DL-50 engine
#4651
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From: Lahore, PAKISTAN
Its better that you use a 2000 maH or higher battery for the ignition since the current draw can go as high as 800 ma at full throttle. At this draw the voltage on a smaller pack will fall quite a bit after a couple of flights.
#4652

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I like the Elite 1500 2/3A cells. They have a ton of discharge current. You really don't need that much capacity....1000 mah is enough.
http://www.batterystore.com/Elite/Elite1500.htm
http://www.batterystore.com/Elite/Elite1500.htm
#4653
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From: Kangiqsualujjuaq,
QC, CANADA
Hey guys,
I have my DL on a Aeroworks plane, did you reinforce you engine box or your firewall in any way (glue, pin...) Let me know because i fire my DL yesterday and holy man that thing pull very much (not even went over 1/3). So, i'm wondering after my break-in when i will test my high rpm if the engine box will survive ???? Can i really go full throttle and hold the back of my plane without any issue ???
Thanks guys
Probably fly this weekend
Pascal
I have my DL on a Aeroworks plane, did you reinforce you engine box or your firewall in any way (glue, pin...) Let me know because i fire my DL yesterday and holy man that thing pull very much (not even went over 1/3). So, i'm wondering after my break-in when i will test my high rpm if the engine box will survive ???? Can i really go full throttle and hold the back of my plane without any issue ???
Thanks guys
Probably fly this weekend
Pascal
#4654
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From: Miami beach, FL
If the plane is designed for a 50cc engine, no problem. Just be sure you follow the directions that came w/ the plane re mounting the engine and check the motor box for any defects. Also always put the wings on before running the engine. They'll absorb the vibration. Have fun!!
#4655

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It's always a good idea to apply thin CA to all corners of the firewall before fuel proofing. Let it soak into any open cracks or seams. After that you can fuel proof with thinned epoxy. I like to put 3-4 cap head sheet metal screws on each side to pin the firewall. It's sort of a back up that I like to do. You can also pin it with hard wood dowels but the sheet metal screws take seconds to install. You bought a good quality kit but it's always recommeneded to go over the entire air frame with CA or whatever glue you like that penetrates. Sometimes they don't put enough glue on.
#4656
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ORIGINAL: Junaid Ali
Its better that you use a 2000 maH or higher battery for the ignition since the current draw can go as high as 800 ma at full throttle. At this draw the voltage on a smaller pack will fall quite a bit after a couple of flights.
Its better that you use a 2000 maH or higher battery for the ignition since the current draw can go as high as 800 ma at full throttle. At this draw the voltage on a smaller pack will fall quite a bit after a couple of flights.
Where did you obtain that information? Try 400 mAh/hr for a single and 800 for a twin. On a big day it might jump 100 mAh. The people that helped design the ignition suggest an 800 mAh battery as minimum for a single. Any 1,000 mAh 4.8v battery would do quite well for a 50 single.
#4657
I read 800mah at wot also. Here is what RCexl says. They say 650mah at 8000rpm.
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...structions.pdf
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...structions.pdf
#4658
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From: ISTANBUL, TURKEY
I recently tested the DL50 ignition current draw at its maximum possible rpm. Max RPM (over 10000) 6 volts: 650mAh.
As TOM said, it would draw a maximum of around 400-450mAh on a running DL50.
As TOM said, it would draw a maximum of around 400-450mAh on a running DL50.
#4659

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I think you guys mean "ma" not "mAH". The "ma" is small unit of current flow. The "mah" is a small unit of battery capacity.
Edit: Using their 650 ma number, you could fly for two hours on a 1300 mah battery (650ma x 2 hr). Using TOM's number which is probably more realistic since we don't fly at 10000 RPM all the time...or at all for that matter, 400-450 ma x 2 hr is 800-900 mah. So that's why a 1000 mah battery is plenty on a single. I have a 1500 mah NiMh and it's way way more than I need but it only weighs 3.4 ounces. No big deal.
Edit: Using their 650 ma number, you could fly for two hours on a 1300 mah battery (650ma x 2 hr). Using TOM's number which is probably more realistic since we don't fly at 10000 RPM all the time...or at all for that matter, 400-450 ma x 2 hr is 800-900 mah. So that's why a 1000 mah battery is plenty on a single. I have a 1500 mah NiMh and it's way way more than I need but it only weighs 3.4 ounces. No big deal.
#4660
You just wrote in a paragraph what I did in one sentence. Mah, Milli amp Hour, is Ma, Milli amps, with a unit of time, hours. The only way we measure load is with a unit of time. With out the unit of time you wouldn't know what size battery to run. So when I said 650mah draw I thought everyone new we were talking about how long it would last on any given battery pack. Sorry if I skipped a step. Next time I'll get out my graphing calculator and make you a picture. W.T.F!!!!!!!!!!
#4661
Gentlemen,
Your 1000, 1300, or 1500mah batteries will go much farther than you think on your ignition. The RcExl ignition draws the 450ma at 9000 RPM. Our max is well below that and who flies at WOT all the time. I've run a DL50 on a test stand with a 1400mah NiCad for over 4 hrs continuos, no stops. It would have kept going but it ran out of fuel. RcExl ignitions will also run well at well under 4.8 volts.
Your 1000, 1300, or 1500mah batteries will go much farther than you think on your ignition. The RcExl ignition draws the 450ma at 9000 RPM. Our max is well below that and who flies at WOT all the time. I've run a DL50 on a test stand with a 1400mah NiCad for over 4 hrs continuos, no stops. It would have kept going but it ran out of fuel. RcExl ignitions will also run well at well under 4.8 volts.
#4662
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From: Miami beach, FL
I always run at least 3 amps on the ignition and a redundant 5 amps on the Rx for my 50cc gassers. And to make sure my mufflers don't come off, I use a gasket, some silicon and red thread locker on the bolts, and I top it off with some J&B
#4664

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ORIGINAL: paul5992
You just wrote in a paragraph what I did in one sentence. Mah, Milli amp Hour, is Ma, Milli amps, with a unit of time, hours. The only way we measure load is with a unit of time. With out the unit of time you wouldn't know what size battery to run. So when I said 650mah draw I thought everyone new we were talking about how long it would last on any given battery pack. Sorry if I skipped a step. Next time I'll get out my graphing calculator and make you a picture. W.T.F!!!!!!!!!!
You just wrote in a paragraph what I did in one sentence. Mah, Milli amp Hour, is Ma, Milli amps, with a unit of time, hours. The only way we measure load is with a unit of time. With out the unit of time you wouldn't know what size battery to run. So when I said 650mah draw I thought everyone new we were talking about how long it would last on any given battery pack. Sorry if I skipped a step. Next time I'll get out my graphing calculator and make you a picture. W.T.F!!!!!!!!!!
#4665
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Heat and wasted energy. The ignition only requires 4.8v. Anything beyond that is shed in heat, which would not be present at the lower voltage.
As for battery duration, some of us have been doing gas for a great many years and learned by doing, not by reading what someone else said to someone, who told it to someone else. Jody is right on about how long an ignition can run on "X" size battery. Most of the newbies have about 4 times more battery, and weight, and cost, than they need to run the ignition. An 800 mAh battery can usually get in a full days flying on a single for most people.
As for battery duration, some of us have been doing gas for a great many years and learned by doing, not by reading what someone else said to someone, who told it to someone else. Jody is right on about how long an ignition can run on "X" size battery. Most of the newbies have about 4 times more battery, and weight, and cost, than they need to run the ignition. An 800 mAh battery can usually get in a full days flying on a single for most people.
#4666

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So if you ran a prop that was too light of load (like a 20" ) , how does this effect the engine? I am thinking thinking that the high RPM gets you out of the propper timing with the ignition. Is this correct?
To confess, I have run a smaller than optimum prop and when flying, the engine seemed to go rich. Thoughts?
To confess, I have run a smaller than optimum prop and when flying, the engine seemed to go rich. Thoughts?
#4668
You know what makes me mad about forums? Its the constant little details. About little things. Pic. Pic, Pic.
"I know this has worked once."
Or this is what I think
"I heard from my buddy."
It would be great if we could just stick to the facts and not spout off things we heard. Or things that we feel are true.
If you read it. Post your findings to back it up but please don't try to convince us of your stupidity.
"I know this has worked once."
Or this is what I think
"I heard from my buddy."
It would be great if we could just stick to the facts and not spout off things we heard. Or things that we feel are true.
If you read it. Post your findings to back it up but please don't try to convince us of your stupidity.
#4669

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The problem was I broke my 22-10 and I wanted to keep flying. So I tried the smaller prop. I was just interested what the symptoms of too light of a load would cause. This engine is installed in a Scale aircraft and I really do not care about squeezing every last ounce of performance from the engine. So I gave it a try.
#4670

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ORIGINAL: paul5992
You know what makes me mad about forums? Its the constant little details. About little things. Pic. Pic, Pic.
"I know this has worked once."
Or this is what I think
"I heard from my buddy."
It would be great if we could just stick to the facts and not spout off things we heard. Or things that we feel are true.
If you read it. Post your findings to back it up but please don't try to convince us of your stupidity.
You know what makes me mad about forums? Its the constant little details. About little things. Pic. Pic, Pic.
"I know this has worked once."
Or this is what I think
"I heard from my buddy."
It would be great if we could just stick to the facts and not spout off things we heard. Or things that we feel are true.
If you read it. Post your findings to back it up but please don't try to convince us of your stupidity.
The only time I get into irritating threads is generally when they have something to do with aerobatics. I guess these pilots are just a little too "high brow" for the commoners. I doubt that will ever change.
The thing is with engines, we all use them regardless of the application. It is not difficult to spot poor information. Just roll with it.
#4671

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From: Left Coast ,
CA
ORIGINAL: vertical grimmace
I am thinking thinking that the high RPM gets you out of the propper timing with the ignition. Is this correct?
I am thinking thinking that the high RPM gets you out of the propper timing with the ignition. Is this correct?

#4672
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From: Lahore, PAKISTAN
I was previously using a 1200 maH, 4.8 v NimH pack and used a 0.5 maH load to check the battery before each flight. Before the 1st flight the pack would display 5.2 v on load and after two flights it would run down to 4.8 v which I think is the minimum recomended voltage. Later I ran a test the with engine running and I got a 800 mA current flow at full throttle. So to be on the safe side I began using a 2200 maH Lipo with the regulator set at 5 v. I did test the NimH pack on B6 multipurpose charger/disharger it displayed a 1100 maH discharge which I guess is ok, however after 15 min of discharge at 800 mA the voltage dropped to 4.8 v. I figure the weight penalty wasnt that much. The test was run last year in summer, temperatures are normally 110 F it might have something to do with the higher current drain. As far as the engines are concerned all DL 50s are running strong at our club.
#4673
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From: ISTANBUL, TURKEY
RCexcl ignition modules can run without problem on voltages down to 3,2V. I have not tested any lower than that.
Ive got a couple of planes with RCexcl modules running with single cell LiPo and have had no problems.
Current drain goes up with higher voltage.
If the input voltage is 6V, the current drain is about 400-450mA average.
If its 3.7V, the peak current drain goes down to 280-320mA on average.
Thats why I use 1750mAh capacity LiPo with a regulator set at 5V output rather than 6V outout or 6V NiMH pack.
I always go with LiPos as I feel LiPos are easier to charge at the field and wont drain themselves.
Higher current drain may indicate high resistivity with on/off switch and/or power connectors.
Ive got a couple of planes with RCexcl modules running with single cell LiPo and have had no problems.
Current drain goes up with higher voltage.
If the input voltage is 6V, the current drain is about 400-450mA average.
If its 3.7V, the peak current drain goes down to 280-320mA on average.
Thats why I use 1750mAh capacity LiPo with a regulator set at 5V output rather than 6V outout or 6V NiMH pack.
I always go with LiPos as I feel LiPos are easier to charge at the field and wont drain themselves.
Higher current drain may indicate high resistivity with on/off switch and/or power connectors.
#4674
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From: Lahore, PAKISTAN
Thanks for the info will keep that in mind and check for any problems with wiring, by the way correction on last posting load applied on load tester was 500 mA not 0.5maH.
#4675
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From: Miami beach, FL
I've monitored the charge for some time the 2S 1100mah A123 ignition battery takes and it averages at 9.25ma per minute flight. So my DL50 consumes 550mah. This is at 6.6 volts w/ a 1N5001 rectifying diode that brings the voltage down to about 5.8 volts.


