Yeah man it's cheap enough for such a nice engine. I'll pay the extra. Also Valleyview RC has a tech guy that helped me rotate the carb over the phone and spoke about other things on the setup and break in. I rotated the carb per his instructions and it ran great. I'll buy my next one there thank you.

Hey FOOPED
Could you please tell us where you found the prices on the Cyclonetoy.com website?
I didn't see any prices, do you have to log in/register for the prices to show?
The DL Engine Canister Muffler Sets look interesting! How much?
http://www.cyclonetoy.com/list_1.asp?id=1408
Due to my location, I bought my DL from Hobbycity just over a year ago, hasn't missed a beat!
Also got some bits and pieces for it with good service from DL Australia.
SK

Spadkun you have to set up account and place order and Ada will e-mail you back with price per order. If you are intending on buying several items send the inquirys all at the same time. Ada will give you shipping altogether this way. You will save some big bucks. Oh and I also got my DL-50 from Hobby City. Runs great just like any other DL-50.

A buddy and I bought two from Valley View RC last week. Great guy to deal with. I got mine going yesterday and am very impressed. Great in every way. Very easy to tune and smooth from idle to WOT. Tached at 7100 rpms on a xoar 22x8. Very good numbers. I can't wait for good weather to get in the air!

Anyone know if the JXF props sold by Valley View are any good. All thats available at my LHS is Zinger and I want to try something new. And the front prop wahser that comes with the engine can be used as the drill guide can it not?
Thanks, Shane

JXF is the mfg for JXF & Xoar and a couple of more known brands.

http://www.xoarintl.com/news.html

JXF props are good but wood compresses a lot after tightening the prop bolts. The Xoar seem better to me. Maybe a little harder wood.

You can use the prop washer as a template...not a drill guide. You'll just end up cutting the soft aluminum washer with the drill. Just slip the prop on the shaft...then put the prop washer on and use it to mark your holes. Then drill on a drill press. Works fine if you are very precise at marking holes and drilling.

I'm using JXF props, works good. Tom @ valleyview will drill it for you-no extra charge.

I have been using Vess props for some time now and the performance has been outstanding my DL 50 has no problem swinging a 22B on an 18 LB biplane I have unlimited vertical and super responce what more can I ask for.

I switched from JFX to Xoar (by means of hitting the asphalt w/ my JFX), got 200 more rpms instantly.

Hey my timing was at 39 degrees. I moved it as close to 28 as I could as mentioned in this forum, but it's still more like 33 or something. The motor doesn't start easy and pops a lot from low to ~2/3 throttle now. I'm putting it back to 39 degrees! It started awesome before. I think it popped before though too so maybe my low end is just rich?? Ideas? Comments?

Are you sure about your timing numbers??

Ya, I didn't think you could advance one that much. Maybe the sensor is rotated inside the housing??? Strange indeed. I would recheck your timing as well to be sure you had it correct.

That doesn't sound right. Should start awesome at 28 degrees...mine does.

It sounds like he is checking the timing on the wrong side of the magnet. You have to turn the motor backwards to get the sensor on the correct side of the embedded magnet. I think thats how I timed my motor someone correct me if I'm wrong. If you go to the wrong side of the magnet the timing will read funny.

I think you hit the nail on the head. If he is turning the prop backwards it will read higher than it is.

Any type of diagram? There was a link to some other page (where you printed out the chart and all) that I followed and used. Maybe I am doing it wrong. If so, I'd love to see some sort of diagram to clear this up a little.

I'm not following you here. Seems like I could turn the motor either way and make the magnets align.

Edit...
I just found this (Bob's page? - thanks Bob)
http://www.rcaerobats.net/GAS_ENGINE...onInfo-v.2.pdf

I may have had my chart upside down - I can't remember though cause I did this back in Nov and just now (three long months later) was when I finally had a chance to go fly it again. I'll check it accordingly and hopefully get a chance to start it up today and see. Unfortunately, it only popped while in the air, not on ground - and I'm not going to be able to fly it today. I should be able to figure out if it starts easy or not though pretty quick.

The ignition sparks after the magnet moves past the sensor. So if you go the wrong way it will be off the thickness of the magnet. The timing is set 28 degrees before top dead center. So you have to start with the spark then move to top dead center. Don't start at top dead center then move to the spark. Put your protractor on the crank, spark plug in the ignition and not in the motor, turn the motor forward till it sparks. Then line up your needle on zero. Then turn the motor forward to top dead center, and read the protractor. Thats how I did mine.

After you find TDC and have the chart mounted on the engine make sure you are turning the engine the direction the prop turns to get the correct reading. After thinking about it I think you would get a lower reading if you are going backwards anyway.


The instructions you found on Bob's site are the correct ones. When setting the chart you have to have something in the cylinder that will not move or it will make it hard to fid TDC. I made myself a tool out of an old spark plug. The piston touches it at about 40 degrees before TDC. I rotate the crankshaft all the way around backwards and forwards until I get the exact same reading on my pointer on the chart on both sides of TDC. Once you have this you will get an accurate reading when you hook up the ignition.
Doug

Bob has it right. If you would have had that post up before mine I wouldn't even had to post. It makes sense if you think about it. Good luck.

Can you give us a little more info on this tool or maybe a picture?? I would like to make one.

I just cut out the guts of a spark plug and epoxied a dowel in it. To make a real good one you tap the inside of the spark plug and then round off the end of a bolt and thread a nut onto it. Then screw the bolt through the spark plug that you gutted out and tapped. Set the length you need and then tighten down the nut to lock it in position. This way it is adjustable for different engines.

Another way if you don't have the tools is to buy a plug adapter instead of tapping a plug. For the CM-6 engines buy a 10mm to 1/4" adapter for example and then use a 1/4" bolt inside it. I don't know if this size is available or if you can find one at a hardware store. The only ones I have found is 14mm to 10mm and 14mm to 1/4" This should give you the idea though. Here is a link to a picture of what I mean.

http://www.prcmodel.com/var/files/we.../pg0167_lg.jpg

Perfect explanation. I am going to do one. Thanks!!

I had it wrong, I had to think about it for a second. Its tough to picture all this stuff with out my motor in hand, and sitting on the couch!!
Here is the easiest way for me.



The ignition sparks after the magnet moves past the sensor. So if you go the wrong way it will be off the thickness of the magnet. The timing is set 28 degrees before top dead center. So you have to start with the spark then move to top dead center. Don't start at top dead center then move to the spark. Put your protractor on the crank, spark plug in the ignition and not in the motor, turn the motor forward till it sparks. Then line up your needle on zero. Then turn the motor forward to top dead center, and read the protractor. Thats how I did mine.