who Is useing the DL 50 on a Sig Sun Dancer, What was your all up weight, I am getting mine ready and the weight seems much lower than the ones I have heard about, like I will be right at 15 lbs, san's fuel??

I just heard from rcats. They said they use the transmitter failsafe for signal loss issues (return to idle). Makes sense to me.
Edwin

Okay guys, I have an oil question

I recently realized that the oil i baught from homedepot (echo) is a sythetic blend. I am a little concerned as the instruction manuel says to use petroleum based oils for break in and then switch to sythetic. What really concerned my however is the gasser guys at my field said sythetic oil will destroy the engine if used for break in. [X(] What!? How the heke could that happen. Is there any kind of significant difference. A search online shows pretty split down the middle opinions. Many people say it doesn't matter while others say it is an important matter. I mixed the fuel at 30:1 and still have about a gallon left in the can. I really would rather not dump it to put a petroleum mix in.
Any thaughts?

Thanks
Cameron

Looks like I am going to purchase a DL 50 soon for an Aeroworks 50cc extra... what are some good recommendations for a can for this engine that will not decrease performance?

Also, Can I just put a smoke port into the can on these gas engines, or do I have to do a pre-heat deal like on glow engines?

Thanks,
Mike

Cambo, Go to this thread and PM Pat Roy, tell him exactly what oil you are running and ask him the same question.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_65..._4/key_/tm.htm

What is the blend stated on the container, if any?

well I done it!!! Talked to DLUSA today, and ordered a new DL50,prop drill guide and extra motor mount. Hope that I am going to be happy with it when it comes. It is slated to be installed in my new Giant Aeromaster. I was a little hesitant, but read so many raves that thought that all you guys can't be nuts![:@] Soooo yewins talked me into doin it!

Bruce

Not sure Lou, i think it has a 50:1 thing on the box. Should i switch over to 50?

Will PM pat roy, thanks

No rudeness intended to anyone, but these oil questions leave me shaking my head!!!!!

The manual is very clear, it specifies whether to use synthetic or not, when to change to full synthetic (if desired), what ratios to use, and how much the "break in" should take.

Again, cambo, NOT picking on you, just commenting on something I don't understand. Sure, there are lots of folks who have "their preferences" for THEIR experience, but those do not make those specifics "gospel".

Follow the DL instructions.

Oh, yeah.

Use Pennzoil Air-Cooled, too....

LOL!!

Can i switch to a mineral oil now or have i screwed it up?[]

Here's **the** guy to ask.... [email protected]
Bob will not lie to you.

You haven't hurt a thing. Go ahead and get some Pennzoil Air-Cooled and run it 32:1. If you check you will probably find that the oil you've been running is a mixture of petroleum based and synthetic. Most cheap oils are. If it has a warning on the label that says contains petroleum distilates then it's oil based with a synthetic additive. If it has the capitol letters TC on the label, it's probably fine to run in your engine for break-in, or at least until your gallon of gas is used up.


Bob, I gotta meet you face to face one day!!! You are a wild man!!! LMAO

hello boys i too have bought one of these motors. i also run DA motors. as to the oil its really simple go to ace hardwear and buy lawnboy ashless to brake the motor in. this is the very same as with DA after 3 gallons then switch to a very good synth. oil as i myself am using belray racing oil which can be had at any yamaha place. this too is recomended by DA. so if iits good enough for DA then the DL will handle it. and as others have said do as the instructions say. dont just pick up a can of oil READ THE LABLE for contents. now dont everyone get all upset iam not trying to put anyone down. it just seems that way too many people have problems with this.[sm=teeth_smile.gif]

Hey Lou, it does have that on the warning label so i guese it is petroleum based. Is the synthetic addatives a markating thing? I noticed i was getting oil splatter on the bottom of the plane that the sythetic guys arn't getting. There is an asmoil dealer at my field. I think i will use there 50:1 after i finish the echo stuff up.

Also, when tunning this thing i leaned it and continued to gain RPM untill it finally died in transition. I am not very familiar with gas carbs so i was wondering if that would mean my low end is actually to lean still.

Thanks

NOPE.
DA's recommendations are for *their* engines.

DL's recommendations are for THEIRS.

They don't have to be the same, and may not be, and possibly may not make a whipstitch of difference either way.

It's been written at LEAST a bazillion times in this forum someplace.... maybe a couple of bazillion times.

Varieties in oil brands is competition in the market.
Many similarities exist.
Many differences are present.

When it's all said....
1. Read the instructions
2. Follow the instructions
3. Ask the warrantor if you want to deviate from their recommendations

OR

4. Treat these like they are freakin' chainsaw/weedeater/leafblower/snowmobile/motocross/quadrunners and just run 'em.

I'd bet across the lifetime of these engines (TBO) running them LEAN, on ANY oil, will cause WAY more harm than WHICH kind of oil.

But that's just me..... ol' "Mr. Pennzoil"....

I have stopped using oil alltogether---this gives me an excuse to keep buying new motors.

If an engine can handle a synthetic after "X" number of hours it can handle a synthetic from the first minute. Natural oils seat the ring faster, nothing more since there's no other parts that have the need to match surfaces. Thermal cycles are far more important in a cast engine assembly during the break in process than seating the ring, which will happen regardless of what oil you use.

The only reason to suggest a 30-1 mix is for the manufacturer to protect himself from the user. Such a rich oil mixture keeps the engine cooler and lessens damage from a lean run, and/or poor cooling due to inadaquate airflow, which is all to common.

Bottom line is to pick a good oil and run with it. Echo is one of the good ones. BTW, we put more hours on r/c engines in a month that most, if not all, r/c engine makers put on engines in a year. We've learned enough to qualify as experts.

Thanks for chimming in Pat Roy, i am going to stick with echo.

While attending college, I relied upon a very used Yamaha RD-350 for transportation (motorcycle, two-stroke, two cylinder). Not having any money, other than the VA stipend, I couldn't afford to run the proscribed Yamalube oil injection lubricant. Soooo, I reverted to burning straight SAE 30 weight non detergent bargain oil. Worked like a charm.

Years later I found out that that was the standard oil for that bike in many countries of the world whose citizens could not afford the ridiculously priced Yamalube. Never had a problem with the bike for the two years that I owned it, with lots of miles accrued. It was still running great with good compression when I sold it to another student.


Ed Cregger

Do you have to preheat before going into the exhaust or tuned pipe for smoke on a gas engine like the dl50?

SEE!!! I told ya to PM Pat Roy!!! Next time LISTEN!!! LMAO

only way to be sure your doing the right thing is to listen to Bob @dlusa. That said.....I used synthetic @40:1 from day 1 [sm=50_50.gif] and the DL is running great....did the same for my DA's too.

CHeers

W

He did PM me. He received a much longer explanation that the thread did.

There's no need at all to pre-heat smoke oil on a gasser. Glow engines run a lot cooler due to the type of fuel they use, which is the reason for pre-heating smoke fluid with glow fueled engines.

Just to let you guys know I did here back from Bob and using the echo is just fine. Thanks for the help everyone

Any bets guys?....how long till the next 'this oil vs. this oil' thread

chad