If there aren't marks on that housing, it didn't slip. That is very soft stuff. I honestly don't know where the "factory" timing location of the sensor is; I've never re-timed mine or adjusted one on the DL. The bracket is slotted, so if it slipped there would be scoring from the screw head/washer, I think.

The old pin is about 0.5mm in length. Hence the rotation. I did not know where the other part of the pin went (if it ever existed).

On the new piston, the pin is of almost the same length as the depth of the groove.

IF anyone has a "stock" DL 50 muffler that is a "leaker", or has cracked downtube welds, leaky flange weld, end caps leak.... I would like to "practice" repairing these... so... email me direct, please. All you need do is pay shipping both ways, and provide feedback about repair. Let me know via email or PM **only**, please.

Bob are tig welding them?

Repairing.

Eugene: is that a carbon fiber 22X12 or wood, have you tried any other props?

Where is the best price for a DL50? Thanks, Capt,n

Hi Andrew

On every sensor I have removed there is a slight mark/indentation in the plastic from the flat washer heads of the screws that hold the sensor in place.

As a starting point, I find looking down at the sensor the edge of the plastic sensor bracket is ~ 0.5mm (from memory) from the centreline on crankcase. I will double check that measurement and email you.

Hope that helps with a starting point. Let me know how you get on tonight.

Cheers

Scott.

EDIT - Typo on oreintation of motor/sensor

THere is more to it than price - you know that.
In the US, it's either DL USA or Valleyview, IMO.
Nowhere else matters.

Bob...Your right on...I shhould have asked where is best service with a good price. Best regards Capt,n[X(]

Hey Andrew

Heres pics of the default sensor position as from DL Factory. Pic from bottom & from side.

Cheers

Scott
DL Engines and Hobby Australia
www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop

How do you check the timing on these engines, and what should the timing be?

28' , no more than 30" Use a degree wheel and the spark plug.

The instructions for the RCXCEL Igniton have a degree wheel you can print out to use, and a description on how to check for TDC etc.

28-30 degree max at TDC

You can download manual from RCCDI website http://www.rccdi.com/ or we also have available at http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/do...ignitionv2.pdf

Cheers

Scott.

Thanks Scott. Good info.

Your're welcome.....

I did not mean not to mention. Good info really. Thanks

Hey guys weather permitting i fly my GP extra 330s this saturday I got it balanced tonight and can't wait. Wish me luck this is my first 50cc gas aerobatic plane. I have checked and rechecked everything that i can think of. And the DL is run like a beast. It should climb at half throttle and hover at less than that. I am running a 23A Vess and 32-1 lawnboy ashless. any thoughts thats some of you guys who have been here wish they had know before the first flight??? Will post flight report after the maiden.

A couple thoughts.

1. Don't let others goad you into going. Take it up when YOU are ready.
2. Don't rush on anything. Don't let anyone distract you from checking stuff BEFORE.
3. Even if you checked it at home... check it before T.O.
4. You've checked control travels, directions, but do it before takeoff.
5. MOST IMPORTANT - if something - ANYTHING - looks, feels, or acts "weird", DON'T FLY it. Find it and fix it.
6. See 1.

Did you have the rudder servos in the tail and if so did you need to add any weight to balance it?

Was wondering where you guys have your high and low needles set at? I maiden my EF Yak over the weekend and started out about 1 1/2 turns out on the low end, roughly 2 turns out on the high end , had great transition .Got it up in the air, rich as ever. Brought it down , tweaked it lean atad, took it up again. Still very rich. I did this 6 times. Still rich as can be around the 1/4 - 1/2 throttle. I'm not sure where I'm at on the low end. The high seems ok, getting just over 7000 rpm with a 22x8 prop. Yes, I'm using 32:1 gas mix. Thought maybe you guys could share your settings and see if I'm on the right track.

Settings vary a lot, but both of mine are about 1.25 turns on low, slightly less on high, 22 x8, Pennzoil 32:1

Yes i put the rudder servos in the tail and the ignition battery is on the forward servo tray and the 2 6volt receiver batterys are near the second rib past the hatch ending

Hey Skillet.

I've maidened about five of these now (a few for work and a few of my own). I can't think of much I wished I did differently, but here are some minor sugestions;

First of all, this plane flies wonderfully, so, other than taking normal precautions (start with the check list in the back of the manual - C.G., throws, range check, etc.), don't get wound up and know that this is a great plane to fly and though aerobatic, on regular high and low rates it is very confidence instilling. You'll be "at home" with it right away.

Okay, onto a few suggestions;
1. Once you have all the controls centered, it might be a good idea to give it a click or two or three of "up" elevator trim before taking off. This way, once you break ground with the application of "up" elevator, and when you release the stick, it will gently climb. What you are doing is making sure the model will need a bit of down trim instead of the other way 'round. Otherwise, if the model needs up trim, when you release the elevator stick the model will unexpectedly dive somewhat. You don't want this during your first takeoff. Understand?

2. A few mechanical things;
A. I found out that replacing the 5/8" screws that hold on the canopy hatch wtih longer, 1" screws will make the hatch more secure. You should use a small drop of threadlocker on the screws, but also using longer ones will help insure that the hatch stays put.
B. Sooner rather than later, I recommend gluing on the canopy rather than using the six wood screws. Over time, the wood screws, if not installed perfectly, can cause the canopy to crack around the screw holes. I used thin CA to glue on my canopy, but use care not to let any excess CA run or drip onto the canopy.

3. The C.G. doesn't seem to be critical on this plane, but for peace of mind, and to insure surprise-free first flights, set the C.G. and throws according to the manual.

4. You're using a DL, right? Set the timer in your Tx (or on your wrist watch) to 12 minutes. This is a good, conservative start and will allow a few minutes for landing if you can't get onto the ground after the timer goes off.

Well, nothing earth-shattering here. Just a few of my ideas.

Let us know how it works out.

Tim

KRPROTON, I understand the up elevator. I would rather it climb than drop. And the longer screws with a little threadlock thanks will do. My canopy is siliconed in place because of the problems i have had with my GP Super chipmunk. and yes i am using a DL and 10-12 was all i was going to do the first time because i don't know how its going to land. You have flown a couple any bad tendancies that i need to watch for. Does it land slow or have to be fast and does it snap with excess control imputs???


Bob one of the reasons that i like the field that i fly at is because of the guys that are there. They will encourage but never try to push you into flying. They are great to bounce ideas off of. And since i am the first at or field with a DL they can't wait to see it