Tried that Rob.. no luck...Oh well..I'll experiment with other options.. there has to be a reason why a hall effect plugged directly into mine works, but trying the output from the timer board into mine produces nothing..[&o]

Hi gr8flyer55,

What is the output from the hall? 0 volts or 5 volts? compare that to the output from the opto.

What I think the problem stems from is the fact that the new cdi circuit fires as the magnet approaches the hall effect and mine fires as it leaves it. Plugging in a hall sensor to the new cdi and adding the correct wiring to provide power to the board produces nothing on the new cdi, wheras doing the same thing on mine works as expected. I have removed everything on mine that is inline with the trigger pulse from the hall and it still didn't work. Also Rob suggested using a 150 ohm resistor hooked to the led output on the timer board, but on all of mine I get no trigger pulse, no led light, no power pulse of any kind so that didn't work at all. If I directly plug a CH Synchro Spark module into mine where the Hall effect normally plugs in and add the hall to the other end of the Synchro Spark as an inbetween circuit, mine functions great.
So it is a pulse problem. Mine will trigger if I remove the hall and short my pulse wire to ground..not so with the New CDI. There is a major difference between the 2 circuits which I have to work out. Either an inverter circuit with a 7404 hex inverter chip or something else..
Wish I had a scope to trace the signals..might be the key to success.

A fast check will be the LED output.
Between the 2 pins (there are 3, 2 minus and 1 power) a LED with a 150 Ohm resistor and you can see if you have a sparkoutput.
Remove the jumpers and the LED must be flash 300x a minute.
If the LED flash, you can try it with a magnet, don't forget to place the jumpers backon.

I get no flash..that's the problem...no signal no voltage no flash..

maybe it's disabled in my hex file I programmed to the pic chip?

I don't know wat you have done.....
Download the test-file and reprogram the pic ?

I'll try that I guess...works perfectly besides that Rob..ran my 20cc motor with it this morning...purrs like a kitten..

There's no output from pin 10 of pic to T3... tried reprogramming the test chip..no output from pin 10 which is connected to base of T3 thru R2 470 ohm..
Someone else had the same problem..Can't remember what was done to correct it.. I'm having a senior moment I think..[8D]

In the C-code there must be into the first line this txt

void test() { //Generate test signal
while (1){
PORTB &= 0xee; // sends a ground to the SCR gate
Delay_us(56); // send delay 56us scr
PORTB |= 0x11; // ground off the SCR
if (PORTB & 0x04) delay_ms(200); // 300 rpm
else delay_ms(8); // 7500 rpm

If there is no txt like this, you have the wrong version.

It might be a little hard to trigger the gate..but useable

@gr8flyer55

Are all the CDI's not funtion in testmode or only in sparkmode ?
In sparkmode, turn the magnet.......hallsensors react only to North or South.

Hi Rob,

I copied and pasted the code from the new excel sheet and there a few errors in the C code. I have it compiling fine now. On Line 89 the } need to be removed. and on line 81 the ; is missing.

Wat Exelsheet do you use - CDI or TDI ?
A'm working on a latest update for de CDI-version.

Hi Rob,

I was wrong. It is for the Expirmental excell sheet for the CDI. The only thing wrong is 2 ; missing. each after the Delay_ms(56).All is ok now.Thanks.

Rob..
all 4 CDI boards work perfectly...only function that doesn't work is the 3 flash pins near the icp connector..
I can get low speed test 300 rpm..high speed 7000 rpm..and when I put the jumpers back on, it will work with the hall effect and the south pole of the magnet.. All of them also ran my 20cc motor well. Just can't get the flash led to work..no signal coming out of pin 10 on the pic.. I run my motors and adjust the timing manually by turning the mount for the hall effect at high rpm till it misfires, back off till it runs smooth and tighten the screws on the clamps..works great...just like timing a Chevy..LOL

Pin 10 is high if you put the CDI on, no testfunttion or hall switch in.
If the CDI is running, pin 10 will be short low (56us) and Q1 will be conduct - LED will flash

BTW, there are two new Exelsheets on the website.
You don't have to calculate backwards anymore

How do I test the CDI.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJCWWGwa9Cg[/youtube]

Nice video Rob,

So you want the timing to retard s the rpm increases? I thought wanted it to increase as the rpm went up?.

2 stroke degrease at higher RPM and 4 stroke increase.
BUT.....!
If you want some more power in low rpm, you have to set the timing to BTDC + (x) degrees.
If the normal timing is 34 degrees, for a little more power into the lower band you have to set the ignition to 34 +(x) degrees.
If you want more high rpm (no power !!) you have to set the ignition to 34 - (x) degrees.
Becourse you can't do this with normal breakers or magneto-ignition, you need a programmable ignition like a CDI or TCI.
Petrol need some time to ignite, at low rpm there is time enough but at high rpm this time will be very short.
Thats why you have to degrease the ignitiontime.

This is the way I test mopped-engines.....12-13hp / 50ccm

So with the inital timing set to say 34 degrees BTC then how do you keep it from kicking and backfiring at startup?

Rob,

Could you post a little artical on how the timing board is supposed to work? I guess what I need to know is

1) what is the strobe pin for?
2) what does the test hi/low pin need to see to enter test mode? and what is the "Flashling for?... timing light?

Wow that is a cool setup. I like the fuel tank.

At startup, the CDI-timing is 25 degrees BTDC.
The engine start easy with less degrees BTDC as usual.

The strobe send the same signal like the scr output.
Between flash you have to build a LED with a resistor (47-150 Ohm).
Wat you see on the movie is the flashlight.

To test you have switch the CDI off and remove both jumpers.
The CDI will produce 300 RPM.
If you place the jumper near the hallsensor, you get 7000 rpm.
Both jumpers on the board is normal mode, need to switch the board off and on.

Ok so RB1 and RB2 need to see a logic 1 or a logic 0 to enter test mode?Also If I set my timing to 25 Degrees BTC it will kick and possible backfire. What is needed is a delay that will make the engine start at 5 degrees BTC and then once started go to 25 degrees.