Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Or use the single wheel, make a pass all the way across the face with the wheel horizontal, then turn it 90 degrees, make a pass with the wheel vertical...Makes the most agressive knurl, lotsa little bumps sticking up..

captinjohn

I agree with Edwin...Just love this imfo from you guys that like conversions and have all this know-how. I think it like a "engine....Lathe" group. All rolled up on one place. Best Regards to all. Capt,n....P.S. Keep the goos stuff coming!

captinjohn

New Question: Several conversion engines have a flat area with 4 holes taped for a recoil..ect. If this flat surface is placed on mill table with the prop hub pointed strait up...will this give a good setup to mill the prop hub to a true surface? Also If mill cutter is running clockwise..would you turn hub counter clockwise when cutting. How is this done? Thanks Capt,n

captinjohn

I converted a part that use to be part of the recoil starter. If the engine will not hand start with mag....I will install magnet in nice little hub on back of engine..that was a catch for recoil. Hey having a Lathe is nice! Capt,n

Campgems

Capt'n, please explaine milling the prop hub. Are you wanting to face off the prop hub while turning the engine on the lathe??

Don

captinjohn

Campgems: After turning the hub on a Lathe ...face the prop hub while the engine is in a mill, and the hub is on the engine. Crankshaft pointing strait up. I will try to come up with a photo. Capt,n

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Yes...Be VERY careful when turning the hub by hand, if the engine gets loose it will grab the hub and climb up whatever is in the way...You can turn the hub either way....I bolt the engines to a 1 inch steel plate, then put the plate in the vise and use FORCE to tighten it....A thousandth or two at a time will work, the hub is usually straight enough to take only a few tries to get it faced all the way off....

captinjohn

RCIGN1: Please take a look at photo of engine in post 204. I found out the mag is not going to work that well. The amount of stock holding the magnetic coil part is not going to support it good. On the engine you done like this one did you use setup on back of engine for timing or is there a better way. Also will this engine start and run on fixed 28 degree ignition timing? Thanks Capt,n

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

28 degrees is good, all my conversions are timed at 28...Small ones don't kick back hard enough to bother with spark retard for starting...
The ones I did like that were a long time ago, the BC260, 340, and 430 Brushcutter engines...the case looks the same but the magneto setup was different...I cut the crank off in the rear and put my ignition circuit in there, with the spark coil from a G62 on the front like the new G26....Now that you have a lathe there IS a better way...
Check out the front of this G26...See the ring on the case behind the hub ? The hall sensor is epoxied in it, a slot in the bottom..You can see the wire coming out...The front of the case can be machined for an aluminum ring..That one is 1 3/4 diameter and about 1/4 inch thick..Make the hub with the taper in it to the same 1 3/4 diameter at the bottom, and whatever you want the rest of the way, a little longer than the bottom of the thread on the end of the crank..You want enough of the thread sticking out for the nut to hold it on the crank...

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Another one, a little easier to see how it works...The prop hub on this one screws on the threads on the end of the crank...

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

RCIGN1,
Just curious, how do you keep the prop adapter secured. When I look at the short shaft conversions I get uneasy. But I sure dont hear about them coming off. Am I just being paranoid?
Edwin

captinjohn

RCIGN1: For now I think I will try your more easy version. I may even leave the stub on the back. The stub is very short and my ignition will not fit in where the recoil was attached. Thanks for the reply and the photos. Best Regards to one of the Best.....Capt,n MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Green Loctite 680 stud and bearing mount on the threads...The normal rotation of the engine tends to keep it tight if the Loctite should ever get hot enough to loosen...Takes over 400 degrees...The green Loctite on a 4-40 carb disc screw holds so well that the head of the screw will twist off before the Loctite loosens...

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

You can make more room in the case if you cut the crank flush with the bearing and use a sealed bearing in place of the open one with a seal on the crank.Then you can mill out the part of the case where the seal was.....NTN and NSK brand rubber seal bearings work, most others don't seal well enough...

captinjohn

RCIGN1: Forgot to ask. The high speed needle is missing on the HDA carb, that is on the Red Max engine. Will most or any of the Hi-speed needles in that size of carb work. How about Hi speed needles in other walbro carbs? Thanks Capt,n

captinjohn

Guys: Have any of you tried this style of cutting tool and holder? Thanks Capt,n

Campgems

Capt'n, they are great tool holders and bits, but not for you. The carbide puts to much strain on a small lathe. It needs twice the surface speed and a lot deeper cut than HSS tools. IE lots of Horse Power. It also has a second issue in that the carbide is very brittle. One screwup setting the feed and speed and you have carbide flying. At $5 a pop or close for good carbide bits, it can be a very expensive learning process. Having gone down this path, I highly recommend HSS bits that you grind to shape yourself. Just grind the ends to the general shapes of the chart, and for $5 to $10, you have the full range and if you dull a bit, you can re-sharpen it.

captinjohn

Campgems...thanks for explaining about that type of tool holder and inserts. Believe me I am going to do just what you say. The High speed steel bits are working good for me so far. I bought 2 from Grizz that is already shaped and ready to go. They do work nice...now that I have them on center. I am looking to purchase a dial indicator that will work good without breaking the bank. Is .001 good enough for the conversion work? I see a few in the $15-$20 range. It might be best to buy one with magnetic base included...to save a little. Boy this stuff sure does add up quick! Best Regards, Capt,n

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

Harbor Freight has a dial indicator on sale right now with a magnetic base...

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

I agree with the HSS bits. You can grind them hard and they retain their hardness. Plus you can use a hand diamond file to really lap that edge in. I also have been happy with cemented carbide bits. You can grind them pretty well also. I have bought many used HSS and cemented bits from Ebay. Paid like 20 bucks a while back and I have a life time supply I bet. Most looked brand new and I don't feel bad about grinding special ones as needed.

captinjohn

rangerfredbob....What is the stock no on that Dial indicator & Base? Is it on-line or catalog? Thanks Capt,n

Campgems

Capt'n take a look at Enco's MN890-9934, which is a dial test indicator and NM625-1340 which is a 1" indicator both come with magnetic bases. Take a look at page 58 and 59 of their current "Hot Deals" catalog. You will find a link on their front page,
Use-Enco.com

I've delt with them for years and their quality is good, prices are good, shipping is very quick, and their customer service is good. Just don't buy a set of their economy telescope gages, they are not domed correctly and you get bad readings on small holes. There, I suggest going to Ebay and picking up a set of lufkin, starrett, or Brown & Sharp. The used ones, unless they have been bent or rusted, are better than any of the imports that I've seen. They are priced better also.

Don

captinjohn

Campgems....If evrything goes right....I will have em in a few days. Thanks Capt,n

tim220225

My Feedback: (4)

I agree with the comments on Enco. They advertise in Home Shop Machinist and Machinists Workshope magazines. Every month they have free shipping on orders over $99.00. Once you start buying from them you will get email specials and they almost always have free shipping on a minimum order.

Campgems

Actualy, they are the back door of MSC. Some of the stuff is the same as what MSC sells, only at a lesser price. I found this out a couple years back when I was using a lot of the little 1" face with 0.250" travel. Enco got a batch in that was different than the last ones, and they were just enogh different that I couldn't use them. One pass through their Customer service and they sent me another dozen of the same ones. I found the MSC sold them also and I talked to their Customer service and they "hand picked" from their supply and shipped them to me. They had the same stickers on the box as the ones I had bought before from Enco, just $5 a piece more. I did a Yahoo Maps lookup of their address's and they are back to back in a block in Fernley NV. A little more checking and I found that Enco was bought out by MSC a few years back.

You always want to check their "Hot Deals" catalog before ordering and if what you want is in there, use that item number vs the one you find in their yearly catalog or on the web. There is quite a difference in the prices some times and if you use the standard item number, you pay the standard price. I found that out yesterday when I was ordering some metric drill rod. Rather than look up the price in the HotDeals catalog, I just used the item from the web search. before I sent in the order, I went through the Hotdeals and found that the ones I wanted were on sale, and I saved over 40% on some of them just by using the correct number.

Don