Zippi..I would be interested to know how the elbow works in actual flight...I have a problem with the G-45 slobbering a mist of fuel across the wing, that may be an answer if it operates well in flight..

I'd like to know also eugene, I've only ran it on the ground so far. I guess you could say it's acting like a super charger were it's forcing air into the carb. The 26cc sounds really strong on the ground with the elbow installed. I'll post the results of how it ran in the air tomorrow when I get back from the flying field.

Ram air scoops usually work if you have ONE throttle setting.... because the mixture isn't varying at the same rate as the ram pressure. Ram pressure varies immediately because it is in the prop blast (varies) and the airspeed (also varies). I've done these and ended up with lean runs big time, great on the ground because it's more or less static. In the air, completely different enchilada.....

Now, with the ram pointing REARWARD, it's a different deal altogether.

I'll be interested in reading your report, too, zippi. Hope it works for you!

(P.S. - it sounds strong, and is turning high r's PROBABLY because it is leaner than it ever has been. Did you measure the head temp after that ground run? Remove the plug and check the ceramic color? May want to check that... )

Thanks for the info aerobob. I was pretty sure it would change in the air and for the worst so I thought I'd set the high end just a little on the rich side but if you have already tried this then I may be wasting my time. I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Nothing else has worked so far.

If it does work, that is major info, and a good test!!! Could benefit lots of folks.... glad you're giving it a try.

aerobob,

I pulled the plug and checked the color of the ceramic on the plug and its a tan color and black around the outer bottom surface of the plug. I'm really hoping this works so I can get some serious flying in . I don't know why I'm the only one having trouble with air flow. Jstanton has the same plane with the 25cc and has no problems and plenty others were the velocity stack sticks outside the cowl. I'll just keep plugging away until I figure it out.

what about not running a velocity stack at all?

Either that, or cut it to act more like the ones on the 25GT? It's just plastic, or at least mine is.

I've now got my 26ss mounted to the firewall, and now in the process of cutting my cowling out.

Zippi - can you post a pic of your setup inside the fuse? I'm wanting to get a good idea of where to mount everything for decent balance.

Personally, and NO offense meant to anyone (and yes, I've shared this view with Scott).....

Angled intake tubes, called "stacks" are not induction rams. They have no venturi. They either create turbulence at the butterfly, or PREVENT turbulence at the butterfly. They either increase power, or they do NOTHING. They keep the plane cleaner, or they make it more difficult to choke. Or maybe easier to choke.

Point is - post a poll in the Gas Engines forum about the benefits, and I'd bet a broke prop that the results will only tell you about people's "beliefs" on these things. They aren't a gimmick; I'm not saying that.

ZDZ designs and sells true "intake Trumpets", that are installed on their REAR intake motors (means carburetor intake is inside the fuse) and those things DO make a difference. They also are a true venturi shape that has been engineered.

A piece of round tubing of some length (BTW - all "stacks" seem to be the same length, regardless of the motor they are installed on. Would make one wonder about "tuning", no??) stuck on the end of a carb just gets in the way in most motors. Vast majority of guys aren't gonna carve up a cowling to have a piece of tubing stick out. I won't, anyway.

Like I said - this feature is a "belief system".... for some it is "gotta have", for others, a "who cares"..... if it makes a difference on your motor, and you like it, then it "works", and is "needed". If not, well, you're in the same place as about 95% of the other gas engine owners....

I took some pics of the inside my fuse adrenalnjunky but right now the server for RC Universe is not letting me upload any pics. I'll try later.

Bob - I'm kinda with you on this, and wouldn't be opposed to taking the 26's trumpet off and not cutting the hole in my cowl if performance remained the same- but, the Zama carb doesn't have a choke - Is there a good way to choke this engine without having direct access to plug the carb opening?

Oh, and I'm still wondering what the difference is between my 26 and Zippi's - why the line running out of the carb goes to the fiber block on his, and to the crankcase on mine.

RCU won't let me upload a pic - so I'll link to it instead:

Chris, the easiest thing is just a simple metal (or plastic) plate/disc that you can rotate over the hole. I've know of guys mounting a weed whacker metal choke plate (Ryobi's used that for years, I think), then actuating the tap from the front of the cowl. You just reach in there and push it over the hole when needed. You can make it fancy or plain, but anything will do, heck almost penny soldered to a pushrod lever would work.

Differences in where the carb needs to sense the pulse from the crankcase could explain it. Many Walbros do not have external pressure pulse fittings, and have holes in the base that have to align to the spacer and holes from crankcase. I wouldn't be concerned.

adrenalnjunky,

Looks like your getting close to getting her in the air. This plane flys so smooth and landings are a breeze. Do you plane on leaving the velocity stack off? I've tried every configuration but without the stack and I may have to try that tomorrow if the 90 degree elbow doesn't work. The air passing over the carb plays a big part in whether the engine will run right or not. I can get the engine to run fine if I leave the cowl off but when the cowl goes on it goes flat in the air no matter how you tune it.

I'm probably going to cut the cowl for the stack and include it at first.

It seems weird that removing the cowl makes that much difference, since the stack itself protrudes from the cowling. I know a couple of guys that just finished maidening new planes with gassers - maidened them with the cowls off, and after a few flights, they put the cowls on - each time they had to retune the carb. I believe tha they had to richen them. Maybe the cowl was trapping air at a higher pressure and forcing more into the carbs - 2 engines were brison 2.4's and one was a Hot-rodded G62.

You think that the air coming in the opening in the front of the cowl is pushing through the opening for the veolcity stack and causing a lot of turbulence? Where's a wind tunnel when you need one.

Zippi, you're not alone in having turbulence problems. My 25GT still goes rich in the air and I have already run a static line from the carb backplate into a "balsa box" so I know there is no turnbulence there. The only other place it can be is the velocity stack and I have left it on because I need to choke the engine to crank.

I think I will try turning it backwards to see if that will make a difference. Lately, the weather has kept me from doing much flying, maybe in a day or two I will try.

The copper elbow looks good, what is keeping it in the stack? Certainly some impressive numbers, rpm etc.

Larry

ljones5000,

I used a dremel tool and sanded the copper elbow down just enough to have a real tight fit. With the plastic makeshift piece I used I tried turning it around on the velosity stack and it made the engine run worse. I'm going back out to the flying field this morning to do some experimenting and see what I can come up with.

adrenalnjunky,

The pics of inside my fuse are now posted about. RC Universe fixed their upload problem.

Hey guys,

I just read this whole thread and wanted to clear up a few points that were incorrect in this thread so there wouldn't be incorrect info out there.

#1 The new 60cc is a few oz. heavier then a DA not lighter as 1 or 2 people said. Not that this is a problem.. DA is a super light engine and a couple oz. isn't really going to make a difference

#2 The 60 is not an industral chainsaw engine as one said.. its a purpose build 3 part cnc'd case which has some nice design features.

#3 Since they out sourced the cnc work there are more costs involved in selling / building this engine so you can't expect the prices to be closer to the smaller Brillelli engines. All that was involved in the other engines is a lot of manual work converting and lightening the engines and therefore was easier to keep the prices so unbelieveably cheap. Either way the 60 is less money then other 60s on the market and you will get better customer support with Scott than anyone else out there... how much is that worth alone?

Anyhow.. I just wanted to make sure information was as correct as possible

Here is some weight info that may interest you guys

http://www.rcaerobats.net/GAS_ENGINE_WTS.htm

Is the green foam next to your fuel tank your Ignition battery, or the Ignition module?

It must be, because the wires from his front switch are running in there, but I'm just guessing.

Later,
Omaha

.

adrenalnjunky,

The green foam next to the fuel tank is just green foam to hold the tank in place. My EI box and battery are in the engine box.

I have great news about the 90 degree copper elbow. When I got to the field this morning it was very windy and no one there but me and the runway. I left the settings where they were the night before when I was getting over 9000 rpm but it wouldn't run right so I tweaked on it a little and got 8800 on the top end and a nice idle at 2200 rpm so I thought that was good enough to try in the air. I taxied out to the runway and fired it up just to see how it would react. Everything looked and sounded good so I came back, got lined up, and poured the coal to it and was expecting it to go flat just after left off but it held the rpms and flew just great. Now, here was the test. I got lined up with the runway and cut the throttle to idle just to see if it would die and it held the idle fine so I did a touch and go and it climbed out with a lot of power. I flew 8 flights at around 7 min each and all were just as good as the first. Only one problem now, the choking method I had no longer works with the 90 degree elbow in place. Without being able to have my finger straight inside the stack where I can feel the fuel as I'm choking I don't know how many flips of the prop because it wont work by turning the prop over 4 - 6 times anymore. I was using my fuel tank to shoot fuel in the carb with the hand crank and flooded it a lot today and it took for ever to get it started. Thats ok....at least now when it does start its a screamer . I had to change out the wheels that came with the plane because thay were all eat away on the inside and sloppy on the bolts so I bought new low bounce tires a little taller and wider and new 5/32 X 2 axles and now its nice and beefy.

Zippi, I'm impressed with the way your 26 is turning out. Since you have run both, I was wondering if you would give us a comparison of the 25 and 26 in terms of performance, power, stability, etc. I have the 25 and I'm not contemplating a change, just general curiosity. The engines are virtually the same size and it seems they should be very comparable in operation.


Larry

First off, They are two totally different engines. The 26cc is smaller in phyical size than the 25cc and it generates about 1000+ more rpm than the 25cc from what I have seen so far. since it's smaller in size it also weighs less than the 25cc. The 26cc seems to run a lot smoother with less vibration. Both engines seem to tune the same way but the 25cc was a whole lot easier to start. I have not yet figured out a good way to choke the 26cc and get it started quickly. Any time you can get a lighter engine with more power, thats the way to go. I'm going back out tomorrow and tweak on the 26cc to see what it will do with this new setup I have on the velocity stack. I was getting 9300 rpm at one point in my garage one evening and I'd sure like to see that again if I can get it tunned just right.

Engines are just wierd sometimes. One day I went out to fly and my engine ran perfect, turning 8400rpm (the most it ever tached). I thought my problems were over but next time out it was back to burbling in the air and it would barely reach 8200rpm without any adjusting on my part. I'll give it another shot today, maybe it'll be a good day. You're right about the easy cranking on the 25GT...I had a hard time cranking mine at first but now it starts easily.

Go figure.

Larry

I ran my NEW 40cc yesterday.... what a sweetheart, just like all of Scott's motors. I had asked him to get a choke carb for it, and he did, and that made starting really easy. Like the 25, 26, 46, this one (SPE-based, of course) has to be "juicy" to start, but also has a transition and smoothness that is pretty darn good.

tnorris - if you're out there - tell me where you installed stuff in the fuse of the W/H 73" Edge with the Brillelli 40 on the front, please? Mine had the firewall/engine box moved back, so needed longer standoffs, but it worked out.

Will do some pics later, but this thing looks BEAUTIFUL on the front of that Edge... Almost like they were "made for Each Other"

(BTW - Scott has posted his info on the 60cc on his website.... a helluva value for what is included for the price!!! Can't wait to get mine!!!!!!!!!!!)

Like I said, wierd. Today I only flew two 10 minute flights because I forgot to turn off the receiver battery after the second flight and only discovered that after an hour of b.s. ing with the guys. I decided not to chance another flight, I don't have a field charger and only a 500mah battery pack on the Edge.

Anyway to the point: the engine ran perfect both flights, never sputtered end to end and was turning well over 8400 when I tached it before leaving for the day. It's really just now getting "broken-in".

Larry