DL-50 engine
09-07-2009 | 12:56 AM
#5526
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From: mojave desert,
CA
RE: DL-50 engine
yup,,remember those spark plug cleaners in auto shop,, we would never buy spark plugs ,,,we would blast them blow em out, then file that electrde flat ,gap,em,, and good as new,,im sure some place like harbor freight has them,maybe ebay...
09-07-2009 | 01:31 AM
#5527
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From: Prior Lake,
MN
RE: DL-50 engine
mstam, TOM, jedijody...Thanks again for your help. I opened my low speed needle, and the DL has good throttle response, holds idle speed well when throttle is chopped, and is running well in the air.
Greg
Greg
09-07-2009 | 07:29 AM
#5529
Senior Member
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: mstam1971
This is the spark plug of my DL after 10+ gallons Amsoil Saber 80:1
This is the spark plug of my DL after 10+ gallons Amsoil Saber 80:1
09-07-2009 | 11:42 AM
#5530
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From: Bishop, TX
RE: DL-50 engine
I guess, how much is the equipment and time worth to try to save 4.00 plugs? To me I would rather pitch them out. Plus when new they were clean so something went wrong, either fouled or broken.
I at first thought you guys were joking about blasting sparkplugs I am sorry but I see it as a waste of time for me. Maybe others have the time and bead blaster to clean em up again.
I at first thought you guys were joking about blasting sparkplugs I am sorry but I see it as a waste of time for me. Maybe others have the time and bead blaster to clean em up again.
09-07-2009 | 12:33 PM
#5531
RE: DL-50 engine
It only takes about 5 minutes to clean a plug and you don't need a bead blaster. I just want to see what is going on with these plugs that "don't work". I have 5 DLs flying, all have factory plugs and they all work great, 8 plugs total. Almost 50% of them are well over a year old, not to mention I run alot of new engines and replace several plugs a week in engines I service, I've yet to find one that doesn't work out of the box, (or bag). I did have one once that was missing the crush washer though.[sm=50_50.gif] Please send me your new, non working DL plugs![sm=teeth_smile.gif]
09-07-2009 | 12:40 PM
#5532
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: DL-50 engine
Blasting a plug to clean it is an old concept that worked rather well during the time is was most used, the 60's through 80's. Your comments about the cost of the equipment needed to clean a plug are most sage. In the vast majority of cases it's not worth the effort. Those that have a large number of engines or a shop where such a quantity is in place is where one would usually find such tools. Typically those having one of the old plug cleaners would be "old school" in outlook or involved in racing.
For most, dipping in carb cleaner, use of a a brass brush, followed up with a brake cleaner rinse and a blast of compressed air would suffice. After that proper tuning would clean the rest during extended run times. With all the plugs I've handled, I have yet to see one become "worn out" in less than 100 hours or so. Even those would be usable for longer once the electrode was dressed and adjusted. Typically they are broken before they are worn. Generally that was done by banging the electrode on a hard surface to adjust the electrode. The ceramic develops micro cracks when adjusted that way, causing the plug to short out to the hex base.
For most, dipping in carb cleaner, use of a a brass brush, followed up with a brake cleaner rinse and a blast of compressed air would suffice. After that proper tuning would clean the rest during extended run times. With all the plugs I've handled, I have yet to see one become "worn out" in less than 100 hours or so. Even those would be usable for longer once the electrode was dressed and adjusted. Typically they are broken before they are worn. Generally that was done by banging the electrode on a hard surface to adjust the electrode. The ceramic develops micro cracks when adjusted that way, causing the plug to short out to the hex base.
09-07-2009 | 02:13 PM
#5533
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From: Winston Salem,
NC
RE: DL-50 engine
Imagine 3000'ft in an Cessna 172 and you start to have engine problems, So you call your ground machnic and you ask him what did you do to my engine yesterday, Oh a Just cleand the spark plugs by hand and bead blasted them you should be fine @2000'ft or below, ?
09-07-2009 | 02:47 PM
#5534
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From: Port Allen,
LA
RE: DL-50 engine
For what it is worth i have been going back and forth from the stock DL plug to the NGK approx. every 14 flights and i can`t see a diff. YET! But i am still, and will , keep trying so i can find it. From reading here i have it in my mind that the NGK is better so i will see.
09-07-2009 | 03:00 PM
#5535
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From: Sarasoa, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
I agree, the key to clean plugs is using 2 cyle oil that does not create fowling carbon on the plugs when it burns and using high quaility gas that burns completely. Remember all of the adatives in gas are designed for cars for premature detination, ping, spark rattle or dieseling of the engine.
The trace element, or gasoline smell you get in your clothes, hand, van and workshop that you hate, is so you can know that it is gas or so you have a gasoline leak. Try pure white gas or coleman lantern fluid and you plug fowling problems will just go away.
Here is a handy tip that really works I read in Field and Stream magazine over 20 years ago that was designed to get that "Fish Smell" off your hands after cleaing fish works for getting that gasoline smell off your hands as well: Wet your hands, us liquind soap and rub it in really good. Now, wipe the soap off your hands directly onto paper towles. Now go back and wash your hands using the same soap and rise with water again. Walaaa, the smell is gone!
George Jenkins, Troy Built Models.
The trace element, or gasoline smell you get in your clothes, hand, van and workshop that you hate, is so you can know that it is gas or so you have a gasoline leak. Try pure white gas or coleman lantern fluid and you plug fowling problems will just go away.
Here is a handy tip that really works I read in Field and Stream magazine over 20 years ago that was designed to get that "Fish Smell" off your hands after cleaing fish works for getting that gasoline smell off your hands as well: Wet your hands, us liquind soap and rub it in really good. Now, wipe the soap off your hands directly onto paper towles. Now go back and wash your hands using the same soap and rise with water again. Walaaa, the smell is gone!
George Jenkins, Troy Built Models.
09-07-2009 | 03:31 PM
#5536
RE: DL-50 engine
Wet your hands, us liquind soap and rub it in really good. Now, wipe the soap off your hands directly onto paper towles. Now go back and wash your hands using the same soap and rise with water again. Walaaa, the smell is gone!
09-07-2009 | 09:13 PM
#5537
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From: Miami beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: pe reivers
The ignition seems a little too advanced. Try to retard slightly until the soot on the plug electrode climbs right up to the tip.
The ignition seems a little too advanced. Try to retard slightly until the soot on the plug electrode climbs right up to the tip.
09-07-2009 | 09:22 PM
#5538
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: DL-50 engine
If the ignition is set at 28-30 btdc, do not retard the ignition. Your engine performs best when spark timing works in conjunction with port timing. The gas octane has no effect here. The higher octane delays detonation, but only effectively in high compression engines. Trust that you do not have a high compression engine.
09-07-2009 | 09:30 PM
#5539
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From: Miami beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man
If the ignition is set at 28-30 btdc, do not retard the ignition. Your engine performs best when spark timing works in conjunction with port timing. The gas octane has no effect here. The higher octane delays detonation, but only effectively in high compression engines. Trust that you do not have a high compression engine.
If the ignition is set at 28-30 btdc, do not retard the ignition. Your engine performs best when spark timing works in conjunction with port timing. The gas octane has no effect here. The higher octane delays detonation, but only effectively in high compression engines. Trust that you do not have a high compression engine.
09-08-2009 | 05:39 PM
#5540
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man
Blasting a plug to clean it is an old concept that worked rather well during the time is was most used, the 60's through 80's. Your comments about the cost of the equipment needed to clean a plug are most sage. In the vast majority of cases it's not worth the effort. Those that have a large number of engines or a shop where such a quantity is in place is where one would usually find such tools. Typically those having one of the old plug cleaners would be ''old school'' in outlook or involved in racing.
For most, dipping in carb cleaner, use of a a brass brush, followed up with a brake cleaner rinse and a blast of compressed air would suffice. After that proper tuning would clean the rest during extended run times. With all the plugs I've handled, I have yet to see one become ''worn out'' in less than 100 hours or so. Even those would be usable for longer once the electrode was dressed and adjusted. Typically they are broken before they are worn. Generally that was done by banging the electrode on a hard surface to adjust the electrode. The ceramic develops micro cracks when adjusted that way, causing the plug to short out to the hex base.
Blasting a plug to clean it is an old concept that worked rather well during the time is was most used, the 60's through 80's. Your comments about the cost of the equipment needed to clean a plug are most sage. In the vast majority of cases it's not worth the effort. Those that have a large number of engines or a shop where such a quantity is in place is where one would usually find such tools. Typically those having one of the old plug cleaners would be ''old school'' in outlook or involved in racing.
For most, dipping in carb cleaner, use of a a brass brush, followed up with a brake cleaner rinse and a blast of compressed air would suffice. After that proper tuning would clean the rest during extended run times. With all the plugs I've handled, I have yet to see one become ''worn out'' in less than 100 hours or so. Even those would be usable for longer once the electrode was dressed and adjusted. Typically they are broken before they are worn. Generally that was done by banging the electrode on a hard surface to adjust the electrode. The ceramic develops micro cracks when adjusted that way, causing the plug to short out to the hex base.
09-08-2009 | 07:16 PM
#5541
Senior Member
RE: DL-50 engine
Jody....I plan on reusing the stock plug. . Been breaking in the DL-55, have 1/2 gal through it so far. Can't believe how easy it starts. Plan on another couple of runs tomorrow, and swap out the stock plug and see what happens. Will post here. After I'm done with the stock plug I'll send it to you for evaluation. Not interested it getting it back. Mike
09-09-2009 | 01:16 AM
#5543
RE: DL-50 engine
I only want plugs that don't work, if you try the plug again and it works keep it for future use and rest assured the prior problem was not the plug.
09-09-2009 | 09:48 AM
#5545
Senior Member
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RE: DL-50 engine
In the early DL days there was an occasional issue with the "stock" plug fitting the threads in the head correctly. At times they would be a somewhat loose fit and not tighten securely, permitting them to fall out of the head. That issue was corrected relatively quickly and has not been applicable for at least a year..
09-09-2009 | 10:50 AM
#5546
RE: DL-50 engine
The early 55s and 111s also had that problem along with the pitted exhaust port. The threads were just cut too big and a few planes were lost when the plug blew out in a low altitude hover, the plug blew out of mine at about 5 gallons doing waterfalls. I guess there's a positive side to not having big enough cajones to tap the grass with your rudder or wing tips or rolling down the runway at 5 MPH, 5 feet off the deck, I easily made the dead stick landing while curiously watching my prop freely windmill coasting in. A Heli-Coil fixes the problem permanently and is pretty easy to install.
Plugs that I really would like to see are the ones where they are described as being melted off. I'm not trying to get people to send me their new plugs so I can put them in stock for sale, only used and suspect samples.
P.S. Joe, do not resist, you will be assimilated.
Plugs that I really would like to see are the ones where they are described as being melted off. I'm not trying to get people to send me their new plugs so I can put them in stock for sale, only used and suspect samples.
P.S. Joe, do not resist, you will be assimilated.
09-09-2009 | 03:36 PM
#5550
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From: Miami beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: JoeAirPort
Yeah I pan caked it into some long grass last weekend. [
] Luckily it was all minor and is all fixed now. Extreme Flight makes tough planes. You wouldn't believe how straight I got that gear (I didn't believe it myself).
Yeah I pan caked it into some long grass last weekend. [
] Luckily it was all minor and is all fixed now. Extreme Flight makes tough planes. You wouldn't believe how straight I got that gear (I didn't believe it myself).
Amazing it didn't torn the fuse in pieces.
