DL-50 engine
09-03-2009 | 10:37 PM
#5451
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From: Bishop, TX
RE: DL-50 engine
Around here we break in with a decent quality reg oil. Lawnboy ashless, penzoil really it seems any decent oil would work well. We switch after break in to BelRay. We like it and never had issues. Alot of 3d flying slow heat is the enemy.
I realize BelRay is older oil but its very good too.
I realize BelRay is older oil but its very good too.
09-04-2009 | 12:11 AM
#5452
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: jedijody
I work on DLs and others all day, everyday. I can tell you from experience that on any new engine that was not run at the factory (DLs for instance) you can save your shoulder a bunch of wear by lightly seating the needles then opening them up 1-1/2 turns each then start the engine, let it warm up and adjust the high speed to the rich side of peak and low for best leanest transition from the first tank. If you have a helper it's easy to do with the engine running (be careful) and you can see and hear how the adjustments effect the way the engine runs.
DLs typicaly start well with factory settings but once in while one will miss the needle setting procedure and will be way off. No engine, I don't care who built it, comes with the needles set correctly for your application, location, fuel/oil mix, and load. Learn how to adjust your carb or find a friend that can help you. I've talked many through the process, it's easy and only takes a few minutes.
As for oil, where do you think these engine designs originated anyway. Chainsaws and weed whackers, quality saw makers label some of the best 2 stroke oil on the planet. Lots of other oils work well but from what I've seen Amsoil isn't one of them. If you use it and only put 5 or 10 gallons through your engine a year you will likely not have any problems but start burning 30 or 40 gallons a year in your engines and I guarantee you will be switching oil after the first couple years.
I work on DLs and others all day, everyday. I can tell you from experience that on any new engine that was not run at the factory (DLs for instance) you can save your shoulder a bunch of wear by lightly seating the needles then opening them up 1-1/2 turns each then start the engine, let it warm up and adjust the high speed to the rich side of peak and low for best leanest transition from the first tank. If you have a helper it's easy to do with the engine running (be careful) and you can see and hear how the adjustments effect the way the engine runs.
DLs typicaly start well with factory settings but once in while one will miss the needle setting procedure and will be way off. No engine, I don't care who built it, comes with the needles set correctly for your application, location, fuel/oil mix, and load. Learn how to adjust your carb or find a friend that can help you. I've talked many through the process, it's easy and only takes a few minutes.
As for oil, where do you think these engine designs originated anyway. Chainsaws and weed whackers, quality saw makers label some of the best 2 stroke oil on the planet. Lots of other oils work well but from what I've seen Amsoil isn't one of them. If you use it and only put 5 or 10 gallons through your engine a year you will likely not have any problems but start burning 30 or 40 gallons a year in your engines and I guarantee you will be switching oil after the first couple years.
09-04-2009 | 12:58 AM
#5454
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
I'm using Mobil 2T I bought a few years back. It seems fine. I was running it at 32:1 for a gallon and just switched to 50:1. The engine would miss on occasionally with the higher oil content. I'm still adjusting the engine since I installed the KS can and header. It stumbles a little bit and surges in the mid range. Too rich?
09-04-2009 | 06:32 AM
#5456
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From: Sarasoa, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
The point being that you do not have to start changing needle valve settings with the same prop. Once you have it dialed in, set and for get it. Now i agree if you change props or change desity altiture you will have to make all kinds of changes. Prop changes are or should be a part of every trial and error method for every modeler till he finds the perfect combination to fit his plane and the type of flying he is going to do.
Geroge Jenkins, Troy Built Models
Geroge Jenkins, Troy Built Models
09-04-2009 | 06:56 AM
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From: Port Allen,
LA
RE: DL-50 engine
Jodi
I run mc-1 bel-ray at 50-1. I have seen that HR-1 is made for dirt bikes in dusty conditions. It contains additives that clean the engine. But you say you prefer it? I may use it next time. What are your findings based on? Can i run HR-1 at 50-1 also. It calls for diff. ratio`s on both oils. Also, i went back to the stock plug, i see no diff. in power. Findings? Thanks
I run mc-1 bel-ray at 50-1. I have seen that HR-1 is made for dirt bikes in dusty conditions. It contains additives that clean the engine. But you say you prefer it? I may use it next time. What are your findings based on? Can i run HR-1 at 50-1 also. It calls for diff. ratio`s on both oils. Also, i went back to the stock plug, i see no diff. in power. Findings? Thanks
09-04-2009 | 07:19 AM
#5458
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RE: DL-50 engine
I just got through talking to him about this (I'll save you some typing Jody). He uses Stihl Ultra. Read below for my last PM from Jody about mixing Stihl Ultra:
"I run a lot of new or freshly rebuilt engines on my test stand so I that fuel is always 32:1. I've never run more than a couple gallons at 32:1 on a new engine then I go to 50:1. You could run more oil if you wanted but I don't think I would run more than 40:1. "
"I run a lot of new or freshly rebuilt engines on my test stand so I that fuel is always 32:1. I've never run more than a couple gallons at 32:1 on a new engine then I go to 50:1. You could run more oil if you wanted but I don't think I would run more than 40:1. "
09-04-2009 | 08:18 AM
#5459
Senior Member
RE: DL-50 engine
YogoBlue......I've got 2 NGK CM-6 plugs on the way, should have them on Mon. I am running 87 octane ( the 97 oct was a typo) and 32:1 Penzoil Air Cooled. I backed the idle screw completely out. Started slowly advancing the throttle by using the trim button (2.4 Ghz Tx). High Low needles are set at 1-1/2 turns out. Ignition battery is fully charged showing 5.3v. Opened the throttle about 1/2 way with choke closed. 2 flip's and it popped. Open the chock and moved the throttle to where the arm is opened about 1/8" beyond the close point. Flipped it twice and it fired but only will run for 1-2 seconds then quits. Then it takes about 6-8 more flips before it repeats everything all over. Each time I advance the throttle in small increments, 1/16" at a time, getting to run for 3-5 seconds but basically the same result. Pulled the plug several times and it's not excessively wet. I did notice a little fuel leaking out around the base of the plug. Wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads and it seemed to stop the minor leak. I did notice that when the plug is out and have the ignition ON and turn the prop I get spark but it's not what I would call a bright blue/white spark. I'm hoping the plug change will do the trick. If not I'll be back.
09-04-2009 | 08:42 AM
#5460
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: Valve floater
Jodi
I run mc-1 bel-ray at 50-1. I have seen that HR-1 is made for dirt bikes in dusty conditions. It contains additives that clean the engine. But you say you prefer it? I may use it next time. What are your findings based on? Can i run HR-1 at 50-1 also. It calls for diff. ratio`s on both oils. Also, i went back to the stock plug, i see no diff. in power. Findings? Thanks
Jodi
I run mc-1 bel-ray at 50-1. I have seen that HR-1 is made for dirt bikes in dusty conditions. It contains additives that clean the engine. But you say you prefer it? I may use it next time. What are your findings based on? Can i run HR-1 at 50-1 also. It calls for diff. ratio`s on both oils. Also, i went back to the stock plug, i see no diff. in power. Findings? Thanks
09-04-2009 | 08:46 AM
#5461
RE: DL-50 engine
ACF, does your engine seem to want to fire or pop out the exhaust or lightly backfire, if so you may have a bad CDI module, it's not the plug. Do you have a friend with a running DL that you could try his module?
09-04-2009 | 09:01 AM
#5462
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From: Pullman,
WA
RE: DL-50 engine
I would think the fuel leaking out around the plug would indicate that the plug is not fully tightented. There is a "squish washer" that flattens out as the plug is tightened, but by no means do you want to over tighten the plug! Is the plug cap all the way down over the plug? It should push down hard and cover the hex head of the plug.
Just some ideas...
Sam
Just some ideas...
Sam
09-04-2009 | 09:23 AM
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From: Bishop, TX
RE: DL-50 engine
I guarantee its the plug.. Exact same issue I had.
I had oil leaks around mine too. The crush washer is not the issue as mine was tight. Its the thread tolerances of the cheapy plug. Once you go NGK the washer is thicker and their thread tolerances are closer making for a better fit. (learned that back in the snowmobiling days) Unfortunately not much sleddin in Corpus.
I had oil leaks around mine too. The crush washer is not the issue as mine was tight. Its the thread tolerances of the cheapy plug. Once you go NGK the washer is thicker and their thread tolerances are closer making for a better fit. (learned that back in the snowmobiling days) Unfortunately not much sleddin in Corpus.
09-04-2009 | 09:29 AM
#5464
Senior Member
RE: DL-50 engine
Jody.... The engine wants to run, no backfiring out the exhaust. It just doesn't run very long. I've had a couple runs that lasted 4-6 seconds. I've not tried to advance the throttle on a couple of 4-6 second runs and also tried to slowly advance the throttle both with the same result, just quits. RE the other comment, yes the crush washer was flattened, I was careful not to over tighten the plug, didn't want to strip it out, and the plug cap is very tight. I have to really push it on until it "pops" onto the end of the plug so I know it's on tight, and the spring is in place. I don't know anyone in my area that might have a DL to check the CID module with. I'm hoping the NGK plug(s) will solve the problem. I'm just going to chill until Mon when they arrive from TBM. I even looked to make sure the clunk is in the bottom of the tank. and that the vent line is clear. By the way I did purchase my DL-55 from Valley View about 6-8 weeks ago. Mike
09-04-2009 | 09:34 AM
#5465
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From: Bishop, TX
RE: DL-50 engine
Ancient,
Check your local auto parts store or small engine places.
This is what mine would do when the plug fouled out. Flip Fire run die all different times sometimes longer, sometimes shorter. If you are seeing spark I am betting the CDI is working fine.
I found a few here in North Mexico after calling around a bit. Usually around here they stock nothing.
Check your local auto parts store or small engine places.
This is what mine would do when the plug fouled out. Flip Fire run die all different times sometimes longer, sometimes shorter. If you are seeing spark I am betting the CDI is working fine.
I found a few here in North Mexico after calling around a bit. Usually around here they stock nothing.
09-04-2009 | 09:41 AM
#5466
Senior Member
RE: DL-50 engine
YogoBlue....I tend you agree with you about the sloppy fit of the threads of the stock plug. My gut is telling me it IS the plug. I was a flight engineer in the U.S.A.F and flew and wrenched on a lot of recip. aircraft so I am fairly familiar with engines. I know 2 strokes are different breed but basically all air-cooled internal combustion engines only need 4 things to run. Air, fuel, lubrication and ignition. The air and fuel are pretty much a no-brainer, the plug however is another matter. If the new NGK CM-6 set at .020 doesn't do the trick........well we'll see on Monday.
To everyone out there....thanks for all the input....this is a great group of folks who go out of their way to help others. Thanks, Mike ACF
To everyone out there....thanks for all the input....this is a great group of folks who go out of their way to help others. Thanks, Mike ACF
09-04-2009 | 09:57 AM
#5467
RE: DL-50 engine
Unless TBM is hand carrying them to you you won't get it on Monday, Labor day. If there is a Honda dealer near you that sells generators, they will have the plug. Honda number is 98052-56471, it's an NGK CM-6 in a Honda box.
09-04-2009 | 11:12 AM
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From: Winston Salem,
NC
RE: DL-50 engine
Im with Jody,
I think the CDI is defective,
It has to do with internal combustion pressure that makes the spark week it will show spark on the out side and it is hard to belive that it does not work when the plug is back in the head that was my experiance I did change the CDI and off I whent,
I had no problem with the stock plug on my DL 50 but I did change it after 3 months of use just to be sure it woud not fail on me at a bad time.
I think the CDI is defective,
It has to do with internal combustion pressure that makes the spark week it will show spark on the out side and it is hard to belive that it does not work when the plug is back in the head that was my experiance I did change the CDI and off I whent,
I had no problem with the stock plug on my DL 50 but I did change it after 3 months of use just to be sure it woud not fail on me at a bad time.
09-04-2009 | 11:45 AM
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From: Bishop, TX
RE: DL-50 engine
BelRay but not HR1 for me. I dont like detergents in my oils. Just like I dont like Conditioner in my shampoo. Defeats purpose
Its personal dude any good oil will work. Amsoil I heard is OK just not in their mix recomendations. I will never run an engine 100:1
I do however like chocolate in my peanut butter!
Its personal dude any good oil will work. Amsoil I heard is OK just not in their mix recomendations. I will never run an engine 100:1
I do however like chocolate in my peanut butter!
09-04-2009 | 12:01 PM
#5473
RE: DL-50 engine
ACF, I wouldn't necessarely count too much on a new plug as there could be an issue with the reed valve. The standard plug is crap but it is usable for a while, at least. If the engine starts and quits after a few seconds, it is, most likely, a problem with the fuel supply. If the carb is O.K., then there is only one other component, that could be the culprid: the reed valve.
09-04-2009 | 01:19 PM
#5475
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: FLPilot
Stihl HP Ultra
Must this oil be consumed within 21 days after mixing, as it degrades to 80% in this time frame? Or, does this pertain to the exhaust emissions?
Stihl HP Ultra
Must this oil be consumed within 21 days after mixing, as it degrades to 80% in this time frame? Or, does this pertain to the exhaust emissions?
