Check it out on our web site at: www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/DL55ENGINE.html  and take advantage of the $1 off per CC to get if for less than anyone else selling the DL-55.  We have parts and repair services too.
George jenkins, Troy Built Models.

How are the customer experiences with the "WRC Wike R/C Products IBEF Ignition Battery Eliminating Filter" so far? Would be nice with a Wolverine switch and 2 2S1P A123 batteries, good for 8 flights.

Are you guys gonna stock the Wolverine switch with 2 Deans in, one out? Saves me ordering directly from Fromeco.

We will look into it.  We carry allot of their stuff now.  I have forwarded it on to Gene Payson our President.  Thanks for the update.
George Jenkins, Troy Built Models

Guys I would like to know if the dl50 will decently power a 18lb plane. I ask because I have a DL 50 on a GP 330S and it is just to small and light. But it is around 15lbs and I 3D fly. If I get a true 30 percent that is in the 17 to 18 lb range is the DL going to still pull it straight up???

Without a doubt!

NP
All Extreme Flight 30% planes weigh in from 17-1/2lbs, about 18lbs with tuned pipe over stock muffler setup. Either combo flies fine.

No question. Especially with the stock exhaust. The two planes in the pic are 88.5" wing span. The Yak is 17#, 13 oz, The Extra 17# 10 oz. The power is incredible. The best I have had on any plane. I think even 19 pounds would be do-able but no more than that for fast verticals and strong hover pull outs. Even on windy days the DL-50 has enough to get me away from the ground in close calls. Technically the Extra is a DLE-55 but I can't tell the difference in power.

JoeAirPort.......Need a little help. I purchased a new DL55 recently, I have it mounted in my airframe, and it's ready to go. Fueled it with 97% octane with a 32:1 mix of Penzoil Air Cooled. I haven't touched the factory setting for High & Low speed, however a friend of my dialed the idle speed needle all the way out to where it isn't touching the the idle arm. I've tried to get the engine started by slowly turning in the idle speed needle about 1/4 turn at a time. It seems when the idle speed needle is about 2-1/2 turns in the engine will fire but not run. A little more turn in and it wants to run for about 1-2 seconds, then quits and it takes about 4-6 flips of the prop to get it to fire. I've got good spark with a 4.8v 1800 mHa NiMH fully charged battery. I have the throttle linkage set to where the throttle on the Tx is fully retarded and there is no tension on the carb. throttle arm. I can move the throttle arm toward to open position by either turning in the idle screw or opening the throttle on the Tx. When I get the engine to momentarily run I've tried advancing the throttle slightly, only to kill the engine, then it seems like it floods, not wanting to start at all. I'm baffled, I've heard everyone say it's a breeze to get these baby's started. Any suggestions? Mike
ps: I have the stock plug in and the gap set at .020. I'm trying to locate a NGKCM-6 plug.

I'm not Joe but I have a DLE 55. I'm a bit confused over the idle speed screw being screwed out so it does not touch the arm. Just remove that screw completely. Set both high and low speed needles to about 1.5 turns out. Close the choke and open the throttle completely. Flip until it fires. Then open the choke, and set your throttle to just above idle. It sounds like your idle is set too low. That's what happened to my DLE 30 the other day. Then flip and it should start after a few flicks.
Hope that helps.
Sam

ACF, first change the fuel to unleaded regular, not premium. Stick with the Pennzoil 32:1 for break in. Make sure the and low needles are where they are suppose to be. Make sure teh plug isn't flooded, if the motor is inverted. Close the choke and flip, 'till she pops. Open the choke an flip until she starts running. Normally these motors fire at the second or third flip after the choke comes off. If not you may want to check the timing of the ignition. I don't suspect the carb being dirty ona new engine, but you never know. If the motor is mounted inverted there is a chance of flooding the plug. So, check regularely, if you don't get a pop.

In RC we don't use that idle speed screw. I always screw it out so it's completely away from the throttle arm. That's what your buddy did and it was smart of him. You can just take it out but I leave it there backed way out (and one of mine fell out in flight, no loss). You set the idle speed with your transmitter throttle trim.

I would set those needles to known starting values as someone advised. Otherwise you could be fighting some totally bogus settings (one of mine shipped 1 and 1 on both needles). Then tune from there (right away !!!! don't wait !!!). Once you have eliminated wacked out needle settings, and you still have problems, you can move onto the next thing in the chain of troubleshooting.

Also keep in mind that most carborators are set a the factory and you don't need to start twisting them like you would a glow engine.  Just a little at a time is all you need to move them, maybe 1/32" of a inch at a time.  Remember to that Gas engines need a break in period and get better after 2 or more gallons of gas has been run in them.  Use a good quality 2 cycle oil, not chain saw oil but something like racing oil for a motorcycle or outboard engine would use.
One it is broken in, go to AMSOIL and your engine will last for ever. I have a 12 year old G-62 that still runs great.
George Jenkins, Troy Built Models.

sounds like he needs to remove the plug,,,blow it off real good,,,spin the engine to make sre its cleared out,,,reinstall the plug close both needles ,,open both 1 1/2 turns,,,,now youre ready to try to start,,,open the carb so the butterfly is barely cracked,,,,choke and turn on ign,,,flip until it fires and quits,,,ok now its slightly flooded and the carb is full of gas,,,open the choke and be careful start flipping prop usually by the 3rd or 4th flip it should start,,treat it like it will start on every flip so you dont loose fingers,,if this dosent work you may have allowed debris into the carb,,theres a very fine screen that easily cloggs its under the plate with the one screw,,,look at the you tube videos where they start gassers,,also im sure there are articles on how to start a gas 2 stroke in model magazines and most likely in rcu ,,once youve got it started let it warm up,,if it idles ok then advance to full power,if it sags you may have to slightly adjust the low speed then if it seems too rick or lean at high speed addust the high speed ,just dont run it rich like a glow engine,and not too lean because as the prop unloads in the air ,it will need the small ,amount of extra fuel,,,if all else fails ,you may have another issue.

Ladies and Gentlemen Place your bets.

My bet for him is.. Bad Plug!

Ancient,
Dont look to complicate things by trying too hard. My guess is solution is simple, try to swap the plug ( I realize you dont want to hear that) but first check ign batt, make sure your not low on voltage too.

Mine went south yesterday after the 5th tank of fuel. flip fire die, flip fire die, etc etc. Swapped to ngk.. fired right up and ran great as always.

i aint bettin on nothing i can see,,i m like thomas the doubter

George,

How can the carb be set when if you switch from a 22x8 to a 23X8 you need to turn the needles up to a 1/2 turn for it to run right let alone different altitudes?

If you replaced the plug with a new one be sure you check the gap. .020

I work on DLs and others all day, everyday. I can tell you from experience that on any new engine that was not run at the factory (DLs for instance) you can save your shoulder a bunch of wear by lightly seating the needles then opening them up 1-1/2 turns each then start the engine, let it warm up and adjust the high speed to the rich side of peak and low for best leanest transition from the first tank. If you have a helper it's easy to do with the engine running (be careful) and you can see and hear how the adjustments effect the way the engine runs.

DLs typicaly start well with factory settings but once in while one will miss the needle setting procedure and will be way off. No engine, I don't care who built it, comes with the needles set correctly for your application, location, fuel/oil mix, and load. Learn how to adjust your carb or find a friend that can help you. I've talked many through the process, it's easy and only takes a few minutes.

As for oil, where do you think these engine designs originated anyway. Chainsaws and weed whackers, quality saw makers label some of the best 2 stroke oil on the planet. Lots of other oils work well but from what I've seen Amsoil isn't one of them. If you use it and only put 5 or 10 gallons through your engine a year you will likely not have any problems but start burning 30 or 40 gallons a year in your engines and I guarantee you will be switching oil after the first couple years.

Version 1 DL w/7 gallons of klotz 50to1 and slimline pitts ,xoar 22/8, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4zl7I5KopQ

Jedijody

with your experiance could you say that Pennzoil 2 cycle aircooled engine oil would be one of the better oils to use?

joe what oil do you use

As far as mineral based oil goes it's one of the best but if you like to run lean and mean and generate some heat with a lot of 3D, high throttle low air flow manuevers and big props, (6500-7000 RPM) a good synthetic will out perform the Penzoil. Heat is the factor.

Jody is dead on! Stihl Ultra is a great synthetic oil and Pennzoil is a great mineral.

I use Pennzoil air cooled 32:1. The engine seems to love it but I do lots of extended harrier flying inches from the ground, hovering, waterfalls and all sorts of other low and slow stuff. I don't always let my engine cool down like I probably should. I might go to Stihl Ultra next. I can get it during lunch since there's a big Stihl dealer just a couple of blocks down the road from work.

I took apart a 77cc stihl saw at work the other day w/40 hours of ultra on it,it looked excellent to say the least,i asked the coustomer about it,he loves it,said they have a winter blend too.