The day that I flew it was a lil cooler outside, maybe 15 degrees in temperature difference.

Yes when I tuned it, it was with the cowl of. But I have a very large exit whole at the bottom off the cowling.

I dont have one whole gallon through it yet, almost though.

I think if I retune its gonna be ok, I mean this engine is still breaking in. It wasnt out off tune real bad, but it was. I was gonna try and tune it and fly it this weekend, but they are calling for some bad weather over here for the weekend. But im definately happy with the power off the motor, man that thing is a power house running rough!!! I know I alreay said that, but im just shocked with the performance. I dont have two small holes in the cowl for tuning the engine, I have to take it of to adjust the needles. Maybe I should drill two holes that way I can use a long screw driver to adjust while the cowl is still on. Good idea are not?

That is what I do to my cowls. Much easier than taking it off all the time.

You can get to both needles easily with only one hole in the cowl.

Yes, I should have mentioned that. I drill one hole about 5/32". I insert the screwdriver while I watch where it is going through the front of the cowl to line it up on either the low or high speed needle.

Make a nice big hole to tune. on these large cowls the hole seems to disappear.

Yea I might just drill one whole, the cowling is pretty big. Thanks for the replys guys.

I fired up my DL50 that had the bearings spin last summer for the first time. I rebuilt the engine with new bearings, crank, and crankcase. It wasn't broke in yet when I had to rebuild it so now I can finish the break in. It is running like a Swiss watch and I could not believe how well it started. I gave it 5 or so flips with the choke on and the ignition off. Turned on the ignition and the turned off the choke. One flip and it fired up. You should see what it does in an Extra that weighs less than 16 lbs all up weight.

You should see what it does on a 17#, 13 ounce Yak. Incredible. Must be a NASA mission on yours.

I hope you used some loctite on those bearings,

Yup, I used Locktite 620. It's a high temperature bearing retainer. Them puppies aren't coming loose anytime soon. I had to preheat the crankcase to expand it to fit the bearings as well.

http://unitide.myweb.hinet.net/TDS/Product_620.pdf

Mine is on a 13 lb 6 oz Comp-ARF Extra 2X2m. The word "Ballistic" fits nicely here. 30 lbs thrust on a 13.5 lb plane is just insane.

It's like melding the model rocket hobby with RC planes !!!!

My DL-50 is on a 15.5# 1/3 scale Pitts Bipe.. Kowabonga !!

I see I am not the only one here that is insane.

This kind of insane can be FUN!!!

Hi guys,
i bought a Tru-Turn spinner for my DL-50. But the backing plate don't have the 4 holes around the middle one. Do i have the good one or i have to make them my self ? The center hole of the backingplate is too small too, do i have to make it bigger ? Maybe i just don't have the good spinner too ?

Please help.
Can't wait to fire my DL-50.

Pascal

This is my first gasser. DL-50. I have been flying Satio 100`s about 9 yrs. I got this plane 2nd hand. I started it up the first time today. I have to tell you, seeing the power this thing has is scarying the daylights out of me. When this thing started it does not give much warning and you better be out the way. Hopefully i will get used to it after i clean my under pants a couple times. The question i have is that the idle is not as precise and consistant like i am used to with glow. When i set my idle where i want it to be; low enough where it does not kill. Then i rev it up and run it for a while from half throttle to full throttle then back to idle. It will not stay in the exact idle position where i set it. Now i forgot to say that this is all while the planei s tied down. The engine is broken in. When you idle it back down it may be a little high or too low. Not much ; but enough to have to play with the trim every time when you come back down from half or full throttle. Is this the beast of the 2- stoke gas, and is this normal? I am scared that at landing it won`t go to my set position and it will dead stick because of being too low ,or will overrun the runway being to high. I don`t want to be fiddling with the throttle trim and trying to land. Thanks

You always want to adjust the idle when the engine is (reasonably) hot. When a well-adjusted engine is cold it tend to idle at a lower rpm and even die. You first might want to check the throttle servo. A medium to normal sized digital is preferred because it'll hold the idle position better and has a better resolution. Be sure the throttle won't open the full 100%, just below so vibration isn't transferred to it.

When the servo is fine adjust the needles as follows:
Run engine warm/hot w/o cowling;
Close the low speed needle 1/16 turn at a time and then accelerate the throttle fast up to the point the engine starts surging. Open the needle 1/8.
Adjust high speed needle for max rpm and cut it back 100-200 rpm by opening the needle a bit, about 1/16.
Repeat at least once. The LS and HS affect each other.

The low speed needle needs to be adjusted to a point where the engine in the lower rpms almost runs too lean. This will give you a smooth transition. If possible, disable the sub trim and use the radio's digital trim to set the idle. With a decent digital servo you'll never have to touch it again.

Edit:
Start above procedure w/ the needles set to the manufacturer's settings which will be quite rich. Your engine might already run too lean.

I use a program mix now set to a spare switch to give me a safe high idle for flying and doing stunts without fear of it shutting down. With a flick of the switch it goes to my set low rpm for landing. I do get a little bit of change with my low idle, but not a great amount. I would guess it is from changes in engine temperature.

BTW very nice Sundancer

Some IMO use a switch to set the idle which in my opinion is practical for IMAC flight, but not necessary with a well adjusted engine. I have my idle at around 1600rpm and had 2 dead sticks in over 150 flights on the DL50 because I accidentally turned the ignition off.

If you are using an analog throttle servo and have your throttle linkage hooked to the stubby little arm that is standard on the Walbro carb, you can have a very substantial variance in idle speed due to the poor centering ability of the servo and the short arm on the carb. if you use an accessory throttle arm that is at least as long as the arm on the servo and a decent quality digital servo, idle speed will be as close as possible to exactly the same every time you throttle back.

I haven't had a problem with the DL's either. I started doing this due to a problem I was having with another brand that would cut out when tumbling or doing spins. I had the same model of engine in two different planes and they both had the same problem that led me to setting up a high idle switch that prevented the problem. Now I am going to make it something I do weather it is required or not. Just gives the added peace of mind.

Tried to start my DL50 tonight to show someone and couldn't get it started. After trying everything I noticed this. It just snapped. This is my first gas engine and I was shocked. Plane doesn't really vibrate that much. Have just been breaking in the engine. It has about two hrs on it and was gonna make the maiden flight tomorrow. Guess I'll be getting a MG servo. I know there was a lot of talk about MG servos for the throttle, but I went thru my last several yrs of MAN and RCReport magizines and everyone uses standard servos for the throttle on gassers. There was a couple of digitals, but I saw none of the reveiwers using MG servos on the throttle, so I figured I was fine. Guess not.

Looks like you had the throttle too far open. Always be sure there's a little play left. Even the strongest metal gear servo will die eventually w/o a properly setup throttle linkage.

That is something I am not sure everyone checks. I always set my endpoint short a few clicks from where the servo stops buzzing so it will never be pushing up against the stop on the carb at full throttle. All that does is transmit any vibration directly to the servo by being under constant pressure. Just something I do, others mileage may vary.