SPE 40cc
08-07-2007 | 02:33 AM
#76
RE: SPE 40cc
ORIGINAL: bjor
Hi Royster. You will love the SPE 40. I ordered one off ebay a few weeks ago to put in a CMP Yak 54. The engine is great with the walbro carb set up. Mine started straight from the box with a 30:1 mix and have since changed to a 40:1 mix with great results. I ran about 2 litres through the engine on the ground before first flight. The initial maiden had the engine "popping" but it gets better and better every flight - just run it rich to start and lean out a bit each flight. I have a 4.8V 2500mah sub C pack on the ignition - works fine with plenty of flying time. Also - make sure the plug cap is fixed firmly on the plug. Mine kept falling off until some tight fisted bloke shoved it all the way on properly - hasn't fallen off since. The only problem - my standard side sounded muffler fell of in flight so now I'm waiting to order a new one. USE LOCK TIGHT as already suggested by grossy. I'm also changing to a Hitec 645MG servo for the elevator - don't want to rick the nylon gear ones. Best of all - $1.20 a litre to run. Now I can fly all day without having to folk out a fortune for nitro.
Hi Royster. You will love the SPE 40. I ordered one off ebay a few weeks ago to put in a CMP Yak 54. The engine is great with the walbro carb set up. Mine started straight from the box with a 30:1 mix and have since changed to a 40:1 mix with great results. I ran about 2 litres through the engine on the ground before first flight. The initial maiden had the engine "popping" but it gets better and better every flight - just run it rich to start and lean out a bit each flight. I have a 4.8V 2500mah sub C pack on the ignition - works fine with plenty of flying time. Also - make sure the plug cap is fixed firmly on the plug. Mine kept falling off until some tight fisted bloke shoved it all the way on properly - hasn't fallen off since. The only problem - my standard side sounded muffler fell of in flight so now I'm waiting to order a new one. USE LOCK TIGHT as already suggested by grossy. I'm also changing to a Hitec 645MG servo for the elevator - don't want to rick the nylon gear ones. Best of all - $1.20 a litre to run. Now I can fly all day without having to folk out a fortune for nitro.
What kind of electrics setup have you got in the Yak?
eg. battery, switches etc.?
08-09-2007 | 06:59 PM
#77
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
RE: SPE 40cc
We went through the electric stage but gave it up - if you don't smell of fuel at the end of the day it just dosn't feel right
I brought the Yak second hand in "as new" condition and it came with the servos installed. It's less than 7kg's RTF so a heavy permit is not required. I have Futaba 3010 on all the control surfaces except for rudder where it has a Futaba Hi torgue metal geared digital servo (cannot remember the number). I'm going to replace the 3010's on the elevator with HiTec 645MG's. I have two battery packs - 1 x 2500mha sub C 4.8V on the ignition and 1 x 2400mha 4.8V pack for control. I also have 2 x JR on / off switches with charging sockets in the fuse - one for ignition and one for control as well as a kill switch fitted internally connected to a servo for killing the ignition (in case i loose throttle control). Any good quality 2 stroke oil would be O/K - if it's good enough for dirt bikes it's probably good enough for planes. That's about it. I'll post some pic's when I get the chance.
I brought the Yak second hand in "as new" condition and it came with the servos installed. It's less than 7kg's RTF so a heavy permit is not required. I have Futaba 3010 on all the control surfaces except for rudder where it has a Futaba Hi torgue metal geared digital servo (cannot remember the number). I'm going to replace the 3010's on the elevator with HiTec 645MG's. I have two battery packs - 1 x 2500mha sub C 4.8V on the ignition and 1 x 2400mha 4.8V pack for control. I also have 2 x JR on / off switches with charging sockets in the fuse - one for ignition and one for control as well as a kill switch fitted internally connected to a servo for killing the ignition (in case i loose throttle control). Any good quality 2 stroke oil would be O/K - if it's good enough for dirt bikes it's probably good enough for planes. That's about it. I'll post some pic's when I get the chance.
08-10-2007 | 10:01 PM
#78
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From: Chewelah, WA
08-11-2007 | 12:04 AM
#79
RE: SPE 40cc
Yep, but haven't run it yet as I am still at the building stage of my Extra 260.
08-11-2007 | 01:33 AM
#80
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From: , AUSTRALIA
RE: SPE 40cc
HI GUYS SETTING UP A SPE 40 CC IN A QQ 73' YAK AT THE MOMENT TO SE HOW IT GOES GOT A 26CC GOOD LITTEL MOTOR XJET IS RIGHT NO TOWER PRO. HITEC MG THE GO I USE STILE OIL ON RUN IN THEN GO 3W SYNTHETIC OIL MAY GO 2 CELL LIPO ON IGNITION FOR WEIGHT 6 CELL FLIGHT PACK [8D]
08-11-2007 | 01:57 AM
#81
RE: SPE 40cc
ORIGINAL: GRIBBS
HI GUYS SETTING UP A SPE 40 CC IN A QQ 73' YAK AT THE MOMENT TO SE HOW IT GOES GOT A 26CC GOOD LITTEL MOTOR XJET IS RIGHT NO TOWER PRO. HITEC MG THE GO I USE STILE OIL ON RUN IN THEN GO 3W SYNTHETIC OIL MAY GO 2 CELL LIPO ON IGNITION FOR WEIGHT 6 CELL FLIGHT PACK [8D]
HI GUYS SETTING UP A SPE 40 CC IN A QQ 73' YAK AT THE MOMENT TO SE HOW IT GOES GOT A 26CC GOOD LITTEL MOTOR XJET IS RIGHT NO TOWER PRO. HITEC MG THE GO I USE STILE OIL ON RUN IN THEN GO 3W SYNTHETIC OIL MAY GO 2 CELL LIPO ON IGNITION FOR WEIGHT 6 CELL FLIGHT PACK [8D]
Sorry mate not having a go at ya just didn't quite get what you were sayin'
Whats a QQ Yak? and is the 26cc engine in the Xjet a SPE as well?
What kind of prop are you using?
08-11-2007 | 06:59 PM
#82
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From: , AUSTRALIA
RE: SPE 40cc
No worries mate qq model air craft for the 40cc. http://www.somenzini.com/html/aircraft/yak73.html .
I have a 26cc which runs well
xjet post 69 about tower pro servos.
Hawker or bolly props 26cc 17x8 . the 40cc 18x8 to 20x 8 still runnig it in
I have a 26cc which runs well
xjet post 69 about tower pro servos.
Hawker or bolly props 26cc 17x8 . the 40cc 18x8 to 20x 8 still runnig it in
08-13-2007 | 11:30 PM
#83
Senior Member
RE: SPE 40cc
For you guys in Australia, this is where I got my SPE 40cc
www.rotor.com.sg
Walter has a good price, and his prices are in Singapore Dollars.
Cheers
Grossy
www.rotor.com.sg
Walter has a good price, and his prices are in Singapore Dollars.
Cheers
Grossy
08-20-2007 | 06:35 PM
#84
RE: SPE 40cc
ORIGINAL: pianori
I am getting both a 42cc and a 50cc from China next week in. I will test both engines in an attempt to see if I can make them better, or to see how reliable they are. I will be checking for vibrations, crank shaft balancing, check low rpm & high, midrange transition, the ignition system, the carburetor, muffler quality, casting quality, parts and support available etc. I will be doing a full evaluation. Once I figure all the bugs out and ways to improve it there is a chance that I might import them and rep them. I am working on this now as we speak.
I am getting both a 42cc and a 50cc from China next week in. I will test both engines in an attempt to see if I can make them better, or to see how reliable they are. I will be checking for vibrations, crank shaft balancing, check low rpm & high, midrange transition, the ignition system, the carburetor, muffler quality, casting quality, parts and support available etc. I will be doing a full evaluation. Once I figure all the bugs out and ways to improve it there is a chance that I might import them and rep them. I am working on this now as we speak.
Any updates on the engine testing??
Still haven't started mine yet as I am waiting for props and my Futaba servos. Will try and start the engine when I get the props just to be sure it runs
Thought about the test bench thing but haven't got the test bench. Besides starting it in the plane (without wings and other servos) will give me an idea how much vibration is going on and if there are any rattles in the fuse. Sounds good to me anyway
08-21-2007 | 04:16 PM
#85
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From: Palm Harbor, FL
RE: SPE 40cc
My spe40 has been in the air 3 times now. runs extremely well. instant starts and perfect idle. Probably have about 1 hour on it so I expect it to get even better as time builds. If my wife had not threatened me with several unpleasant penalties I would buy an spe26 so I would have an excuse to build another big plane. I don't supose my ww2 fighters taking up the family room and a 105" Jenny in the living room and my other stuff in the spare bedroom has anything to do with her attitude.
08-21-2007 | 08:04 PM
#87
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From: baltimore,
MD
RE: SPE 40cc
Nothing makes a home look better than aNEW plane! Roy ever seen or heard of this engine?[link=http://rcchina.com.cn/oscn/product_info.php?cPath=48&products_id=189]website GS65cc[/link]
08-21-2007 | 08:15 PM
#88
RE: SPE 40cc
ORIGINAL: flyboy1961
Nothing makes a home look better than aNEW plane! Roy ever seen or heard of this engine?[link=http://rcchina.com.cn/oscn/product_info.php?cPath=48&products_id=189]website GS65cc[/link]
Nothing makes a home look better than aNEW plane! Roy ever seen or heard of this engine?[link=http://rcchina.com.cn/oscn/product_info.php?cPath=48&products_id=189]website GS65cc[/link]
Nope never heard of it. Looks cool though and the price is right.
65cc, what would you put it in? It would be a model of similar pricing/quality.
I wouldnt buy a Comp ARF and put that in it, only a DA.
08-22-2007 | 09:03 AM
#90
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From: , MI
RE: SPE 40cc
well my spe 40 has not yet run on my first attempt to start it,i tried for over a hour and i got a few burbs out of it thats all i gave up when me and my buddies arm iwas about to fall off,any suggestions?
08-22-2007 | 09:47 AM
#91
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From: Palm Harbor, FL
RE: SPE 40cc
You have to choke it till wet. check for pin holes or slits in the fuel line. If you can, borrow an electric starter. the first time we started mine we borrowed another field box, made a jumper out of the plugd on my spare glow starter by cutting them off and twisting the stripped ends together. then we jumpered his black to my red and plugged my sullivan dynatron into his red and my black. the engine fired right up. after the first start and run for a minute it started easy every time. we went through the exact thing you did till we put the electric starter on it. You do not need a gear reduction for the spe40. any 12/24volt glow starter will work. you just need 24v for power. I bought a box that holds two of the little 7amp rc batteries and use it for everything now. even still use the jumper made that first day. just put shrink tube over the twisted joint in the middle. It is easier if you get a 2" spinner from valleyviewrc.com and drill the cone out to 10-32 (drill the 10 first then a little larger for the screw head) and the plate to fit in front of the prop with the prop washer in front of the plate and then the bolt. it is already drilled 10-32. here is a pic.
08-22-2007 | 06:20 PM
#92
RE: SPE 40cc
ORIGINAL: philreuman
You have to choke it till wet. check for pin holes or slits in the fuel line. If you can, borrow an electric starter. the first time we started mine we borrowed another field box, made a jumper out of the plugd on my spare glow starter by cutting them off and twisting the stripped ends together. then we jumpered his black to my red and plugged my sullivan dynatron into his red and my black. the engine fired right up. after the first start and run for a minute it started easy every time. we went through the exact thing you did till we put the electric starter on it. You do not need a gear reduction for the spe40. any 12/24volt glow starter will work. you just need 24v for power. I bought a box that holds two of the little 7amp rc batteries and use it for everything now. even still use the jumper made that first day. just put shrink tube over the twisted joint in the middle. It is easier if you get a 2" spinner from valleyviewrc.com and drill the cone out to 10-32 (drill the 10 first then a little larger for the screw head) and the plate to fit in front of the prop with the prop washer in front of the plate and then the bolt. it is already drilled 10-32. here is a pic.
You have to choke it till wet. check for pin holes or slits in the fuel line. If you can, borrow an electric starter. the first time we started mine we borrowed another field box, made a jumper out of the plugd on my spare glow starter by cutting them off and twisting the stripped ends together. then we jumpered his black to my red and plugged my sullivan dynatron into his red and my black. the engine fired right up. after the first start and run for a minute it started easy every time. we went through the exact thing you did till we put the electric starter on it. You do not need a gear reduction for the spe40. any 12/24volt glow starter will work. you just need 24v for power. I bought a box that holds two of the little 7amp rc batteries and use it for everything now. even still use the jumper made that first day. just put shrink tube over the twisted joint in the middle. It is easier if you get a 2" spinner from valleyviewrc.com and drill the cone out to 10-32 (drill the 10 first then a little larger for the screw head) and the plate to fit in front of the prop with the prop washer in front of the plate and then the bolt. it is already drilled 10-32. here is a pic.
Have you got any pics of your fuel line setup? What system are you running?
I am looking at a 2 line system with a "T" connectors, but what stops the fuel running into the carb and flooding it during top ups?
I was going to use a valve as thats what I have on my glow planes but was told not to on gas planes. (of course I'd buy the valve gasoline fuel)
08-22-2007 | 06:44 PM
#93
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From: Palm Harbor, FL
RE: SPE 40cc
I use three lines. top line is vent. comes out the front, clockwise around the tank and back to the front then through the firewall and out the bottom of the cowling. this is so if your plane is nose down the fuel will not run out the vent and cause a fire or mess. the second port on the tank is a single line out to a fueler. make sure it is gas rated(red). this line has a klunk inside to defuel if you choose to. the third line is klunk to line through the firewall, inline filter and direct to the carb. attached is a pic of the carb and fuel lines. the one is from the tank and the other is on a blind nipple and goes to the fueler. in an emergency I can switch the two carb lines and I am back in business. such as the main ckunk plugging up or filter plugged. fly the rest of the day and go home and fix it.
08-22-2007 | 08:44 PM
#94
RE: SPE 40cc
ORIGINAL: philreuman
I use three lines. top line is vent. comes out the front, clockwise around the tank and back to the front then through the firewall and out the bottom of the cowling. this is so if your plane is nose down the fuel will not run out the vent and cause a fire or mess. the second port on the tank is a single line out to a fueler. make sure it is gas rated(red). this line has a klunk inside to defuel if you choose to. the third line is klunk to line through the firewall, inline filter and direct to the carb. attached is a pic of the carb and fuel lines. the one is from the tank and the other is on a blind nipple and goes to the fueler. in an emergency I can switch the two carb lines and I am back in business. such as the main ckunk plugging up or filter plugged. fly the rest of the day and go home and fix it.
I use three lines. top line is vent. comes out the front, clockwise around the tank and back to the front then through the firewall and out the bottom of the cowling. this is so if your plane is nose down the fuel will not run out the vent and cause a fire or mess. the second port on the tank is a single line out to a fueler. make sure it is gas rated(red). this line has a klunk inside to defuel if you choose to. the third line is klunk to line through the firewall, inline filter and direct to the carb. attached is a pic of the carb and fuel lines. the one is from the tank and the other is on a blind nipple and goes to the fueler. in an emergency I can switch the two carb lines and I am back in business. such as the main ckunk plugging up or filter plugged. fly the rest of the day and go home and fix it.
Very nice and well thought out
As they say theres more than one way to skin a cat
I'll stick to the 2 line system for simplicity as just spoke to a guy at Desert Aircraft, who are just around the corner from my house. So Line from tank to T connector and and to a fuel dot with filter in the carb line and the other line as a breather.
BTW something I didn't know was the Desert Aircraft ignition systems are made here in Brisbane Australia! Mmmm, wonder if they work on SPE engines
Will post some pics when done.
08-24-2007 | 07:38 PM
#97
RE: SPE 40cc
ORIGINAL: grossy2
Thanks for the heads up Xjet.
Check out these stock # at Tower; GP Velocity Stack LXJ775, HS-625MG LXUZ87, HS-645MG LXUZ89 and you mite want to look at these switch's, EMS Heavy duty DSC switch LXONU3.
Dont forget the Tygon fuel tubing, Gas stopper for tank and neoprene tubing for in the tank (Remains flexable).
Grossy
Thanks for the heads up Xjet.
Check out these stock # at Tower; GP Velocity Stack LXJ775, HS-625MG LXUZ87, HS-645MG LXUZ89 and you mite want to look at these switch's, EMS Heavy duty DSC switch LXONU3.
Dont forget the Tygon fuel tubing, Gas stopper for tank and neoprene tubing for in the tank (Remains flexable).
Grossy
Hey Grossy
How did you go with the velocity stack? I noticed Eric has on his GP Extra. I bought one as well and had to use the same bolts as the ones supplied by GP are the wrong thread, plus I used different spring washers.
I have noticed the choke doesnt close 100%, maybe 95% due to the velocity stack. I dont think its going to be a problem as the half choke setting is fine and the full choke setting will aslo be fine to prime the engine. I thinks [&:]
Should finish up the tank and plumbing today and going to the LHS to buy an APC 18x10 to run the motor in (with about 4lts of fuel)
Got my elevator servos but still waiting on aileron, rudder and throttle servos.
[8D]
08-24-2007 | 08:47 PM
#99
RE: SPE 40cc
ORIGINAL: blw
RoysterDW,
The message about another engine was deleted for solicitation in the thread, which is also hijacking. Thought I would add this since you answered the deleted message.
RoysterDW,
The message about another engine was deleted for solicitation in the thread, which is also hijacking. Thought I would add this since you answered the deleted message.
No probs blw
Thanks
