Sewerdude - put a Xoar, NX, or JXF on there AFTER you fly the PT, and come tell us what you like.
My PT props are now expensive paint stirs..... and available for cheap...

NX 22 x 8 from Airwild R/C. Nice props with true diameter and pitch. Seems to fit my application nicely.

I'll try those Bob. I like experimenting I did see where Airwild sells NX props, never tried those. Might give them a try. Whos got a good price on the Xoars?

thanks fot the info guys I will stay away from the tbm props I did try the vess and its a great prop just trying to cut cost Bob what or who makes a pt prop. thanks the runner

Ok, Bob you talked me into it. I just ordered 2 NX 22x8 props from Airwild. One for my Da and one for my DL

If you don't like them, I'll buy them. Seriously.

Quick question....?

Is the NGK CM-6 plug that comes with the motor a resister plug??? I didn't see an "r" indicator. If not is it worth it to put a resistor plug in it or does the ignition do a good job of keeping the noise down???

Thanks,

Ed

No. Definitely should stay with CM-6, IMO.

I am currently breaking in a DA50R on my Aeroworks Python and have just purchased the DL50. I am running a NX22X8 for break in on the DA and will do the same with the DL. Price is good from Airwild also. They are great people to deal with.

ok guys here's my engine setup,it is all done but i still need to figure out where to mount the gas filler tubing,any ideas on that?i have a fuel dot,something very simple but i think it should work just fine,i just don't know where to mount the fuel dot,i also need to get a couple hose clamps to keep the hoses and wires in place,will probably make a trip to the hobby shop,by the way can the DL 50 be broken in with a 20x10 prop since i already have one?

i wouldn't want to buy two different props,i think im going to go with a 23x8,as for the pictures,you may not see it but the ignition is mounted on a small platform and has some vibration isolation padding,it is from a gel insole for women's shoes,very good for this application,i had them laying around since the wife didn't like them i put them to good use i had a real good idea for isolating the ignition but i don't have a whole lot of space there,i was going to suspend it with four low tension springs mounted on a piece of either G10 or lite ply,should work great for the plane that has plenty of room for it,here's a ruff sketch of the isolating platform

Looks good.
You may want to wrap your ignition cable to the plug with the larger plastic wrap if it came with some. I can't see it in the picture if it is there. Both of my DL's had some included to protect the shielding on the wire. You can see it in this photo..

yea i am going to use the plastic wrap on it,i had it on but i took it off to work on it,but yea is looking good so far,i had a hard time with the cowling seems Great planes made it about 1 or 2mm shorter but i moved it around till i got a good fit on the plane,it only extends about 2mm on top of the planes nose,4mm would of been great but what can you do?i didnt want the spinner to extend too far forward

Good looking install, there! Good job.
I would not go to a 23 x 8 from the 20 x 10... more like a 22 x 8....you'll be much happier when it's new and producing better thrust without overheating. A 23" is a lotta load when new.

It looks like the carb is to close to the fire wall, you you may need to cut out around the carb intake.

oh no!!! i was afraid of that,i would really rather not cut the firewall but i guess i wont have a choice,ill try it like that and see how it behaves,ill cut around the carb if i have to but we'll see,how is everyone suporting the ignition wire?im really having a hard time finding the wire clips for the spark plug wire,i thought about making my own out of either wood or plastic stock cut me a big enough pice to make a wire holder then make a hole and cut across the hole to split into two and that way it will hold the wire,epoxy one half to the firewall and put the other half over it to make a complete clamp,any ideas?the LHS doesnt have anything,i went to Radio Shack and they dont have anything i can use


Thanks for the compliments Bob Pastorello,ok so then i can get me a 22x8 prop to break in the engine and fly as well till the engine have a few gallons through then figure out if i want to go to a 23x8,thanks for the advice

If your looking for wire clips, try the local auto parts store. You should be able to find some in different colors for a little bling.

i tryed the auto parts store,home depot,and radio shack,no luck,they have a few clips but not what i was expecting to find,i'll keep looking or i'll figure out something

Try to find the little plastic mounts that go on automobile valve covers that holds the spark plug wires in position. They have *those* for certain at the local auto parts store.

Just digging through my propellors and found my 23X8 NX Also found a new 22X10 NX. I was planning to switch the 22X8 onto my DL but found a Master Airscrew scimitar 22X8 that I had drilled for my DA. Are the Scimitar Airscrews really terrible? I would assume that they are not the best bet for performance since I haven't heard any mention of them on the thread. Just wondered if anyone had broken there engines in on one of them. Also, is anyone using the 22X10 NX instead of the 23X8 NX on their DL after break in and on what airframe?

The scimitar from MA is at least a propeller... it will rev up pretty good, but thrust can be a little disappointing because it is so narrow on the outer 1/3 of the blade. It would definitely be a good "flying break-in" prop, no doubt, unless you have it on a high-drag airframe. I'd use it before the 22 x 10, simply because it will let the engine breathe easier.

I would just switch my 22X8 NX onto the DL but I still need another gallon or so through my DA before I am going to install the 23X8 NX. I figured the Scimitar would be low on the pull meter. They also are fairly flexible which can't be too good. Also, I was going to reserve the 22X10 for the after break in period. Just wondered if a certain style of flying would warrant the 22X10 over the 23X8 since the prop load would be mathmatically the same. I would imagine the speed would be greater with the 22X10 for a better execution of certain maneuvers but is this correct? Would a monoplane flying IMAC benefit from the 22X10 over the 23X8 or is it all personal pref? Sorry for all the questions.
Kent

J-Tech wire clamps - three different sizes...

Okay Geppino (BOUND 4 HELL),

I dumped my 50/60:1 gas into the gas tank in my van and mixed up a new batch of 80:1 (Amsoil Saber). Got in three flights today. No problems. Engine ran great. Checked temp immediately after each flight and the highest reading I could get pointing the meter at different spots on the engine head was about 170 degrees - about ten degrees cooler than before. One of my budies at work just broke in his new DL and is runnng 80:1 as well.

Sounds great!

Tim

Tim - did you tach the engine prop before/after your oil/ratio change? Curious if there was a power change noticeable.
The pic with the wire clamps looks beautiful, btw. I wish my stuff looked HALF that neat....

Thanks for the compliment Bob.

Actually, I don't think I picked up any RPM. I've been turning around 6,600 all along. This sounds low compared to what other guys are getting, but the engine runs fine. Maybe it's the prop? I'm running a Xoar 22 x 8. A friend is loaning me his Mejzlik 22 x 8 that I will try. (I was already running a Mezjlik before, but just for like a day as I nicked the tips the first day out!).

And the engine seems to be running so well I'm afraid to mess with the needles much just to squeeze out more RPM when it's already running so well.

Tim