Flam'n,

Gas is not as sensitive to fuel volume as Nitro. Small is plenty but I run 1/8 inch as it is easier to work with on most of the common Fuel connectors.. Oh and don't forget to zip and barb all of your connections..

Good Luck,

Ed

Just had an issue with one of my DL's today this engine is about 2 years old now, fired the engine up and went to tune it and it ran very good then all of a sudden it stopped i fired it back up and the engine would not run over half throttle, it would die out after passing the half way mark, I tried to tune it i richened up the high end and that would not do it so now i have pulled the engine off and will see if the high end needle is cloged and clean the carb. I also checked the spark plug after removing the engine and it looked good but i will change it anyway. I will let everyone know what i find as i go along. I also thought about calling bob to get another sensor. I have herd about these things going out and only running at lower RMP.

Anyone with any ideas?

Hey guys I just purchased the DL 50 and it has been a while since I have used a gas engine and have a few questions. I need to know where to set the piston / prop for starting and some tips on how to mark the prop / backplate so that I can drill them with the prop drill jig.

Thanks

Jeff

Open the diaphragm cover and check the float diaphragm and needle valve lever assembly.
http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm

Craig, I have had issues in the past with the same problem. Its not always the engine or carb.The electronic ignitions are sensitive to other related items. Tell us what else you are running in conjunction with it. (ie. ignition kill switch, if so what type, Battery type and are you running a regulator on the ignition battery. Have had issues with both in the past and it presented the same type problem you stated.

I have found that the best position to drill is to turn the prop facing you(forward) placing the prop on a horizontal plane. set the drill jig with one hole to the 1o clock position. drill from the front first, reverse the drill jig to the rear and then drill through from the back to true the holes. when putting the prop on the plane, set it as to compression comming to the 1:00 clock position. Ths will best insure fingers are clear on the downward swing of the prop.

With the prop just drill the 4 holes square with the prop. In other words, the holes form a square that 2 sides are parallel to the length of the prop. Or if that doesn't make sense, with the prop held in front of you with the tips pointing directly up and down (12 and 6 o'clock)....holes are at 2, 4, 8, and 10 o'clock. If you do this the prop tips will be at about 1 and 7 o'clock just starting the compression stroke.

With the spinner back plate it doesn't matter since the spinner cone slips on it to where the prop goes through. Just put the jig on a drill them.
Backplate doesn't matter where you drill the holes.

Whups forgot I had a picture.

A shot in the dark,
This happen to me on a G62 the screw came lose on the butter fly disc in the carb causing the problem that you discribed and may be your clunk tubing has come loose in the tank?

Good Luck

the oil is again klotz techniplate witch is supposably a hi quality synthitec oil bu here is what there web site says:::

Pure synthetic bases are blended for the perfect level of 2-stroke lubrication and performance. Klotz® Clean Burn™ technology virtually eliminates carbon and residue buildup. Extreme film strength engineered to reduce engine component wear and build horsepower. Blends with methanol alcohol and gasoline.

APPLICATION:
Primary use is in alcohol and R/C Model glow fuels
R/C Modeling – 2/4-stroke glow
Motorcycle/ATV – 2-stroke/alcohol; Stock, Hi-performance
Kart/Micro Sprint – 2-stroke/alcohol; Stock, Hi-performance
Kart/Micro Sprint – 4-stroke/alcohol; Stock, Hi-performance, Road Racing

CHARACTERISTICS:
Smoke Rating: 10 1=fog; 10= no smoke
Clean Burnâ„¢: 10 1=heavy deposits; 10=no carbon
Film Strength: 7.5 1=failure; 10=virtually no wear
Viscosity @100°F: 950 SUS 50 W @ 40°C: 200 cSt
Pour Point: -15°F
Flash Point: 460°F
RPM Limit: 12-13,000; R/C Model 20,000+
Rust Prevention: Contain rust inhibitors. Not recommended as a
storage lubricant.
Certification: A.P.I. S.A. Intended for Racing Engines Only
Color: Red

DIRECTIONS:
Compatibility: Blends with BeNOL® castor oil, SuperTechniPlate®, gasoline, methanol alcohol,
nitromethane and stays in suspension. Will not blend with petroleum oils or synthetic lubricants.
100% Biodegradable formula.
Fuel Stability: Will dissolve in gasoline at ratios of 15:1 or greater; alcohol at ratios up to 5:1.
2-Stroke pre-mix: Do not use in oil injection systems.
Air cooled engines mix at 16:1 to 20:1
Water cooled engines mix at 20:1 to 32:1
R/C Model: 2-stroke glow engines mix at 15 -18%
Kart: Air cooled mix at 16:1 to 20:1

here is a link to the site: http://www.klotzlube.com/storeProdDetails.asp?pi=22

That's a high oil ratio. Why not use something else? I'm at 90:1 Amsoil Saber after 8 gallons at the moment and plan to go to 100:1 as soon I'm through the remaining 1 gallon. Runs very clean

I guss im gooing to have to i cant belive that is what they are recomending good thing i looked it up before i just mixed it a 50:1 I have never herd of a synyh. oil with a mix rate that high and I have been told by several guys in my club this is great stuff i guess in stuck with a $15 bottle of weed eater oil

I have used this stuff with glow engines, but never with a gasoline engine. Klontz made this stuff for SIG, and I think it's intended use is for glow engines.

hmmmm .... intresting, read this whole thread after seeing a dl50 my friends have down the street own, very nice for the price. I happen to be a powersports tech
and not all oils are the same NO! but there are a few that are quite a bit better than most. for a bargin (From a company that I highly respect because you DONT see
them in the shop alot) Kawasaki's 2stroke oil [6.99 pint] is a supierior non synthetic. they'v been designing some of worlds most sifisticated powerplant for decades. BTW there's No reason to run synthetic unless you have a top injector, your just wasting money. im sure the DA is a better engine/ignition system, but for the 370.00 to your door price
you could own 2 Dls..... LOL.

[sm=bananahead.gif]

You may want to go back and talk with someone from KLOTZ. I bought the KL-310 Syn. Oil at the Toledo RC Show and it comes highly recommended by many RC Modelers. This oil is mixed at a recommended 32:1 to 50:1.

I think we need to remember that each oil manufacture has its recommended mixing based on its characteristics. This mixing recomendation for the Klotz KL-310 for a 50:1 mixture is 2.6oz to 1 Gal. of Gas. Each is going to be different based on volume.

ie. Lawnboy Ashless for breakin for a recommended 50:1 is a 4oz to 1Gal.

GATTUSO2170, Checkout the KL-310. I'm wondering if your looking at the wrong oil???? Not Sure.

Mike

Lawnboy must be wrong, 4oz per gallon is 32:1

50:1 -> 128oz/50 = 2.56 oz per gallon

Heres a handy chart with oil mix ratios for gas

http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/do...atio_chart.pdf

Cheers

Scott

DL Engines Australia
www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop

I think 50 to1 would not be enough oil using lawnboy! 32-1 is more like it. Right? Capt,n

50:1 is fine once the engine is broken in but then you can better switch to synthetic.

I run all my engines on synthetic BelRay MC-1 with a mixing proportion of 32:1. My Zenoah marine motors get even 16:1. More oil never hurts an engine. Being too greedy does. Using synthetic does not cause carbon build up. So why not mix it more on the heavy side? My motors thank me with a longer life and better performance. That's my philosophy.

I think he's definitely looking at the wrong oil. KL-200 is used for glow engines. You can us it with gasoline, but you have to use alot of it... 16:1 at least.

KL-310 is excellent air-cooled 2 stroke oil...

I just purchased a DL-50 that I plan on running in a Top Flite GS P-51. I know most of you are running yours in 3D planes, but I thought I would give this a shot. My quesiton is, will the stock muffler fit in the cowling without too much hacking or do I need to go to a JTEC or other pits style muffler? Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Mark

What do you guys recommend for the right prop to break in the engine with? I've been thinkng to use a 22x8 and then switch to a 23x8.

I've always use the same prop to break in as I plan to fly with.