The spring doen't have enough strength to have an appreciable difference in wear on the servo or battery drain. You can unhook the end on the throttle arm if you wish but it's not necessary to cut it and you deffinately don't want to remove it completely, you would need a new carb in about a year.

You don't want the spring tension putting a strain against the servo-uses battery. By just clipping the hook off the end, you keep the spring holding the throttle plate in the correct position, reducing wear on the inside of the carb venturi.

Just leave the damn spring alone. Doesn't do jack squat to the battery.

Change off subject here, when I fill my fuel tank and then disconnect from the fill line the fuel keeps running out. I installed my fuel T on the fuel line, was I suppose to instal it on the vent line? Are should I get a one way fuel valve and instal that on the line?

Does anyone use the gasket supplied with the DL 50, between the engine and muffler?

Greg

I don't use the muffler gasket on any of my hobby engines....usually permatex ultra copper instead. Most of the supplied gaskets are of a material that compresses too much under vibration, resulting in loose parts and/or leaks.

I use this on my gas engines and it works very well for me. It holds the mufflers on with no leaks and yet it is not permanent. I also put some in the muffler bolt holes on the engine and this has kept my muffler bolts from coming loose.

-Ed B.

You need to make sure the end you are filling is higher than he the tank or it will leak out. Just hold it up as high as you can when you disconnect it and plug it.

Kool, im gonna try that. I have a pair of hemostats that ive been useing to pinch the line while I disconnect, but thats a pain in the but.

Using high temp liquid silicone as gasket is sure a nice way but the supplied gasket with the DL50 does the job well for me. Tighten it right and it wont come off until you want it to.

Thanks for the replies.
I have never run the supplied gasket with an engine yet, but I haven't had a gas engine to this point, and thought I would ask.

Thanks again,
Greg

No gasket just silicon.

Used red Loctite and gasket from day one on, no problems, what soever.

Wait until you start spitting muffs on a $150k airframe on a frequent basis, or wearing the muffler mounting holes on the engine cylinder oblong because the gasket fell out. You'll change your mind about using a gasket then and become a proponent of support brackets. Until then keep building that flight time. Eventually you'll reach the point that it happens to you. Luck only carries so far.

Then the so many gasket users must be very fortunate. It looks like only older people have issues w/ things falling out

How can a gasket fall out? Did they build those things in the old days from 1/8 plywood? Nowadays they're only about 1/32, compressed 1/64 or even less.

The problem that I have with the use of silicone is that it can get messy and hard to get off I may be old fasion but a gasket and loctite on the screws has work well for me,

Well alrighty then I might be older and a Industral mechanic but I can tell you taht it is very easy to clean off the copper gasket and put the muffler back on using the the copper sealant gasket then it is to make a new gasket everytime you need to pull the muffler off the engine. How hard is it to spread the gasket sealant on thin with your finger and locktite your screws. It sure gives me peace of mind not having to worry about the muffler failing. My two cents. 62 and nothing falls out that I do'nt want to.

Bosco and mstam are the only two people that I know of that use the gasket I've been following this thread since the DL was first on the market in the US. And everyone that I talked to said throw that gasket in the trash. But what ever.

I dont use gaskets but I know ppl who do without problems. Good flat mating surfaces are important either way.

Well guys
To me it boils down to what ever woks best for the individual I have had the oppertunety to work with many different kinds of loctite products to find that they work very well and I know that I could use there product for my exhaust system with no problem, However I chose to use the hevy duty gasket material the type with metal fibers in it, I have found that when you tighten the muffler screws down the gasket forms around the edges real well and it is so tuff that it cand be removed and re install many times so that is why I use gasket material it works well for me, I do not use the stock gasket it sucks,

Off that topic. Does anybody know what the torque on the bolts for the prop??? I know it should be in inches but I don't know what???????? Or do you guys even do that???

I thought DA recommended 70 inch-pounds but don't quote me on that number. I don't use a torque wrench. Just an allen wrench. I start tightening the bolts across from one another in an alternating pattern. When I feel that all bolts are tight enough, I stop. Once you get a feel for it, the hand method works great. Just don't over torque them or you crush the prop (if it's wood). Also make sure you re-check the prop bolts after the first flights. Then every 5-10 flights after that. Prop bolts should be checked for the life of the plane...just like any other maintenance. I think that's why you hear about sheared bolts now and then.

Been playing with these little 2 strokes for many years now, and I tighten everything until it feels right.

40 inch pounds. Check them periodically.

Thank you, that is what I was looking for . Thanks Eric