jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

They are some of the best wood ARFs made, well built, light weight, great flyers. I've had several over the years and still have a 50cc Yak and 100cc Extra that I love to fly regularly. Their only draw back is the seeminglynever ending ownership and brand name drama that hascaused a support parts nightmare for many that have needed them, it's supposed to be improving though.

SOLO_48

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Jody i wanted purchased from you,but i wanted to talk to you in the phone about the purchase

jedijody

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253-569-4458

hillbillyexpress

Is there some sort of checklist i should go over before i finally get to fly my first gasser, i will be buying a radio in toledo and then shes ready to go, gp cap 232 27% with a dle55 on the front. i am so excited, this is my firs big plane and i would like any suggestions for pre flight checking. thank you guys, if not for you and this site, im not sure i could've done it.

w8ye

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Do a thorough field check of your radio system with the engine running at all different speeds.

lear31A

My Feedback: (123)

What size batteries for the new DLE55 motor? Is 6volt ok? Also, the ignition has the tachometer lead, I guess i just tie this one up?? Thanks

lear31A

My Feedback: (123)

wrong quote

lear31A

My Feedback: (123)

Mine is DLE55 A7105

Super08

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Do not use a 5 cell 6 volt battery, they put out more than 6 volts and will end up cooking your ignition. Use a 4.8 volt it is more than enough and any more just causes excess heat. Yes just tie up the tach lead.

lear31A

My Feedback: (123)

Thanks alot

Cyberwolf

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Thats is very good advice coming from someone that knows his stuff.
I believe that if you look in the instructions it tell's you not to use over 6 volts for the IGN any 5 cell pack will over charge to more than 6 volts .
Good luck
Richard

lear31A

My Feedback: (123)

Thanks alot guys. The instructions do not mention batteries, it just says, " Too much voltz, not allowed!" haha

FOOPED

My Feedback: (8)

4.8 volt 1500 ma will make a full day of flying without worry. That is if you take turns and let somebody else have the airspace every once in a while. Ha Ha

McChiken

I got one of the original dinosaurs (SD Models) . DLE-55 still running great . Had it stored for 4 months . Took it out and about 12 flips and it was running like a champ .

n57tc

I have run a DL 50 with over 40 gallons (3 years old) and my DA50 (3 years old) with over 30 gallons thru them with the ORIGIONAL factory ignition on A123 with no regulator. Both are still running great. I have a buddy who has replaced two ignitions on one DL55 in less then 15 gallons. (He never protects the spark plug wire with hose).

hooker53

My Feedback: (106)

Does anyone know what you set the paddle on your metering needle under the diaphragm? I'm thinking 1/32 above the carb body but can't remember!

Super08

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It should be flush with the metal of the carb body on each side of it.

hooker53

My Feedback: (106)

Super08, thanks for the info. Is there ever an exception or what happens if it's to high or above the carb body? Thanks again. Roy

Super08

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I am no carb expert, but if it is foo far one way it will cause the carb to be lean. If it is too far the other way it will make the carb richer and if too far will not let the needle valve close causing fuel to run out of the engine even when shut off.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

It also depends of which series of carb. The WT and WJ carbs it is to be set flush with the flat area that surrounds the end of the lever. Other carbs such as the HDA are set differently. The carb on the DL/DLE are WT series.

jedijody

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For the WA, WJ, and WT series carbs there are no exceptions, the end of the lever is to be flush with the surrounding casting. If it is to high it will run rich in the midrange, to low and it will run lean in transition and will be impossible to get a good idle and still be able to transition. Doug is right, if way out to high it will flood constantly and leak fuel even when not running, way to low and there will be no go fast.  If one has a very good understanding of how these carbs work and speaks/listens/feels fluent engine, one can make very small adjustments to the lever height to get an engine to work better in the mid RPM range BUT, all other contributing factors must be checked, verified and or corrected first or you could just be masking or moving a problem to rear it's ugly head somewhere else. Reeds, gaskets, pulse lines/passages, fuel pump parts, filters, pop off pressure, and timing all should be verified and or corrected before attempting to alter the internal carb settings.

hooker53

My Feedback: (106)

Thanks everyone. It's no way around it. I have it setting to high. Cranks good but runs rich on bottem. rough midrange but a good high end. I will play with it and see what happens. Everyone have a Great and happy Easter. Roy

hooker53

My Feedback: (106)

OK Guys. I forgot a photo is worth a thousand words. When you say even with the surrounding body, I take it to be "Even with the area I marked in blue??? thanks all and Happy Easter. Roy

jedijody

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That is correct.

hooker53

My Feedback: (106)

Thanks Jody. Have a good Easter.