tonight on what it is. I'll give it a try at removing the flapperons on the radio.

Javier

Will someone let me know if putting a servo on each wing to create flaps makes landing easier? I need to come in pretty fast due to weight and wing area. I'd like to slow that down with more lift from flaps IF it helps. This may also decrease the length of runway I need to get stopped.

Carl

Carl, If God allows it, I'll be able to test the magister with flapperons tomorrow. I'll post my results ASAP. I hope I can reduce landing speed/distance.

I was able to correct the ailerons throw by just changing parameters on my radio, so now I have everything ready. I though I'd get a higher rate with the nylon hinges, but It's pretty much the same as in stock form, maybe just a little bit faster.

Javier

Javier,
can you post a pic showing how you installed your hinges as I want to do mine, but I'm not sure of the best way.

Cheers

Hixx, I'll post the pictures on Monday when I get my digital camera back. (I left it at my office) I used dubro medium size nylon hinges, they are pinned and I used 5 for each aileron. They are spaced almost 7cm each. I just cutted the ailerons, sanded the edge and placed some 1/2 inch deep x 1 inch wide cuts with a cutter on the ailerons and on the wing (Matching the positions), then I used Foam Safe CA (Thick) and installed the hinges to the wing. Be careful not to put the CA to close to the pin on the hinges or to allow gravity to move CA to it, or you'll end with a rigid aileron. I left the CA dry and then applied CA to the hinge on the aileron side and slide them into the aileron cuts. I decided not to use any kicker so that I could align the aileron. The gap between the aileron and the wing ended up at about 2 or 3 mm.

I was able to fly today, even though I was only able to make 3 short flights (5 minute) here are the results of all my modifications:

1.- Hinges,they work really well. I still have the same throw, but they are faster and help to perform better rolls. It might also be caused because I'm using a dual servo configuration, one on each wing... That should help the speed too, but I think that most of the merit goes to the hinges.

2.- Flapperons... I have to admit that I'm very disappointed on this. They had no effect on lowering the stall speed. They had almost no effect, but to make it harder to fly. It seemed as if I lost a lot of wing roll capacity, and gained nothing from it. It was very windy, so I'll give them another try on a better day to see if my perceptions are wrong.

3.- My aluminum home made motor mount broke on my 4th flight attempt, so now I'll give a try at some other materials. I haven't been able to find the Hacker A30-10XL mount on the internet. If anybody knows where I could find a replacement then I'll be very thankful.

Regards.

Javier

Sorry to hear that about the flaps. I just bought what I needed to put flaps on mine so I could slow it down.
By the way, I have the RTF package and have found that 2 cell lipo will fly this plane with very little Amp draw. In temperatures just below freezing it pulls 16 amps and 110 watts static. Flight in this could is NOT spectacular with the 2 cell set up. It reduced weight and will fly a long time but climb is not strong. I believe in warmer weather it should do pretty well. I've tried three cells and that really works well with stock motor. Just happened to have a couple of 2600mah 2 cell I could put in parallel for 5200mah.

Carl

If anyone is considering the brushless/Lipo conversion, my opinion, my all means, YES. Have flown my Maggie stock with stock battery and GP3300, and it is OK. A good trainer, but suffers a lack of power. Finally bit the bullet, and went for the Hobby Lobby AXI conversion. Using a TP4000 from my Voyager E. This plane has become a whole new bird. Now with power, she comes right off the ground, and flight times are over 10 minutes with a bit of throttle management. Not sure how long it will go as I haven't flown it "out" yet. After 11 minutes, decided to bring it back down safely in one piece. While the conversion may not be cheap, I can't recommend it enough for all who are considering it. Now, I'll go after some of the aileron and flaps mods that have been spoken of here. Thanks for the tips guys, there are appreciated greatly.

Rick

Mr. Covey-

I'm looking to hlep my father get in to RC with this aircraft. It mentions in the above writeups that there is some type of simulator included in the package. I understand that it will probably not be on par with RF G3 or Aerofly, but is it adequate enough for general orientation, stick movements, etc? Thanks in advance.

-RME

Alqwad, I would say that the included simulator will help you get a general idea of flying and it will help you on getting used to using the control sticks correctly as long as you don't use the !QUOT!follow plane!QUOT! view. But it is not that realistic as to be able to fly successfully just because you gave it 20 hours.

I found that the Magister movement on the simulator is quite accurate, what is not is the dangerous situations. On the FMS simulator it is almost impossible to stall the magister (You can even do unlimited consecutive loops). Real life, with the stock motor, it is quite easy to stall it for a novice. On real life, as long as you don't pull the elevator stick too hard at takeoff, and let the magister gain speed while climbing then you'll be o.k. The magister can take some hard hits and get away with minor damages most of the times. The combination of this and the simulator should help your father a lot to begin flying. But You can't rely only on the simulator. It would be great if you could get training or have an experienced pilot taking off and landing the plane while your father gains confidence on the air. A friend of mine spent over 20 hours at the simulator but crashed on all his fist two weeks attempts at takeoff, just because of stalling the plane. Some other friends succeeded, just after hearing the recommendation on being easy on the elevator. Anyhow, they all failed at landing.

I'd go for the lessons, or at least for the experienced pilot taking off and landing if you wan't to make this a good experience for him. There's always somebody at the clubs that can either help or give lessons.

Regards

Javier

Alqwad, I've flown alot of planes and like the Magister. I'm actually the training instructor for our all electric club. I totally agree with Javier's comments. What makes it hard to land and take off is the wing area compared to the weight. Yes it has a big wing but it is also just over 5 lbs in the RTF form. Make sure the battery is on full charge and you are going into the wind. Once you get taxiing in the right direction you'll easy on to full throttle and leave it there until you are pretty high as it will need it to climb well. It will climb well with the stock battery I have found. All of my other planes are tail draggers and I am still getting used to this nose wheel plane. It tends to bounce when I land. Others here have more experience with this plane but I find it very important to land with enough throttle that you aren't dropping out of the sky too quickly. I use 400 feet of runway to get fully stopped. There are trees on both ends of the runway forcing me to drop down quickly so I'm sure it's possible to land in a shorter space. I'm converting to flaps in hopes of shortening the distance and speed necessary to land. Javier is right on the money.

I have a couple other Multiplex planes and really like the foam they use as it is very durable for crashes and can be CA glued. The Multiplex Easy star is 1/2 the price of the Magister and has a low weight to wing area ratio so it glides like a dream and lands very softly. You could order the Magister and use the same transmitter, receiver and ESC in the Easy Star for your father to learn on. The plane itself is like $50. Two servos can be had for $10 each. That's a really easy and rugged plane to learn on. I used it to teach my dad to fly. It's been wrecked MANY times but still flies fine. Best of luck to you.
Carl

Carl: you mentioned that you are using the DX6 to fly your Magister. Have you had any issues with the DX6 or the AR6000 recevier (range, control sensitivity, etc.)? I am planning on moving to the DX6 because of interference issues at my field and would really like field input on use of the DX6/AR6000 system in a plane the size of the Magister.

Thanks

Danny

DannyR, No problems with the DX6 in the Magister. I also have an AR6000 receiver and use this radio in a 55" ws balsa 3D plane meant for .40 -.46 engine. I run a Tower Pro 3570 brushless knock off of the eflite 46. Both planes in the 5lb range. Both rock solid control. I still have not figure out why they classify it as a park flyer only Tx. Several forums have very long threads of people testing this tx to crazy distances and in huge planes taken to insane heights with altimeters on board to prove a point. All I can say is it works fine for me.

That is outstanding to hear. Any setup tricks I need to know? I will be using flaperons and if there are any programming things I should know, please share them. Otherwise, enjoy the flying. Oh yeah, I will be using an AXI 2820/12, BP-40 ESC, 3S2P 4200 lipo pack, and an APC 12X6E or APC 11X5.5E depending on current draw.

Thanks again for the feedback

Danny

Guys,

Been following your efforts, and reading elsewhere about flaps VS flapperons...

I think you'll be very dissapointed in the effects that a flapperon (artificial flap) will produce. First, it increases the tip-stall tendencies of the wing significantly, and the aileron is not large enough to be effective as a flap. Flaps apparently need to be large (30-40% of wing chord) inboard sufaces near the wing root to do the job properly without diminishing the roll control and causing too much drag.

Sorry Guys, I know I owe this post since monday, but this was a really tough week at work. Anyhow, today I flew the Magister and the Mini Edge and decided to take some pictures with my cellphone... I hope that you can see the hinges. The picture taken from the back shows both ailerons down at about 50% flaps.

Javier