Need Help : My dl50 will not start it gives a few pops then nothing, have good spark ,fuel , when I take the plugg out it is very wet seems fouled, checked charge in the ign. pack and it was at about 5.25 volts under load ,changed fuel (got new Gas) and that did not help put in new plug no difference the only thing that I noticede was a sound coming out of the carb that I never heard from my other gas engines that I have . Any Suggestions? ( This engine is new and never ran]


regards Hooligan

Have you set the carb needle setting to factory. If so and you are still fluding the engine there may be trash in the carb. The thing you describe about carb noise is strange and I had that sound once and it was the reed block. It Had a metal something under it and was letting crank case pressure come back through the carb.

I'll have to check the reed block but I'm think'n it might be the ign. when I spun the prop with the plug out and plugged into the cap I got good spark, I tried it later and got intermitent spark and then nothing?



regards Hooligan

I'll have to check the reed block but I'm think'n it might be the ign. when I spun the prop with the plug out and plugged into the cap I got good spark, I tried it later and got intermitent spark and then nothing? The needles are set to factory specs.



regards Hooligan

When you buy a tru-turn spinner and want to use it on a DL/DA50.. Do you have to drill out the back plate with a jig just like the prop? First time I've ever wanted to put a spinner on. Answered my own question with a little reading. Thanx anyway guys.

Which wrap around pitts muffler does anyone suggest for a DL 50. TBM Silent Beauty Pitts muffler or Jtec or any others. The engine is going in a 25 % yak 54.

Can anyone give me dimensions? back plale to prop hub / o/a height / o/a width

DUDE THINK ABOUT IT
1 LOTS OF GAS ON SPARK PLUG
2 BACK PRESSURE COMMING THROUGH THE CARB
3 THE ONLY WAY YOUR GOING TO GET BACK PRESSURE IN THE CARB IS FROM A REED STUCK OPEN
(PULL THE CARB AND HAVE A LOOK)
THE REASON IT IS POPPING IS THAT THE IGN. IS WORKING THE BACK PRESSURE IS NOT IN THE CRANK CASE
ITS GOING THROUGH THE CARB

From back of stock standoff to prop hub face is 170mm or 102mm without standoffs (to back of mounting lugs)

From mounting bolt at back of carby to prop face is 165mm

Overall width at head = 80mm (no muffler fitted)
Overall width at outside of mounting lugs = 97mm
Overall width at side of crankcase = 70mm
Overall height = 163mm from bottom of crank to top of head, ( add 15mm with plug & plug cap fitted)

If you need others dimensions let me know

Cheers

Scott
DL Engines AU

I'm looking for some advice. In order to get engine tuned to eliminate the low to mid range burbling, I've leaned the low speed needle to the point where the engine is very difficult to start. At this lean setting however, the engine runs great. If the low speed needle is richened a 1/16, the engine starts much easier, but the burble is back. Also, after a landing, the engine seems to load up and die on the runway, again this is with the richer setting. This issue is much better at the leaner setting, and yet quickly going from idle to full throttle, there is no hesitation. My other DL50 runs great and doesn't have this issue.

Chuck

CHUCK HAVE YOU EVER TAKEN A CARB APART BEFORE IF SO I WOULD TAKE IT APART AND LOOK INSIDE TO SEE IF EVERY THING IS OK POSSIBLE SOMTHING MAY HAVE GOTEN STUCK IN A PORT SOME PLACE YOU CAN CHECK THE REED CAGE AT THE SAME TIME. I CLEAN CARBS OUT WITH CARB CLEANER FROM THE LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE -OR TAKE THE NEEDLES OUT AND SPRAY CARB CLEANER IN THE HOLES WITH THE CARB OFF YOU DONT WANT THE CLEANER TO GET INTO THE ENGINE IT WILL DRY SOME THINGS UP YOU KNOW LIKE CYLINDER WALLS THAT WOULD NOT BE GOOD. SOME THING TO THINK ABOUT

Chuck,
the required settings will change slightly between a cold engine and an engine at operating temp. Therefore the best operating needle settings can be just a bit too lean to be easy to start. If the engine runs fine in flight then the settings are fairly close, just give the engine a few more flips with the choke on to get it a bit wetter.

Do you have any problems with the engine dying on the leaner setting?

You can tell if the low needle is too lean when you drop the RPM back to idle from full throttle if it runs faster than it should on idle then slowly drops to the low idle.

If the engine will drop from full throttle down to a low idle without hesitation it is not too lean.

As BTerry noted, never tune a cold engine or set the idle when it's cold. Correctly tuned and it might be a bit lean on the low needle. One needs to define "hard to start". Does that mean it takes more than three to 5 flips before it burps when choked? That's not hard to start. More than ten or 15 flips choked before a burp is getting towards the difficult side. If it was sitting for a month or more even 10 or 15 flips would not be unusual for a cold and dry engine.

Every engine is slightly different from another. One needs to tune their engines and learn the individual nuances that each will have.

Chuck, check this web site for carb tuning. It has alot of good information and it works.
Heres the link. www.rcaerobats.net

ftimburgia, thanks wow a lot of good info in that sight i liked the foam wing build thats in there





Jim

r

I am going to pull the carb tonight and I'll let you know if I find any thing out of the ordinary,


regards Hooligan

This is one of the best walbro carb tuning guides out there, written by Pat (Tired Old Man). http://www.zrcgf.com/pages/files/Mas...0Technique.pdf

edit to fix link

Cheers

Read closer, written by Mark Fuess

There are a few things I never understood in this article. One is why you would run a gas engine wide open for a minute, and two is why you'd open the low end slightly if it goes lean at wide open throttle. Don't you want to open the high needle? Also if you want something to look credible wouldn't you want to fix those spelling mistakes?

If you run some engines at WOT on the ground for 60 seconds with anything but great baffling you are gonna cook them. I hear you about adjusting the low needle too.

Thanks....I see this posted all the time and just don't get why those two parts are still like that. The rest of it, tuning the low needle is very good.

Can you imagine how many engines get cooked doing this? Then they try to adjust the wrong needle? Man talk about confusing new people.

Shoot, I screwed up. I meant this one: http://www.zrcgf.com/pages/files/Mas...0Technique.pdf

Sorry. I agree with the questions about the other link.

ouch!