DL-50 engine
#4701
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From: Bunkie,
LA
Well im not really excited about putting that vent hole are watever yall called it. Can someone post a pic off how they did it are what it looks like, im not really shure what yall are talking about. Next time I fly it im going to try and do some tuning and see if I can fix it like that, but from what I can understand from you all, thats not going to help. If someone could post some pics I would greatly appreciate it.
#4702

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Moki the vent is the small hole in the side of the square plate with the circular raised section. When a problem with mixture is encountered inside a cowl it can be rotated to a different direction. If that doesn't work a 1/8" brass tube can be soldered to it and a length of fuel line run into the inside of the fuselage etc. If you search the tread there are a bunch of posts and pictures on how to do it.
#4703

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Here's 1 of the metering diaphragm 8-32 barb. The other three are the velocity stack I just installed.
You just tap the vent hole on an angle for 8-32. Have somebody silver solder the thing in after you snug it up....not too tight. Or use red lock tite like I did. Then grind the inside almost flush so it doesn't restrict the metering diaphragm movement. Very easy to do.
You just tap the vent hole on an angle for 8-32. Have somebody silver solder the thing in after you snug it up....not too tight. Or use red lock tite like I did. Then grind the inside almost flush so it doesn't restrict the metering diaphragm movement. Very easy to do.
#4709

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Try this link:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD623&P=M
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...pple&search=Go
Pretty much any hobby store should have something that will work.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD623&P=M
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...pple&search=Go
Pretty much any hobby store should have something that will work.
#4711
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From: Takasaki, JAPAN
I soldered the vent tube in all my gassers.
Some of the local flyers here place a piece of sponge (like you get in a servo box or airflter element)
directly over the diaphram cover. They glue a circle of foam the same size as the cover and about 3/8" thick.
This might work for you if you don't want to get into soldering, be careful not to block the vent hole!
I have never tried it but it seems to work.
Some of the local flyers here place a piece of sponge (like you get in a servo box or airflter element)
directly over the diaphram cover. They glue a circle of foam the same size as the cover and about 3/8" thick.
This might work for you if you don't want to get into soldering, be careful not to block the vent hole!
I have never tried it but it seems to work.
#4713

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ORIGINAL: Super08
Try this link:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD623&P=M
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...pple&search=Go
Pretty much any hobby store should have something that will work.
Try this link:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD623&P=M
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...pple&search=Go
Pretty much any hobby store should have something that will work.
That 2nd one is metric. I don't have a tap for that one.
#4714
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From: Blackfoot ,
ID
I did mine about the same as Joe did with one exception , I closed off the orginal hole and drilled and tapped a new one in the center of the plate 8-32 has the larger barb on it. Then ran the line into a small bottle like a film canister. So far the weather has kept me grounded , so I don't know if I will need a velocity stack or not yet. I have my doubts but if I do I'll make one.
#4715
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From: Bunkie,
LA
Well guys I ordered a barb fitting by dubro. I tried calling Jody at Valley View but know one answered the phone, so I left him my name and number on his voice mail. I would like to see about getting a velocity stack for my dl.
#4717
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From: Bunkie,
LA
I just talked to Jody at valley view rc, he said it sounds like I have it to rich, I think he's rite. Next time I fly im gonna lean it out some and see if it helps.
#4718

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That is one of the things I like about the rear carb engines. The carb is a safe distance away form the prop, and I tune my engine running like a glow engine. I don't recommend this for engines with side carbs, with some of them you will be very close to the prop. These engines even at an idle demand the utmost respect. I advance it to full throttle and hold the tach on it and lean the engine slowly until it hits peak rpm. Then I back it off 100 rpm to give it a little extra to unload in the air. Then I bring it down to about 2500 and lean out the low end until it peaks and then richen it about 1/16th of a turn. Then I go back and recheck the high end. Then I check and see how it revs up. If it is too slow I richen the low end the thickness of the blade slot until I am happy with how it revs. Recheck the high end and I am done. If you do a search of Tired Old Mans posts you should find a post by him that is an excellent step by step guide on how to tune and break in new engines. Some of these posts by the people with years of experience with gas engines should be gathered together and a sticky made up on a faq for gas engines. It would benefit allot of people.
#4719
I agree, but there are applications where they can help improve an undesirable characteristic. You will never get the desired results from any carb modification if you don't first properly adjust your carburetor. You must start there first. Gas engines 101.
#4720

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Well thanks to Jody's help, I'm now getting 7400 RPM on a Xoar 22x8 with the stock exhaust, 3-4 gallons of Pennz 32:1. This thing is scary powerful. The velocity stack totally made it run more consistant no matter what attitude the plane is in. It's clear as day that the mixture stays the same no matter what I'm doing. Incredible. The metering diaphragm vent mod helped, then the velocity stack cleaned it up even more. This engine rocks. I mean seriously...I'm getting almost pipe power out of a stock exhaust. It pulls my 17#, 10 ounce Yak through uplines like it's weightless.
#4721
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From: Miami beach, FL
Had to replace the fuel lines so here some pics of carb vent setup w/ condom
of my EF Extra 300. For the old people, the last pic shows how well the header is holding after 200+ flights w/ the gasket that came w/ the engine.
of my EF Extra 300. For the old people, the last pic shows how well the header is holding after 200+ flights w/ the gasket that came w/ the engine.
#4722
ORIGINAL: JoeAirPort
Well thanks to Jody's help, I'm now getting 7400 RPM on a Xoar 22x8 with the stock exhaust, 3-4 gallons of Pennz 32:1. This thing is scary powerful. The velocity stack totally made it run more consistant no matter what attitude the plane is in. It's clear as day that the mixture stays the same no matter what I'm doing. Incredible. The metering diaphragm vent mod helped, then the velocity stack cleaned it up even more. This engine rocks. I mean seriously...I'm getting almost pipe power out of a stock exhaust. It pulls my 17#, 10 ounce Yak through uplines like it's weightless.
Well thanks to Jody's help, I'm now getting 7400 RPM on a Xoar 22x8 with the stock exhaust, 3-4 gallons of Pennz 32:1. This thing is scary powerful. The velocity stack totally made it run more consistant no matter what attitude the plane is in. It's clear as day that the mixture stays the same no matter what I'm doing. Incredible. The metering diaphragm vent mod helped, then the velocity stack cleaned it up even more. This engine rocks. I mean seriously...I'm getting almost pipe power out of a stock exhaust. It pulls my 17#, 10 ounce Yak through uplines like it's weightless.
#4723

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Had my maiden with my DL50 today. Ran like a top. Getting 7400-7500rpm with a Xoar 22x8. Dont have quite 2 gallons thru it. Using Penn air-cooled oil. I only got 2 flights due to elevator problem grounding me. Have it in a Aeroworks 50cc 260 and vertical was outta sight. Plane came out a little heavy (19lbs), but thats not unusal with my planes. This is my first gas engine and I dont ever want to go back to glow.



