The point of my post about looking in the "mailed paperback catalog" was to point out the statement about these engines going through DL USA. The online catalog does not make any reference to this. Sometimes the internet isn't the end all conglomerate of information. Besides, I like to memorize part numbers and pricing for my friends at the field.

,i still think he needs to find the air leak,,, apparently this poster didnt read the cause of the question...

I agree. I haven't seen an engine yet working correctly that would not shut down using the throttle plate as it was equipped on the carb. I see a whole lot of engines and have never experienced a need to solder the hole in a choke plate shut. If that's what's needed to shut down the engine there's another problem that is the true source.

tired old man i coquer with you

I coquer (concurr) with you too. LOL

thks graig

Just richen it up,it will wash out the brazing on the throttle plate that comes loose and cover the air leak.

huh???????

I just got 4 from here and they arrived in the mail today. These guys are fast, got em in about 3 days across country. These are in a Honda box but say NGK CM-6 on the plugs. It was just over $14 shipped. Cool leads guys! Jon

I would feel much safer putting an optical kill switch on a gas motor to shut it down instead. This will prevent accidents both on the ground and in the air should the need arise to kill the motor quickly. I would of thought TBM would have suggested this.

regardless,of the safety factor,,,which is very important,,,theres still a reason that ,he cant shut it down,via the choke,or throttle ,and that needs to be corrected,and yes,the kill switch will definitely add to making things safe,sometimes in the confusion of an emergency ,its good to have several ways to shut down,but the description of the problem seems typical ,of an air leak,and not the need for a kill switch.

Attached the exhaust of my DL50 after 250+ flights. No signs of any leakage w/ stock gasket. Only used some heat-resistant loctite.

If you had seen the damage that a 22 inch prop does when it makes contact with people, you would not hessitate to fit a kill switch, when running, these engines should be treated like a loaded gun. I would love the idiots who taxi through the pit area with a gasser to see what can happen ! In my opinion, an opto kill is essential, certainly not an option.

thats why i did not diminish the importance of safety,,,but everything is getting out of context here,,the young man was wondering why his engine wont shut down,but just trimming down ,like it used to,,,ps is anyone isnt fully aware of the fact ,you could get killed,or badly mangled,probably shouldnt be operating,a gasser or glow or electric,,but thats only my opinion,,so tes,,,every possible precaution should be used,but that wasnt how this subject got started,and im guilty of weighing ,in on a paragraph,and not reading the whole subject ,so i agree with your statement,but only in context.

,excuse my typing,,cant find my glasses,,,ps servo operated kill switches are good too.

Servo operated kill switches are NOT good. If the receiver goes down or the servo (linkage) got stuck, an optical switch is essential.

Definitely! We had a member at our field almost put his 33% plane in my lap while taxiing to the pit area. He had a servo operated kill switch which had the whole tray vibrate loose in flight. Didn't realize it until he was ready to shut her down and couldn't. Very scary moment indeed!

Oh, and make sure u replace your stock plugs with the CM-6. I had one in my DL-100 disintegrate in one of the cylinders. The motor was running on one cylinder and could still hover my 33% Yak 55. I can't believe it was still running in the condition I found the plug. If this had happened in my DL-50, I most certainly would of had a dead-stick. Jodi, here it comes.

That sounds familiar....

Hey guys make sure to replace your stock plug with a cm-6

Joe, you probably have nightmares about those plugs don't you? [:-]

No actually I don't. Never used them never will. My intent as always is to help people. [8D]

The shielding of the spark plug cable is all frayed near the plug cap. Is the cable a replaceable part or do I need to order a new CDI?

You can shorten the lead and replace the cap, simple job, if your careful you could remove the existing cap trim back the plug wire and refit with new heat shrink.

If you need a new cap, Im pretty sure ValleyView would have them, made by RCEXL.

However the spark lead itself is not replaceable. (some people repair the braiding...by overlaying new braiding and soldering in place...but not sure how good that works)

Cheers

Scott

Placing inexpensive cable wrapping over your plug wires is a way to prevent this from happening. It also comes in different colors to dress up your motor.