There is a great thread for that subject. Let's hope they find it first.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_65..._4/key_/tm.htm

....it just never ends, I was joking

Think about this, there are four commonly used base oils that can be labeled as "synthetic", and one of then IS petroleum based.

No need to heat the oil or what ever it is you are using for smoke on a gas engine. We use diesel fuel mixed with ATF, makes great smoke.

Tom
Valley View RC

sweet... thanks

Hi guys ...

Never had a Fuji, but have Zenoas'. wondering what, if any, differences exist between the Fuji vs Zenoa as to power, life span,etc.

Bruce

I believe you are on the wrong thread. This is a discussion on the DL 50cc engine.

I think I'm ready for some more on props and RPMs, feel like we really greased the oil issue.

Guys, a little curious about tunning. I asked before but didn't get a responce. The high end was leaned out untill the engine would quit on transition. I am not sure if that is the proper procedure or not. Is it possible that i need to richen the low end at that point. I am also not sure if the tach that was telling me 6500 on the xoar 22-8 is accurate. Non the less the plane has some impressive verticle power.

yes I know what this thread is about, but if you check back a few pages, there are many references to the Fuji vs DL50 (which I just ordered) I was curious how they compared to the Zenoa. did not realize that was an improper question ...sorry!!

Bruce

Well, I'll take a stab at it, and await the multiple corrections which will follow.
I do it this way....
Start it.
Let it fully warm up at some low-throttle setting, couple clicks off high idle.... at least a full minute, maybe more.
Advance to full throttle. Should come up smoothly, and stay solid at the high end.
Pull down to normal idle, let it sit. If it slows, it's rich. If it speeds, it's lean. You may have to leave it there 30 seconds or so to be sure, particularly the closer you get to "optimum".

Let's say it's rich.
Shut it down. Adjust 1/8th turn CW on the L needle. Start it up.
Warm it up. Go full throttle, back to idle, let it sit. Repeat previous checking for slowing or speeding.
If still rich, shut off, adjust leaner, restart, try again.

Do this until you have a solid idle, and no hesitation as it comes up to full throttle. If it sags when rapidly advancing, it's too lean.

High end - start at factory setting, about 1 1/2 open from fully closed. It will likely be rich.
Just like the low end, shut it down, tweak it, restart, warm it up, check again.
ON the HIGH speed needle you want "peak".... and go easy on the needle, the closer you get. You will get to a point where you will go a screwdriver blades' thickness of change.... and go easy with those....

Fly it.
If it sags in a full power vertical, assuming you have good cooling, proper prop, and good oil ratio, it's lean, and you need to land, richen a screwdriver thickness, try again.

When you go through this a couple times, it will become easy for you to know where to start.
And the DL adjustments on my engines have been VERY stable, hardly ever needing changing after about the 3rd gallon.

Bruce - no one is trying to be rude. We've had DL 50 threads shut down TWICE before.... so the guys hanging here are just gun shy of moderation, I think.

Aerobob .... not a problem.

I just received an email saying the latest shipments of DL%)'s is going to be delayed a week or so. I am anxious to get one and test it out/mount it in my new Aeromaster. I hope it cranks like everyone is saying they do. If so, it will be awesome for sure!!

Bruce

Thanks for the tuning help aerobob

Will se what i can do. I am curious as to how much the low end on the engines affects the high end. For example, on a glow engine, once you got above about 1/2 throttle the LS has no affect on the high end. How is it on these gassers?

I think you'll find it's about the same. Unless GROSSLY out of whack, the low end pretty much affects just the bottom third. What you will find that may be an adjustment for you is the lack of linearity... when these carbs get about 30% open, you're at about 75% rpm, with very little change over the rest of the rotation up to full bore. Longer arms on the carb and servo help... as does having a radio that can have a good expo curve on throttle.

I actually don't use a curve anymore, as I just use a 3/4" arm on the servo and 7/8" on the carb, with the pushrod length adjusted with throttle stick at half, and carb arm just under 1/2 open. I've done both of my current setups that way, and the linearity is pretty good, actually.

Not good enough for the fussy 3D guys, but I don't do no steenkin' 3D....

I've noticed the same thing with the throttle. But it seems to have more thrust even though the sound of the motor doesn't change much. But it seems to make some differance. But the expo is a great idea.

I just received my new DL50,oooooohhhhhhh.
It is my first gasser, it looks to be alot of fun ahead.
I ordered a couple of NGK CM-6 plugs and I am waiting on the CMPro 330L to show up and start the winter project.
Anyway here are some engine picts to slobber on

Pictures...

Uhhhhh, We've all had one for ages and flown ours.LMAO Nice pictures though.

Great to see that enthusiasm and excitement about the DL!!!!
The pics are great, too.... I'm not sure there are any of the current version on this new thread, and since we know that no one searches the forum to see what is already out there, those pics will come in handy for many, I'm sure.

You are gonna be smilin' fer shure.....

I've seen one of the engines with the thicker mounting ears first hand but I think these are the first pictures I've seen of one. Mine is the older style with the thinner ears. It's really nice to see a company actively correcting their shortfalls based on the consumers feedback. You are REALLY going to love this engine!!!

Aerobob

What expo should i be running then. I would assume it should be negative? Would a good starting point be around -30?

I have seen videos of it tossing arround 19lb planes without (it sounds like it is hardly trying) any effort. It appears to have gobs of power.
I have not seen one in person fly yet , but I will now.

I am sure that I will have tons of questions after I get it mounted and ready for running.

And winter hasn't even started yet []

Depending on radio brand, the expo "direction" can be misleading...I'd start at least with 30-35%, where the movement is LESS at the bottom half of the travel. On JR, it's "positive" +, meaning less movement with higher + values. Think about is as "Increasing lack of movement". On Futaba, it's "negative", meaning "reducing movement".

I' running negative 30% on a Futaba T9CAP.